Firstly I should point out that I live in London. Now whilst this doesn't mean I'm omnipotent about all things related to London, it does mean that I know where to shop. There are two streets which house most of my favorites - Jermyn Street and the famous Saville Row. Other areas of shopping extravagance include Knightsbridge where you can find "Horrids" (AKA Harrods) and Harvey Nichols, and Old Bond street where all the designer houses congregate.
Jermyn Street
Paxton and Whitfields is a superb cheesemongers found on this street that is more famous for bespoke shirts. Their selection is huge, English stilton in huge china pots, mature Cheddar, goats cheeses and a wide collection of foreign cheeses. The shop has a lovely strong aroma of their wares, and they supply cheese to the QEII and every other member of the Royal Family. A large pot of Stilton is a must have for any visitor, the pot looks good on the kitchen shelf, and it goes for about £20. Some good English Cheddar is another wise purchase if for no other reason than to remind you how plastic supermarket Cheddar is.
Fortnum and Mason
This department store goes up about 6 floors, and you can find everything you want from clothing to toys. The toys are well worth looking at as they have some great old fashioned toys for boys that have never grown up. When I was last there they had a steam train that worked with actual steam, and a cabinet full of old lead soldiers, Grenadiers, Lancers, Highlanders, Cavalry and red coated foot soldiers can all be found. There is also a great cooking department in the basement where you can stroke some toys that would look great in your kitchen. The basement also holds the Hamper department where you need to go to pick up supplies for Royal Ascot, Henley Royal Regatta or the Veuve Cliquot Polo cup at Cowdray Park, keeping your strength up when indulging in a spot of social snobbery.
The main attraction of Fortnum and Mason however is there superb food hall. It may not be as large as Horrids or Selfridges, but how often has quantity equaled quality? The food hall oozes splendor from every pore, key buys being the Tea and Jams that are as English as rain, shooting people and taking their countries, or being bad at Cricket. Still conquering 1/4 of the globe does have its advantages; the Tea at F&M being one of them. Whilst you're there you may want to pop downstairs to buy a Tea pot so you can make it properly out of loose tea; instead of the pathetic attempts I see round the world involving somebody waving a tea bag in the general direction of a mug full of hot water. The best tea you can pick up is English or Irish breakfast (Irish has a stronger flavour, I usually use 1/3rd Irish, 2/3rds English), and there are the flavoured teas which I can't stand (Especially Earl Grey - see my Vilnius review). The Mustard of F&M is also worth an honourable mention, because unlike the wimpy Continental / US mustards that bring out the delicate flavours of food, English mustard gives you a nose bleed - Gunpowder mustard in particular is guaranteed to unblock even the toughest nasal congestion. Other little gems include Lemon Curd, Baked Cobra snake in tins, and Scorpions covered in chocolate. Basically any food you pick up in this shop will be the best you can find anywhere in the world.
You can also find Church's on Jermyn street for handmade shoes, again you get what you pay for; and if you treat these shoes with love, they'll last a long time. Crombie is another famous name where you can pick up one of those jackets you see in Lock Stock and 2 Smoking Barrels and Snatch. They are well made even if you do look like an East End gangster, don't expect change from £500. Taylors of Old Bond street is a great place to get a cut throat shave. There are also numerous perfumeries like Fleur for the ladies. I'm pretty sure they do smellies for the Queen but unsurprisingly I've never been in there. You can also find Hackett on this street (More later).
Just down the road on Jermyn Street you find 'Turnbull and Asser', shirtmaker to HRH The Prince of Wales. In this great little shop are found the best shirts and ties that it is possible to find. I recommend the "French Cuff" i.e. a cuff that folds back like on a dinner jacket/ Tuxedo shirt and is worn with Brass Collar stiffeners and Cuff Links. Yes it is old fashioned, but it looks a world better than a button-down. The off the peg shirts are about £80.00 so unsurprisingly I go in the Sales to get a couple of new shirts. They don't really wear out though so they're worth the money even at full price. Finally there is Davodoff on the corner where you can pick up your Cuban cigars (If you're nice they'll take the wrappers off and put them in an unmarked tubes for getting them past US customs).
Saville Row
The most prestigious address in the world if you happen to be a Tailor (The Japanese word for a suit is Saville Row), the East side is marked by the "Young upstarts" such as Ozwald Boetang (who counts Keanu Reeves and Lauwrence Fishburn amongst his Hollywood star clients) and Duffer of St George making cutting edge suits. The Westside marked by Tailors who have outfitted Royalty and Generals for generations. You can also find Issaye Miyake for women, you'll be able to tell because they have about 10 garments in a store that could house thousands. Why they would do that is blatantly obvious, one blouse sale will pay their rent for a week. I prefer the old school and you find its spiritual home in Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman.
Gieves & Hawkes is my personal favorite because they have some great casual wear as well as the Suits that are world famous. You can either buy off the peg or bespoke, an off the peg suit from Gieves costs around £450-600 and is probably the best bet if you're visiting the UK, they are superb suits. Bespoke is a whole different ballgame and unless you own the airline you flew over on you won't be able to afford this service. A bespoke suit costs from around £2000 and involves a minimum of 3 fittings spaced out over 1 month. They will ask you everything from what side you dangle on to what you've eaten in the last week prior to the fitting. If Sir wants the statue of Liberty hand stitched into the lining of the jacket, then Sir will jolly well get it. The suit will feel like an extension to your skin but thankfully not look like it, you'll look like the million dollars that will have to be your annual salary.
Another great shop in Saville Row is Hackett. Their slogan is "Essential British kit" and they're not wrong. But your tweed trousers and Prince of Wales Check from these boys and you're set for a spot of shooting in the country. The average Brit goes to Gap and Nike like everybody else for stuff you wear at home, but its always nice to have a couple of Hackett Jumpers (Sweaters) and polo shirts for when scruff order simply isn't on! Unlike Ralph Lauren with his Ersatz English polo clobber, these guys walk the walk. They provide kit for the England Rugby team and the Guards Polo team, so if you're hob-nobbing in those circles then you'll be perfectly Camouflaged.
For the ladies, the best place to go is Old Bond street, you find DKNY, Prada, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Christian Dior et all. Old bond street is also the home of Bling Bling where you'll find Bvlgari and others selling jewelry timepieces that cost the same amount as a 3rd world's nations debt. Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge (as made famous by Patsy and Eddie in Ab Fab) is also a good bet for ladies, opposite Burberry.
Recommended: Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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