Go to Church with Michelangelo - Santa Maria Novella
Written: Aug 11 '09 (Updated Aug 12 '09)
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Pros: Tourists are allowed to attend mass if they choose.
Cons: I really would have loved to take photographs but it is prohibited.
The Bottom Line: This is where Michelangelo went to church. See it!
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| shopaholic_man's Full Review: Santa Maria Novella |
I went to church Sunday. I didn't go to my usual church. I am a Lutheran, but I went to a Catholic church. I speak English, but I went to a service in Italian. I live near Boston, but I went to church in Florence.
My girlfriend and I attended mass at Santa Maria Novella, a very historic old church (completed during the mid 14th century) in the historical section of Florence, Italy. I don't know who was with us when we attended mass, but I know who used to go to church here. Michelangelo. No, not the teenage mutant ninja turtle, but the famous Renaissance painter for whom he was named.
Outside the Church
We walked by this beautiful huge gothic style church with a gorgeous marble facade every morning. Every evening we sat in the plaza of the church eating gelato. Our hotel was right around the corner. Santa Maria Novella, like all the churches in Florence that begin with Santa Maria is absolutely stunning looking. (we visited at least four churches that were Santa Maria something). The front is white marble with green marble accents. It overlooks a massive courtyard lined on the sides with hotels and my favorite gelateria stand.
Inside the Church
Inside, the church is huge. (not as huge as Il Duomo aka Santa Maria de Flore, or St. Peters in Vatican City, but huge). The Italians also love their art. Adorning the sides of the church are huge paintings in each section. Simple wooden pews face the massive altar which looks like a minature version of a church itself. Behind the church altar the walls and ceilings are covered with fresco style paintings of scenes from the Bible. These frescoes are absolutely beautiful. Michaelangelo was one of the painters. On the left wall, the frescoes are scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary and on the right wall are scenes from the life of John the Baptist. In the center were three tall thin stained glass windows. On either side of the main altar are alcoves with famous works of religious art. I forget the exact church name for the spaces that are on either side of the main altar. At the back of the church is a huge circular stained glass window. We took a tour of the church after mass and also found the gift shop off one section of the church. One of the more famous pieces of art there is the Crucifix by Giotto and The Crucifix by Brunelleschi and the Creche by Botticelli.
Inside the walls of the church, there is also a beautiful courtyard and another separate section of the church that is reserved for prayers even when the main church is being used as a tourist attraction.
The Church Service
We enjoyed the service too. Although I am not Catholic, nor Italian speaking, the Lutheran service is pretty similar to the Catholic service. I was able to simply read along in Italian (hey the alphabet is the same, I just didn't know quite what I was reading). There is the ritual back and forth between the priest and the congregation, a couple of readings from the Bible, the sermon, the offering, sharing of the peace, and the taking of communion. I do wish I could speak Italian so that I could have understood the sermon. There were not as many hymns sung as in my own service or as in other Catholic services that I attended but the service did close with a beautiful playing of Ode to Joy from Beethoven's Ninth Symphony Fourth Movement at the close of the service.
The service was incredibly moving for both of us, and it is not one I will forget. I don't know you, the reader's religious beliefs or affiliations, but I can tell you that I was in a bit of pain the morning I went. I said a prayer before the service began and literally moments later the pain was gone and stayed gone for the rest of the day. For the non-believer, perhaps a coincidence, but for me, it was an answered prayer.
Mass is on weekdays at 7:30 a.m and 6:00 p.m. On Sundays there was mass at 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m. We attended the later mass, and were actually surprised that not a lot of people attended.
Things to Know before Coming In.
This is a church, even if you are there for a tour, you have to cover your shoulders and should not have short shorts on. Act quietly and respectfully. There is no photography permitted inside. The morning I went to mass was the only morning on the entire trip that I wore long pants and left my camera in my pocket.
For More Info
This church, like all churches in Florence is chock full of art. If you truly want to know everything that is inside, I suggest that you do what I did and pick up a book inside the the gift shop. I bought one called Santa Maria Novella and its Monumental Cloisters. It outlines not only who painted or sculpted what, but also what the particular paintings and sculptures are of and what they mean. I cannot cover all of that in a simple review.
Directions
If you are staying at the Alba, walk down the street to your left towards the main historical section of the city. When you come to the Gelataria that serves the really good gelato, look to the left across the Piazza de Santa Maria Novella. It's the big huge church at the end of the plaza. You can't miss it. If you are not staying at the Alba, don't worry, this church and its plaza are clearly marked on all the maps. Its a few blocks from the biggest church, Santa Maria de Flore aka Il Duomo.
Summary
There are so many churches to see and admire in Florence its hard to take them all in. The ONE to see is Il Duomo, and Santa Croce has all the famous people buried inside. Santa Maria Lorenzo is bigger, but for me, Santa Maria Novella held the deepest personal meaning. I give it five stars and do suggest making this one of the churches to see when you are seeing the churches of Florence.
Recommended:
Yes
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