Charming Bequia - Does It Belie Its Magic?
Written: Mar 16 '07
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: Tranquil, slow-paced, with beautiful uncrowded beaches, turquoise seas, and lush vegetation.
Cons: Appallingly, this island still engages in WHALING to keep local tradition alive.
The Bottom Line: Bequia, or "Island of the Cloud" in Carib, is the perfect tropical island get-away for some while others will highly object to the ongoing practice of whaling.
|
|
|
| whalewatcher's Full Review: Bequia |
With its lush, rolling volcanic hills, a translucent sea fringed by crescent shaped white-sand beaches, brightly painted wooden houses tucked behind tropical palms, and sleepy little towns where life proceeds at a snail's pace, the little seven square mile island of Bequia oozes the Caribbean charm and intimacy so many long for when dreaming of a perfect, idyllic get-away.
Bequia (pronounced 'beck-way') is the largest island in the Grenadines, an archipelago made up of a string of small, incredibly beautiful islands which are by many considered as the best kept secret in all of the Caribbean. However, they have not gone unnoticed by the rich and famous (i.e. Mick Jagger & Tommy Hilfiger) who have claimed the tiny nearby island of Mustique as their sanctuary. But the lifestyle of the super wealthy in such close proximity has yet to rub off on Bequia whose less than 5000 inhabitants are mostly preoccupied with fishing and boat building.
Still a member of the British Commonwealth, it's only fitting that the capital, Port Elizabeth, was named after the English Queen. The picturesque little town overlooks Admiralty Bay, which is probably the most happening place in all of Bequia. Dotted with colorful fishing boats and the occasional yacht, only the ferry boat bringing people and cargo from nearby islands seems to disturb the peace. Just a handful of small shops, restaurants and boutique hotels line the shore, camouflaged by swaying palms and peaceful terraces with open-air seating. And, with fitting names like Frangipani, Gingerbread, and Plantation House, they virtually guarantee life in the slow lane.
A pretty stone walk-way leads south along the waterfront and this is where you might find your favorite watering hole, perhaps even stay for a magnificent Caribbean sunset. Pretty Princess Margaret Beach is within walking distance and can easily be reached by taking the walk-way to the end, then continuing on the dirt trail up over the hill and on to the beach. It's great for swimming but snorkeling is not particularly interesting here. You can pick up a taxi ($10) under the big Almond Tree (a popular landmark) near the main ferry dock and head for the little town of Lower Bay, which has a wide palm-fringed beach by the same name. Snorkeling is excellent around the rocky outcroppings. The other option is to go by water-taxi which is cheaper ($2) but you might have to wait a while.
An interesting walk is to head north from the ferry dock, past the market (great local produce & fish) and continue along the harbor into a more local neighborhood. It's almost a postcard setting, brightly painted fishing boats are lined up along the shore and the houses are modest but colorful and neat. Sheep in goat's clothing (I could have sworn they were goats) graze in the yards, women and children wave from balconies, and men are gathered in shady spots along the shore, playing Dominoes. Life here is definitely on island time. Hobbies, however, are taken seriously and it's impressive to watch young men out in the water, intent on fine-tuning the sail-worthiness of their miniature sailboats. Chasing after the tiny boats by either swimming or paddling on a surf board, they periodically (and very skillfully) adjust the position of the sails to make use of the wind for maximum speed. These amazing little boats actually compete in races during the Easter festival.
Model boat building is big in Bequia and setting foot into one (or several) of the shops, which are located at this end of town, is fascinating. Tens of meticulously carved and incredibly detailed model boats of various sizes line the shelves, with some price tags running into the thousands. We found some craftsmen at work in a back room and they proudly explained the intricate workmanship going into one of those perfect replicas. A few hundred dollars will buy one of the smaller boats and they do have collapsible masts for easy packing. The prices were too rich for our pocket-book, but I'm sure that many of these impressive models will find a home on Mustique, where money is no object!
The currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar (exchange rate 2.7 EC to $1) but we found that the US dollar is widely accepted. However, change is mostly given in EC money which can't easily be exchanged outside of the area.
Beware of the little green apples (Manchineels) along the beaches and roads. They are quite poisonous. And be careful not touch the innocent looking Brazil bush (leaves look like holly), which can cause some nasty blisters. I brushed up against it ever so slightly and had to nurse itchy blisters for several days.
We took an early morning catamaran trip to Mustique and highly recommend it, although the water can be rough. Don't forget your binoculars! It's fun to get a close-up view of the big mansions, catching a glimpse of a celebrity or two and getting the 'scoop' on who lives where from the boat captain. On the way there, as you pass along the southern end of Bequia, you can't help but notice the many peculiar stone structures clinging to the steep cliffs. They are the result of an ambitious project by an eccentric American quite a few years ago. The architecture is most unusual and some buildings look like miniature castles. Built with only native stone, they blend in perfectly with the surrounding rock faces. For whatever reason, the project was never completed and none of the houses were ever sold. Only a few show any sign of life and are occupied by locals (squatters) who added make-shift windows and doors and live there without electricity and proper plumbing.
The tiny island of Petit Nevis, almost within spitting distance, is the site of an old whaling station. The operation has now been moved to Bequia, bringing to question why an old whaling station had to be moved. The unfortunate answer is that BEQUIA STILL ENGAGES IN WHALING!! The International Whaling Commission has allowed this island a 'catch' of two whales per year which, of course, should more appropriately be called 'slaughter'. Worse yet, local fishermen made no bones about telling us that they take as many as four!
The island's long history of whaling obviously played a role in this decision but I'm baffled as to how they convinced the Commission to make this ruling. Whaling is certainly not critical for survival, especially in this day and age and in this part of the world. To claim it as their sustenance is just plain ludicrous. April is the month for whaling and is part of (or the reason for) their big Easter festival. Hunting a species on the protected list (humpbacks are usually targeted), merely to uphold an old tradition is a travesty, at least in my book.
But not everyone cares about such issues. For those who don't, this little island can be paradise. For me, the thought of those beautiful turquoise waters turning red with blood as yet another whale is sacrificed is nothing short of ghastly, and it's far more than I am able to tolerate. And while some might enjoy that tropical drink at the Whaleboner Bar, where the bar top and the bar stools are crafted out of whale bones, I would no doubt choke on it.
Whaling aside and trying to be objective, I must give this island a high rating because of its many attributes. I would recommend it to anyone who likes to experience the beauty and intimacy of a small, still unspoiled and relatively inexpensive Caribbean island, and who is not sensitive to the whaling issue. Although we only spent one full day on Bequia while cruising in the Grenadines on a small Windstar ship, I came away with many lasting impressions, both good and bad.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
|
|
|
|
Epinions.com ID:
whalewatcher
|
 - Top 500 |
|
Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
Reviews written: 197
Trusted by: 244 members
About Me:
Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.