Not entirely unworthy of a visit
Written: Jan 30 '02 (Updated Feb 10 '02)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Very clean
Cons: Too many to list here: see review
The Bottom Line: As European destinations go, Vienna is found towards the bottom of the list. It is a good place to go after you have seen everything else.
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| verbatima's Full Review: Vienna |
I lived in Vienna for a month when I was 13. I thought it was boring and provincial. I revisited twelve years later with an open mind -- and I was disappointed again.
Looking at Vienna today, it was difficult to imagine the hustle-and-bustle that it was when it claimed its title as the music capital of Europe in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, or as the nerve center of a mighty and powerful empire less than a century ago.
Nowadays, despite the crowds of tourists and the great trans-Europe mobility, Vienna has the feel of a small town, where little is happening and where everyone knows everyone else. Not that anything is wrong with small towns -- unless the one we are talking about is desperately trying to be a big city.
I guess that I did not like Vienna for the same reasons that I did not like Washington, D.C. -- they are both sterile, though each in its own way. (It is, of course, my personal perception, as I am aware that many people love Washington, D.C.) Vienna has sprawling palaces, enormous squares, wide avenues, stately architecture -- it does throw around a lot of weight in the effort to be a big dot on the map. But none of it seems genuine -- the city has no soul, no magic. Vienna is not the kind of city where one would be inclined to write a book, paint a picture, fall in love; the city is too pinched about its haunches, too steeped in official-looking imperial art, too committed to utilitarianism and frugality, too subdued by its straight lines and right angles to inspire such deviant behaviors.
On my second visit, I went back to the neighborhood where I lodged with my family when I was a little girl. Nothing changed over the period of twelve years. Buildings and doorways had been repainted, I suppose, but in the same colors as I had seen then. Walk down the passageway, turn left, and then: Billa Supermarket, jewelry store further down the street, then a pharmacy, then a smoke shop and so on. One would expect seeing everything unchanged to be endearing, but it was not. If anything, the lack of change indicates to me a kind of cultural, emotional, and economic constipation which frequently characterizes Vienna.
Vienna may have had a glorious history, but presently it has little by way of culture and authenticity. It does not really draw artistic and literary talent; cultural events of international scope are few and far in between.
I saw a review charging that the Viennese are rude. I wouldn't go so far as to call them rude, but they are not friendly either. Mostly, they are cold and distant, and exhibit certain behavioral patterns to which I simply cannot relate. Their manner is not per se insulting -- it just makes one wish that these people would lighten up a little and loosen up a bit.
I never warmed up to the custom of ordinary cafe waiters wearing three-piece suits in 90-degree heat and clicking their heels together before taking orders. Another thing beyond comprehension was an elderly bathroom attendant in a country dress who diligently guarded the door of the stall while I was in it, then walked over to the faucet behind me and watched intently as I was washing my hands, then walked over to the dryer behind me and watched intently as I was drying my hands. For all the heat they take from hypersensitive tourists, I much prefer dealing with Parisian waiters; they may be brusque and edgy at lunch hour, but at least they are not weird like that.
And by the way, restaurant food is horrid, even in the most prestigious and highly acclaimed restaurants. The Imperial is awful. As for Austrian cuisine, I was not impressed with the Weiner schnitzel, but sausage-and-saurkraut is edible. Sandwich stands are pretty decent, though. So you are best off eating sandwiches. In any event, I thought that the service could certainly be a bit more welcoming.
The one thing that does make Vienna attractive is its cleanliness. Indeed, the city is as clean as an operating room. I know that it weighs heavily with some people; I guess the question is whether you want to spend thousands of dollars and precious vacation days on a place that's merely clean.
My overall suggestion is to buy a map and a good guide book; make a list of all major attractions; and plan your visit rigidly and in advance of arrival. Don't stay too long; three days should be more than enough. Go to Prague afterwards.
Recommended:
No
Best Suited For: Families
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
verbatima
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Location: Jersey City, NJ
Reviews written: 74
Trusted by: 47 members
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"[If] I had six minutes to live, I'd type a little faster." Isaac Asimov
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