Boy, are you missing something!

I’ll admit, Korea was not my first choice destination and Seoul was not my first choice within Korea, but I’m also willing to admit I was wrong. Why this places isn’t a major tourist destination, I don’t know. It has all the things you see in the big destinations, spectacular sites and more history than you can shake a stick at, plus low prices. Add the incredibly nice people and you have a great hidden treasure that will make everybody say "You went where? And it was great? Really?" But I can sense your hesitation. Let me elaborate.

I teach English in Seoul so this is no short hop vacation. This is the full one-year tour (at least.) So let me tell you some of the highlights and some of the drawbacks.

Itaewon /E-Tay-Won/
This is the area right outside the US Army base so it’s pretty well known. It isn’t the most interesting place, but it’s very handy to know about when you really need your fix of American culture or International food. I would avoid bars full of obvious GIs because they cause most of the trouble. Not that many of them aren’t really nice folks but testosterone and alcohol don’t mix well.

Insadong /In-Sa-Dong/
Actual Insadong is very artsy and traditional though there is some good Indian and Chinese food available. You’ll find lots of interesting and authentic items here, though you’ll pay a premium for them. There are always interesting little performances down toward Tapgol Park too. If you cross Jongno you’ll find and area that looks like something out of Bladerunner. There’s so much stuff packed in there you’ll need to look carefully because it goes up 3 or 4 stories everywhere. Bordering that area is the Cheonggeyecheon (cheon means stream). The stream, which the city has been carefully restoring over the past several years, is quite lovely. It’s like a fountain that runs for miles. Of course the other way is a huge and ancient Buddhist temple so if you’re yearning for the heavenly over the earthly, I guess you want to head that way.

Dongdaemun /Dong-Day-Moon/ Market
If you are a fashion fan you may never leave. There are several big fashion ‘malls’ which are nothing like American malls. Instead of a dozen or so shops there are hundreds of booths with an amazing array of merchandise for sale. The malls have talent shows out front too. Strange. There’s a huge market area around the malls too. Much of it is wholesale, but in that you get people selling manufacturer rejects. I found my husband a great jacket for 2000 won, which is $2. Brand new with a small tear in the lining. Whether you’re shopping high end or bargain you can find something. If you don’t mind the hike you can head down the Cheongyecheong (same one) to the Hwangdok Market where you can find everything (everything.) I’ll warn you though, if you find yourself in an area that sells meat you’re going to want to head out ASAP. Not only are the sights horrifying and the smell overpowering, but there is a dog butcher in there someplace. There are plentiful maps if you get lost, which you probably will and if you really get lost the locals will try their darndest to help even if they don’t know a word of English. (Ask for the subway station and don’t be surprised if someone walks you there.) Word of warning, Koreans will assume you are larger than you are. Write down your measurements in millimeters, all of them, just in case. Shoes are measured in mm too and if you are a shoe junkie you’re going to need a couple of extra suitcases to get everything home. This is a day/night market. As far as I can tell it’s closed between 5am and 10am, and even then, not all of it.

Namdaemun /Nam-Day-Moon/ Market
If clothing shopping isn’t your thing then head to Namdaemun. Everything is for sale at Namedaemun. There are a couple of malls and a staggering number of little stalls. There are also guys who drag tarps loaded with sweaters and shirts around and stop in the middle of the aisle if they think they can make a couple of sales. Don’t over look the underground arcades. The food vendor alley here is also a great place to get a look at what you want to eat before it shows up at your table. All the restaurants have plastic sculptures of the food they serve. DO NOT make eye contact with the people hawking the food. They are relentless. I watched a waitress physically drag a woman into the restaurant where I was eating. They don’t appear to be that forward with Westerners, but they are really pushy and it could make you uncomfortable. They are used to being ignored. This is also a day / night market ,but it’s not as hopping late at night as Dongdaemun.

Seodaemun /Say-O-Day-Moon/ Prison
I live up the road from this place and it’s pretty amazing. When the Japanese "annexed" Korea at the beginning of the 20th century the Koreans objected. They objected so strenuously that the Japanese felt the need for lots of big, brutal prisons. I think the Nazis learned a thing or 2 about torture from the Japanese. It will give you a lot of respect for the fortitude of the Korean people. Most of the info is in Korean so I suggest hitting the gift shop for a booklet first and in some cases being really glad you don’t know what it says. Koreans bring their kids here, but it’s pretty graphic and I wouldn’t suggest you bring yours.

Lotte /Low-Tay/ World
This is a large indoor, outdoor amusement park. The park itself isn’t worth doing unless you happen to be here for a long time and you can get a coupon for entry. However, there is a really magnificent museum attached to the park which is well worth the $4 admission. The area leading up to the park and the recreation areas on the 2 basement floors are pretty impressive too. There’s an ice skating rink, a shooting range, a bowling alley, and a pool as well as a mall area decorated with Romanesque statues. The food options inside the park suck. McDonald’s would be a huge improvement. Outside the park there’s a couple of not horrible options like Sizzler and Pizza Hut. Everything is crowded so expect a wait no matter what you do. Even the museum was pretty busy when we were there.

Gyeongbukgung (Soft initial G) /Zhee-Yong-Buck-Gung/
This is the main palace in Seoul. The Japanese tore it all down when they "annexed" the country and the Koreans are still rebuilding it. It’s a complex of buildings and gardens that are breathtakingly beautiful in every season. It seems like every view has a mountain in the background. The $3 admission includes the National Folk Museum which is a sight to see, but also not entirely translated into English. The other museum on the grounds, which is not included with the palace ticket price, is not so great. If you’re really into Joseon history, you’ll love it, otherwise, skip it.

Mountains
Seoul is riddled with mountains. An old man I met on the subway recommended climbing 2 every month for the year that we are here so we could see them all. They are all beautiful. The mountain immediately behind my apartment has a Buddhist temple and a spring. You never know what you might find on the others.

People
The people here are the friendliest I have ever met. If you are lost and ask for help they will do their best. Often you will have 3 people gathered around trying to help you, none of who speak English. We once had a subway conductor go along the platform looking for someone who spoke English to help us. They worry about you if you appear to not be eating too.

Food
This can be tough. Hit a Korean restaurant near you and take notes so you know what you like. If you are a strict vegetarian, stay home. Koreans consider ham a spice. Also, if you can’t handle hot food, be very careful about what you eat. Most everything comes doused in red pepper. The Korean notion meat is also very loose. You won’t get dog meat, but you will get octopus, squid, various bivalves and some things I haven’t figured out yet. There are all kinds of live seafood available for sale on the streets too. If you’re in a tourist district you probably won’t encounter this stuff, but if you wander into a neighborhood don’t be surprised by tubs of live eels.

Subway
This is the easiest system I have ever seen. Each line is numbered and colored and the fist numeral of each station is the same as the line number. I live between 325 and 324, line number 3 or the orange line. There is no where in this city more than one transfer away. The stations are beautifully decorated and well cared for. The cars themselves are extremely clean. On occasion you’ll run across a station that is being remodeled and the signs can be a little wonky, but ask and someone will help you. Or they will find some to help you. You might end up with a small army helping you. We had one guy walk us to our platform when we got lost.

Before You Come
Contrary to the CDC all you really need is a hepatitis shot and it would really require a freak accident for you to get that. The tap water is probably not safe to drink, but bottled water is cheap (30 cents in some places) and easily available. Learn a few key phrases like ‘How much is this?’ /Awl-Ma-Ay-Oh/ and ‘Can I have some salt please?’ /So-Gum Ju-Ssay-o/, but don’t bother with thank you because there are several ways to say it and they’re situation specific. I have yet to meet anyone who isn’t perfectly happy with a polite bow and English thank you. The sentiment translates perfectly. Bring some notepaper with you. Many more Koreans read English than speak it. If you happen to read Culture Shock Korea, take everything they say with a big grain of salt. It rains most of July and August and December through February are cold, but September, October and November are beautiful weatherwise. The jury’s still out on March through June, though that is Yellow Dust season.

Seoul, Korea really is a lovely place to visit, and even to live. Your vacation money will go further, little old men will stop you on the street to ask (in flawless English) how you like it and small children will run up to you on the street and say "Hello!" then "Where are you from?" then "Goodbye!" because they’ve exhausted their stock of English completely. And when you get home you’ll have great stories.


Recommended: Yes

Best Suited For: Families
Best Time to Travel Here: Sep - Nov