Cuba, Guantanamo Bay, The cactus Curtain, A Heavily Fortified 18 Mile Cold War Border Zone!
Written: Dec 29 '08
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Product Rating:
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Pros: An interesting view on one of the last cold war fronts in the world.
Cons: Not the most scenic part of Cuba.
The Bottom Line: An experience you will not forget.
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| amsterdam1970's Full Review: Cuba |
Prologue,
The Republic of Cuba is a large subtropical country in the northern Caribbean consisting of 2 large islands and many smaller ones just miles away from the Floridakeys. The United States of America has no diplomatic relations with the Republic of Cuba. On the other hand USA passport holders are more than welcome to visit Cuba, all that is needed is a valid passport and a Cuban tarjeta de tourista (tourist card). Your passport will not be stamped on arrival by the Cuban immigration authorities as this can create problems upon your return in the USA.
The Republic of Cuba has a special interest office in Washington DC
Republic of Cuba special interest office
2639 16th street NW
Washington DC 20009 USA
History of Guantanamo Bay,
In 1898 the US navy used the Guantanamo Bay area to attack the Spanish fleet during the Spanish-American war. In 1903 the government of the United States used an amendment as a condition to approve Cuba's independence. The amendment stated that the mouth of the Guantanamo Bay area would remain US territory. In 1934 president Roosevelt converted the amendment into a 99 year lease due to expire in the year 2033. This means that untill 2033 the American zone in Guantanamo bay remains a part of the United states. The lease specifies that the territory can only be used for coaling and naval stations, this explains why it was never opened for civilians. The waterway that divides the American zone in two parts belongs legally to Cuba. Cuban commercial and private vessels from the ports of caimanera and Boqueron may use the waterway freely to access the Caribbean waters. After the Cuban revolution the Republic of Cuba chose sides with the Communist Soviet Union. Until today the Communist Cubans and the Americans have a cold war land land border also known as the Cactus Curtain (like the Eastern European Iron Curtain before). A very heavily fortified border with land mines, anti tank barriers, watch towers, razor wire and motion detectors.
Flying to the Cuban side of the Cold War Border Zone,
From my tropical flower patterned soviet seat looking out of the oversized scratched round soviet windows of my Cubana Airlines Antonov AN-24RV the Guantanamo US naval base on the American territories is clearly visible. A very pretty flight attendant with a nice caramel colored skin and a face that hints the orient requests the sons and daughters of the revolution to fasten their seat belts. Banking towards Guantanamo Mariana Grajales Airport we get some great views of the large appartment blocks surrounded by the big shopping malls and supermarkets on the capitalists side of the fortified border. It could just as well be on a different planet. The weather is superb witha cloudless blue sunny sky. We overfly the dry flat grass lands with it's large state run cattle ranches on our final approach. Stepping out of the tired antiquated soviet turboprop walking towards the small red and white terminal building I smell the fresh clean scented air with the pleasant aroma of sub-tropical flowers.
A drive to the Cactus Curtain, a Cold War Border Zone Front,
The socialist Cuban sun shines on my face, the wind is playing with my hair, I drive the screaming yellow rental open 1957 Cadillac fleetwood out of the Soviet styled Guantanamo Airport, authentic Rumba Music sounding out of the speakers. I have to honk every few seconds to the horse -drawn carriages, ox carts and old soviet styled tractors on the road. I stop briefly to pick up some school children that are thumbing for a ride. I am heading towards the border at Caimanera, ready for the cold war frontier experience. Che Guevara showing his huge fists raised in the air on a giant bordello red poster next to the road seems to understand what I mean. The road to Caimanera passes through an arid area of large salt farms. I halt briefly at a government run Merenderos (cafeteria) having a cooling Helenado Natilla (Ice cream and Vanilla pudding), and Banana Batido (Milkshake).
The Hotel Caimanera, A Room with a Priceless Cold War Border Zone View,
The hotel Caimanera is dramatically located less than a mile away from the cactus curtain on an almost barren hilltop, just visible is an occasional atmospheric mariposa flower. The receptionist, a large Cuban woman with an attitude shouts out in bewilderment when I request a room with a view on El-Emperio (the Empire in reference to the Americans). She continues to exclaim temperamental words of aggression before looking up in the sky asking El-Commandante for forgiveness for me being such a cacique (tyrant). Finally she sighs with huge contempt and mumbles "estadounense" (another slang for Americans) while spitting with exaggerated violence on the floor inches from my shoes. My attractively furnished comfortable room in this divisas hotel (hard currency hotel) is located on the second floor of a white bungalow witha smart blue colored balcony next to a refreshing pool and a small patio with sliding doors. My balcony comes with a priceless view on the front lines of the cold war. The Cuban revolutionaries on this side and the Americans on the other. In between the trenches, the land mines, the high tech security fences and the watchtowers. I feel an urgent need for a trago (alcoholic drink). I pour myself a glass of straight Carta de Oro Havana Club golden rum, sit down on my balcony and lit a large original Monte Cristo Cigar, hand-rolled on a sweaty socialist's thigh.
Things to do when one is visiting the Cold War Border Zone at Guantanamo's Cactus Curtain (Communist Side)?
1) Drive up on Castro Road to the North East Gate Border Crossing (Communist Side)
The narrow Castro road leads from the small Cuban harbour village of Boqueron through the barren hills to the only crossing in the 18 mile long fortified border between the Republic of Cuba and the United States Territory of Guantanamo; the remote North East Gate. From the Cuban Border post located in the middle of the extensive mine fields with the cement and-steel anti-tank barriers, trenches, six foot high razor wire and motion detectors you can overview the US army barracks on the other side. The gates on both sides open twice a day once at 05:30AM and once at 04:30PM. On a hilltop just before the border Cold War Tourists and Border Freaks can spy on the Imperialists through old Soviet telescopes for hard currency only.
For a photo of North East Gate border crossing between Cuba and the US guantanamo territory please look at this photo http://www.defenselink.mil/dodcmsshare/newsstoryPhoto/2006-11/hires_061116-A-3715G-152.JPG
2) Take a boat ride on the bay straight through the American territories.
The waterway in the bay belongs to the Republic of Cuba and one of the lease terms specifies that Cuban Civilian and Commercial vessels are allowed to traverse the bay. A really great opportunity to sail on a flamboyant painted Cuban fishing boat lazily through the turqoise waters of the American territories past the Medico and Hospital islands towards the Fisherman Point with some superb views on it's Naval Harbour and it's docking facilities. Later on you will pass the two US airports named Mc Calla Field and Leeward Point Field, one on each side of the bay. Unfortunately you are not allowed to dock at the Mc Donalds here, the only one in Cuba. The Americans frown on these Cold War experience tourist trips on the bay so keep a low profile. Keep your binoculars in your bag otherwise your boat will be stopped followed by a lengthy unpleasent interrogation. An "illegal" ride on a Cuban Fishing vessel through the bay is not going to be cheap. Just contact one of the plentyful Jineteros (A hustler who preys on tourists) at the Caimanera or Boqueron harbour front for a trip.
How to get to the Cactus Curtain Cold War Zone Border (Communist Side)?
There are no direct flight between the United States and the Republic of Cuba. You will have to travel to Mexico first and than catch one of the daily Cubana Airlines flights from Mexico City or Cancun to Havana's Jose Marti international airport in Cuba. To get to Guantanamo from Havana there are four flights weekly by an old Soviet Antonov AN-24RV operated by Cubana departing Havana at 05:30AM on tuesdays,wednesdays,fridays and sundays. Please check http://http://www.cubana.cu for more information
Where to stay with the best views over the Cold War Action (Communist Side)?
The 18 room Hotel Caimanera in Caimanera village located on an hilltop right next to the Mine fields and the Watch towers is a fabulous place to stay for a Cold War freak. A double Room with Air Conditioning should cost about $30 US Dollars a night
Address, Loma Norte, Caimanera. Guantánamo
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Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Singles
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
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Epinions.com ID:
amsterdam1970
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Member: Amsterdam 1970
Location: -Oue`a Ali Sabieh- Djibouti
Reviews written: 63
Trusted by: 15 members
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