I spent three weeks in Spain last summer and tried to see it all: Barcelona, Madrid, Seville, Santander (a northern coastal resort), Cordoba, Granada, and short day trips to Toledo and the new Guggenheim in Bilbao.

Of all these places, Seville was my favorite, with Barcelona a close second. Why Seville? Because it is quintessential Spain. Before the "Catholic monarchs" Ferdinand and Isabella kicked out the Moors, and before the Inquisition, Spain housed a mixture of many cultures: ancient Roman, Hebrew, Moorish, and Spanish Catholic. In many of the old cities, you would see synagogues, mosques, and churches side by side.

Seville still has plenty of evidence of this diversity. The Cathedral of Seville, which is the second or third largest in the world, was built around a huge tower originally used by the Muslims to call the faithful to prayer. You can still climb this tower, called the Giralda, today. (I got dizzy near the top.) The cathedral itself has a spectacular ceiling and choir, and there are, of course, the requisite little altars sprinkled around the perimeter. The cathedral also houses a tribute to Cristofo Colombo.

The other truly stunning edifice is the Reales Alcazares, a Moorish Palace that was taken over by Ferdinand and Isabella. (It's now one of the many official residences of the royal family of Spain.) There are beautiful examples of Moorish architecture, garden design, sculptures, etc.

You can wander through the extremely narrow, cobblestoned streets of the old Jewish quarter, where you'll find brightly-colored, well-kept homes with gorgeous flower gardens. I recommend taking this walk to find the House of Pilates, a nobleman's home that was based on Roman and Moorish architecture and design. It also has beautiful gardens.

The food is fantastic in Sevilla, too. Some regions of Spain specialize in seafood, and others in roasted meat, but Sevilla has it all, including the best gazpacho in Spain. The hotel we stayed at, Los Seises, is right in the city center, a short walk from the Reales Alcazares, the Cathedral, and other destinations listed in Fodor's. Their breakfast is included in the price, and what a breakfast! They had omelets made to order as well as breads, pastries, cheese, meat, fruit--you name it. (I recommend eating lunch and dinner elsewhere, though. There were better restaurants with cheaper prices within short walking distance of the hotel.)

Sevilla is also a big center for flamenco dancing, and there are plenty of shows. It's also the second biggest center for bullfighting (after Madrid). I considered going, but after watching it on T.V., I decided I didn't want to watch an animal being tortured slowly. (My 7-year old was gravely disappointed.)

To really appreciate this city, you need to WALK. I considered this city (like Madrid) very safe for a mother and daughter to walk around at any time of night. The only exception to walking that I would recommend is the horse-drawn carriage rides. On one very hot night, our family took a horse-drawn carriage ride at midnight, and we got a great tour of the city center. It cost about $40 for a 45-minute ride, and it was worth it. (You can hire a driver in front of the Cathedral.) Taxis are plentiful, too, if the heat or the cobblestones get to you. (The Sevillanos joke about the tourists and their constant requests for water, but drink up anyway!)

Recommended: Yes