I'm a world traveler with stamps in my passport from 5 continents in the last 4 years. Not as well traveled as some, still I 've had a chance to see things that I've only dreamed about in the past. So when I tell you that Sevilla is the most beautiful city I have ever seen, it has some pretty stiff competition in my eyes.

My entry into Sevilla came during the rush hour back to work following the Siesta hour. A taxi ride from the train station on one side of town to the Hotel Regina on the other side of the town was slowed by some traffic from a festival that afternoon. I enjoyed the slow traffic, however, as it gave me my first glance at the city. My first thoughts as we drove through orange-tree lined streets, past parks and edifices whose history was unknown, but whose beauty was unquestionable was that this was an amazing place. I had no idea how true that was. My only regret in my time in Sevilla was that it did not last longer as I am certain that I missed many things because I was so rushed.

My first night, I settled into my room at the Hotel Regina and then talked to the concierge. She helped me to get onto a night tour of Sevilla which included a drive around with stories of romantic trysts, parks and buildings dedicated to lovers, the daring-do of Don Juan and finally ended with a couple of hours of tapas bar hopping and a flamenco show. The romantic part of the story was well worth the tour. If you've taken tours around Spain, however, you've probably eaten tapas and watched flamenco. The show we saw was perfectly nice, but hardly spectacular. The tapas, likewise, were good but nothing exceptional. The stories I got to hear that night about the lovers and Don Juan and such, however, were things I could not have gleaned on my own. A later trip out to an area that the hotel concierge directed me led me to find Spaniards enjoying tapas - not tourists. These tapas showed much more variety and were certainly more genuine. Though a vegetarian, I got to watch people chowing down on portions of baby octopus, special hams, and raw fish salads that were never offered to the tour buses full of American and European tourists I had originally been with. (I tended to stick to white asparagus and cheese dishes at these real places.)

The next morning, I had been booked on a tour of "the monuments of Sevilla." This is a good choice of tours if you are ready to do some walking. The tour begins by bus as it picks up tourists from hotels all over. I was picked up at 8:45. Along the way, the tour guide will point out various spots of interest and fill you in on details about the city and its history. On my tour, the tour guide delivered her tour first in Spanish, then in French and then in English. The tour lasts about three and a half to four hours once it really starts going. The tour begins at the Plaza de Espana which is where the Iberoamerican Exhibition of 1929 took place. Before getting there, you will be shown the "houses" set up by various countries. Each shows a sample of their tradition represented in architecture. Many of these buildings are now used for consulates, libraries or other official uses. One is more beautiful than the next. When you think you've seen the best, the tour drops you on a street through which the Plaza de Espana itself can be seen. You walk through doors of a beautiful, but rather ordinary building and walk out into one of the most extraordinary plazas ever. The round plaza gives you a breathtaking view. Around the edge are small alcoves, each a tribute to a different region of Spain. Each of these is more beautiful than the next. If you get time to return here with a guide to show you, you can learn much of the history of Spain in this place. There is a beautiful bridge here and the gardens - even on a not very beautiful day such as my tour took place on - are breathtaking. We spent twenty-minutes here. I could have happily spent many hours.

Next the tour went to the Cathedral (on Sundays and holidays the visits to the Cathedral depend on religious services). The Cathedral, the third largest in the Catholic world, is spectacular. This is one of those places that you can wander around on your own, however, it is much better with a knowledgable tour guide to point out things you might never discover on your own. Our group entered near the Patio de los Naranjos - the Patio of the Oranges. This is a remnant of the mosque that preceded this cathedral and is the only cloister here. During the spring, it is said to smell of orange blossoms. It is very beautiful. Take note of the floor here which has many tiny canals to take water to still working cisterns as well as to water the plants around the patio and operate the fountain. These are truly ingenious.

From the patio, we exited towards the middle and headed right. There are a number of small chapels along the walls, private chapels funded by the wealthy nobels for more intimate services. Also, there is an organ which is large and beautiful. I was lucky enough to be there as it was being played and the sound is amazing. From the organ, we moved to the choir with its double rows of seats. Again, this is a place where a tour guide giving you details on what you're seeing is helpful. The family ahead of us looked at everything and came out saying how pretty things were. Our group came out commenting on both the beauty and how interesting things were. Across from the choir is the main chapel (Capilla Major) which is one of the oldest and most intricate in use. Past the choir and directly opposite the exit from the Patio de los Naranjos is a tomb which supposedly holds the remains of Christopher Columbus. This fact, however, is much disputed.

Up from Columbus's tomb is the Sacristy of the chalices and the Main sacristy, the chapter house and the treasury. These are gorgeous treasure troves of beautiful paintings, holy relics and items used in worship. It is here you will see the golden altar piece which is taken out and marched in the street at Corpus Cristi. There is more here in these four rooms than one can begin to express. It is here where there are items small enough to be appreciated without overwhelming. And yet, some of these items are indeed overwhelming to see. The intricate workmanship and loving care that has gone into making these items is astonishing.

Finally, there is the Giralda. This is now the church's bell tower. Once the minaret of a mosque, it is light and airy to look at. There are 35 ramps (not stairs) leading to the top. Ramps are used because horses were used to climb it at one time. If you are in reasonably good shape, it shouldn't be to bad a climb and the view of the city is worth it. Our tour guide did not accompany us up, but there was another tour guide at the top with her group who pointed out sites of interest. The Giralda is the symbol of the city and whether from inside or outside, it's worth seeing.

Our next stop was the Alcazar which is directly across from the Cathedral It is the oldest royal residence of the Spanish Kings and dates from the Almohade times. Although little remains of its original Moorish creation, the Moorish style is beautiful. It is hard to know where to look in this place. The ceilings are gorgeous. The walls are amazing mosaics. The carving is astounding. The courtyards and the gardens are light and beautiful. Again, as with the Cathedral, having a good tour guide changed the response to what one was seeing from "Oh pretty!" to "Oh wow!"

Our tour ended in the streets of what was the old Jewish Quarter before the expulsion from Spain, a neighborhood called Barrio Santa Cruz. (Only in Spain would the old Jewish neighborhood's name translate as Holy Cross.) The narrow streets and tiny squares are enchanting. Sadly, the tour guide was able to do little here other than to show us a few flower filled courtyards.

Sadly, this was where my trip to Sevilla ended. I had to get to the train station and go to Madrid that night. Among the sites I missed this trip was a leisurely trip to Maria Luisa Park and Plaza de America, the bullfighting ring (not that I want to see a bullfight, but it's supposed to be beautiful) Cartuja Island and monastery, the Basilica of the Macarena, La Caridad Hospital in the city. Outside the city, I missed the Parque Nacional de nonana which has been declared a biospheric reserve by UNESCO. And, naturally, there is more.

If you are interested in taking a tour of Sevilla, talk to your concierge or you can book ahead directly with the tour company. The tour company that I used was Visit Tours Excursions. Their Sevilla address is Americo Vespucio 61. Their telephone number is 954-460-985 or 686-413-413. Their fax is 954-463-629. You can visit their web page at http://www.visitours~exc.com or email them at visitours@sistelnet.es. I used this same tour company's services in other parts of Spain and can highly recommend them.

If you get a chance to go to Spain, don't miss out on Sevilla. It is the most beautiful city I've ever seen. I can't wait to go back. Who knows? I might decide to stay.


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Hotel Reviews:

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Recommended: Yes

Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime