Italy's Cinque Terre May Be the Most Beautiful Place on Earth
Written: Jul 10 '04 (Updated Feb 04 '05)
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Pros: Beautiful meeting of rugged land, sea and picturesque villages. Great regional food. No cars!
Cons: Overrun with tourists in season. Getting around can be confusing.
The Bottom Line: For its natural beauty, great food and wine, picturesque villages, beach and sea activities, Cinque Terre is a must for lovers of the outdoors. But be ready for crowds.
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| jsquarejj's Full Review: Cinque Terre |
The Cinque Terre (Five Lands) is a tiny, isolated region of the Ligurian Riviera set along the rugged coastline between La Spezia and Genoa. It’s a place where steep terraced cliffs meet the sea, and five beautiful little towns connected only by railroad and footpaths cling precariously to their ravines and cliffs. Life here centers around grapes, olives, and of course, beach oriented tourism.
Because of its natural beauty and historic interest, this whole region has been designated a national park, and the United Nations has declared it part of the “patrimony of mankind.”
Frankly, it’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited.
Who Should Go... and Who Should Stay Away
The attraction here is nature and how people fit human activity into a challenging landscape. Come here if you love the ocean, rugged landscapes, swimming, hiking, boating, diving, or just getting away from it all (except people). Expect a very casual experience with droves of people in bathing suits, shorts and hiking boots. Be ready to walk, as cars are not allowed within the towns where taxis and buses are rare.
Don’t come here if you’re into churches, museums, fine dining (although it is available), serious night life or other big city amenities, or driving to your hotel. Also don’t come here if you hate tourist throngs: this area is completely overrun with people--way too many people--in season.
Orientation
From southeast (toward La Spezia) to northwest (toward Genoa), the five towns are Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare. They’re all right on the coat of the Ligurian Sea (part of the Mediterranean).
The towns are accessible with difficulty by car, but rail, water taxis and scheduled excursion boats are better options (boats operate only weather permitting). Corniglia is not accessible by boat. Each town, except Corniglia, has a little harbor which is the center of boating activity as well as swimming and sunbathing, and each town has one or more beaches, ranging from tiny and rocky to fairly large and sandy. What we Americans generally call a beach is most readily available at Monterosso.
Getting There and Getting Around
The Cinque Terre is a very isolated region most easily accessible by train from Genoa to the northwest or La Spezia to the southeast. It’s also very easy to get there from Pisa by way of La Spezia, and even from Firenze by way of Pisa. You can make connections all the way to or from Rome by way of either Pisa or Firenze a few times a day.
It is possible to get to each of the towns by car, but only by some very winding roads and only to park at varying distances from your final destination. Monterosso has a pretty large parking lot right on the beach in the new town. In the high season, you will probably not be able to find a parking space unless you arrive very early. To avoid disappointment, I suggest you park you car at the train station in La Spezia and take the train into the Cinqueterre. It costs just a few euros.
Getting Around Once You’re There
Within the five towns, there is fairly regular train service about every hour. Unfortunately, the train system can be a bit confusing because it’s hard to tell the difference between the local trains that stop at all or most all of the towns and the regional trains that stop at one or two towns and then head toward La Spezia or Genoa. Check the schedule and/or monitors carefully, ask at the information office, or talk to more experienced travelers before getting on a train. Know whether you are going “per La Spezia” (toward La Spezia) or “per Genoa” (toward Genoa).
The stations and trains can get very crowded, making the purchase of individual tickets quite trying. To avoid this, try buying one of the Cinqueterre Cards, which give you unlimited train travel within the region. Be sure to validate it in one of the yellow machines at the train station before your first ride. Each train station has an office that sells these cards.
Another way to get around is by boat, weather and season permitting. Both little water taxis and large excursion boats serve all the towns except Corniglia. A one-town hop in either type of boat costs about 3 euro. The large excursion boats maintain a schedule, and you’ll be riding with a big crowd. Water taxis carry about 10 people, go back and forth as soon as they fill up, and are generally more exciting because they’re quite small and open.
Finally, there’s a system of trails connecting all the towns. The trails between Riomaggiore, Manarola and Corniglia are relatively easy. Corniglia to Vernazza is a big step up in difficulty, and Vernazza to Monterosso is a long, and in parts truly dangerous trek. You should have good shoes, water and snacks before you tackle any of the trails.
Lodging
Most people find accommodation in one of the small hotels or bed and breakfast establishments found throughout each of the Cinque Terre towns. You’ll find recommendations in guide books like Rick Steves’ Italy, Frommers Italy, and many others. Also consult the web at www.cinqueterre.it , www.monterossonet.com , etc. Many of the B&Bs are so small that they barely have a web presence, but you can often ferret them out by asking for recommendations from establishments that are already full.
Based on my experience, popular locations fill up well in advance from June through September, so you’ll need to book six months to a year ahead to guarantee availability. Due to Rick Steves, Vernazza has become way too popular. On the other hand, we found a spectacular B&B on a quiet narrow street in Monterosso’s old town within a month of our travel date (the somewhat higher than average price may explain availability).
Very few places can be reserved directly on the internet. Mostly, you have to make an email inquiry for the dates you’re interested in. If you don’t receive a prompt reply, assume they’re booked. Otherwise they will respond with availability information (not to be confused with a confirmed reservation), and you need to email again to accept their offer. After that, you should get back an actual confirmation.
Because of the prohibition on cars in these towns, the location of train stations, and the possible need to climb many steep flights of stairs, knowing the exact location of your lodging and its relation to the train station or perimeter parking lot is essential. Know how you plan to arrive, and ask how to get to the lodging. Realize that Monterosso, the largest and most resort-like town seems to have about two taxis.
Recommended Restaurants
Ristorante Miki, just across from the beach in Monterosso’s new town, is a sophisticated family run restaurant featuring fresh fish and seafood, pasta, fine wines, and homemade desserts. Expect to pay a little more but get a lot more in terms of quality and service. The “seafood soup” is their signature dish. There are a few tables out front, a main dining room and an enclosed garden courtyard. Make an early reservation to avoid the craziness that starts around 8:00 pm.
La Cambusa, on the Via Roma in Monterosso’s old town, is a more down home version of Miki. It serves many similar dishes and a large assortment of wines. Although the level of sophistication is lower, tending toward home cooking, the food is delicious. Compare La Cambusa’s Onda Marina to Miki’s seafood soup. While Miki has just a few outdoor tables, La Cambusa has many, so you can enjoy your meal and the passing multitudes on the via Roma. Prices are a bit lower than Miki.
Il Gambero Rosso, on the harbor in Vernazza, has plenty of outside tables with beach and harbor views. Again, it serves many of the same seafood and pasta dishes available throughout the region, but its trofie in pesto are to die for.
Most restaurants in this region are open for lunch, close around 2:00 or 3:00 pm, then open again around 7:00 or 7:30 pm for dinner. Expect a cover charge (“coperto”) of about 2 euro per person. If you want wine, but don’t want to spend a fortune, order a half liter of the “vino de la casa” (rosso or bianco according to taste). This will cost about 5 to 8 euro, where the least expensive bottle will be about 10 euro.
What about tipping? According to the travel guides, some restaurants include a service charge and others don’t. They say you should leave a small tip when service is not included. In reality, restaurants are making it nearly impossible to tell whether or not such a charge is included. Based on my observation that Italians themselves seem never to tip, I leave a small amount (5%) only if the service has been exceptional or I’ve lingered over the table.
You can thank the current administration's "weak dollar" policy for the cost of travel in Italy. Several years ago, a 60 euro dinner cost only $50. Today (July 2004), that same 60 euro meal costs $75, a 50% increase.
Useful Links
For lots more information on the Cinque Terre, check out Rick Steves’s Italy.
First trip to Europe? Need to brush up your travel skills? Then, try Steves’s Europe Through the Back Door.
Save money on your European vacation:
-- Use this credit card to save 2% to 3% on your foreign transactions.
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-- Here's everything you need to know about dealing with money, credit/debit/check cards, traveler's checks, etc. on your European vacation.
To read about a few more places that split my vote for “Most Beautiful Place on Earth,” check out:
Switzerland’s Switzerland's Jungfrau Massif: Climb to the Top of Europe
The Zugspitze: Germany's Highest Peak
South Lake Tahoe’s Heavenly Gondola
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Jun - Aug
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jsquarejj
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Member: Jim J
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Reviews written: 190
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About Me:
#7 in Personal Finance, #14 in Travel. My goal? Saving you money.
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