FLORENCE, A Grand Historic City & our Little Ol' Hotel.
Written: Feb 16 '03 (Updated Aug 07 '09)
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Pros: The art center of the Western World. Most everything can be walked to.
Cons: Very busy city
The Bottom Line: Florence has so much to offer. Try to have the time to take it all in.
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| popsrocks's Full Review: Florence |
GETTING AROUND
My wife and I were traveling in a car we rented on our last day in Rome. From Rome we drove through, and stayed in, some of the towns of Tuscany. For the most part it was quite quiet and tranquil. This was especially so after spending nearly a week in busy Rome. As we entered the city of Florence we once again encountered much traffic. The first thing we did was return the car to the rental place. This was near the train terminal which is on the outskirts of the city. If you do come in by train you may still have to take a cab to your hotel. There are many right nearby. We took a cab ride to our hotel that was right on the River Arno.
WHERE WE STAYED
We stayed at a little place called the Hotel Hermitage. I would highly recommend this place just for its location alone. From the hotel it was just a stones throw to the Ponti Vecchio, built in 1345. This is the famous bridge that has gold jewelers from end to end. It is quite an experience going from vendor to vendor seeing the exquisite works of gold and comparing prices.
We also enjoyed the Hermitage because of it's simplicity and rooftop terrace. From there we overlooked the river with its beautiful reflections in the early morning sun. In the other direction we could see the imposing Duomo, the worlds fourth largest church. Also visible from the garden terrace is the Palazzo Vecchio and many other grand sites. With all the flowers in the planters and the rooftop bar service it was a perfectly relaxing place to be. One evening my wife and I sat out there and met some people from the US. We talked a bit and then they went off to dinner and some sightseeing. Hours later they returned. We were still on the rooftop! As my wife and I, just today, are still trying to complete our photo album of this vacation we are putting in a picture of her and three other teachers that all met on the garden terrace that evening. None of us knew each other but by the end of the evening we were having a wonderful time in each others company.
Our room was not all that large but it was comfortable enough for us. We like to have king or queen beds but they are hard to find in smaller hotels. The bed was comfortable enough and we were staying just a few days. The room was air conditioned. It does get hot in Florence in the summer. We were there in late June and July. The bath and room were very clean and comfortable. They did have a hair dryer in the bath.
The hotel has windows out to the river Arno. We had one of those rooms. With the view you also get the sound of the early morning scooters that plague the city. If you needed a quiet room ask to be in the back over looking the garden area. In the evening I enjoyed looking down and seeing all the locals and tourists that would just hang out along the banks of the Arno. There is a wonderful Gelato vendor just outside the doors of the hotel. Many people could be seen enjoying this special Italian ice cream treat while just hanging out. If you have never tried the stuff you are in for a wonderful surprise.
One note about the hotel. It is not handicapped friendly in that you must climb a flight of stairs to the elevator. The lobby and reception area is up on one of the top floors. I never asked but I wonder if the elevator may be up a flight due to occasional flooding of the river.
On the last floor they have a "living" room. It's a wonderful place to have breakfast, though many did take their coffee etc up to the terrace. Don't leave any food unattended. Birds are waiting in hiding for an opportunity for a free meal. In the evening the fireplace may be on in the living room as they call it. It also has a bar. The help were very friendly and helpful here.
The prices were a little less than two hundred dollars a night. For its location this is well worth it. In fact it's a bargain as far as I'm concerned. Another note is that there is but one small elevator. Take the stairs down or up to lower rooms, otherwise you may have to wait a while.
LOCATION
Once we are out of the building we could walk just steps to the Ponte Vecchio. I did enjoy the throngs of people in the area. This is the crossroads of Florence. There is so much to see just a few steps from either side of the bridge.
We were just around the corner from the Uffizi and Pitti Museums! Do be sure to get tickets to get into these places before you get to the city. We had the concierge at our hotel in Rome, The Cavelieri, reserve them. We would book something in the morning everyday and just be loose in our schedule the rest of the day. If you do not have reservations you may get shut out. You must find out the schedule of places you would like to experience. Opening and closing days and hours vary.
THE UFFIZI
We went through the Galleria delgi Uffizi. I suggest you rent the tape players that can give you so much information and history of the beauty before you. The place is magnificent!! My wife is an artist and art teacher. She was also able to help bring much alive to me.
Works of so many great artists are on display in this museum. Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, among many others have their work highlighted here.
While we were waiting on line to get into the Uffizi we bumped into a couple and their children that we had met on a tour to Assisi. We had hit it off well with them. We again met them and spent time together in Venice!! We continue to keep in touch with this fine family from Australia.
THE PIAZZA
Be sure to have free time because there is just so much to see in such a small area. We spent time looking at the many sculptures in and around the Piazza della Signoria. This is a huge area without any traffic. Be sure to see the "other David", It's a copy that is outside in the elements. Great photo opts with different lighting are possible here. The original David is not all that far away in the Accademia. Until 1873 the original was outside in this piazza. More on him later. Do stroll in this area with camera in hand.
PALAZZO VECHIO
The Palazzo Vecchio, the old palace was the "town hall" of Florence. Built in 1322 it has a huge bell tower that is second only to the Duomo in height. This place has a real medieval look to it. Michelangelo's statue of Victory is in here.
STREETS OF FLORENCE
Be sure to get a street map and possibly follow one of the suggested walks. It's a good way to get acquainted with the city. It was in these streets that my wife found a shop where we purchased another piece of luggage for our flight home. It seems we were accumulating goods to take home from shops throughout Italy.
We love just walking the streets and happening upon places of interest, shops, and many fine restaurants. Food is to be appreciated and Florentines know how to prepare it just right. I have to say I loved the food in all of Italy. Do take a chance and try some of the smaller places that abound. If you see many locals in a place, get a table.
SAN CROCE
To see the burial place of Michelangelo and Galileo take fifteen minute walk to Santa Croce. It is a church that is a bit away from many of the other important sites of Florence but holds its own history, art, and appeal.
DUOMO
We had walked from the Palazzo Vecchio through the streets to the nearby Duomo. As you walk the streets you may see the dome of this building. It is enormous!! To appreciate its scale even more look at the people on the top of the dome standing at the rails. They seem so insignificant in size as compared to the structure under their feet. Better yet climp to the top yourself. The view is fantastic!!
We found a line outside the Duomo that moved fairly well. Reservations are not needed. This is a must stop!
Just outside the main doors of the Duomo is the Baptistry. Be sure to take time to study the artwork that went into its famous doors. The East Doors were done by Ghiberti. Michelangelo himself called them the "Gates of Paradise". They are incredible! The ones on the baptistry are now copies. There was a major flood, not all that many years ago, that destroyed some of the art of Florence. The originals can still be seen in Museo dell' Opera del Duomo. This is true of other threatened artwork from outside the Duomo.
SHOPPING
Another place to shop is just a five minute walk from the Duamo. Go to the Straw Market. All kinds of goods are available in a fun and lively atmosphere. This is not too far from San Lorenzo that was the parish church of the Medici Family that so much dominated and structured much of Florence. Here are more works of Michelangelo. You can see stairs, ceilings, and other designs of his.
THE GALLERIA DELL' ACCADEMIA
Up a bit north of San Lorenzo is the Galleria dell' Accademia. This has many great works of art but there is only one that everybody goes to see. Michelangelo's David. I found the beauty of the artwork of this sculpture rivaled by the interesting reactions of the many people who are there to see it. Do get there early. The lines do move quickly though. Be sure to see David and all those who go to see him. This is a perfect people watching area. There are benches around the sculpture, so get comfortable and enjoy.
We did most of this area walking. I might suggest taking a cab to the Accademia and then walking south toward the river. Do get your maps and guides. Finding restrooms and ATMs for money were not a problem in the city.
THE OTHER SIDE
From our hotel at the foot of the Ponte Vechio, the old bridge it wasn't much of a walk to the other side of the Arno. The two major places to see are the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. Plan the gardens in the best suited weather. Most everything else can be seen indoors in air conditioned rooms.
There are guides in books to see you through this beautiful area. This can be done in one day. Again have tickets and check schedules for the Pitti Palace.
A SIDE TRIP
We enjoyed the art of Florence, the food, shopping, and the Hotel Hermitage. We also took a side trip to Pisa by train. It was a relaxing ride on the train and gave us a chance to get out of the busy city for a while. We also used the train station for the last leg of our vacation taking the rails to Venice and all it had to offer. Florence, though, is the city of Art.
Florence is listed in the book 1,000 Places To See Before You Die. To read about the book and see some of the other listings go to
1,000 Places to See Before You Die
Other reviews of this trip to Italy by popsrocks
http://www.epinions.com/content_98440875652
http://www.epinions.com/content_98440875652
A side trip to Pisa
http://www.epinions.com/content_82621599364
Tuscany
http://www.epinions.com/content_91270844036
Venice
http://www.epinions.com/content_86122270340
The Danielli a five star hotel in Venice
http://www.epinions.com/content_75531980420
Rome
http://www.epinions.com/content_85570719364
The Colosseum
http://www.epinions.com/content_82927390340
The Pantheon
http://www.epinions.com/content_83714805380
Spanish Steps
http://www.epinions.com/content_83140644489
Cavelieri Hilton Hotel a 5 star hotel in Rome
http://www.epinions.com/content_75315449476
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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