Cairnpapple Hill: Ancient Rites and Sacred Stones
Written: May 03 '01 (Updated May 03 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Spectacular views, impressive stone monuments, and a congenial host
Cons: Somewhat difficult to find
The Bottom Line: Cairnpapple Hill is a must for those visitors to Scotland who crave the opportunity to touch the stones of ancient ceremonial sites. Those so inclined will feel a sacred presence.
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| DAnneC's Full Review: Scotland |
Just so there's no misunderstanding, Cairnpapple Hill isn't that easy to find. In October 1999, its location was not well signposted from the main road through Linlithgow. We misplaced ourselves both going and coming, so I can't be particularly helpful in providing directions. The best I can offer in advising those who want to visit this wonderful site is to head west out of Linlithgow, turn south at the edge of town, and hope for the best. The signposting does improve as you get nearer. Linlithgow, in turn, is just a few miles west of Edinburgh.
Little is known for certain about the purposes underlying the Cairnpapple monuments, but it is reasonably clear that this was a place of great religious significance to the people of Neolithic and Bronze Age Scotland. The henge monument reaches back in time 5000 years, and consists of a bank and ditch oval that once protected a circle of massive timbers. The henge was surely used for ceremonial purposes--possibly involving astrological observations, though this connection is by no means firmly established.
A smaller ceremonial circle has also been identified, which would have been visible just inside and off-center of the large timbered circle. The smaller circle may predate the henge itself. The cairns located within this smaller circle date back 4000 years, and a handful of more recent and smaller burials (dating from the late Roman era) are probably Christian.
What is perhaps most remarkable about Cairnpapple is its location. The other henge monuments of Britain are almost always situated on wide plains or valley floors. This one was placed on a hilltop with a commanding view, and on a clear day one can literally gaze across the width of Scotland.
Cairnpapple's resident guide and caretaker, Mr. Harry Peterson, led us through the history and geography of this spectacular site. Initially offering us a 5-minute orientation, he gave us nearly an hour of his undivided attention. After sending us down inside the dome covering the so-called North Grave and the Second Burial Cairn, he brought out his field glasses to show us Stirling and the Wallace Monument to the north, the Isle of Arran to the west, and Bass Rock to east.
Nearer at hand, Mr. Peterson identified Loch Linlithgow, the Witches' Wood, and entrances to abandoned mines. In the process of all this, he offered us tea and filled our imaginations with scenes of hunter-gatherers building sacred shrines, of Scottish kings and nobles feasting on captive swans and doves, and of witches' conclaves held in secret places. He spun magic for us.
We went on our way believing that this man, the master of the hill, had the best job in the world--and knew it. His love of Scottish lore and the images he created linger with us still.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
DAnneC
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Location: Small Town America
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Loves history, travel, gardens, and words in general
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