Rum, stings, and things
Written: Oct 28 '99
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: deserted beaches, cheap prices, beautiful waters, friendly people
Cons: mosquitoes - bring your OFF!!!
|
|
|
| victor.fiorillo's Full Review: Culebra |
GO TO CULEBRA!
I just returned from a 5 night trip to Puerto Rico on the US Air E-Saver fare, $199rt from Philadelphia. We spent two nights in Old San Juan, one night beachfront in the Condado, and two nights in Culebra.
Culebra is an island, about 7 miles long and 5 miles wide, off the east coast of Puerto Rico. One inhabitant gave the population as 2,000, but this seems a bit liberal after driving around the island.
To get to Culebra, you have two options. The first and probably most economical option is the ferry and the second is by plane.
The ferry leaves several times a day from Fajardo, on Puerto Rico's east coast. If you are staying in San Juan and do not have a flexible schedule or if you are with a group of people, take a taxi. This trip should cost you no more than $50.00. If you are alone and/or you have a flexible schedule, you can try to navigate the publico (grand-taxi) or bus system. I took a taxi. The drive takes about 50 minutes from Old San Juan, and you should buy your ferry ticket at least 45 minutes before departure.
The ferry schedules are as follows:
Fajardo > Culebra
Monday through Friday: 9:30AM and 3:00PM
Weekends: 9:00AM and 4:00PM
Culebra > Fajardo
Monday through Friday: 11:00AM and 4:30PM
Weekends: 7:00AM, 2:00PM and 5:30PM
The fare is only $2.25 each way and the smooth ride takes about one hour and twenty minutes.
If you choose to fly, the two airlines you should look at are Vieques Air Link http://www.vieques-island.com/val/ and Isla Nena Air Service (787-741-6362 or 787-742-0972). Vieques Air Link flies from the Isla Grande airport in San Juan and Isla Nena flies from San Juan International. Chances are, Isla Nena will prove to be more convenient.
This is Isla Nena's schedule. The fare is $95r/t and $50o/w
7:00 AM Culebra - San Juan
8:00 AM San Juan - Culebra
9:30 AM Culebra - San Juan
12:30 PM San Juan - Culebra
1:30 PM Culebra - San Juan
3:00 PM San Juan - Culebra
4:30 PM Culebra - San Juan
5:30 PM San Juan - Culebra
We decided to take the ferry to Culebra and fly back on Isla Nena Air Service. The flight was on an eight person plane and quite bumpy, but we made it in one piece to San Juan in just under twenty-five minutes. I should tell you that these airlines are extremely laid back. We were told by locals that the airline may not show unless the flight is full or almost full. Our flight was supposed to leave at 9:30AM. We arrived at the "airport" at 9:00AM and found a sign on the ticket counter, "Be back at 9:30AM". At 9:45AM, a small plane flew over the nearby hill and landed on the tiny strip. The pilot lazily strolled from the airplane to the ticket counter, took our tickets, and off we went.
If you arrive by ferry, you will be in the center of town, which is formally known as Dewey, a tribute to the U.S. Navy admiral by the same name. You will be within easy walking distance of many guesthouses and restaurants. If you arrive by plane, you will be too far away to walk.
In any case, the first thing you should do is rent a car. You cannot get the full benefits of this island without a car. There is no bus service and limited taxi service. The other option is to rent a bike, but given the road conditions, I would suggest a car. I was very happy with Jerry from Jerry's Jeeps. He is right across from the airport and will happily deliver a car to you at the ferry terminal, airport, or anywhere else for that matter. He will draw you an elaborate map of the island by hand, give you a guided tour of a good part of it, and send you on your way. He only has those annoying Suzuki "jeeps", mostly manual, and they cost $45 per day + 9% tax. There is no insurance, so make sure your credit card or auto insurance covers you in Puerto Rico, or be extremely careful.
Once Jerry sets you up with a car, you need a place to stay. If you are looking for a secluded, romantic getaway with a lot of privacy, check out Harbor View Villas (787) 742-3855. It's pricey, but they look beautiful. We chose Mamacita's, located right on the main drag in Dewey, over the canal. We paid $50 per night for a lovely small apartment in this tropical guesthouse/restaurant. The staff is friendly, the rooms are clean and colorful, and there is air conditioning. At the restaurant, try whatever fish they brought in that day, and be sure to have a few pina coladas. Try their variation, passionfruit juice, coconut cream, and rum. You can reach Mamacita's at (787) 742-0090. We were able to walk to Mamacita's from the ferry terminal.
Some other restaurants to try... For early breakfast, your choices are limited to, as far as I know, the Dinghy Dock, just over the drawbridge from Mamacita's. An exotic fresh fruit plate, waffles with guava syrup and bacon, and a cheddar omelette will run you about $18.00. If you are in the mood for lunch burgers, try El Batey. If you want some excellent local food, head to Tina's. Tina's feels very "authentic". It's kind of dirty, kind of smelly, but the food is great and, if they're not busy, she makes you do your own drinks, which is kind of fun. We had a large platter of rice and beans and a whole yellowtail with drinks for $18.00. If you want something a little more upscale, try Club Seabourne, which is closed on Monday and Tuesday. The upshot of Club Seabourne is that they have a great screened in eating area. Entrees are around $20. Other than that, there is a pizza place, a deli, a chinese takeout, and a few other places scattered about. Jerry will point all of these places out on his handdrawn map.
Other than eating, drinking, sleeping, and loving, there are only a few other things to do on Culebra: sunbathing, water activities, and hiking.
For sunbathing and swimming, the most conducive and easily accessible beach is Playa Flamenco. There is a parking lot, picnic areas, and toilets. It was near deserted while we were there, but I would imagine that it gets crowded on weekends, especially during the high season. It is a horseshoe shaped sandy beach, lined by coconut groves.
There is also snorkeling on Flamenco. If you walk down the right side of the beach, you will see two lines of rocks going out into the water. This used to be a cage that the Navy used to trap and observe sharks. It is here where some extensive reef formations begin. BUT I must warn you. While snorkeling in this area, I had a most unfriendly encounter with some sort of marine life. It felt like I scraped against a piece of rough coral and ripped open my leg, but as I neared shore, I realized that there was no blood. There were about fifty white quills buried in my leg, and it stung badly. I went to the "hospital", but the doctors, who were all long time residents, had absolutely no idea what it was or how to treat it. They pulled the quills and that was about it. As it turns out, I was ok within 30 hours, but the pain was horrible. If there had been a more serious problem, Culebra has no medical facility capable of dealing with this.
My favorite beach experience was Playa Carlos Rosario. Behind the administrative office at Flamenco, there is a trail leading into the woods to the left side of the parking lot. It is easy to see and usually very muddy. You can hike this trail for about twenty minutes. You may encounter snakes, exotic birds, turtles, frogs, and lizards, including large iguanas. At the end of the trail is a beach that will take you back to the 80s film, the Blue Lagoon. There was no one else for miles and miles. The snorkeling was fabulous, much better than Flamenco, although the sea urchins were plentiful. We both pursued "all over" tans, which was a nice treat, and there was no danger of anyone coming along. This beach was paradise! The water was very clear. I would put visibility at about 20 feet.
As for hiking, we really did not do any except for the hike to Carlos Rosario. We were told that you can hike along the coast from Carlos Rosario to Flamenco and that this hike is beautiful.
Overall, the people of Culebra were extremely friendly. On the down side, two men refused to help me when I approached them about my sting. Other than that, everyone was at least courteous, if not warm and approachable. There does not seem to be much crime in Culebra, even though the police presence is minimal. The doctors who helped me at the hospital did not charge me for their services, something unheard of in the fifty states. Everyone seems to know eachother and people keep popping up where least expected. Two of the doctors who helped me were boating down the canal the next day. As you will see, there is a small town feel, but everyone pretty much minds their business.
If you travel to Culebra during the high season, I would imagine that it would not be as good as this. Try to go before the huge crowds reach the shores.
I would recommend this trip for anyone who is looking for the anti-resort experience. If you want truly private, deserted beaches and beautiful, crystal clear waters, this is for you. If you want to get excellent value for your money, this is for you.
Just beware the naive peacefulness you will feel in the reefs!
Recommended:
Yes
|
|
|
|
Epinions.com ID:
victor.fiorillo
|
|
Member: Victor Fiorillo
Reviews written: 6
Trusted by: 0 members
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.