St. John's Wood: Radiohead, Liam Gallagher, Kate Moss and Me
Written: Dec 19 '00 (Updated Jun 07 '01)
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Pros: Few tourists, beautiful houses and parks, excellent pubs.
Cons: Very expensive, unless you're just looking.
The Bottom Line: Escape the tourist traps and see how the Upper Crust Londoners live, visit Abbey Road studios and Regent's Park.
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| Nathanael73's Full Review: London |
I lived in London from August 1997 through to July 1998. I had visited London at least five times before living there, usually for two or three days at a time, and I must stress that being a resident rather than a visitor gives one an entirely different perspective on the city.
My first job and home in London was in St. John's Wood at a pub called The Ordnance on Ordnance Hill Road. St. John's Wood is an expensive residential area in London's inner north, about two miles north of Oxford Street. Despite the name, St. John's Wood has neither woods nor saints. Many famous people make their home there, such as former PM John Major, supermodel Kate Moss, Oasis bad-boy Liam Gallagher, an Arab Prince, and ex-Pretender Chrissie Hynde. My job as a bartender allowed me to live in a room above the pub rent-free, as well as providing me with free meals and an income. Without the pub job there is no way I could have been able to afford to live in such a posh neighborhood. Houses in St. John's Wood sell for as much as 25 Million Pounds.
Just two short blocks from the St. John's Wood Underground station is the famous Abbey Road Studios, where The Beatles recorded, and in front of the studios you will find the famous crosswalk featured on the cover of the Abbey Road album. The studios are still in use, and in fact while I lived in the area Radiohead were in residence recording their renowned OK Computer album. To get to Abbey Road Studios on the Underground, take the Jubilee Line to St. John's Wood. There is only one exit from the station. As you exit the station you will find yourself on the corner of a busy intersection. Turn to your right and cross Wellington Road. Walk two blocks straight ahead and you will come to Abbey Road. Turn right on to Abbey Road and you will see the studios about a hundred yards up the road on your left.
The other major attractions in St. John's Wood are Regent's Park and Lord's Cricket Ground. Regent's Park contains gardens, tennis courts, football and rugby fields, a lake, and the London Zoo. It is a wonderful place to take a walk and engage in some people watching, especially on Sundays. Most people in the area don't have backyards (or even frontyards), so they like to go to the park with their kids and/or dogs for some exercise. Lord's is known as "the home of cricket" and hosts many International and domestic matches, as well as housing an impressive cricket museum (if that’s your cup of tea).
Almost every morning during my residence in St. John's Wood I ate Breakfast at the Café Rouge on St. John's Wood High Street. For less than five pounds one can eat a wonderful meal of croissants, juice and coffee in an elegant French cafe setting while reading the morning papers. There are a number of Café Rouge locations around London. Wine, beer and spirits are also served in addition to breakfast, lunch and dinner.
On St. John's Wood High Street there are a number of restaurants, clothing boutiques, jewelry stores and newsagents. Most of these stores are ridiculously expensive, and have nothing to offer the budget traveler. At the south end of the street you will find a beautiful old cemetery with many interesting headstones and a delightful old church. You will often see elderly couples sitting on benches in the adjacent park, feeding the pigeons and watching the world go by.
On Circus Road, just west of St. John’s Wood High Street, is the St. John's Wood Library, an excellent refuge from London’s often-miserable weather. One morning I found myself sitting at a table in the library with two impeccably dressed elderly gentlemen who were perusing the Financial Times. Upon reading the latest stock prices, one said to the other, “Oh bugger it, I’m going to have to sell another Jaguar.” You can overhear such conversations or read quietly seven days a week.
If you wish to spend a night or two in the area, your best bet would be The Sheraton, sandwiched between Lord’s and Regent’s Park. It may very well be the only hotel in St. John’s Wood, and you will certainly need to make reservations in advance, as many of the rooms are permanently booked by Air Canada for their pilots and flight attendants (many of whom frequented the pub where I worked and were absolutely lovely people). If you can’t get a room at The Sheraton, there are numerous hotels just a mile south in the Baker Street area (of Sherlock Holmes fame).
St. John's Wood proved to be an excellent position from which to get intimate with London. All of London’s most famous attractions were within a 20-minute tube journey or less, and many were within walking distance. I regularly walked to Camden Town, Primrose Hill, Baker Street, Oxford Street, and Hyde Park. Not only was I in a prime location, I was also away from the hordes of tourists that flood London at all times of the year. If you are ever in London and want to escape the tourist traps and see how the Upper Crust Londoners live, I advise you to take the Jubilee Line (that’s the silver one) to St. John's Wood. While you’re there, stop in at The Ordnance and have a pint of Guinness for me.
Recommended:
Yes
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Nathanael73
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Location: Michigan
Reviews written: 85
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