Couldn't wait to leave
Written: Aug 25 '02 (Updated Aug 25 '02)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Exotic; cheap; Really good food
Cons: Sticky, dirty, smelly, frustrating, overrated; newly xenophobic - no longer the "Land of Smiles"
The Bottom Line: People go there because they want to see what all the fuss is about. Sadly, Bangkok is not what it was five years ago.
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| davlee's Full Review: Bangkok |
Why people go
Bangkok certainly has its boosters. It has legions of fans in the sex-tourism crowd, which is a sizable proportion of the city's tourism market. It has throngs of post-college Gen X-types who congregate on one short, narrow street called Khao San Road, pretending they're "travellers" on an exotic adventure and not "tourists", though they've managed to recreate a low-rent Vancouver around them. It has busloads of elderly visitors, content to shop in inexpensive markets and snap photos of yet more temples. For all of these tourists, visiting Bangkok fills some kind of need, and it's not my place to judge them for it.
But for me, I can't stand the place anymore. And considering how much I love Thai food, and how much Bangkok has to offer, it's a shame.
It's changed
I first visited Bangkok in 1998. The economic crisis had just hit, but Thais were suprisingly cheerful. The tourism slogan "Land of Smiles" still certainly applied. Of course Bangkok was just as smelly and congested back then, but all of that could be overlooked by the friendliness of the local people.
In recent years, for various political and economic reasons, the current government has blamed foreigners for the country's woes. My wife and I returned in February 2002 and were disappointed by the change. Smiles, when shown, seem more forced. The scam artists prey on tourists knowing the government and the police will do nothing to stop them. The touts have grown more aggressive and desperate. You begin to feel you're there to be exploited, like a walking ATM machine rather than a human.
Sights, tastes, and smells
The museums and temples are certainly good to occupy a visitor for a day or two, though after that you begin to think, "seen one temple, seen them all". The shopping at the outdoor markets is also good for a couple of days, particularly if you want to pick up fake watches and Levi's. Computer users will want to spend some time in Pantip Plaza, where bootleg software can be bought for a few dollars, and hardware is also cheap.
Most people love Thai food, for good reason. The blend of tropical rices and greens, meats and spices has made Thai restaurants the trendy dining choice for millions of Westerners who have never been to Thailand. In Bangkok the food is cheap and absolutely delicious.
You'll notice that it's certainly not a clean city. You'll have to walk around the stray dogs sprawled out on the sidewalks in the afternoon heat. I never got used to the city's stink. It's true that as a developing country in a tropical climate, you can expect (and excuse) some noxious fumes and grime. But Kuala Lumpur (for example) manages to offer all of Bangkok's main drawing points while remaining a pleasant city to be in. I hope the Thais get around to cleaning the place up.
Transit - Actually worth visiting to see how bad it is
Getting around the city is a major challenge. The traffic - like the city - is smelly and slow. Buses are cheap, but you can often walk faster than they travel in peak traffic. The tuk-tuks can weave through the traffic, but many of the drivers are more interested in diverting tourists to jewelry and tailor scams than providing a transportation service. Travel by road in Bangkok is an exercise in torture. Do not wear white when you venture into the city - you will return with filthy brown circles of Bangkok scum around your collar and all over your shirts and pants.
There are other options. The new commuter rail "skytrain" is quick and clean, but it's not very long and is only of limited use depending on where you're going (want to get from Sukhumvit to the train station, or the airport on it? No chance). More interesting, though dirty, are the riverboats that ply the network of canals that wind through the city. Fast and cheap, the only major drawback - apart from the crowds on the boats - is the real risk of being splashed with filthy black Bangkok river water. Consider sitting in the middle.
Conclusion
if you've always wanted to see Bangkok, don't let my review stop you. it's worth going - once - just to see what it's all about. But if you can spare the time, get out of the city and see the real Thailand. Or, better yet, go to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore instead, and enjoy everything that people like about Bangkok while avoiding the hassles.
Recommended:
No
Best Suited For: Students
Best Time to Travel Here: Never
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Epinions.com ID:
davlee
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Location: East Asia
Reviews written: 7
Trusted by: 2 members
About Me:
Some of the worst experiences in life make the best stories!
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