See the Real KL
Written: Aug 17 '99 (Updated Aug 17 '99)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Many sides to the city; not as overwhelming as Bangkok
Cons: Avoid sterile / generic tourist areas.
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| tom's Full Review: Malaysia |
Kuala Lumpur ("KL" to those in the know) is a city with three faces -- the Malay, the Chinese, and the Indian. It's worth taking the time to experience each of these three cultures when you visit.
Unlike its regional neighbors -- Thailand, Indonesia, and even China, which have distinct cultures of their own -- Malaysia's culture is a collage of its neighbors' traditions. Malaysia's "Malay" background comes from Indonesia, while the Chinese (30% of the population) and the Indians (15% of the population) bring their own traditions. All of these were mixed under British colonial influence over the past 75 years.
To the Western visitor, then, Malaysia represents a chance to see several distinct cultures at once. You can watch traditional Malay dance, visit a chinese cemetery, or eat Indian fried bread at an outdoor stall (see more on the stalls later). The British influence, meanwhile, packages the experience in an orderly and cleanly country so that it is an extremely pleasant country to visit.
While in Kuala Lumpur, there are a few must-sees. The new Petronas Towers, temporarily the tallest buildings in the world, may be the talk of the town, but try to dig a little deeper when you're there. The real KL emerges when you go behind the facade that is erected around usual tourist traps. For starters, try out Batu Caves. Located about 30 minutes from the city center, these hillside caves are an Indian holy spot well worth the trip. Once a year during the Indian "Thypusam" festival, young Indians put themselves into a trance and pierce their bodies with spears, daggers, hooks, and barbs as they make a pilgrimage to Batu Caves. On any other day of the year, the main attraction of the caves is a giant staircase that leads up the side of the mountain in which the caves are located. On the way, you'll pass holy 5-legged cows, monkeys, and hindu shrines. You'll also have a chance to buy postcards that feature photos from Thypusam. Most importantly, you'll have gotten out of the Westernized city center so that you can see the real Malaysia.
If you insist on staying in KL, it's probably worth a trip to Chinatown and the Train Station. Chinatown is like a Chinatown anywhere -- only a bit more authentic. Find live chickens for sale in the street and shop for an assortment of chinese pots, statues, and herbal medicines.
The central train station, meanwhile, represents the best of colonial grandeur. Located by the river that runs through town, the train station is a sprawling beige building that is framed by a breezeway lined with pillars. It's a beauty to look at, and you can catch a ride to Singapore to Bangkok on the luxurious English trains. You might want to look for a poster or postcards of the train station.
Finally, an off-the-wall suggestion that will really give you a glimpse of Malaysia: go drive through a date palm orchard. Malaysia grew on its tin and palm oil industries. A drive through the miles and miles of dead-straight roads that are lined by literally millions of rod-straight date palm trees will show you the Malaysian equivalent of the American breadbasket. You'll spend the two hours lost in thought while you're overwhelmed by the trees.
While in KL, make sure to catch a meal at any one of the outdoor stalls. At almost any corner you can find Malay curries (curry rendang is a coconut-beef curry that you simply must try), Indian breads (again, the roti-chanai is not to be missed), and Chinese stir fry (look for char-que-tao -- flat noodles with pork). Be cautious but not paranoid about the safety of the food -- anything cooked is fine, and the vegetables are usually fine as well. You should avoid fresh salad and unbottled water from these stalls.
Of course, you'll have to look for the legendary durian fruit (in season starting in December). The durian is known as the world's smelliest fruit, likened politely by outsiders to rotten eggs. More unusual than the smell is the durian's appearance -- the size of a bowling ball, the durain is covered in inch-long spikes. Workers at durian farms actually wear American football helmets to protect themselves from falling fruit. The death rate among durian harvesters actually dropped dramatically after the introduction of football helmets (no kidding). The meat inside the dangerous shell is pulpy and thick. With all of these hazards, it's amazing to realize that the durian is a delicacy, enjoyed fresh, canned, or as a flavor of ice cream. But there are no neutral feelings about durain -- those who don't love it abhor it; many visitors are made ill by the fruit. And don't try to bring one home -- the airlines don't allow it on the plane because of the stench.
Although a visit to Malaysia isn't complete without a stay in KL, you certainly should make an effort to see some other features as well. Try Penang instead of Thailand's overly-commercial Phuket, and make a trip to the east coast of the peninsula for a slower pace of life. The beaches are an undiscovered treasure, and the balmy waters of the South China Sea will make you laugh at Caribbean vacations for the rest of your life.
My background: I lived in Kuala Lumpur from 1986 - 1988, when KL was a sleepy town in the height of Malaysia's recession. The town has since exploded and is said to have deteriorated into the hub-bug of Bangkok, but the core is still there.
Recommended:
Yes
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Member: Tom Fallows
Location: San Francisco, CA
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