I think that I expected a sprawling, crowded, possibly very dirty city - or at least a city with a heavy military presence. It wouldn't have been that bad, really. It would have been not that much different from most other Latin American cities and certainly on par for the capital of a country embroiled in a decades-long civil war.

What I found was none of the above. Well, maybe sprawling.

Bogota is big, about 7 million people, but it does not feel unmanageable or even that unfriendly. It is clean and modern and dotted with hundreds of parks, large and small, with abundant trees and flowers. Parts of it felt like they were lifted right out of Miami. That's not to say that it is a perfect place, but it is well above average.

We arrived in mid-January, which weatherwise doesn't really mean much of anything. The weather in Bogotá rarely changes: generally sunny and pleasant, with highs in the 60's or 70's, chilly at night. We stayed at a small but charming hotel called Hotel Casablanca 93, located in the northern part of the city on Calle 93, near Avenida 18. The rooms were small but cozy, and the staff was incredibly friendly and helpful. And breakfast was included.

The location made it an easy walk or an even easier cab ride to Parque 93, a hub of nightlife with no shortage of delicious food options. (In addition to traditional Colombian fare - which is very heavy on the meat - we also sampled gourmet pizza at a place called Archie's and sushi at Wok Star.) Parque 93 also features an ample array of high-brow bars and nightclubs.

Another worthwhile visit in northern Bogotá is Usaquen. A formerly independent town until it was swallowed up by the city, Usaquen's town square features a quaint church, shady palm trees, and cobblestone streets, as well as colorful flea markets on Sunday and a handful of very good restaurants, including Cafe La Tienda, right on the square and boasting an exhaustive menu with everything from arepas to salads to pasta.

Transportation to other parts of the city is simple: taxi. The official yellow taxis are absolutely everywhere, and the pricing is metered (which is something you learn to appreciate after bargaining for cab rides in other large cities.) Prices are also generally comprable to buses. Actually, the bus system is being transformed in Bogota. What had been a system choked by diesel fumes and dozens of competing bus companies - typical for many Latin American cities - is gradually being usurped by the modern and clean TransMilennio. TransMilennio is a strelatively new bus system that runs in designated lanes and, according to friends I know, has had a dramatic and measurable effect on the traffic and its subsequent pollution. (Years ago, Bogota implemented a system similar to Mexico City, through which traffic was restricted to cars with odd- or even-numbered license plates, depending on the day: a quirky and inefficient system that relies on inconveniencing thousands of drivers each day. That system has since been retired in Bogota.) TransMilennio is far from exhaustive, but it continues to expand and is a very viable option for well-traveled routes. Depending on where you want to go, it is definitely worth a second look.

Also, speaking of alternative transportation, it is worth noting that Bogota closes down several miles of major north-south and east-west arteries to car traffic each Sunday. Instead, the streets are filled with bicycles, roller bladers, and runners. And I mean, filled. In a way that I have never seen in the United States. I found that hopeful.

As for sights, Bogota has its share.

Other reviews have mentioned the Museo del Oro (Museum of Gold), located very close to the Plaza Bolivar in downtown. The museum is relatively small, but it is still impressive. Most of the artifacts in the museum are, not surprisingly, gold, but the goal of the museum is as much about trying to tell the stories of Colombia's indigenous cultures, of which there are several, as it is about showcasing the gold. Displays are complemented by commentaries about the tribes: their dress, their rituals, their hierarchies, their religions. It is fascinating, and the level of detail on some of the artifacts is not to be believed.

The Plaza Bolivar is a central plaza in downtown Bogota, although aside from a being a convenient meeting place, there is not much to it: a cathedral, the National Assembly, the municipal offices, and the Palace of Justice (home of the Supreme Court) ring the plaza, which is otherwise pretty much a parking lot. That said, it is worth noting that the architecture is beautiful, and that the architecture of the Palace of Justice is distinctly more modern. The reason for this is that the original building was stormed in 1985 by guerrillas, who succeeded in taking the entire Supreme Court hostage and made demands of the government, confident that they were unassailable. Alas, they were wrong. After three days, the army lay siege to the building, destroying it and killing everyone inside. Unfortunately, there is no visible memorial to the massacre's victims, probably because the war that spawned it remains unresolved.

Behind the National Assembly, just off the Plaza, is the President's Residence. (It may have a fancier name, but I don't know it.) You can stroll down the side streets and admire the lushly manicured grounds, but you are absolutely prohibited from getting too close or taking any pictures. It is understandably under heavy guard.

Not far from Plaza Bolivar, a little to the east and an easy walk, is La Candelaria, the oldest section of Bogotá, with narrow streets and a handful of restored colonial houses. A must-see is the Donacion Botero, a collection of paintings and sculptures donated to the Banco de la Republica, including more than 100 works by Francisco Botero, one of Colombia's most well-known and celebrated artists whose trademark is to depict all of his subjects (from people to horses to fruit) as festively plump or full-figured. There is even a reinterpretation of the Mona Lisa in one of the front rooms. The collection also includes sketches by Picasso and works by Matisse, Monet, and others.

Perhaps the most breathtaking stop in Bogota, however, is the crest of Monserrate, a mountain that rises an additional 800 meters above downtown and which is reachable by stairs, train, or cable car. On Sunday, hundreds of pilgrims climb the stairs, some of them on their knees (as a way to coax a miracle from the Shrine of the Fallen Jesus at the top.) If you want to climb, make it a Sunday, in the company of the pilgrims. Any other day of the week - or to preserve your stamina - take the cable car. The ride is inexpensive (about $3) and quick. The view from the top is unsurpassable. The scale of the city is immediately obvious and overwhelming, but so impressive. I couldn't stop starting at it. In addition to the view, there is the aforementioned shrine, as well as a very classy restaurant.

For a quick trip outside the city, consider Zipaquira, a small town about an hour north of the city. Buses run extremely regularly and leave from the northernmost station on the TransMilennio system. The trip takes 40 minutes to an hour and costs about $3. Zipaquirá, like practically every town in Latin America, has a quaint plaza and impressive church, but the real reason to visit is the Catedral de Sal, the Cathedral of Salt. Actually, it is a cathedral that has been carved out of a salt mine, but the rock is 80% salt, so I suppose that counts. It is dark and features lots of mood lighting, designed to appear both haunting and hallowed, but it is truly exceptional. The mine and cathedral are embedded well into a hill that rises just outside the town but which is easily walkable (or even easier by taxi.) Admission is roughly $6.

And while you're out that way, you may elect to visit Guatavita, home of Laguna de Guatavita, also known as the Sacred Lake. Word has it that the bottom of the lake is littered with countless gold pieces, thrown in as part of an ancient indigenous religious ceremony. Conquering Spaniards tried a hundred different ways of draining the lake and recovering the treasure, all failed. Now, the lake sits in relative peace, scene to verdant fauna and all around tranquility. For this reason, access is carefully restricted, and we were unable to visit this trip, but it is near the top of the list for next time. (We settled instead for a stroll around a reservoir nearby the town of Guatavita. It was also exceptionally beautiful. And at the bottom of the reservoir sits the old town of Guatavita.)

Two final words:

First, language. It has been said already, but a rudimentary knowledge of Spanish is very, very helpful here. Despite being a large and reasonably modern city, relatively few people speak or understand English. Few signs or menus have translations, either. Take a quick course or at least familiarize yourself with some simple phrases. It will pay dividends, I assure you.

Second, safety. Bogota is a densely populated urban center, and with that comes some level of crime. Visitors, especially ostentatious ones, are particularly susceptible to crimes like theft. However, Bogotá is a vastly more safe city now than it was a decade ago. Other parts of the country remain susceptible to the realities of a modern - and brutal - guerrilla war, but strolling the streets of Bogotá, you would never know it. It is by no means unaffected, but it is almost remarkably insulated from the effects of the war, at least relatively speaking.

All in all: a very pleasant surprise. So pleasant, in fact, that I would go out of my way to recommend it to anyone. Bogota is a beautiful city, filled with exceptionally kind and accommodating people.

Recommended: Yes

Best Suited For: Friends
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime