Santiago - in the shadow of the Andes
Written: Dec 04 '99 (Updated Dec 04 '99)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: The view of the Andes, the wine, the food and the people.
Cons: Expensive flights.
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| Rob.'s Full Review: Santiago |
Santiago demands attention, just as the magnificent Andes Mountains do in the background. The Andes make a magnificent backdrop, dominating the eastern skyline. As the sun sets the view is incredible, the snow on the summits glow with the last rays of sunlight and the deep shadows enhance the silhouette of the mountains.
Bustling and busy, modern democratic Santiago seems very happy with itself. The busy streets are filled with well dressed people. The streets, stores and restaurants are all very clean, the transportation system efficient and reliable
Democracy serves Chile very well, everybody I met seemed quite happy, the future looks bright for Santiago and Chile. I did not see too much 'smog' - it is as if the smog has gone, leaving a happy city beneath. We visited during the Presidential Elections - everybody seems optimistic about the future. Chile is one of the wealthiest South American countries and it shows - banks and commerce are on every block in downtown. I felt under-dressed in shorts and T-shirt, whilst all around business men rallied to work in full suits, the ladies likewise in beautifully matching business attire.
The people:
I found everybody friendly, good humored and warm. Most are happy to live in Chile and rightly so! The language is Spanish, however you will find some who speak English.
Restaurants:
You will find a wonderful array of restaurants ranging from Chilean, Peruvian, Mexican, Spanish, American. And yes - you will find McDonalds, Burger King and KFC in Santiago!
Okay - so you simply have to try the local cuisine - I recommend the seafood - salmon and sea-bass, plus congra if you are in the mood. All the beef dishes are also exquisite.
As for the best beverage - obviously there are a full range of Chilean wines. I preferred the red wines (vino tinto), particularly Undurraga (Valle Del Maipo). We tried the Cabernet Pinot - meant to be a new variety of grape. Starting at a little more than US $1 in the shops and US $3 in restaurants - the wine is just too tempting.
You will also very much enjoy the most popular Chilean aperitif - Pisco. Be prepared it is strong and certainly gives you a 'warm' glow!
I did not try any clubs or bars this time. Instead I preferred the cuisine, and so I mostly spent the evenings in the restaurants, trying the seafood, meat and wine. It is only now that I have to work off these excesses!
Our favorite restaurants were:
Cocoa Restaurant, this small elegant restaurant serves Peruvian cuisine. Located on Lastarria 297 - a small pedestrian cobbled street. Quite a new restaurant, two levels, with excellent service, fine cuisine. Very intimate - go there in the evening and enjoy a candle-lit meal. Phone: (56-2) 632-1272.
Isla Negra Restaurant, this larger modern restaurant serves Chilean Food. Located on Ave. El Bosque Norte 0325, Las Condes. It is quite expensive, however it is great for larger groups, and puts you in the mood for a visit to La Isla Negra (the village located to the southwest on the coast - where Pablo Neruda lived for many years - see my separate review soon). The food is very good - I recommend the seafood here. Phone (56-2) 231-3118
Aji Verde is our favorite Chilean Restaurant, serving fabulous beef, lashings of smooth sauces. This together with the very best hospitality and warmness from the people made for a great evening. Located near the Parque Metropolitano near the hillside at Constitucion 284, Providencia, they can be reached by phone: (56-2) 735-3329
Fast Food: There are many great local 'fast food' restaurants for lunch and less expensive meals. Very inexpensive 'combo' meals, my favorite was the combo including a pint of beer…
Coffee Bars: Finally make sure you see the coffee bars. Serving some of the best coffees I have ever tasted. You stand at the bar, served by well dressed ladies.
Places to see:
Cerro San Cristobal and Parque Metropolitano. Overlooking the whole city is the statue of Mary on the summit of this hill. A funicular runs to the top of the hillside, leaving a short climb to the statue and the most spectacular views of Santiago. You can also take the cable car (teleferico) to this place. Many people go up in the funicular and down using the cable car. Close to the summit is a 'grotto' containing candles, prayers and symbols - in praise of the statue above.
Iglesia Catedral (the Cathedral) is slightly faded on the exterior, but similar to most Spanish Cathedrals it is both glorious and hallowed from within. The altar, and the statue of Mary - bedecked in glowing white lights are awe inspiring. The stained glass windows would bestow beauty on any European or American church. Beautiful, it is located at the north end of Paseo Ahumada (the pedestrian main street). With over seventy percent of the population being Catholic - this Cathedral is their main church.
Plaza De La Constitucion and Palacia de la Moneda (now the Presidential Palace) are very formal. The plaza has many statues of Chilean heroes (O'Higgins etc), and is really the center of downtown Santiago. The palace overlooks the plaza, and is a great example of fine architecture. Unfortunately there is no public access to the Palace. However you can watch the changing of the guard at 9am to 10am almost every day.
Paseo Ahamuda is the main shopping street. It is pedestrian only and a great place to spend a full day. Browsing in and out of the shops, you will see many of the great coffee bars, local 'fast food' restaurants, there are some top class department stores - my favorite is Falabella.
Templo San Francisco, this is the oldest church still standing in Santiago. Earthquakes have damaged and destroyed many of the older buildings. This church is very plain from the outside, but inside you can marvel at the rich works of art - windows and statues are everywhere. Again the statue of Mary is the most prominent piece.
The Museo de Arte Precolombino shows some of the very best artworks, displaying in a beautiful building, the whole history of Santiago and Chile. This is located on Paseo Ahumada.
Parque Cerro Santa Lucia is a great hill-park. Great views from the summit and the Hidalgo Fort at the top. The cannon fires every day at midday! It is a good place to rest and watch the city go by. Located just by Alameda Street on Ave. del Libertador Bernado O'Higgins.
Getting Around:
The bus service is incredible. Not content with having one great service - you are provided with TWO services - Pullman (purple/pink buses) and Tur-Bus (green buses). Both services provide an excellent, regular service. The rates are inexpensive for such a regular service, approximately US $3 for a two hour trip.
The Tur-Bus service seems to offer more destinations and was our favorite. The only thing to be aware of - look on your ticket for your seat assignment - otherwise you will find yourself having to shift seats in the middle of your journey!
You can get return tickets - great for a day trip, these work out slightly cheaper.
The Bus Terminus is located on Alameda, just west of downtown.
I did not try the Metro System, however it looks clean and substantial - covering most of the center of Santiago.
Ski Resorts:
Just over one hour away are several ski resorts. Probably the most famous is Valle Nevado, in the Andean mountain range. There are over 40 miles of trail, 41 ski lifts, and seven restaurants plus hotels. There is a ski school, full rental facilities. Contact them at:
Valle Nevado, Gertudis Echenique 441, Santiago. Phone: (56-2) 206-0027. Website: http://www.chilnet.cl/vallenevado
Good Shopping:
Prices are quite good in Santiago, obviously more expensive than surrounding towns. Most shops are closed between 2pm and 3pm, however they do stay open into the evening.
You must locate some good CDs whilst in Santiago. You can find good music at the small stalls - get them to play the CD for you, then buy! I liked the traditional Latin music, you also see a heavy Mexican influence in the music.
As mentioned Falabella is the best Department Store, stocking everything!
To get books in English (although the selection in English is limited) - try Feria Chilena Del Libro on Huerfanos 623, phone (56-2) 639-6758
There are some large shopping malls - the largest of which is located on Ave. Kennedy 5413. Called Parque Arauco Shopping Center - it boasts over 280 shops and is the largest mall in Santiago. It is the place to go if you just cannot wait to get your Polo Ralph Lauren or Versace.. You will find many upscale boutiques which sell the latest in fashion.
I strongly recommend buying some of the local chocolates, my favorite was Garoto, you can buy bars or boxes of chocolates (I bought both). Surely they cannot be better than Swiss chocolates?
Where to stay:
There are hundreds of hotels, prices are good, I walked into many hotels, all seemed clean and reasonable. Rooms to fit any pocket are here starting with US $20 hostels.
However - I was incredibly lucky to stay at what is probably the best hotel in Chile, also probably the most expensive. I stayed at Hotel Carrera, Teatinos 180. Phone: (56)-2-6982011. Fabulous luxury, bell-boys, seventeen floors, with a swimming pool and restaurant on the top. Air conditioning and wonderful service. Stunning views across the city and of the distant Andes to the east. Close by across the Plaza De La Constitucion is the Palacio De Moneda. Prices are hefty though starting at over US $250.
Websites: some good websites follow:
http://www.chile.com
http://www.chile.cl
http://www.chilnet.cl
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
Rob.
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Member: Robert Martindale
Reviews written: 22
Trusted by: 140 members
About Me:
An original member - alive and kicking again...
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