Belize - Rainforests, Ruins, And Reefs!
Written: Feb 25 '07 (Updated Mar 18 '07)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Pristine rainforests, exotic wildlife, and the 2nd largest barrier reef in the world!
Cons: Very poor infrastructure, high crime in Belize city, lots of insects!
The Bottom Line: A haven for eco-tourism! A favorite diving destination but don't forget to explore the magnificent interior of Belize.
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| whalewatcher's Full Review: Belize |
For a tiny country, just slightly larger than Massachusetts and with a population of less than 300,000, Belize is surprisingly diverse. Although it might still seem like a third world country, a fast growing tourist industry and the recent discovery of oil are bringing an otherwise stagnant economy new life and much needed cash. Especially for the eco-tourist, Belize is a fascinating place. It has the longest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere, its coastline is dotted with secluded little islands, fishing is excellent, and the sparsely populated interior is a host to pristine rainforests, jungle wildlife, extensive cave systems, and fascinating Mayan ruins.
Belize's multiracial population is as colorful as its history which dates back to 1500 BC when the Mayan civilization first established itself and thrived until 1200 AD. Today, almost half of the population is Mestizo (mixed Mayan and European), a quarter is Creole (African and European), 10% are still true Mayans, and there is a small percentage of Garifuna (Afro-Amerindian). The rest is made up of Europeans, Chinese, East Indians, Middle Easterners, and North Americans.
Formerly known as British Honduras, Belize gained its independence in 1981 but is still a member of the British Commonwealth. English is the official language but Spanish is widely spoken by the locals, along with Creole. The exchange rate is fixed at 2 BZ Dollars for $1 US, with the US Dollar widely accepted and often preferred.
Belize City is the largest city with a population of over 60,000 and, for most travelers, it is the gateway to other destinations within the country. The city is racked with crime and therefore not particularly suitable for longer stays. It does have a nice museum which for some strange reason is closed on week-ends but we really didn't find much else of interest. A couple of decent hotels, the Radisson and the Princess Hotel which has a casino, grace the waterfront but, overall, the city is poor, somewhat dirty, and the roads are in dire need of repair. Market Street caters mainly to passengers from cruise ships but does have some okay restaurants/bars along the water, as well as the typical shops associated with cruise ship destinations and where vendors can get a bit aggressive. Belize's charm really lies elsewhere and you'll find that most travelers head out of town almost immediately.
Because of the threat of hurricanes, the capital was moved from Belize City inward to Belmopan (population 14,000) which has yet to make a name for itself. This becomes immediately clear when landing at Belmopan's 'airport' which, unlike Belize City's International Airport, consists of only a single short landing strip (we arrived in a small Cessna), a tiny open structure with a thatched roof and probably only used as rain shelter, and not a soul in sight. Initially, it's somewhat of a shock since one doesn't expect it in the capital, but it's wonderful to just climb out of an airplane, have someone hand you your bag, and off you go. There is something to be said for the simple life!!
We booked the first half of our two-week journey with Wilderness Travel (www.wildernesstravel.com) and began our adventure in Belize City, where we spent the first night at the Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina where we met up with our 5 travel companions. But don't expect the usual Radisson amenities here, I would give this place 3 stars at best although the first thing we learned from our driver who picked us up at the airport was that Bill Gates chose this hotel during his visit to Belize (reserved 2 top floors!) and that it is the finest hotel in Belize City. Well, you couldn't prove it by me but that's a subject for another review.
Early the next morning, we headed north-west from the flat and swampy coastal area, which gave way to farms and sugarcane plantations, to Orange Walk Town, where we boarded a small boat and set off for a 25 mile journey on the New River, which is the main access route to the Lamanai Archaeological Reserve. Melvis, our local guide showered us with a wealth of information but, most importantly, he had a keen eye for wildlife and we saw everything from crocodiles, a 5 foot Green Iguana high up in a tree, a myriad of exotic birds including the Wood Stork, the much larger Jabiru Stork guarding its nest (this bird has the wingspan of 9-10 feet and the height of an average man!), Jesus birds which appear to walk on water as they step from lily pad to lily pad, snail kites, the perfectly camouflaged Nightjars and tiny Proboscus Bats which we weren't able to see until we were almost on top of them. Not to mention the impressive 3 ft tall Great Currasow and the equally large Crested Guan, which sports a bushy crest on its head and a bright red dewlap.
Lamanai, which in Mayan means 'submerged crocodile', is nothing short of impressive and we could see its 10-story temple rise high above the jungle canopy before we arrived. It's the largest ruin of the Pre-Classic Mayan world and dates back to 500 BC. Climbing this immense structure in the tropical heat is no easy task but the views from the top across the ancient Maya world are breathtaking, not to mention that our successful ascent (with the help of a rope) was accompanied by the deafening noise from a troop of nearby howler monkeys. Just a small percentage of the structures at Lamanai (there are 8 major plazas with surrounding structures!) have been exposed so far and who knows what treasures still lie beneath the thick blanket of jungle vegetation.
Surprisingly, we just about had the place to ourselves which was wonderful. There is a small museum which gives an excellent overview of Lamanai's history and houses many of the artifacts retrieved so far. After a delicious picnic along the New River Lagoon (local cuisine & compliments of Melvin's wife), we were met by a van to continue our journey south-west to spend three glorious nights at Chan Chich, a fabulous jungle lodge tucked away in a 250,000 acre private nature reserve.
For the most part, the roads were not paved. In places, they were outright treacherous with huge potholes and often so muddy, we barley fish-tailed our way through. But, we managed not to get stuck, even enjoyed the scenery which included a stretch along the Mexican Border, then continued through the fertile lands along the Rio Bravo, settled by Mennonites. Apart from several impressive and very successful Mennonite farms, there was little going on in this remote part of Belize and it was funny to hear locals refer to these industrious Mennonites as 'Mechanites' since, unlike them, they own expensive farm machinery, even a couple of crop dusters!
Along the way, we encountered Coatimundi, scampering up a hill in large numbers, their enormously long tails sticking straight up in the air. Once we entered the Rio Bravo Conservation and Management Area, Whitetail Deer became abundant as well as flocks of Ocellated Turkeys, which are show stoppers with their beautiful, brilliantly iridescent feathers.
And what can I say about Chan Chich? The place is magical, a perfect jungle lodge set in the midst of an ancient Maya City and surrounded by pristine rainforest. 5 stars in my book! The 12 thatched roof and fully screened cabanas are built of native woods with wrap-around decks, hammocks, and every necessary amenity. The food is fabulous, the bar is fully stocked, and wildlife is all around you! The bird list alone includes over 350 species, but your chances of seeing one of the cats (jaguar, ocelot, puma) are good as well. We managed to see an ocelot but, unfortunately no jaguar or puma. Monkeys are a given, Howler and Spider monkeys are numerous with sightings guaranteed virtually every day. One tip, bring your ear-plugs! The Howler monkeys are famous for noisy 4 a.m. concerts which will startle you out of a deep sleep, no matter how good of a sleeper you think you are. There are lots of activities, from hikes, horseback riding, canoeing, night walks or drives, to just doing nothing, like swinging in your hammock and watching the hummingbirds dart from flower to flower or listening to the noisy chatter of the parrots flying overhead. You can also take a dip in the screened swimming pool, soak in the hot tub or, if you must, use the Internet station to connect to the rest of the world. I could write pages about this gem of a place but for those interested, check out their website: www.chanchich.com. By the way, Jimmy and Rosalyn Carter, who are avid birders, stayed at this lodge several years ago.
Barry Bowen, (Belize Coca-Cola Distributor and owner of the Belikin Beer Brewery) owns Chan Chich as well as the estate of nearby Gallon Jug, where 3000 acres are set aside for experimental farming. A small 12-seater Cessna carried us from Gallon Jug's small airstrip to Belize's capital of Belmopan (1/2 hour flight), from where we headed to Pook's Hill, a jungle lodge nestled at the foot of the Maya Mountains, just above the banks of the Roaring River and on the edge of a 9th century Maya complex. Accommodations here were more rustic but very enjoyable nevertheless, and the food was great (local cuisine). Eleven thatched cabanas with tiled floors and showers are set within a private 300 acre preserve of primary rainforest, bordering the 6,800 acre Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve.
We spent the first afternoon tubing in the crystal clear Roaring River (we had a blast), but the real reason for coming to Pook's Hill was to visit the incredible ATM cave system (Actun Tunichil Muknal), discovered in the 1980's. These intricate caves house ancient Mayan ceremonial centers, with many artifacts, even human skulls and skeletons calcified in place, as well as magnificent crystallized stalagmites and stalactites. But, this adventure is not for the faint of heart and you must be in descent shape. After a one hour hike and crossing the Roaring River three times on foot, you finally reach the mouth of the cave and, after being outfitted with a helmet and LED light, you actually swim into the cave. The water is surprisingly cold and the current can be quite strong. You remain in the water, either swimming or wading for quite some time. The footing is challenging (rocks and boulders) and wearing sneakers with good tread is best. There is also a good bit of climbing involved (including a tall ladder) and once you get up into the ceremonial chambers, it is required to take off your shoes. The terrain doesn't change so be prepared for sore feet! But, it's a small price to pay for such an incredible experience. I don't know where else you can come so close to such a sacred place with literally hundreds of artifacts still in their original environment. We spent well over 4 hours in the cave and it was definitely one of the highlights of our trip.
My advice would be to stay at Pook's Hill if you intend to visit the ATM cave. This is the closest location to it, meaning that you will be the first group to enter the cave in the morning and will have it to yourself until about mid-day, when other tours arrive from San Ignacio (much further away). It very much enhances the experience!!! Three separate groups arrived just as we left the cave and you can imagine the increased noise level, not to mention the congestion when the going gets tough. After enjoying the stillness in the cave and being able to absorb all there is in such peace and quiet, I wouldn't want to have done it any other way. Furthermore, your guide will most likely be Ben, who is based at Pook's Hill. He is nothing short of excellent and has been guiding tours into the cave since it first opened. www.pookshilllogde.com
Our trip continued by van across the border into Guatemala to visit Tikal, perhaps the most impressive Mayan Ruins in all of Central America. But that brief adventure will be the subject of yet another review.
We ultimately found our way back to Belize City, from where we embarked on the second part of our trip, which was a week's stay on Turneffe Atoll to participate in Dolphin Research conducted by the Oceanic Society. It takes about 45 minutes by boat to reach the Atoll. 30 miles long, 10 miles wide and comprised of 200 small islands, Turneffe is the largest and most biologically diverse coral atoll in the Western Hemisphere. Developed on peaks of submerged mountains, ring-like reefs surround a vast, shallow lagoon dotted with islands of various sizes. Vegetation is diverse, palmetto and coconut palms are mixed in with coastal forests, mangrove forests act as nurseries for a huge variety of fish, and seagrass beds are ideal for spiny lobsters and support a small Antillean Manatee population.
One of the most interesting residents of this area is the American salt-water crocodile which seems oddly out of place this far from shore. But they seemed to be thriving in the lagoon directly behind the research station and we spotted a 6-footer the first day we were there. Needless to say, we never ventured out without a flashlight at night!
The research station is located on the southern tip of Blackbird Caye and just a short walk from the laid-back Blackbird Caye Resort which formerly owned the 11.5 acres acquired by the Oceanic Society in 2004. Research conducted here includes coral reef studies, as well as Bottlenose Dolphin and Manatee studies.
Accommodations are fairly basic but probably as idyllic as it gets, in small cabanas (a total of 6) just a few feet from the palm-studded water's edge, each with 2 double beds, private bath and a covered front porch. Meals are served in the big, centrally located Palapa (lots of rice and beans!) which includes a small bar (run by the honor system) and shelves filled with interesting reference books. The research staff as well as the help stay in a large structure behind the guest cabanas and this is also where evening lectures and re-caps of the day are held.
Spiny-tailed iguanas are probably the most widely seen wildlife on the island and some are nearly 3 feet long. Not too happy to have to share their territory with so many others, we watched them engage in brutal, bloody fights which lasted for hours before the weaker finally gave up. Osprey, Black Hawks, herons, egrets, lizzards, even scorpions and the occasional Black Widow can be seen, along with many shore birds which stop by on their migrating routes.
Only three of us participated in the Dolphin research, whereas eight had signed up for the coral reef study. In retrospect, that might have been the better choice because we had very few dolphin sightings which made us question this particular location as a site for ongoing dolphin research. It is conducted by boat and primarily in the central lagoon which is the feeding and calving ground for about 150-200 Bottlenose Dolphins which are smaller than the ones we are accustomed to seeing on the East Coast here in the US. Therefore, finding them is like looking for a needle in a haystack in an area covering 300 square miles. However, if you do spot them, and especially those that are just 'milling around' and are not accompanied by calves, you are allowed to get in the water with them in an effort to identify their gender (yep, they told us how!). We only had one of those encounters and however brief it was, I was in 7th heaven!
We had the opportunity to snorkel several times and it was quite good. Unfortunately, we are a bit spoiled having been in the South Pacific where the coral is so much more colorful than in the Caribbean. Nevertheless, the reef is host to a great variety of fish, sponges are abundant and provide an ideal feeding ground for Hawksbill Turtles, and the many secluded beaches are favorite nesting grounds for the Loggerhead and Green Sea Turtles. Our only regret is not having had the opportunity to go out to the Blue Hole which is not very far from Blackbird Caye.
For the most part, the area is still untouched, except for a few small resorts and some fishing camps which are located on leased government land. Scuba diving, snorkeling and sport fishing are the main tourist attractions, while local fishermen focus on lobster, conch, finfish, and grouper.
Overall, a great time in paradise, with air and water temperatures consistently in the 80's while winter raged here at home, burying everything under a thick blanket of ice and snow!
Especially for adventure travelers, Belize is a jewel. 41% of the country consists of protected areas which includes seven UNESCO world heritage sites. Add the history and mystery of a once thriving Maya civilization, and the opportunities are endless. Considering the fact that Belize is still a rather poor country, it is by no means cheap. But, we found the people to be friendly, proud of their beautiful country, and all hoping for a brighter future and a less corrupt government. That part seems to be the same the world over!
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
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Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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