The Galapagos Islands - Evolution's Laboratory, And Boobies Galore!
Written: Mar 27 '03
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Up close and personal experiences with the animals, cruising on the Galapagos Explorer, knowledgeable naturalists!
Cons: None!
The Bottom Line: Darwin's Enchanted Islands - a living laboratory and a one of a kind natural treasure - unforgettable, a must for any nature lover!
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| whalewatcher's Full Review: Galápagos Islands |
To say that our recent trip (March 2003) to the Galapagos Islands exceeded our expectations, is an understatement. Our 3 week long South American adventure included many unforgettable experiences, both in Peru and on the mainland of Ecuador, but the culmination of our trip was, no doubt, visiting the enchanted islands of the Galapagos.
In spite of all we had heard, read, or seen in nature films about this remote spot on Earth, nothing quite prepared us for the utter uniqueness of each individual island, for the astounding geology, or for the absolute fearlessness of the animals toward man. I vividly remember my ecstatic reaction after our first snorkeling experience, when sea lions joined us in the water and exhibited their incredible acrobatic swimming skills so close to us that we could actually make eye contact. As it turned out, it was just one of many thrills to come.
The geology of the Galapagos Islands is as fascinating and unique as their flora and fauna. Located approximately 620 miles west of the mainland of South America and straddling the Equator, many of the islands are tips of very large submarine volcanoes, whereas some were created by uplifts through the shifting and pushing of two submarine ridges which collide here, creating what is called the 'Galapagos Hot Spot'. Furthermore, the Nazca Plate, which is responsible for the formation of the Andes Mountain Range, lies directly south of the islands. Its continued eastward movement (2 cm per year) also contributed (and still does) to the formation of these islands. For example, some of the relatively new islands, such as Fernandina and Isabela, still experience significant volcanic eruptions. Some occurred in the 1960's, and as late as 1997 and 98.
Each island has very different geological features, even the types of lava vary, and the presence of huge calderas, cinder and tuff cones, lava tubes, fumaroles, and immense lava fields, often give an almost ghostly 'moonscape' appearance. We were especially fascinated by the fumaroles, which are volcanic vents emitting steamy hot, sulphur-like gases. Some were almost too hot to touch, as we experienced on the volcano 'Sierra Negra' on the island of Isabela. But more on that later.
Other major contributors to the uniqueness of the Galapagos are the marine currents, which significantly impact the climate. Three major currents join here, primarily the 700 km wide Humboldt or South Equatorial Current, providing cold and nutrient rich waters from Antarctica, and the Panama or North Equatorial Current, bringing the warm waters from the north. They collide here and travel west, only to meet up with a third submarine current, called the Cromwell Current or Equatorial Undercurrent, which travels on an eastward path from the central Pacific and brings cold and saline waters. Although the water temperature was generally close to 80 degrees F during our stay, we could sometimes feel the mingling of warm and cold pockets, especially at Fernandina and Isabela, the two westernmost islands.
There are two distinct seasons in the Galapagos, the cool season (June to November), and the warm season (December to April). Most travelers want to know which is the best season for visiting the islands. Unfortunately there is no easy answer, although I know which one I prefer. Let me first say that there is plenty of wildlife to see, regardless of the time of year. Your ultimate decision might depend on how much time you want to spend in the water.
The cool season, also called 'garua', is preferred by some. Colder waters create a temperature inversion which results in frequent 'misting', low hanging clouds which can transform otherwise barren looking areas in the highlands into a green, lush landscape. The coastal areas are usually dry during this period. This is when the majority of the birds will nest, including the magnificent Waved Albatross, the largest bird in the Galapagos. 12,000 pairs are known to return each year to the southern island of Espinola. To witness their elaborate behavior during courtship must be quite a spectacle, which is said to include 'formal' dancing and extensive bill clacking. They leave the area during the warmest months, and not even one straggler had stayed behind for us to observe.
Marine mammals are also more active and numerous during the garua season, since colder waters provide more nutrients. The number of whale sightings increase, and sea lions will be a the height of their breeding season.
But there is a lot to be said for the warm season. Water temperatures are pleasant for swimming, and the use of a wet suit is not required. The visual effect of the islands and their many volcanic peaks is much more impressive with the absence of the constant mist. The chance of rain or of an afternoon thunderstorm is higher, but it only rained once and very briefly during our 7 day stay. During mid-day, the heat can get stifling, but most excursions onto the islands are scheduled during the early morning hours or later in the afternoon, leaving the noon hours for a nap, a bit of reading, or frolicking in the water. Also, it tends to be less windy during the warm season, resulting in much calmer waters, an important issue for those who suffer from sea sickness.
So, it comes right down to personal preferences. We loved the pleasant water temperature and still saw an abundance of wildlife wherever we went. The spectacular Frigatebirds with their pumped up, bright red throat pouches were just beginning their mating season, and there was no shortage of nesting 'Boobies', of the red footed, blue footed, and masked variety! Not to mention the many other amazing birds, the land and marine iguanas (it was their nesting season), sea lions, fur seals, Galapagos penguins, large Land Tortoises, giant Green Sea Turtles (also their nesting season), Lava Lizards, colorful Sally Lightfoot Crabs, and so much more.
It is important to know that the Galapagos Islands are a National Park and strict rules must be followed in an effort to keep such a fragile ecosystem intact. Visitors must be accompanied by a qualified guide and should never leave the boundaries of the trails. Nothing can be removed from the islands (not even shells), and it is prohibited to feed, touch, or disturb the animals. Especially bird nests can often be found just inches from the trail (at times even ON the trail), making it important to watch your step at all times. Sea turtles and marine iguanas nest on beaches and in sandy spots, and extra caution is necessary in those areas.
One of the most important decisions during the planning stages of the trip is which boat to choose for cruising in the Galapagos. Unless, of course, your plan is to stay on one of the inhabited islands such as San Christobal, Santa Cruz, or Isabela, and to take day trips from there.
There is quite a selection of boats, from small sailing yachts, to motorized catamarans or trimarans, to small cruise ships (100 passengers max). We labored over the decision for months, weighing the various advantages and disadvantages. There was so much to consider. A small ship is much more personable and intimate. There are fewer people, activities are most likely less regimented, and getting on shore is quicker. On the other hand, the smaller boats are much slower, limiting the number of islands you are able to visit, often missing the furthest and northernmost islands, such as Genovesa (Tower Island). Then, there is the 'comfort' thing, such as cabin space, air conditioning, adequate toilet facilities, and such. A cozy atmosphere on a small ship is great if your fellow passengers are compatible. If not, there is no getting away from them, in other words, your are stuck. This is especially true with unruly children.
As you can see, there are lots of things to be considered. At first, a large ship held no appeal for us, but after much consideration we changed our minds and opted for the Galapagos Explorer II, one of the largest vessels around. We preferred this ship's 7 day itinerary over some of the others, with visits to the islands of Espanola, Santa Cruz, Santiago, Bartholomew, Fernandina, Isabela, San Christobal, and Genovesa. Each island is very different, many with their own endemic species, different climate and vegetation zones, and varied topography. Having seen two or three islands should by no means be construed as having seen it all. If at all possible, opt for a minimum of 7 days!
The 4077 ton Galapagos Explorer II was purchased from Renaissance Cruises in 1997 and has been completely refurbished. It is fully air conditioned, and the 50 exterior cabins are spacious and comfortable with queen beds (or two singles), TV, refrigerator, and bath with shower. With its operations geared toward ecotourism, there are plenty of expert naturalists on board (Class III) and, when not on the islands, the passengers are able to participate in special conferences about the history, ecology, climate, and geology of the Galapagos. All presentations are given in both English and Spanish, separately. There is also a naturalist's room, filled with interesting reference books and charts, which is open to the public at any time.
Some of the other amenities on the ship are a small pool, a jacuzzi, massage service, a small boutique, and video and movie rentals. The breakfast buffet (superb!) and all dinners are served in the dining room, and lunch is on deck, weather permitting. For entertainment in the evening, the crew organized activities like dance lessons, trivia games, or talent shows. But since the wake-up call usually comes at 6:30 in the morning, partying at night is not high on the priority list!
Each naturalist is in charge of a group of no more than 15 people. We hit the jackpot with 'Dries', whose in depth knowledge, enthusiasm, patience, and humor never ceased to amaze us. The islands are accessed via zodiac by either a wet or dry landing, and groups are staggered to minimize the impact on the environment.
Following are the highlights of our activities and experiences on each island, as condensed as possible, and in order of our visit. Our ship departed from San Christobal, where we arrived by air in the early afternoon from Quito, via Guayaquil. The first leg of the flight was just 45 minutes, the second close to 2 hours. We flew on the Ecuadorian Airline 'Tame' on a somewhat antiquated 727-200, but it got us there! It is important to know that ALL luggage is opened and checked prior to your departure for the islands. Bringing any fruits, plants, or seeds to the islands is strictly forbidden.
The Galapagos are a province of Ecuador, currency is the U.S. Dollar, and the time zone is Eastern Standard Time.
BARTHOLOMEW
This tiny island is located just off the west coast of the island of Santiago and, perhaps, the most photographed spot in all of the Galapagos (see picture at top of page). The climb to the 350 ft high peak includes 400+ steps and is strenuous, but the magnificent views are worth it! Snorkeling around the base of Pinnacle Rock turned out to be the very BEST, and we shared the water with sea lions, penguins, even white tip sharks and a sea snake. The ocean floor was covered with hundreds of huge orange star fish, not to mention other fish such as Parrotfish, Moorish Idols, Wrasse, Angelfish, etc., many in large schools and much larger in size than those we have seen in other parts of the world. This island is a gem, and should not be missed! If you like underwater photography, this is the place for it!
SANTIAGO
The fourth largest island, Santiago, is quite impressive with its 3000 ft tall volcano. We landed at James Bay, and our hike took us across the lava fields along the shore. The scenery is stunning, sea lions and their pups were playing in the surf or sunning themselves on the rocks. Huge numbers of marine iguanas and brightly orange colored Sally Lightfoot crabs were everywhere, and birds included the Galapagos Hawk, Oystercatchers with their long red beaks, Lava Gulls, and Herons. None of the animals showed any fear, and even small birds such as the Darwin Finches can be approached and won't fly away. A photographer's dream come true! We later snorkeled with huge schools of fish, but the water was rough and the visibility limited.
The remnants of buildings from an old salt mining operation seem totally out of place here. Failing to be profitable, it was abandoned many years ago, but carelessly left behind were goats, and other introduced species such as pigs, donkeys, and rats, which have grown to pose a huge threat to the ecosystem. The same problem exists on several of the other islands, and steps are now taken to eradicate these feral animals, some of which number in the tens of thousands.
FERNANDINA
Considered by many to be the most pristine island in the Galapagos, Fernandina not only offers one of the best varieties of wildlife, but also interesting volcanic features. The shield volcanoes are still very active, with the last eruption in 1995. Punta Espinosa, on the northeast coast, is the only area open to visitors. This relatively flat area, formed by lava and sand, is the nesting site for large colonies of marine iguanas. Some were busy digging their nests, others already laying their eggs, oblivious to the world around, while some of the males engaged in nasty fights, in an effort to defend their territory.
Lots of tidepools and mangroves provide an ideal habitat for birds, crabs, and other mollusks. Since there are no feral animals on this island, it is the ideal nesting spot for the Flightless Commorant, whose short wings serve absolutely no purpose. Instead, they rely on their expert diving skills. Sea lions are numerous here. We also saw penguins and, for the first time, Blue-footed Boobies. Their large, bright blue, webbed feet are almost comical and seem too big for their bodies, making them look rather clumsy. They fish in large numbers close to shore and nest on the ground throughout the year as long as there is an ample food supply.
Fernandina is the westernmost island of the Galapagos. Your best chance of spotting whales and dolphins is here, since there is plenty of food due to upwelling. We only spotted two whales in the distance, but saw huge schools of Common Dolphins, some numbering in the hundreds.
ISABELA
Formed by five separate volcanoes, Isabela is the largest of the islands. Our first stop was at Urvina Bay, at the foot of Volcan Alcedo. This is a nesting area for the Green Sea Turtle, and we could see the many tracks leading to the various nesting sites. While snorkeling here, be prepared to come eye to eye with these giants. Busily feeding on algae and seaweed, they totally ignored our presence, even if we were only inches away. Sea lions joined us for a swim, and we also saw huge spiny lobsters and sting rays, but the water was cloudy.
A hike along the rocky shore revealed an area which was uplifted in 1954, in places by as much as 30 feet, which explains the presence of exposed coral, including some very large brain coral. Further inland, we saw several large Land Iguanas, dark yellow in color and some close to 3 feet long. They are much more imposing looking than their marine cousins.
The next morning, we went ashore in Puerto Villamil, the main settlement on Isabela. Once a penal colony, it is now a colorful little town, with fishing as its main source of income. We set off from here for an all day hike to the still active Volcan Sierra Negra. After a one hour ride in the back of a pick-up truck, past vast lava fields and, further up, lush cattle farms, the road came to an end. With lunch provisions in our backpacks, we departed on foot for the rim of the world's second largest caldera (Tanzania's Ngorongoro Crater in Africa is #1). Mid-morning the clouds burned off, giving way to splendid views all around, only to be topped by the view of the caldera itself, 1000 feet below the crater's rim. From there, we pressed on to the lava fields of Volcan Chico, on the northeast side of the caldera. Here, many still active 'fumeroles' emit hot steam and strong sulphur gases. It's an almost surreal place, barren yet beautiful, and only graced by the presence of the occasional candelabra cactus. An incredible experience, to say the least. On our way back, we stopped at the Tortoise Breeding Farm, a project run by the National Park. Well worth a visit, but we were hoping to see these giants in the wild later on. The day was capped off with a quick jump into the water at Puerto Villamil's lovely white sand beach!
SAN CHRISTOBAL
There is much to do and see on this island. We barely scratched the surface. San Christobal is populated, and Puerto Baqueriso Moreno is the second largest town in the Galapagos. Many of the Galapagos cruises depart from here and ships of all sizes can be seen anchored in Wreck Bay. The sea lions like to hang out on the small boats. It's hilarious to watch them trying to climb aboard. Even more comical were a couple of sea lions sleeping under a park bench at the edge of town! There are quite a few shops here if you are hunting for souvenirs, as well as several hotels and restaurants. The Visitor Interpretation Center is in walking distance. It is excellent and should not be missed!
We took a trip up to Laguna Junca, a 900 ft high caldera filled with fresh water. A long stairway leads up to it and the views from the top are beautiful. But, we were fogged in almost immediately and decide to skip the hike around the caldera. Instead we went out to La Loberia Beach, a favorite surfing spot of the sea lions. It is so funny to watch them surf just like humans, riding the best wave ashore, while a large number of their pups were playing together in protected coves.
Later, we snorkeled at secluded Ochoa Beach, under the watchful eye of some Blue-footed Boobies, perched on rocks nearby. Again, the water was not very clear, but we saw a large school of Cow-nosed Rays (some call them Mustard Rays because of their color), and several large Sting Rays.
ESPANOLA
This is the southernmost and one of the oldest islands in the Archipelago. It has a huge bird population thanks to a long stretch of cliffs on the southern coast. The Masked and Blue-footed Boobies nest here year around, so do the beautiful red billed Tropic Birds with their long fanning tails, and the colorful Swollow-tailed Gulls. The Marine Iguanas here are the most brightly colored. The males display their red and green colors during the mating season and are often referred to as the 'Christmas Iguanas'. The 1 1/2 hour hike along the rocky beach at Punta Suarez is fabulous. There is also a blow hole, especially impressive at high tide.
SANTA CRUZ
Home of the Charles Darwin Research Station and the Galapagos National Park offices, this island is probably the most visited. Puerto Ayora is a bustling town and its harbor the most important in the Galapagos. Shops, hotels, restaurants, banks, even a hospital, make you feel like you are back to civilization, but we decided to skip all that and headed for the highlands instead. Our goal was to see some of the Giant Tortoises in the wild. Several farmers have an agreement with the National Park to allow visitors on their lands in search of the tortoises. Not only does it provide extra income for the farmers, but it also assures that these magnificent creatures are protected. Hunted to near extinction in earlier years by settlers and whalers, the tortoises have been slow to make a come back and their survival is still threatened by the presence of the many feral animals.
Walking through lush farmland, we saw six of these incredible giant creatures, which can live to a ripe old age of about 150 years, but don't reach sexual maturity until the age of 20-25. It is quite impressive to see them in the wild, and we found them to be the shyest of all the animals in the islands, often retreating into their shells when approached.
Another great experience was to walk through an enormous, quarter mile long lava tube on the very same farm. Little did we know that we would emerge in the backyard of the farmer's home and restaurant, where we could quench our thirst with a $1 cerveza!
GENOVESA (TOWER ISLAND)
One of the most northern and most isolated islands, Genovesa is the tip of a submerged shield volcano. As barren and relatively flat as it is, we found it to be fascinating. We climbed ashore in an area called 'Prince Philip's Steps', named after Prince Philip who visited here on the RY Britannia in 1965. The steep cliff here is popular with the Fur Seals who seek refuge in the crevices. The trail on top of the cliff leads through large forests of Palo Santo trees, favored for nesting by the Red-footed Boobies. These mostly leafless trees are also called 'Holy stick', which comes from the insence-like smell when rubbing the bark. Leaves only appear during the rainy season.
Genoveso is a paradise for sea birds. All the Boobies can be found here in huge numbers, also the Great Frigatebirds, and thousands of Galapagos Storm Petrels nest in rock crevices and lava tubes. Short-eared Owls prey on the Petrels, then consume them in the same protected crevice, where large heaps of feathers and bones have accumulated over the years. An excellent source of fossils!
The beach at Darwin Bay is equally as interesting, especially the area behind it. Nesting Frigatebirds and Red-footed Boobies enjoy the area around a small lagoon. Since there are no reptiles on Genovesa, except for the Marine Iguana, the spines of the Prickly Pear Cactus are velvety soft. It needs no defense here! The adaptation to the varied environments by each plant or animal species is truly amazing.
Snorkeling is great here along the steep rock formations and, as almost everywhere else, expect the company of sea lions or fur seals!
These are truly enchanted islands, a special place which still has 95% of its original species. A National Park, a Whale Sanctuary, a Marine Reserve, a World Heritage Site, a Man and Biosphere Reserve - it is all of the above and more. Whether or not you believe in the theory of evolution, what you will learn and experience here on these islands will inspire you to think again. Nowhere else will wildlife permit you to come so close, tolerate you near its young, even swim with you without fear. Let us hope that it can be preserved as such, that man's exploitation can be kept at bay, and that we look upon these islands as a precious gift of nature, to be cherished by all.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
Reviews written: 197
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About Me:
Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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