Review Topic:  Sights & Attractions

When stepping foot into Seville, it's hard not to expect to see Don Juan wooing throngs of women, Bizet's Carmen stirring controversy, or the shop sign of Rossini's famous fictional barber. What you will see is a city with a passion for life, romance, and sunshine.

Serviced by the muchly lauded Ave train, Seville is an easy getaway from Madrid's Atocha Station. The train ride is fast and comfortable and lasts just over two hours. Once in Seville, I was overwhelmed by its character and atmosphere.

We stayed at the Hotel Simon, which is just a couple of blocks from the Catedral and in the heart of everything. The hotel itself was once an 18th century house. Now a no-frills favorite, its 29 different rooms are all situated around an Andalucian patio. We felt privileged to be granted not only a rotary dial telephone but air conditioning between the hours of 3:00 pm to 9:00 pm despite the sultry mid-September temperatures.

Seville is divided into two primary districts: El Arenal and Santa Cruz. Within these two areas, there is plenty to see, do, and eat. Among the main attractions of El Arenal is the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, Hospital de la Caridad, and the Torre del Oro. The Plaza de Toros is not only the home to the weekend bullfights held from April to October, it also houses a museum that pays homage to the history of bullfighting and its revolutionaries. The Hospital de la Caridad is a hospital church and is an example of Sevillian Baroque architecture. The Torre del Oro, or Tower of Gold as it is translated in English, sits on the banks of the Guadalquivir River. Once a defensive lookout, a gunpowder store, a chapel, a prison, and port offices, it now houses a maritime museum. El Arenal also has a tablao of the same name nestled in its streets. Labeled "The Best Flamenco in Seville" in 1984 by the New York Times, it offers a dinner and a fascinating flamenco show.

Santa Cruz boasts the Catedral, La Giralda, and the Reales Alcazares among its star attractions. The Gothic Cathedral (free admission on Sundays) is the third largest Christian church in the world and is the supposed home to Christopher Columbus' remains. According to more recent accounts, his actual remains are resting somewhere in the Dominican Republic and the tomb within the Catedral contains the bones of his son Diego. La Giralda is possibly one of the most recognized landmarks in Spain. It was named for the 16th-century bronze weather vane that crowns it. A treck up 35 1/2 ramps to the top affords visitors a rewarding view of Seville. Close by is the Reales Alcazares. The residence of Spain's royal family, it is a mudejar elaboration of an original Moorish citadel and palace. Visitors can wander the extensive and peaceful gardens graced with terraces, fountains and pavilions.

The area surrounding the Catedral and the Reales Alcazares is swimming with horse-drawn carriages. For 4000 ptas., visitors can take a 30-minute ride through Seville's heart and the Parque Maria Luisa. The park is shady, lush, and green and well worth the visit. There are various places from which you can rent bicycles as walking through it would prove to be quite exhausting.

Having undergone an extensive facelift for the 1992 Expo, Seville has reinvented itself to the delight of its residents and guests. Sharing Andalucia with its two other noteworthy neighbors Cordoba and Granada, Seville reigns supreme. It is a charming city which I wouldn't hesitate to revisit.



Recommended: Yes