Take a Walk in "Old Town"
Written: May 25 '00 (Updated Nov 20 '00)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Beautiful, thought provoking
Cons: none
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| Trawma's Full Review: Frankfurt am Main |
Review Topic: Sights & Attractions
Frankfurt's "Old Town" is a city that doesn't look its age. It looks much older. It's supposed to.
In 1945, Allied forces leveled Frankfurt. I know leveled is a strong word, but believe me when I say that very little of Frankfurt was left standing when the bombing stopped. The devastation was monumental–a city of smoking rubble was all that was left at the end of the war.
Rebuilding was painstaking, and took decades. While great care was not taken to restore the "old" feel of Frankfurt, a trip to "Old Town," where many half timbered buildings and cobbled streets remain, gives one a feel for the Frankfurt that was. The best way to see "Old Town" is to start at Römerberg Square, and slowly spread out in a large circle. While I will include information on public transportation, this is a "tour" best done on foot. I spent almost 2 weeks walking about "Old Town" a few years back. I'd like to share my favorite things.
A visit to the Historisches Museum (History Museum) in Römerberg Square is a must–a wonderful pair of scale models of Frankfurt brings the destruction home. One model shows every house and building before the bombing. The other shows what was left post 1945. The effect is stunning. The Historisches Museum is the place to go for a fascinating and in-depth look at 800+ years of Frankfurt history. Weapons and armor, art and architecture, religious displays, even a children's museum. An attentive and friendly (though not well versed in English) staff rounds out the experience, making it a worthwhile visit.
Römerberg Square proper–painstakingly restored after taking severe bomb damage during the war, Römerberg Square is really the historical heart of the city. Home to many lovely half-wood buildings, shops, taverns, and a marvelous fountain (Fountain of Justitia) that gave forth wine rather than water at the coronation of Emperor Matthias in 1612. This practice has been renewed for special occasions. Cobblestone walks and wooden benches make this a terrific place to spend an afternoon (or three). Grab a bite at one of the nearby inns or taverns, pull up a bench near the fountain, and enjoy.
Fressgasse (Pig-Out Alley)–speaking of food! The name means exactly what you think it means–this street is packed with specialty food shops, delicatessens, restaurants, and taverns. Eat in, or dine alfresco at one of the many tables on the walk.
Kuhhirtenturm (Shepherd's Tower)–the last of nine 15th century towers built as part of the old fortifications of "Old Town." Very imposing, very impressive.
Sachsenhausen, on the banks of the Main River, is the painstakingly preserved "old quarter." Home to Ebbelwei (apple-wine), the many taverns hang evergreen wreaths above their doors to announce to patrons that they have freshly pressed, highly alcoholic Ebbelwei. Wonderful traditional food is served to accompany this fine cider-like beverage. I recommend a dinner and a tankard. I also recommend that you drink this wonderful refreshment in moderation.
Alter Jüdischer Friedhof (Old Jewish Cemetery), which lies within the old Jewish Quarter near Börneplatz, is nearly all that is left of the once thriving Jewish community in Frankfurt. The victim of Nazi vandalism, it stands as a grim reminder of what was, and what should never happen again. Actively used between the 1200s–1800s, entry is not "free." To prevent further vandalism, a visit will cost you a piece of personal identification (like a passport). In return, the caretaker will give you the key. When you are finished, return to the caretaker's, where you may exchange the key for your identification. That this ritual is necessary saddened me almost as much as the cemetery itself.
Palmengarten und Botanischer Garten (Tropical Garden and Botanical Gardens) is a wonderful collection of flowers and rare plants from around the world. Set in park-like surroundings, plants are displayed both in greenhouses and more natural beds, including marsh gardens and amazing rock gardens. Plant shows, contests, and concerts are frequent happenings. The gardens sports a lovely lake with row boats for rent, a children's play area, and a wading pool.
Saint Bartholomew's "Cathedral"–not really a cathedral at all, but rather a parish church. Originally built in 822 as the Carolingian Salvator Church, the church was reconstructed when rededicated to Saint Bartholomew the Apostle in 1248. Or, more accurately, reconstruction began in 1248. The tower, which dominates the "Old Town" skyline, was finished in 1867, according to the original architect's plans. Saint Bartholomew's is home to a fascinating museum of Catholicism in Germany, and holds wonderful displays of priestly garments, religious items, and a rather gruesome reliquary purportedly containing the top of Saint Bartholomew's skull. Also of interest are the alter stones, which are actually the grave markers of notable religious figures.
Saint Bartholomew's holds the distinction of being one of the few "old" buildings to survive the mass bombings of WWII relatively intact. The cathedral held while Frankfurt crumbled around it. For a small idea of the great devastation that surrounded Saint Bartholomew's, visit this pic: http://www.altfrankfurt.com/Spezial/Krieg/Altstadt/DomWest/AlterMarkt/AlterMarkt1945.htm
Being, as I am, a "churchophile," here's a list of the other Frankfurt churches I visited, and a small bit about each. If you have the time and the inclination, I highly recommend visiting the lovely churches of Frankfurt.
Leonhardskirche (St. Leonard's Church)–a beautiful, well preserved 13th century church with some truly amazing stained glass.
Katharinenkirche (St. Catherine's Church)–the first independent, gothic style Protestant church built in Frankfurt, it was home to the first Protestant sermon preached here. Houses some lovely post-war stained glass.
Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady)–14th century late gothic church, home to some breathtaking rococo wood carvings, a well preserved tympanum relief, and an ornate rococo fountain outside.
This is only a taste of what Frankfurt's "Old Town" has to offer. Art museums, a museum dedicated to sculpture, zoological gardens, remnants of the old walls built in the 12th century, the homes of famous poets and authors–all are within a stone's throw of the heart of "Old Town." If you have a trip to Germany coming up, please, go to Frankfurt, and visit "Old Town." It will be well worth it.
Ah–and don't forget to grab a loaf of bread and sit on the banks of the Main–the ducks, swans, and other birds will fast become your best friends.
Note–transportation in Frankfurt is fabulous. They have a well integrated public transportation system of subway, train, and street car. Anywhere you want to go, there's likely a station within a block or two. Public transit "passes" are reasonably priced, with a "Frankfurt Card" going for around $6.50 for 2 days of unlimited public transport within the city. Included in the price is half-off admission to 15 museums located within Frankfurt–a heck of a deal.
Recommended:
Yes
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