An Off-the-cuff Insider's View
Written: Nov 26 '01
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Scale, Pace, Transportation, Art, Architecture, Cleanliness, Desserts
Cons: Not the most cosmopolitan of major European capitals (people-wise), Food (for some)
The Bottom Line: I would recommend Vienna as one stop in an Central-Eastern European holiday. Be sure to see Budapest, Prague, Salzburg, and Croatia (in summer).
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| bureau2020's Full Review: Vienna |
I am an expat living in Vienna. I approached this city, initially, like most people, as a tourist. Since then, many people have come to here to visit me, and this has afforded the chance to play tour guide. The result is that now, I have more than a cursory knowledge of the traveler's perspective of Vienna.
Vienna is, in many ways, a closed city. By this, I mean there is not that sense of adventure being given and taken that you would find in Southern Europe, the States. etc. It works on a more subtle (and some would say, superficial) level. To the traveler, this often manifests itself as a perception that the people are rude and somewhat apathetic to your oddesean joy. Well, maybe they are a bit inward-looking, but this shouldn't hamper your joy.
To blend into the city, and to feel more warmth from the people, I recommend the following:
Learn a bit of basic German (please, where is?, etc.). People don't appreciate it when you assume they understand English (even if they are fluent). you can first ask them if they speak English, and then they will glady try.
Keep it mellow. Be mindful of the surrounding and try not to be overbearing with your voice. Vienna is a very composed city. people don't overreact or exhibit too much craziness in the street. Of course, if you want to stand and face the audience, that's your perogative.
Sorry...this sounds a bit gloomy...but this will help.
Don't expect the best service Like many places in Europe, Vienna seems to not have the same level of service as the States or the Far East. The attitude in a restaurant is quite socialist: a restaurant belongs as much to the workers as it does to the diners. So it might take you 2 tries to get your salt, or extra napkin, whatever. Just expect it and you will feel less put upon.
Okay, with that out of the way...lets get to the highlights. I'm sure you all will read some travel books so ill be short and to the point.
Architecture and museums and parks:
Read the books. My favorite is the Belvedere for the artwork. The Schloss Schoenbrunn has the best palace grounds but the interior is not as impressive as the Belvedere. Honestly, I cant step into another palace for about a year.
My favorite place in Vienna is the Central Cemetary or Zentralfriedhof. More specifically, it is the old Jewish section. If you ever get the chance to go in the spring or fall, do it. It is very eerie and tragic and yet subtlely beautiful and peaceful. Moss grows over old tombtones with long soft grass. The trees rustle quietly. All the dates end in the 1930s.
Take a long bike ride or run up the Danube (Donau) in the direction of Klosterneuberg. you will get a glimpse of the river culture of Vienna: little cottages, men and women fishing, the occasional naked sunbather, the city people working out.
In the summer, go to the public swimming places at Shafsberg, Krapfenwaldbad, or, for a more urban experience, Stadiumbad. There is plenty for kids to do...and, of course, they blow any American public swimming pool out of the water in terms of cleanliness, facilities, alcohol...all the good stuff!
Food:
Go to a traditional Viennese restaurant. I recommend Öbl, Cafe Neue Wien and load up on that lovely comfort food...but don't miss out on the outstanding Italian food that Vienna has to offer. You can skip anything Asian, with the possible exception of sushi. The Chinese food in Vienna is horrible by American standards, let alone Chinese. A great vegetarian restaurant in the 1st District is called Wranck.
The bread and dairy products are amazing in Austria. The desserts are outstanding. Eat as much of them as you can. Go to the Naschmarkt (open air farmers market) and witness the splendor of a half-kilomter spread where you can eat pickles, cheese, wine...mmmmmm.
Nightlife: (or partying)
The Bermuda Triangle, Vienna's central drinking area, leaves much to be desired. Its not upscale, but instead caters to the very young and the very touristy. Of course, if you like "normal bars" this area is your best bet. If you want to slam tequilas with a couple of Formula 1 fans from Holland then you may be in luck. The music sucks as well -- top 40.
Better choices are the myriad of cocktail bars that are in the First District (Loos Bar, Marquez, Porgy and Bess, Castillo) these are nicely laid out and have a cool ambience to them.
Vienna has a decent dance scene late at night (Kruder and Dorfmeister are the electronic music godheads...or were a few years ago). Dont miss Flex on a monday night. This club has the best sound of any I've been in. You can actually talk to someone on the dance floor and your body is vibrating. There is no mid-range distortion. Check out Pavillion in the Volksgarten during the summer months. Its a retro-style (Howard-Johnsonny) cafe with djs at night. Its a place where all the people check out eachother in the summer months....lotsa smoke in the air.
Check out www.oe4.at for club events (not a promo, i swear)
Hotels:
I can recommend one place, the Konig von Ungarn. Its amazing for the price (100 bucks a night or so). Try to request a suite (the red one). It has 2 floors, great bathrooms. I put my parents up there and they loved it. And its right in the center of town. Sorry, I dont know about cheaper accomodations.
Okay, thats it for my first epinion offering. I hope it helps.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
bureau2020
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Reviews written: 3
Trusted by: 0 members
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