If you are staying near Milan at all during your trip to Italy, I would highly recommend a day trip to Lago Maggiore. epinions did not include it, but it is near Lago Garda and Lago Como near the Swiss border.

We were fortunate to have an Italian friend take us there. Marco was a child when my parents were stationed at Aviano Air Force Base back in the late 1950s/early 1960s. Now he lives outside of Milan, and was happy to play tour guide while we were there.

The area around the lake is filled with charming towns like Stresa and Verbano. We were steered past them to the Borromean islands in the middle.

It's strange to imagine a lake that big that there are several islands in the middle of, but it is pretty large. We made pilgrimages to Isola dei Pescatori and Isola Bella.

Isola dei Pescatori is a fish lover's paradise. The entire island is full of quaint little restaurants that serve the day's catch as their specialties. Its name means "Island of the Fishermen." I remember having a wonderful perch with lemon and capers. And it was delicious. Plus, you can sit outside if the weather is nice, watching the boat traffic make its way around the lake.

There are generations of island cats around, who clean up the leavings at the restaurants from generous diners. They are all around the same mid grey color with beautiful eyes. After our wonderful lunch, we explored the rest of the island-- full of small old buildings with little courtyards full of pots with geraniums. Narrow winding paths shaded by old trees wended their way over most of the island. Supposedly, this was one of Hemingway's favorite places. And hearing that, I felt so close to history here.

Isola Bella was built by a nobleman (Carlo Borromeo III) for his wife Isabella d'Adda in the 17th century. Originally, it was called Isola Isabella, then shortened to "Bella", which means beautiful island.

We toured the palace first. If you like Baroque architecture, you must include this in your pilgrimage. Carlo (Charles) was the Viceroy of Naples. You can view his opulent red throne room, the grey blue Great Hall, and Napoleon's Room-- so called because the great emperor and his wife Josephine spent the night here in August of 1797.

The Luca Giordano room is full of important works by that artist. The Tapestry Gallery is a sight for anyone interested in fabrics and textiles. The "Ford of the Lioness" shows a river which seems to flow from whichever direction you look at it.

The Grottoes are the showplace of the palace. They are dug deep into the bowels of the building. It was constructed to provide a cool place to retire when the summer heat became oppressive. The entire interior of the grottoes is covered with light and dark stones, and surfaces made to look like shells. Very unusual, and VERY cool!

The gardens are something else again. I don't remember exactly how many levels they are constructed on. There are stairways and balustrades everywhere covered with flowers and more flowers. The amphitheater is the focal point. It is around 3 to 4 stories high, with recessed nooks for statuary, and is crowned with a unicorn-- the symbol of the Borromeos. Albino peacocks strut around it, and plants from all over the world, labeled with their points of origin decorate the surrounding grounds. The aviary nearby houses many types of birds.

Near the boat dock, you can find the typical vendors selling Italian trinkets, so I spent the last of my lire on some small cut glass pieces. Then we caught the shuttle back across the lake to Stresa. I caught the most beautiful picture of our vacation as the sun set behind us...the blazing orange of the sun retiring behind hills of historic villas. Perfect.

I highly recommend Lake Maggiore for your vacation. It is not as polluted as Lake Garda, and I think a little less touristy than Lake Como. With a little imagination, you'll see Percy Shelley or Lord Byron nearby, imagining their famous verses or cavorting with lovely ladies.

Recommended: Yes

Best Suited For: Families
Best Time to Travel Here: Mar - May