St. Petersburg - In Need Of A Major Cash Infusion!
Written: Oct 01 '04
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: The breathtaking wealth displayed in the many palaces, stunning architecture!
Cons: The weather! Deterioration of buildings and infrastructure!
The Bottom Line: The general condition of this magnificent city makes one wonder what the future holds for Russia's former capital.
Prepare to be dazzled by its treasures and saddened by its fate.
|
|
|
| whalewatcher's Full Review: St Petersburg |
St. Petersburg is a relatively young city compared to others in that part of the world, only 301 years old to be exact, but old enough to have survived two devastating revolutions, a civil war, a long and crippling siege during WWII, and the rise and fall of Imperial Russia. The scars of such a turbulent history are still very much visible today. The once shining star, Russia's cultural soul, is in desperate need of repair and this is AFTER a huge amount of money has been spent to revamp the city for a big 300 year anniversary celebration last year.
Often referred to as Russia's "Window on the West", St. Petersburg might well be one of the most magnificent cities in the world thanks to the great vision of Peter the Great. Built on the banks of the Neva River and criss-crossed by canals, the architecture of this city is simply stunning. The many ornate Baroque Palaces, the massive cathedrals with their golden onion domes, the beautiful neo-classical buildings, countless picturesque bridges and impressive monuments, and the dizzying wealth of former Russian nobility displayed in the many fabulous mansions make it easy to understand why this beautiful city is very much the pride of Russia.
Considering what once was, it is almost painful, if not depressing, to see the condition of so many of these beautiful buildings. Showing the signs of decades of neglect, they are crumbling before one's very eyes. The unfriendly, damp climate in the summer (the sun only shines 30 to 40 days a year) and the bitterly cold winters are harsh on the infrastructure and buildings, making the much needed restoration work a forbidding task. Not to mention an even bigger challenge - the cost!
But even more disturbing to the happy go lucky visitor is the total lack of smiling faces. Perhaps it's the culture and really not anything out of the ordinary, but it bothered me to the point of feeling uneasy. Granted, life has not been easy for the residents here, but there are many countries who have shared a similar fate, yet the people still make an effort to be friendly and warm. And rarely have I witnessed such a drastic difference between generations when it comes to appearance. Older generations look far older than their years (the word 'frumpy' comes to mind!), a stark contrast to the very fashionably (and often provocatively) dressed young people. Especially the young ladies, many of whom are extremely beautiful and shapely, look like they have just stepped off a fashion runway. But still rarely a smile! The only happy faces we saw were those of the many newly married couples, posing in their wedding attire for picture ops in front of some of St. Petersburg's magnificent buildings, fountains, or bridges. I have never seen so many newlyweds at one time and it was refreshing to see that this place was not totally devoid of happiness.
Because of the many canals, St. Petersburg is also called the "Venice of the North", and a canal tour can give you a very unique perspective of this great city. We took a wonderful open-air boat tour on the Fontanka River and Kryukov Canal and, with the help of a knowledgeable English speaking guide, enjoyed a perfect introduction to the city, floating by fabulous sites such as the Hermitage and surrounding buildings, the St. Peter & Paul Fortress and Cathedral, Peter the Great's Summer Palace, and so many of the ornate buildings lining the waterfront, not to mention the series of beautiful bridges, each one distinctly different and many adorned with bronze or gold statues. You will also see the 'Cruiser Aurora', famous for having fired her guns to signal the beginning of the Bolshevik Revolution. The old ship is a museum today. Sipping complimentary champagne, we were sorry to have this boat tour come to an end. One thing to remember would be to take care of any bathroom needs prior to departure, the facilities on board are less than pristine!
The tour ended close to the stunningly beautiful and ornate Church of the Savior on the Spilled Blood, built on the site of Tsar Alexander II's assassination. The exterior of this spectacular church is covered with thousands of mosaic pieces and colored glazed bricks, and crowned by beautiful gold and blue onion domes. It is probably St. Petersburg's most photographed structure. The church is closed on Wednesdays but open on all other days from 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Immediately next door is a nice park and, across the street, one of the city's busiest souvenir markets. We found the prices here to be good and the vendors were willing to do a little bargaining, perhaps because the end of the tourist season was nearing or because there was such an overwhelming supply of merchandise. Stand after stand was filled with hundreds of the colorful wooden Matrioshka dolls, Lacquer Boxes, Amber jewelry, wooden toys, beautiful chess sets, pottery, etc. We found the sales people to be helpful and polite, almost reserved, a refreshing change from the aggressive sales tactics used in some other parts of the world. Although Russia's currency is the Ruble, most vendors accepted either the Euro or the U.S. Dollar.
Czar Peter I, who founded the city after seizing the Neva River from the Swedes, named it after his patron Saint, St. Peter. The area was mostly swamp and millions of wood pilings had to be driven into the mud to support the many new structures. A new harbor was built to start commerce with the West, and Europe's best architects were hired to design palaces and homes for the new capital in the fashionable Baroque style of those times. During WWI, the city was renamed 'Petrograd', and after Lenin's death in 1924, the name changed again, this time to 'Leningrad'. Ultimately, in 1991, the citizens of St. Petersburg voted to have the original name restored. Many of the city's tourist guides will tell you that there are always rumors going around that, perhaps, the name might change once more. But 'Putingrad' doesn't seem to hold much appeal so, perhaps, it will just remain a rumor!!
One shouldn't visit Russia without seeing the Russian Ballet. Even if you have never gone to a Ballet performance, or think you don't like Ballet, I can tell you that you will enjoy this experience. We saw a spectacular and truly memorable performance of 'Giselle' in the Conservatoir Theater, located in the Theater Square right next to the more famous Mariinsky Theater. But the Conservatoire Theater is quite beautiful as well. It was built in 1896 for famous composer Rubinstein's educational institute. Rimsky-Korsakov was the director of the Conservatoire for many years and is commemorated by a large statue just outside its walls. Transportation to and from the theater and the performance, which included champagne during intermission, cost $69 per person and was worth every single penny of it!
One of the city's most popular sites is the Peterhof Palace. Built on top of a hill and overlooking the Gulf of Finland, it was designed to rival Versailles. The palace is surrounded by a beautiful 300 acre park with a series of spectacular fountains. The most impressive is the Grand Cascade. Its focal point is the famous fountain of Samson trying to pry open the jaws of a lion, while a huge volume of water cascades down the many terraced steps which are lined with gold statues and smaller fountains. It is a sight to behold, especially if you are lucky enough to visit on a rare sunny day. What is amazing is that none of the fountains operate with the help of pumps. All are gravity fed. The downfall at this popular place are the crowds. It was absolutely packed with people when we were there and your patience is tested if you want to tour the inside of the palace. Lines are long and proper organization is lacking. Aside from an already very long wait, our tour was held up for an additional 30 minutes because the guide for the tour ahead of us was late in getting there. It never seemed to dawn on anyone to let us move ahead. Such a suggestions was met with a blank stare, hinting at the fact that even these days, thinking 'outside of the box' is still a bit foreign.
The area between the Palace and the parking lot is filled with souvenir stands, but quite a few merchants peddle their wares at the front entrance, where long lines of waiting tourists are the perfect target. Some of the merchandise is quite good, extremely well priced and, even here, bargaining is not out of the question.
If a visit to the Catherine Palace is on your agenda, I would skip touring the interior of the Peterhof Palace altogether, especially if it requires a long wait. Enjoy the grounds and the fountains instead. The rooms pale in comparison to those of the Catherine Palace which is an absolute 'must see' while in St. Petersburg. Although located a bit outside of the city in Tsarkoye Selo, this fabulous and ornate Baroque Palace will take your breath away. Designed by Rastrelli, it sports a stunning 1000 foot long blue and white facade, decorated in gold and crowned with brilliant, golden onion domes. The palace was built to honor Peter the Great's wife Catherine I, who succeeded him as ruler. 1400 acres of beautiful manicured gardens and parks surround this marvel, but it is the interior which houses treasures beyond belief. Room after room offers a dazzling display of exquisite art pieces, tapestry, china, ornate furniture, jewelry, and more. Rooms such as the White Vestibule, the Portrait Hall, The Crimson Pilaster Room and, most notably, the Amber Room just hint at the incredible wealth of earlier Russian nobility. All visitors must wear slip-on covers over their shoes to protect the wood floors (also in the Peterhof Palace) but, surprisingly enough, flash photography is allowed in all but the Amber Room, which boast magnificent walls crafted entirely of Amber.
Much of the palace was damaged during WWII, but almost all of it has been meticulously restored to its former glory, including the Amber Room whose treasures vanished in 1944 at the hands of the Nazis and have yet to be recovered. Over the years, quite a few people have died under mysterious circumstances during the recovery effort, giving way to the rumor that there is a curse on the plundered treasures which are thought to be hidden in a secret bunker in the Austrian Alps.
One of the most popular buildings in St. Petersburg is the Hermitage which houses one of the world's finest art collections. Located on the Palace Square (Dvortsovaya Ploshchad) along the Neva River, it was the Tsar's Winter Palace and combined with the four adjacent buildings, it now exhibits over 3 million works of art. The Baroque Palace was designed by Rastrelli. Beautiful patterned parquet floors, ornate staircases, molded and decorated ceilings, and lavishly gilded appointments create the perfect environment for displaying paintings by such famous masters as Da Vinci, Renoir, Rembrandt, Monet, and so many more. Crowds are relentless, however, which makes it difficult to enjoy the experience, but you'll find that the interior of the Hermitage is almost as impressive as the artwork.
Also in the Palace Square is a tall monument commemorating Alexander I's participation in the defeat of Napoleon's invasion of 1812. And it is here where the Bloody Sunday massacre took place in 1905, and where crowds rallied in support of Perestroika in 1991.
St. Petersburg's turbulent and sometimes sinister history can, quite frankly, be a bit overwhelming. It's a lesson in human survival and resiliency in the face of often unimaginable suffering. The city and the people have persevered, but the scars are everywhere - a constant reminder of the past.
Some of the best shopping in St. Petersburg is on Nevsky Prospekt, a three-mile long boulevard lined with fashionable shops, boutiques, and restaurants. It starts at the Admiralty (former naval shipyard) and ends at the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. Unfortunately, our two days were packed full with sight-seeing and there was no time for leisurely shopping!
Visitors from the U.S. must have a tourist visa which can be obtained from the Russian Embassy or a visa service such as Zierer which lets you download the required information and forms. An exception is if you arrive by ship in which case you are under a blanket visa, but it requires that you participate in ship's tours only. Neighboring countries such as Poland and Estonia do not require a visa.
We arrived via cruise ship (Royal Caribbean) and were berthed in St. Petersburg's not very scenic but extremely busy Sea Commercial Port. The approach is challenging and required 2 local pilots to navigate the ship through the narrow Morskoy Kanal which, in places, only has a navigable width of 250 ft. and has to be dredged almost continuously. It is the only approach channel for the port of St. Petersburg. Departing two days later required the same, but this time we were also escorted by 2 tug boats during our canal transit. From there we passed through the Nevkaya Guba (Gulf) and sailed within a few hundred yards by Russia's old naval base 'Kronstadt', which is located on Ostrov Kotlin Island and the home of several tired and neglected looking warships and submarines, making one think that, perhaps, the newer and shinier equipment (if they have it) is well out of sight, and these rust-buckets are just used as a decoy.
All in all, I came away with very mixed emotions. No doubt, St. Petersburg is a beautiful city and one of the architectural marvels of the world, but the glitz and glamor of the many palaces is very much overshadowed by the living conditions of the common people, the crumbling infrastructure, the deteriorating buildings, broken down cars, and the sad and tired faces of those who have lived through so much. One can only hope that a brighter future lies ahead.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Jun - Aug
|
|
|
|
Epinions.com ID:
whalewatcher
|
 - Top 500 |
|
Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
Reviews written: 197
Trusted by: 244 members
About Me:
Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.