Brussels - Parks, gardens and woods in the center of Europe.
Written: Oct 18 '00 (Updated Feb 06 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Laid back atmosphere, friendly people, great food, high standards of living.
Cons: The weather can be pretty cold and humid.
The Bottom Line: If ever going to Brussels, do not hesitate to go off the beaten tourist tracks. This is were Brussels is most enjoyable.
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| tongareva's Full Review: Brussels |
Review Topic: Brussels is a city that needs to be explored. It is not like one of the normal tourist places where everything is offered to you at once. Instead, Brussels seems to be charm less at first glance. But if you are willing to discover something different with nice people and great food, you should definitely be thinking of planning a trip to Brussels.
Having lived there, I have learned to appreciate a city that has a lot to offer.
First of all, you should know that Brussels, apart from being the Belgian capital, also hosts the European institutions. Belgium is a federal country divided in several different political entities which are not always easy to understand. There are three different regions: The Flemish region in the North, the Walloon region in the South, and the Brussels Capital region in the center. Each of which function independently with its own regional government. The country is also composed of 10 provinces and there are also three different communities representing the different languages spoken in the country: the Flemish (Dutch) community, the French community, and the German community. Each of them managing its interests with its own government as well! To make it even more complex, there is also a federal government running the most important ministries. Brussels is thus a busy administrative central place.
The Brussels Capital region is divided in 19 communes (districts) among which Brussels city is only a small part. Usually, tourists just visit the center of Brussels, meaning that they miss out on a lot of other things to see and do. Here is what I recommend visiting outside of downtown Brussels:
While you are there, and after having visited the usual downtown tourist places that are largely described in all travel books, try to head for the suburban neighbourhoods. Renting a car would be a great idea as the Brussels Capital region is rather large. Public transportation is extensive but there is nothing like a car to be able to stop whenever you want to and visit places at your own pace. Brussels is not like Paris or any other large city in Europe in terms of traffic. You can still easily find your way around without getting blocked in huge traffic jams. However, driving in Belgium is more aggressive than what Americans are used to, so be prepared...
You will soon notice that Brussels is a ‘green’ city. There are a numerous number of parks, woods and gardens. In fact, one quarter of the total region area is allocated to forests and parks.
The most famous park is probably Le Bois de la Cambre located at the end of Avenue Louise. You should go there during a week-end as the park is then closed to traffic. Locals ride bikes, skate, roller blade, or just walk around. You can also rent a rowing boat or a pedal boat at the lake in the middle of the park. The park is pretty big (123 hectares) and is considered as a ‘lung’ for the city. But actually, what you see of the park is only a small part of ‘La forêt de Soigne’, a giant wood that literally encircles the Southern districts of Brussels. The wood is also open to the public and is a popular place for horse riding, mountain biking and nature discovering.
Just outside the Bois de la Cambre, on rue du Vert Chasseur, is a very nice little restaurant that I particularly recommend. It is called ‘La Pomme de Pin’ and serve Belgian specialties along with some of the best pizzas in Brussels. It’s always better to book in advance: the place is usually packed.
If you are a night owl, the best night life experience on a Thursday, Friday, or Saturday night is to go to the Jeux d’Hiver disco bar right in the middle of the first section of Le Bois de la Cambre. People dance outside in the gardens as much as inside (weather permitting). The crowd is young and there are some chances you run into a celebrity as the place is famous in Belgium. There is no entrance fee, you just tip the doorman when you leave.
Near Le Bois de la Cambre is the abbey of La Cambre. Once a religious place run by monks, the buildings are today sheltering the Brussels School of Geography. It’s a very charming area worth talking a walk to. The surrounding neighbourhoods are also of some interest. On one side you will find two charming ponds circled by some nice late 19th century houses. On the other side you have the beginning of Avenue Franklin Roosevelt, also called Avenue des Nations. Many embassies have chosen to settle here in some of Brussels most prestigious and valuable piece of properties.
Another nice spot of nature in the city is the Park de Woluwe. Linked to the Park du Cinquantenaire by the Avenue de Tervuren, the Park de Woluwe is one of the largest in the region. It can be found on the angle of the Boulevard du Souverain and the Avenue de Tervuren. This remarkable park in the style of an English landscaped garden offers panoramic views and broad expanses of lawns. Narrow trails and paths criss-cross their way through the park and around its three artificial ponds and its 80 varieties of trees and bushes, including magnificent and rare examples such as the giant Sequoia. Ducks, swans, gulls and other aquatic birds, both indigenous and migratory, populate the extensive waterways.
To get to the Park de Woluwe from the city center, you will need to cross the European Union district on Avenue Belliard (coming from the King’s Palace) and continue on Avenue de Tervuren (one of the most beautiful boulevard in Brussels). The Avenue de Tervuren was designed in the mid 19th century by King Leopold II. It is a typical last-century Avenue with art deco buildings and centennial chestnut trees. The Avenue links the Park du Cinquantenaire to the Royal African Museum in the town of Tervuren at about 7 miles South of Brussels.
The Park du Cinquantenaire is one of the largest architectural and cultural complexes in Europe. It was also designed by King Leopold II himself in the late 1800’s The park is laid out following classical park designs - symmetrical layout of flower beds and lawns, rows of trees with thick trunks. In order to celebrate in style the 50th anniversary of the birth of Belgium, the city of Brussels decided to build an exhibition on the former site of the army’s parade ground. It takes the form of a Monumental arch, flanked by two wings and joined by an imposing semi-circular colonnade. It truly has a unifying effect, linking the end of the Rue de la Loi and the Avenue de Tervuren. The wings today house museums holding permanent collections as well as prestigious exhibitions. The Park du Cinquantenaire also serves as the departure point and finishing line for large sporting events such as the 20 km race and the Brussels marathon.
The Art and History Museum, the Army and Military History Museum, the Royal Institute of Artistical Patrimony and the Autoworld Museum with one of the most complete and richest automobile collection in Europe are a must for visitors to the Park du Cinquantenaire. You can also head down the nearby Avenue de Tervuren for a stroll.
On Avenue de Tervuren, take your time to look at the Palais Stocklet. This masterpiece in geometry was built in the early 20th century by an Austrian architect named Josef Hoffmann. It is said to be one of the most beautiful private buildings in the world. Further down the Avenue you will find the Tramway Museum which is worth making a stop if you are interested in old urban transports. If you plan to visit the city in the summer, you may be lucky enough to ride on an old tramway from the late 19th century. The open-air tram rides from the upper Avenue de Tervuren to the Royal African Museum crossing the forest.
The Musée Royal de l’Afrique Centrale is Belgium’s monument to its colonial glories in the Congo (former Zaire), and the Belgian pioneers who ‘opened up’ the Dark Continent. In a setting worthy of a royal country retreat, which it once was, the main building is a stunning piece of architecture in the grandiose style that went down well in 1910, with a superb, naturally lit rotunda as an entrance foyer. Since Zaire’s independence in 1960, the exhibitions have broadened to include much of the rest of Africa and aspects of ethnography on a global scale. The exhibition halls feature modern African sculpture, as well as crafts, archaeology, wildlife, and environmental and development issues such as the problem of desertification.
Back outside, you can wander around the gardens and ornamental pools. A few minutes walk along Keizerinnedreef brings you to a little waterside café. In good weather it’s nice to sit on the terrace and nurse a Kriek (a cherry-based beer) or a glass of wine. Plan to spend at least an afternoon in the museum and the parks around.
At the northern tip of the city lies the Park de l’Atomium. Most cities have an identifying symbol: Paris has the Eiffel Tower, London has Big Ben, and New York the Statue of Liberty. Brussels built one in 1958 for the World Expo hosted by the city. The result was the Atomium, as fabulous in its way as the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty, and just about as useless. It is built from nine spheres that combine to represent the atomic structure of iron. It looks like a set straight out of Star Wars, you probably will never see anything quite like it again, so bring a roll of film.
It’s easy to spend a whole day in that area of town as there is a lot to see and do. Should there be an interesting exhibition at the Park des Expositions such as the car show, you may already spend half a day. There is also a good Planetarium beside the Heysel Football Stadium, just outside the park on Avenue de Bouchout. Next, you might want to go for a beach party in the Océade (bring a swim wear). This is one of those aquatic paradise places with giant flumes, wave machines, palm trees, sand beaches, and poolside bars. It’s a lot of fun especially during the winter months. Mini Europe, a theme-park that’s as popular with tourists as with the locals is close to the Océade. Some of the finest European architectural and engineering creations are presented with realism, but at 1:25 scale. Each of the 15 European Union countries is represented, and it’s fascinating. Don’t be surprised if two hours slip past in Mini-Europe without you realizing. At the end of the day, you may want to have dinner at the restaurant atop the Atomium with a breathless view over Brussels or head for the Kinepolis, which calls itself the biggest cinema complex in the world with its 29 theatres. All films are shown in their original languages, and most are American.
Brussels is often said to lack an identity, but the truth is that it has too many different identities. Yet behind some bruised or bureaucratic facades hides an understated city full of underrated charms where visitors are encouraged to look beyond the clichés of beer, lace and chocolate. Essentially, Brussels is a city of curious quarters and atmospheric trails rather than a city of specific sights.
It is a sophisticated, elegant city to be discovered mainly because of its laid back provincial atmosphere. Do not try to compare it with foreign neighbouring cities like Paris or Amsterdam: Brussels is unique! It’s a fabulous city to live in with a high standard of living. People are authentic and very friendly and food is just marvelous! Probably the best and most diverse in the world. It’s impossible to have a bad meal in Belgium.
I would recommend staying a minimum of 5 days in Brussels to really feel the place, meet its friendly inhabitants and explore, off the beaten tracks, Europe’s best kept secret.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
tongareva
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Location: Born and raised in Europe, but citizen of the world.
Reviews written: 13
Trusted by: 9 members
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