Venice, AMAZING!!
Written: Jan 11 '03 (Updated Mar 24 '05)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Most glorious walks. And the most quiet walks. No cars or scooters to deal with.
Cons: Can flood in the spring.
The Bottom Line: There is something magical about Venice. You've got to see it once. Afterward you'll know you will have to see it again, and again.
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| popsrocks's Full Review: Venice |
My wife and I closed our two week plus vacation of Italy with four days in Venice. In Rome we cabbed it around town. We rented a car and toured the Tuscany area and then turned in the rental to spend a few days in Florence with a side trip to Pisa. From Florence we took a train to Venice.
ARRIVAL
We arrived at the Santa Lucia train station. We had our gear of three suitcases and each had a back pack. We had purchased the third suitcase while in Florence. We had to have somewhere to put the goodies we purchased in shops the previous week and a half.
In getting off the train my wife and I just followed the crowd. They made their way down to the canal and we followed. Once there we looked for the #82 Vaporetti. I had read up on transportation before our trip to Venice. The Vaporetti are simply buses that run in the water. There is no vehicular traffic in Venice. You walk or take some kind of water transportation around. I had read the #82 would take us down the Grand Canal to our hotel. We stayed at the Danieli Hotel. It is a five star wonder. I did write a review about the place a few months ago. It has a fantastic location!! Fortunately we were able to stay there due to Amex points. The #82 is the express water bus. If you take the #1 you will get a ride that is the same, but it is the local. It takes its time getting around.
We were there in the summer. It was a bit hot and crowded but never intolerable. The vaporetti was jam packed but again we followed the crowd. Actually being a bit overladen we were pretty much pushed off the boat at our destination by the locals doing their everyday business.
There are water taxi stands all along the banks. They are quicker getting around but also much more expensive. To get across the banks of the Grand Canal look for Traghetti. These are somewhat like gondolas a bit bigger but not quite as luxurious.
SOME SITES TO SEE
Our hotel, the Danieli was right around the corner from The Piazza San Marco. It was said that Napoleon called the Piazza "The best drawing room in Europe". Still today it could take that honor. I loved it!! It is a huge open square with fantastic architecturally stunning buildings and many, many, restaurants and shops throughout it's outside boarders. One evening I sat by myself for hours at a table outside on the square. My wife was doing some shopping and I was having anisette and just watching the people go by.
Pigeons are all over the square. People feed them and those with patience have the pigeons on their arms and shoulders. The picture opportunities are amazing!
Another thing that was a lot of fun were the musicians at the outdoor restaurants. The bands played outside entertaining and also trying to attract business to their tables. The frontmen were real entertainers and knew how to draw in a crowd. Once the band finished a piece the band next door would start up. It was "dueling bands" in the middle of the square! It was terrific! Every evening this would happen. The prices at the places were moderate to high priced. You should try it at least once, but don't miss all the little hidden places on the side streets. There are so many treasures to find.
In the square is St Mark's Bell Tower the Campanelli di San Marco. This is a rebuilt tower replacing the one that tumbled to the ground in 1902. It is a must visit. The views from on top are incredible. If you time it right you can be there when the bells ring. There is an admission charge much as you will find in most of the museums and Duomos in Venice.
Right in this one square are also many other must see sites. The Basilica di San Marco is a wonder to behold. It is a mix of Medieval, Romanesque, Byzantine, and Classical architecture. Take the tour inside, there is so much to learn about it. Be sure to check out the Maddona Nicopeia It is an incredible work of art made with jewels!
Right next door is the Doges' Palace, Palazzo Ducale. It is also another incredible tour to take. It is magnificent in its architecture, treasures, and history. This is the building that many of you may recognize in some of Monet's paintings. Also attached to it is the famous Bridge of Sighs. It is the place many condemned persons had their last views before taking in their last breath.
OTHER TREASURES
There is so much to see right in that area but you haven't found the real treasures of Venice just yet. These are found in the little canals, small bridges, and alley ways throughout the city.
I suggest getting lost. The truth of the matter is you really can't. When you walk the back alleys and canals there are signs posted. With a simple arrow to major city areas. You may find a sign that simply states San Marco with an arrow. You just follow the arrows and you will find yourself in the square. Other places listed may be one of the bridges. Just follow the signs. These markers are not on every wall or turn. They are just up in enough places to get you where you need to go. A basic map is a good idea but let me tell you, you will still get lost. I'm an excellent map reader but this city is mostly unmarked on the maps and that is the fun of it.
In the alley ways you will find many little shops and small bakeries, places to grab something to eat and places that the Venetians frequent.
THE PEOPLE
The Venetians were a bit different than the other people we met in Italy. They were a bit more business like. They were still friendly but didn't have quite the warmth of the Italians of other parts of the country. Actually the people of Venice will let you know that they are different than the rest of Italy and they are proud of that distinction.
TREATS
We loved stopping at the Gelato shops. These are places to take pictures. The colours of the Gelato are so vibrant and the taste is heavenly. There are many of them throughout the city.
Just a reminder at this point. There are no cars, buses, taxis, scooters or any other type of motorized transportation in the city. Just the waterways have powered transport. This makes the wandering so delightful.
Please help me somebody. We went to a couple of places where they sell small sandwiches at very, very, reasonable prices. There is a name for them. If someone can help please leave a comment. They were wonderfully good! The food was so fresh.
We made the mistake of going to a couple of places that were mentioned in our Frommers and Foders guides. They weren't worth it and certainly didn't live up to their hype. Harry's Bar was one of the places. The other was an indoor place. Sorry, I don't remember the name. My suggestion here is to do some trial and error. The fact is any of the small places in the alleys were wonderful. We also found a few places right on the water near the Ponte Rialto. That is the main bridge between the two sections of Venice across the Grand Canal. This is a great place to watch the Gondoliers working their craft and giving rides. Gondolas are much larger than I imagined. Some of the are quite ornate. The area near the bridge is another great picture taking spot. The striped poles, gondolas, small waterside restaurants and fantastic architecture of the surrounding buildings will have you shooting away trying to get that perfect photo. They all will be perfect. The opportunities are endless. The lighting of the morning, noon, sunsets, and evening is forever changing and the views are gorgeous.
THE TRUTH
Ok, now to tell you the truth. We never took a gondola ride. They were just too expensive for our taste. They wanted a minimum of seventy five dollars for a half hour ride. So you say, that's not really that much and how often do you get the chance to do such a unique thing? Well we made good use of our dwindling dollars sitting around at small places and just watching and listening to the gondoliers. We were quite content doing that. Oh, if you want a singing gondolier be prepared to have another twenty five to fifty bucks in addition to the regular fee. If you do take a ride negotiate before getting in. Know where he is taking you and how long you will be out. Ask to do the small canals. The Grand Canal can be quite rough with the water buses and taxis moving about.
One thing we did see but never followed up on were groups of people in gondolas passing around wine and listening to an accordion player in the boat while doing the canals. It looked like the people were having a wonderful time.
MARKETS
We spent one day walking around in the San Polo area where the markets are. Again have your camera and have fun interacting with the merchants. Be sure to see the fruit and vegetable vendors and then the fish market. The way of showing and selling their produce and fish is so interesting and different than ours here in the states.
While on that side of the bridge try and find Campo San Polo. It's another beautiful church with much to see inside. Please try to have time when in Venice. Our visits to the different parts were always relaxed and turned into small adventures.
Be sure to check out any local concerts. We found a post on a door of an old church. That night they were having an orchestra playing. We went, it was wonderful! The sound of the violins vibrating and bouncing from the arched ceilings was fantastic.
$$$$$$$
Venice is now on the euro-dollar. I received most of that cash I needed through ATM machines. They were found in some hotels and public areas.
FIREWORKS
We were fortunate in that the last night we were in Venice there was a celebration of a popular patron saint of the island. As we sat at a small table on the Grand Canal for dinner we watched ten's of hundreds of boats of different sizes and shapes making their way up the canal to a meeting place where they all tied up together. The boats had music playing and bottles of wine being shared. It was quite a Happening. At nine o'clock they started with fireworks. They were great and continued at full blast for a full hour!! People were all over the shores of the canals and in boats cheering and in a very festive mood.
On our last morning we took a water taxi ride, provided by our hotel, directly to the airport. It took about thirty five minutes to get there.
My wife and I loved the grandeur of Venice and its small cozy little spots. It was always a city of contrasts. It is a city we want to return to.
Venice is listed in the book 1,000 Places To See Before You Die. To read about the book and see some of the other listings go to
1,000 Places to See Before You Die
Other reviews in Italy by popsrocks
Florence
A side trip to Pisa
Tuscany
Venice
The Danielli, a five star Hotel in Venice
Rome
The Colosseum
The Pantheon
Spanish Steps
Cavellieri Hilton, a five star resort in Rome
Two other great cities!
London
New York City
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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