Sardegna - l'isola Smeraldissima
Written: Jan 15 '02 (Updated Jan 15 '02)
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Pros: Possibly the most beautiful sea in the world - is that enough?
Cons: Over-crowded and prohibitely expensive from mid-july to end of August.
The Bottom Line: If you wish to capture the beauty of unspoiled landscapes, hurry up before it's too late...
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| elsa70's Full Review: Costa Smeralda |
I was nonplussed when I saw this topic in Italian destinations, and thrilled by the opportunity of being the first reviewer to one of my favorite getaway spots in the world!
Sardegna (Sardinia)is a fairly large island set off of the Italian Thyrrenian coast. It is, quite simply, the best summer vacation spot there is in Italy. We Italians (I tend to think I'm one of them by now) flock to this favorite destination each and every year, never tiresome of gazing into crystal-clear waters that appear to have been stolen from an Impressionist painting, spanning from deep, emerald green to light turquoise, to the palest blue, with all of the shades in between... Of strolling on pristine, shockingly white or amazingly pink sandy beaches, or diving off deserted rocky cliffs.. Of breathing the essences of myrtle, rosemary, lavender the "macchia" (the Mediterranean vegetation) is so heavily loaded with...Of discussing with old fishermen while they pull in their nets and offer you the catch of the day, and try to make a deal while the sun sets amidst a flurry of pink and purple bouganvillae...
Can you tell I love Sardinia already?
Sardinia is truly an enchanting destination. There are so many destinations around the world, I can't assuredly say this is the best place on earth, but it certainly comes close! I won't be reviewing all of Sardinia, I might someday in the more generic topic, I'll just fill you in on one of the great loves of my life :
Costa Smeralda
The Emerald Coast most definitely lives up to its name. Its popularity is largely due to the intuition the Aga Khan had in late 1950's to develop the land he so madly fell in love with during a cruise he was taking with his own private yacht. (Aga Khan also fell madly in love with Rita Hayworth, by the way, so you can't really say he's had poor taste.) He decided to take on a very risky task - that of transforming a stunning, albeit rural, region into a wide world-class resort, without upsetting the natural beauty of the area, but rather by enhancing its colors and landscapes with carefully studied architectural plans that perfectly integrated the facilities in the environment.
The town Monti di Mola thus became, under this entrepreneur's hands, the worldwide celebrated resort of Porto Cervo, the first touristic development in Sardinia and today considered the moral capital of the Costa Smeralda region.
Costa Smeralda is, geographically speaking, a small portion of Sardinia, as it covers some 70 kilometers of the northern seaside land of Sardinia, ranging from the Santa Teresa di Gallura bay to the town of San Teodoro. Among the most popular destinations are, from northwest to northeast, Palau with its small islands Caprera and La Maddalena, the Arzachena gulf, Porto Cervo, Baja Sardinia, Porto Rotondo, tha Marinella gulf, and Capo Coda Cavallo. However, the name "Costa Smeralda" also commonly indicates the area that stretches farther west into the Stintino bay, including the villages of Costa Paradiso and Badesi as well.
This area features a highly concentrated touristic development, with an impressive number of hotels, residences, marinas and facility centers; nevertheless, building is constantly monitored by very strict development policies and must fit harmoniously in the natural, rugged landscape. Politically speaking, it is under the Sassari province, with its main city being Olbia, a large, overly constructed commercial town with no outstanding attractions. It is, however, home to the one international airport and the largest port that serve the Costa Smeralda, and the place of arrival for most tourists. There is also another international airport, located at the other end of the northern coast to the west (Alghero) and another commercial port (Porto Torres) but these cities are not properly set within the Costa Smeralda and are quite a distance from the main destinations.
Quite obviously, the Emerald Coast is best known for its breathtaking scenery. Pink and white steep cliffs enclave endless peaceful, sandy beaches with crystal-clear waters. Lovely aromas of wildflowers and Mediterranean pine trees are carried by the constant sea breeze. Prairies of heather and bushes of lavender and myrtle graze the footsteps of the hills and mountains that raise in the inland. Wildlife thrives - boars, deer, muttons, rare birds commonly peek out of the lush vegetation. Of course, the sea offers a number of hidden marvels as well, so if you love scuba diving, you'll find countless gems and treasures beneath its territory as well.
The cautious and attentive planning of the touristic sites in Costa Smeralda exalt, rather than subtract, the beauty of the settings. Beautiful villas built in pink stone and surrounded by bounganvillae and lush Mediterranean greenery are encrusted in rocky cliffs. Small gatherings of homes of granite are tucked away in tiny valleys. Campsites are hidden behind pine tree forests. Quaint piazzas, elegant boutiques, stone-paved streets,carefully tended and maintained marinas make up the villages scattered throughout the area. No high-rise buildings, no flashy lights, no enormous, distasteful holiday camps are to be seen here!
Costa Smeralda wasn't born yesterday, however. This is, after all, Italy, home to some of the oldest civilizations we know of as of today. Those who wish to add cultural notions to their trip will be able to trace the roots of Sardinian history down to the prehistoric Paleolitic era. The Nuraghe (fortified towers built of stone and dated back to the Bronze era, 500 a.c.) are found everywhere throughout the island and are quite impressive to visit. Because of its natural riches, Sardinia has been a very important land conquest for most of Mediterranean civilizations - the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Byzantines, the spanish Aragons, the Savoy, all have settled in this island and left very important testimonials of their passage. Archaeogical sites and museums that are open to the public are featured in almost every town, but my personal recommendation goes to the Garibaldine Museum in Caprera, a very interesting compendium of the life of Garibaldi,the Kingdom of Sardinia and the unification of the Italian nation, set in the incredible surroundings of Caprera, an amazingly beautiful island.
Tradition also has strong, undeterred roots in Sardinia.
The ever growing crowd of tourists hasn't changed Sardinians one single bit. This, of course, can create some difficulties for international tourists, as virtually no one speaks foreign languages, unless employed in international hotels. But it's a small compromise that has to be made in order to appreciate the sunny,outgoing nature of the locals, who will try to understand you anyway, and will serenely let you in on their secrets to a pleasant, simple way of life. The Sardinians are the longest living in Italy, with a very high life expectation (I've personally met more than a centennial retired fisherman..) and believe in a slow, ponderate living, no stress, no fuss, wholesome and simple food, an occasional glass of "Cannonau" or "Nuragus" (the local wines), and a smile on your face. Don't try to rush them, they just won't understand why they should hurry...
Just sit back and relax. Enjoy their local fare. Mutton, goat, boar, pork slowly roasted on charcoal, or biased in very simple and uncomplicated sauces. Sample their extraordinary cheeses, among which the Pecorino is simply divine. Savor a glass of their sweet Moscato or Mirto wine accompanied with their traditional Seada dessert or with an almond cookie. Try explaining yourselves with gestures, or use those few words of Italian you know. And don't be in a hassle!
This destination is usually considered to be quite expensive, especially for the European market. Actually, the Emerald Coast offers lodging for all budgets . Some of the most highly praised hotels and resorts in the entire world are located in Porto Cervo: the Romazzino, the Pitrizza, the Cala Di Volpe, the Cervo hotels are all part of the Starwood Luxury Collection,are internationally acclaimed for both their location and their facilities, offer excellent service and are of course priced accordingly. Other top class hotels in the same town, such as the Luci di La Muntagna, the Colonna hotel, the Petra Bianca, are more affordable, but still in the high range. If you wish to visit this region on a truly limited budget, it is virtually impossible to find a hotel under 200USD in the following villages:
Porto Cervo and Porto Cervo Marina; Porto Rotondo; Cala di Volpe.
The reason is that this is the area where most Italian and European celebrities have their summer homes. The Italian Permier Berlusconi owns a villa in Porto Rotondo; Gianni Agnelli, FIAT's president, has his retreat in Porto Cervo; Paolo Fresco recently became the owner of a villa in Cala di Volpe; and all of the politicians, actresses, TV personalities, VIPs from both Italy and abroad are tenants in these three towns.
However, due to the favorable exchange Euro/the rest of the world (what a shame), Sardinia is not out of reach.
A number of moderate to superior accomodations in all the other villages and towns in the Emerald Coast area offer very good value lodging at inexpensive rates. There also are many all-inclusive resorts at reasonable prices, and an immense array of residences, apartment complexes, and villas for rental purposes that can be very convenient, especially if you're traveling in a group. There are some campsites - the Isuledda in Arzachena being the largest and most popular.
All in all, Sardinia can offer high standard accomodation fit to suit any expense and service requirements.
..Unless you plan to travel in August!
August is peak season in Italy. All businesses, from large companies to stores, virtually close down and stop working for over three weeks and everyone is on vacation from the last week in July to the third weekend in August.
Costa Smeralda then rears its ugly face.
The small winding streets that connect the villages perched on the cliffs become fatally dangerous with hellish traffic. Nightclubs open to immense crowds of rude, loud, eccentric and spoiled Italians. Marinas are jammed with huge yachts, motor and sailboats, and often their "captain" is some nouveau riche Italian caricature that doesn't know what he's doing. Restaurants, hotels, apartments, charge twice as much as they do two weeks prior or after peak season. Groceries and water provisions are scarce (Sardinia is a quite dry region). You won't fully experience the beauty of this island if you happen to visit during these few weeks... And you'll be paying out of your nose!
My best travel tips for Costa Smeralda:
- The best months for a trip are from May to Mid-July.
The entire island is in bloom. It's peaceful, quiet, all facilities are open from Easter, and everyone is in a blissful mood, with high expectations for the upcoming high season.
September and October are also a great time for visiting.
It's more melanchonic at the end of the summer season, but Costa Smeralda is very gracious when chaos leaves the stage to warm, mild fall days. The colors are still stunning and the weather is always sunny and dry at this time of the year.
Plan on doing some sailing or windsurfing, or hire a skipper for a day trip or more.
Costa Smeralda is best experienced by sea. Most of the most beautiful beaches are hard to reach, and there are a number of small, pristine islands scattered as jewels in front of the coast. The weather conditions make Costa Smeralda one of windsurfers' and sailers' favorite worldwide spots . The sea breeze is constant and quite strong, and it hardly ever rains during the summer months.
It will be a most memorable journey if you get the chance to visit the most secluded beaches and islands such as Budelli, Caprera, La Maddalena, or reach Cavallo and the islands between Corsica and Sardinia. Most hard-core visitors of Costa Smeralda purchase a boat before even hunting for a home!
Lodging is best in Baja Sardinia, Palau, Porto Pollo, Golfo Aranci and Santa Teresa di Gallura. .
All these locations are very well developed, offer spectacular views, and are convenient for all of the area's attractions. But don't rent a car. Driving ion the Sardinian roads - tiny, winding, with hidden cliffs and often not in peak condition - is not advisable unless you are really a great driver. No automatic cars are hardly ever available. There are countless deathly accidents every summer in Sardinia. If you must have a means of transportation, rent a scooter!
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Costa Smeralda is served by ferry boats that leave from the Italian mainland ports of Genoa, La Spezia, Livorno, Civitavecchia/Rome, from Nice in France, and from the island of Corsica. It is also served by the international airport of Olbia, with flights from Barcelona, Paris, London, Munich and Frankfurt, and domestic flights from most Italian airports.
If you want to enjoy some stunning pictures and learn a bit more about Sardinia, you can log on to these links (in English):
www.regione.sardegna.it/inglese/index.htm
www.sardegna.net
www.itwg.com/en_sar01.asp?Language=ENG
I hope I've done justice to this great destination and given you something new to daydream about...
..Because the Emerald Coast truly is a dream come true!
Thank you for reading, Daniela
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Mar - May
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Epinions.com ID:
elsa70
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Location: Ciao, baby.
Reviews written: 33
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temporarily out of order. ZZZZZZZ.
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