Tortola--British Virgin Islands
Written: Jul 08 '00 (Updated May 08 '02)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: beaches, privacy
Cons: Some overpriced and mediocre food
The Bottom Line: An original and quiet vacation. Wonderful for a family and highly recommended for couples.
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| mess's Full Review: Tortola |
We visited Tortola in June/July 2000. It is a perfect getaway for couples and families looking for privacy and a relatively quiet vacation.
Typically, US citizens fly into San Juan, Puerto Rico, or St. Thomas, before boarding a connecting flight to Beef Island, Tortola. From there, awaiting taxis will take you to your desired accommodations.
Passports are necessary.
U.S. dollars are the cash standard as well as U.S. wattage and electrical outlets. No converters are necessary for your video camera chargers or blow dryers.
As far as I know, no U.S. cellular phone service is available in the B.V.I., but check with your service provider.
Rent a jeep or a 4-wheel drive vehicle of some sort. You will see the most breath-taking views from Tortola's mountainous road systems. (Driving warnings to follow.)
Purchase a snorkeling mask and breathing tube and bring it with you. The beaches provide wonderful viewing opportunities of tropical fish and coral.
SNORKELING is highly recommended.
ACCOMMODATIONS:
We stayed at FORT RECOVERY, a beautiful villa community close to beaches and restaurants on the West end of the island. (About 15 minutes from Roadtown, and five to ten minutes from five different beaches.) Fort Recovery has beautiful villas with full kitchens, living rooms and 1+ bedrooms. The owners are also the managers, thus their customer service is a-one. They are helpful and extremely accommodating. You have a choice of beachfront or poolside rooms. Packages were available, but we chose to simply stay there for 7 nights, which includes a day of snorkeling out in the ocean, yoga classes, a massage, two home cooked dinners, and daily continental breakfast. Wonderful!
Friends have stayed at LONG BAY and gave them high a high grade as well Long Bay’s accommodations are also villas and were directly on the beach--or just a hop from the beach at Long Bay.
BEACHES:
All of the beaches on Tortola are beautiful and private. One almost feels that it is his. We went to Smugglers Cove, Long Bay, Cane Garden Bay and Brewers Bay. Each provided a different experience.
SMUGGLERS COVE.
Western most beach on the island. A rough dirt road leads to Smugglers, known for it's snorkeling and "honor bar". This historical old ruin provides cold beer, soda, juice and simple packaged snacks. You simply place cash into a dish and help yourself. The proprietor wasn’t present either time that we went… This beach seemed more populous than others. Still, it was beautiful and great for snorkeling.
LONG BAY.
Surrounded by the Long Bay Resort, this beach and restaurant provided a shaded or sunny day. Sit under the palm trees, or in the sand using a free lounge chair. Long Bay had clean bathrooms, a great beachfront lunch-or dinner, and a bar. Careful when the tide goes out. Large rocks jut out of the fine sand and the minor injuries can occur.
CANE GARDEN BAY.
A more populous beach, surrounded by restaurants and bars, provides for the partying crowd. Beach chairs were available, and of course, lunch, dinner and drinks.
BREWERS BAY (My favorite)
Quiet and the least populous, Brewer’s Bay was the ultimate getaway. The coral surrounding this beach was perfect for novice snorkeling. A small and friendly "restaurant" named Nicole's rents chairs ($3 each) and makes the best pina colada on the island. Hot-dogs and hamburgers are their standard.
NIGHTLIFE/DINING OUT
Bomba’s Shack
Try to get to Bombas for one of his famous Full Moon parties. Hundreds of people from surrounding islands sail over for this crazy party. Otherwise, just go for his Wednesday or Sunday night ritual. Live Music and Bomba's punch--dancing and some silliness are a must. He also makes what are rumored to be the best ribs on the island.
Quito’s (and virtually all of Cane Garden Bay)
He is open every night, but Quito’s is the Friday night bar. Each Friday, Quito’s band entertains the diners with his island reggae sounds. He has a roomy bar, tables that overlook the beach and decent food, which is slightly overpriced, but you’re on vacation, so who cares.
The C and F (Roadtown)
The C and F is absolutely the best down home meal on the island. A rack of ribs and 1/2 lobster is $38.00--and well worth every penny. Friendly service and special orders don't upset them. This is a must.
The Sugar Mill
The Sugar Mill provided a romantic backdrop and ensured a sumptuous gourmet meal. The service was both friendly and attentive. Dinner was pricey, but well worth it. They also serve a great lunch out on their beachfront terrace.
Sebastian’s
Okay--we were not amused. Very overpriced and very mediocre food. Many restaurants add on a 15% gratuity regardless of the size of your party. This is one of those places. As a result, the service was less than friendly and again, the food was simply crap.
The Jolly Roger
Wonderful for a relaxed dinner or lunch. Salads, burgers, pasta: all good and served by a sweet, fun staff. The Jolly Roger is located near a docking pier, so a very international crowd pulls up for dinner and drinks. It also provided a wonderful view of sunset, as it is located on the Western portion of the island.
Pusser’s
It’s the only "chain" on the island. There's one at Soper's Hole, and one in Roadtown. You may as well stay where you are and go to Bennigans, Hoolihans or the Office. Service was somewhat rude and aloof. However, if you have kids, bring them. The menu was made for them. They did have some promotional events: all you can eat barbecue buffets, lady's night drink specials etc.
Rudy’s
We didn't go up to the Sky Top outlook restaurant but did happen upon RUDY'S. RUDY'S is an outdoor bar on the side of the road leading up to the skytop. His rum punch is great. He had just made a fresh pot of homemade chicken soup--delicious! The people who happened by were locals--friendly and fun. Stop by and have one or two. If nothing else, you’ll hear at least one great story.
DRIVING ON TORTOLA
When you rent a vehicle, you’re required to pay $10 for a temporary license. Get the extra insurance--you'll find it may be worth it. The drivers are insane. The roads are steep and hairpin turns are the norms. There are very few guardrails, if any and many roads line steep cliff sides. Driving is on the Left—British Rule, but most cars on the island are American--steering on the left. Go at your own pace and let the nuts pass you. Take your first drive during the daylight to get used to the roads.
MUSTS
Go snorkeling out on Norman Island
Take a Ferry to Virgin Gourda and see the Baths
Eat a great greasy lunch at Willy T's (a Boat near Norman Island)
Bring SPF, as the sun is extremely strong
For more information--British Virgin Islands has a website listing many restaurants, inns and boat rental information---a relatively extensive listing
Try eating at places that look uninviting and crudely built. You'll be surprised by the good food, friendliness and great prices
Recommended:
Yes
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