Culebra An Anniversary to Remember.
Written: Sep 14 '02
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Product Rating:
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Pros: secluded getaway with white sand beaches
Cons: not for the resort types
The Bottom Line: This island is like stepping back in time. I never been anywhere with beaches as secluded and as beautiful.
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| gregjhnc's Full Review: Culebra |
Culebra – An Anniversary to Remember.
If you are looking for a secluded getaway, beautiful white sand beaches, and a chance to kick back and enjoy “island time” with nothing to distract you, then Culebra is the place to go. Culebra is like stepping back in time to the Caribbean of 40 years ago.
My wife and I flew Isla Nena airlines from San Juan International to Culebra on a Thursday afternoon in August for our 24th Anniversary. We decided to take Isla Nena airlines rather than the ferry because we were returning to San Juan on Sunday and we wanted all the time we could get on Culebra. The cost of our roundtrip tickets were $130.00 each, but it saved the four or five hours that it would have taken to make the trip to Fajardo and the ferry to Culebra. In addition, our flight landed in San Juan at 2:30 PM and it would have been very difficult if not impossible to catch the last ferry to Culebra. (From personal experience, the ferry service to Culebra and Viequez has a history of not running due to various reasons, so if getting to the island on any particular day is important to you, do not rely on the ferry).
You must pay for your tickets in advance on Isla Nena when you book your flight and your tickets are non-refundable. Most advice I read on getting to the island suggested booking well in advance, but there was only one other person on our flight to the island. The staff of Isla Nena is extremely friendly, but they will weigh your luggage and they will charge you $.50 per pound for each pound you check over 30 lbs. You will not need anything on the island anyway so leave everything at home except your suntan lotion and snorkeling gear. Isla Nena gives you a paper receipt which is your return ticket and they tell you if you lose it, you must buy another ticket to get back and they mean it. On our return trip a young lady had to buy a ticket back to San Juan when she could not find hers.
We enjoyed our first experience with “island time” on our flight. Scheduled to leave at 5:00 PM we asked if we could take the 3:00 PM flight and they were happy to accommodate us. At 3:15, the pilot and counter agent were still discussing whether to fly the 3:00 PM flight or cancel it and fly the 5:00 PM flight. After a spirited conversation, the counter agent prevailed and we loaded up on a new Cessna Caravan and took off with my wife and the manager of the Dinghy Dock, a restaurant on Culebra at around 3:30.
We enjoyed a very comfortable ride but slightly bumpy ride with great views of Fajardo and the rain forest El Yunque until we got to the approach on Culebra. As you approach the airport you fly directly over Flamenco Beach and then between two small mountains. The pilot hugs the mountain on the right and is literally flying just above the tree tops. He follows the side of the mountain and all of sudden you see the landing strip another 500 or 600 hundred feet to right and you’re perpendicular to it.
He just keeps flying at tree top level until he is at the end of the runway and then makes a hard left turn, dives, and lands. I fly every week so I enjoyed the thrill of it but my wife was more than glad when the wheels touched the asphalt.
After quickly getting our bags at plane side, (I fly USAirways a lot so you know what a pleasure that was) we walked across the street to Jerry’s Jeeps. We had read several reviews about how crazy Jerry is, and we were not disappointed. Jerry was nowhere to be found as he thought we were coming in on the 5:00 PM flight and we could not raise him on the cell phone. (Our cell phones worked everywhere on the island and we had very good signals. We are on Verizon and I was told that our signals were actually coming from St. Thomas which is only twelve miles away)
If you have never been to Puerto Rico, your first impression of Culebra could be a disappointment. The island is basically very poor and most of the homes are concrete with junk just lying around everywhere. If you are expecting well manicured landscapes and golf resort type of surroundings then do not plan a trip to Culebra. When you walk up to Jerry’s it will remind you of a junk yard in the states with a lot of old Suzuki “jeeps” in various states of repair. Jerry rents Suzuki’s, not jeeps.
After waiting for a bit we called Druso, the owner of the Harbour View Villas, and he said he would send his daughter down to pick us up, take us to check in and then run us back to get our jeep. While waiting for Jennifer, Druso’s daughter, Jerry shows up and we start the process of renting the jeep. I say process, but renting a jeep with Jerry is more like a fun adventure. Jerry is a wealth of information about the island, its people, places to eat, places to go, which beaches have the best snorkeling, etc. Jerry is from the states, but has lived in the islands for a number of years. In short, it is worth renting from Jerry for the information he provides, his famous hand drawn maps, and his wonderful sense of humor. We rented a relatively new four door Suzuki hard top (you can not rent soft tops anywhere on the island) with air-conditioning for $165.00 (tax included) for three days.
Jerry needed to check in a jeep that was being returned, so Jennifer took us on a 45 minute tour of Dewey. Dewey is the town in which you land and is the only town on the island. We were shown where the restaurants were and what they served, hours they were open, etc. Our tour included driving by the only liquor store on the island, the two gas stations, the two grocery stores, the bakery, etc. The town of Dewey is very small so it is not difficult to figure out where everything is once you manage to figure out the two one way streets.
Jennifer has lived on the island most of her life except for time spent in the states going to school. She was a great tour guide and could offer insights into the history and culture of the island. (She also informed me that I, not my wife, would be fined for walking in town with no shirt on and that the local police were very strict about this law) She was an unexpected pleasant addition to our arrival on the island. She is planning on opening a restaurant on the Villa properties next year. She just graduated from the prestigious culinary school Johnson & Wales and we wish her well in her endeavor.
When staying at the Harbour View Villas, you do not exactly check in. Having found the property on the internet, we had to send a money order for our stay in advance ($125.00 per night including tax and all fees) and the Daubon’s email you back and let you know your reservation is ok. Having already paid, we were taken straight to our villa. We asked for a Villa that was secluded and private and we were not disappointed. Our villa was the last one of three down a long concrete walk that overlooks the harbor of Dewey where the ferry docks. The villa is completely private, surrounded by trees, but with a deck that offers a spectacular view of the harbor and the island of Viequez in the distance.
The villas are very rustic A frame structures. The “first” floor has a living area with two sofas built into the wall with a dining table that is really built over the top of the stairs you walk up to enter the villa, and a kitchen. The kitchen has a stove, sink, microwave, and a refrigerator. The bathroom and shower are also located on the “first” floor, but are enclosed to offer privacy. Walking up the stairs to the second floor, you have a queen bed with mosquito netting to sleep under which we did not need. We did not get bitten by anything at all during our entire stay on the island. Off the bedroom are two large French doors that open to the deck looking up the mountain. It is a very private deck as it is surrounded by trees, but provides a very nice breeze.
Being lovers of the outdoors and camping, the very rustic nature of the villas was exactly what we were looking for. The villas have no air conditioning, only ceiling fans. The villa was a little warm in the afternoon but the breeze made it comfortable and at night it was very comfortable. Off the living area there are four large French doors that open onto a deck with the spectacular view mentioned before and this open area provides a very nice breeze all the time.
There are no phones, televisions or radios in the villa. The bathroom was clean but we did not figure out how to get hot water for showers until after we had left. (there is a timer to the right of the mirror you must turn on and wait five minutes for hot water.)
The refrigerator in our villa kept things cool, not cold, and the freezer did not work at all. If you want your drinks cold, buy ice. There are no locks on the doors and we were told there is no problem with crime of any kind on the island. We left our things in the villa during the day with no problems whatsoever.
If rustic is not what you looking for, then the Harbour View Villas are not for you. They are clean, but they are not the Holiday Inn. We were there for three days and never saw the owners again. There is no room service and the sheets and towels were not changed during our stay. This is not a criticism of the property as we don’t change our sheets at home everyday either, but some folks might expect that type of service for $125.00 a day.
You’re not camping in a tent, but you’re not far from it in these Villas. We were visited daily by the local variety of the lizard, the Gecko of t.v fame. They showed up everywhere and often. Since this is the type of vacation we were looking for, we enjoyed our stay very much and would recommend the property for those who are looking for a secluded rustic setting.
After unloading our luggage, Jerry arrived to bring us our jeep and take us on another brief tour of the town. On our way back to the villas we stopped at the grocery store to pick up drinks, snacks, etc. The prices were surprising reasonable since everything on the island must come by ferry.
By this time of the evening it is dark, and that means Culebra gets real quiet. There are only a couple of bars on the island and no night clubs at all. As a matter of fact several of the restaurants were closed. We dined at the Dinghy Dock. Located across the draw bridge and located literally next to and over the Ensenada Honda Bay, the Dinghy Dock offered a diverse menu at reasonable prices. We ate there two nights and they offer a variety of fresh seafood dishes, steak, pork, chicken and salads. Our meals with drinks (sodas) and dessert ran around $45.00 with tip. Be careful with the tips, one night it had been added to our bill while the second night it had not. We enjoyed meals, the very relaxed atmosphere and the “island time” service. Both nights we enjoyed watching a gorgeous full moon rise in the night sky and cool breeze of the water.
Later the first evening, we enjoyed setting on the deck of the villa watching the full moon and its reflection off the harbor bay, a cool breeze off the water, and the absolute quiet and solitude of the villa’s seclusion. It was one of the most romantic settings I can remember in a long time.
Day two arrived around 5:30 with the sound of the town rooster announcing the new day. Although we were at least a half mile from the town and dock, sound carries very well over the water in Culebra. While my wife slept, I enjoyed the sunrise, watching the cargo ferry depart for Fajardo and solitude of the deck for several hours.
Mid morning we headed into town, picked up sandwiches and ice for lunch, and headed for Zoni Beach on the north east coast of the island. On the road to Zoni you drive over most of the island and pass the bay with its yachts and mangrove trees, climb over the eastern most part of the mountain and see spectacular views of Culebrita and St Thomas Islands. The road had been paved all the way to the beach two weeks before so the drive is very easy to make now. I can only believe that this easy access will change the beauty of what is the most beautiful beach I have ever been on.
The Travel Channel got it all wrong. They rated Flamenco Beach as the second most beautiful beach in the world. I can only wonder if they made the 15 minute drive to Zoni. Zoni appears to be around two miles long. From one end to the other the beach is pristine white sand surround by crystal clear blue water. Being on the north side of the island I understand the surf can be quite rough. This was not the case on the day we were there. The water was still with almost no surf at all. The beach was two tiered with visible evidence of rough surf cutting the beach in half with a two foot wall of sand. The upper half of the beach was covered with some vines and vegetation while the lower half was gently sloping white sand to the water.
To the east of the parking area, the beach runs about ¾ mile to rock formation jutting out into the water. To the west, beach runs for at least 1.5 miles to a cliff running to the water. To your back and to the west the beach is protected by a mountain running parallel to beach. We walked to the west about a mile and found a grove of Palm trees at the edge of the upper beach. This spot was absolute heaven. The slope of the beach in the water enabled you to walk out about 30 to 40 feet into the water and then was surrounded by reefs. The water appeared to be clear to about 40 to 50 feet deep and was calm enough to snorkel with no problems.
The Palm trees provided excellent shade all day and was a welcome relief from the sun on several occasions during the day. Sitting under these trees and reading a book while looking out at Cayo Norte was the most peaceful and restful day I have experienced in my life.
We spent around six hours on Zoni. During our stay, we saw one person walk past us to the far west end of the beach after lunch. The far west end of the beach has large boulders in the water to the edge of the cliff, creating a “bath” area. Other than that one person we had the beach all to ourselves. While nudity is illegal on Culebra, if one wants to partake, Zoni is the place to do it. The beach is isolated on all sides and if you’re far enough down the beach you can see people coming well before they can see you. If you’ve ever wanted to go a picture perfect beach and have it all to yourself, Zoni is the only beach that I have ever found that is too beautiful to describe.
Late that afternoon we went back to Melones Beach to go snorkeling. Melones is a short five minute walk from the villas. Melones is known for being a good beach for snorkeling beginners. We saw a wide variety of fish and the area was very enjoyable to snorkel. The best spots are about 100 feet north of where you enter the water and then north from there.
Day three arrived much like day two with the awakening by the town rooster. It is absolutely amazing how such a little bird can make so much noise.
Our first stop of the day was Flamenco Beach. A beach of about two and half miles, the beach is horseshoe shaped with a large reef system that protects the beach from rough water. The beach is very wide white sand and surrounded by trees. We walked to the north end and past the tank on the beach that was once used by the US Navy for target practice. The beach was very crowded from what we were told. There may have been 20 people on the whole thing. Don’t get me wrong, the beach is very beautiful and is one of the nicest we’ve ever been on. Just don’t go to Culebra without going to Zoni and Brava.
I’ll leave it to someone else to sing Flamenco praises.
We stopped for lunched at El Batey for lunch and the islands best hamburgers. If you’ve never experienced Puerto Rico you would be afraid to eat there, but the burgers were good.
Our last beach to visit was Brava Beach. Much like Zoni, we saw no one all day and the beach was stunningly beautiful. Brava is much more difficult to get to. Since Brava is a turtle beach, the access is much more restricted. The paved road ends about two miles from the beach and you are supposed to walk over the hill to the beach. We did see evidence of people driving on the primitive dirt road to the beach, but unless you are familiar with driving a four wheel drive vehicle, I would not try it. There is one very difficult washed out section of the road that I don’t think a novice could get through.
At the end of the paved road, park off the shoulder of the road at the house that has the sign on the top for Abraham who is running for some type of local political office. Walk over the hill and then down the other side for about 20 minutes. When the road forks, take the right fork. If you pass an old Spanish well in about a hundred feet you are on the right road. You will enter the beach on the far eastern end.
To your right will be boulders creating “baths” and to your left will be a mile and half of a horseshoe shaped pristine beach. We walked about half way to end and again found a grove of Palm trees to spend the day.
The overall appearance of the beach is much the same as Zoni, the biggest difference being how rough the water is. The surf at Brava was two to three feet in the middle of the beach with waves bigger on the ends. In addition there was a strong undertow that could pull you away from the beach if you’re not a strong swimmer. The water is not as clear as Zoni due to the rough surf, but is still a beautiful cobalt blue. We were there at the end of the turtle nesting season, so I not sure what the restrictions are on the beach during the late spring and early summer. Of the two beaches I would recommend Zoni, but if you’re looking for privacy, most folks are not going to make the 25-30 minute walk to Brava.
Day four meant that our trip to paradise was over. We had a 9:30 AM flight back to San Juan, but “island time” had one more lesson for us. You must arrive at least one hour before your flight time which meant arriving at the airport at 8:30 AM. At 10:00 AM the plane had still not shown up and no one was at the Isla Nena counter. Around 10:15 the flight arrives with the ticket agent aboard the plane and the pilot promptly leaves for a snack. Our 9:30 flight leaves sometime after 10:30 AM. But even that wasn’t all bad. We had another hour in paradise and a beautiful view of the island as we took off for civilization and thoughts off when we would get another chance to come back again.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
gregjhnc
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Reviews written: 1
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