Ecuador - an Amazing Country From the Galapagos to the Highlands
Written: Dec 27 '06
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Pros: Amazing sights throughout the country, something for everyone
Cons: Crime, poverty, need lots of time to explore, altitude sickness, malaria
The Bottom Line: Ecuador is an amazing country that has so much to offer, not just the Galapagos Islands. I dream about returning to this incredible place.
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| Javelina's Full Review: Ecuador |
In late 2004, I took a trip to Ecuador. The main goal of the trip was to visit the Galapagos Islands, about 600 miles off the west coast of Ecuador, but since we had traveled so far to get there, we decided to take advantage of visiting this country. Little did I know this would be such an amazing trip and that this country would hold such a special place in my heart. Over two years later, I still reminisce about all the places we visited.
I have written in-depth reviews on many of my travels through Ecuador, but I hope that I can summarize my overall experience in this review.
The Galapagos
The Galapagos Islands are generally toured by boat, although you can stay on two of the islands in a hotel. To get to the Galapagos, you have to fly through TAME airliens, run by the Ecuadorian military. The flight is just over an hour and you fly in to Baltra.
Choosing a tour operator can be extremely difficult. To tour the Galapagos, there are very strict rules. You must be with a certified tour guide and there are rules about staying on the trails, not making contact with wildlife, and not touching/taking any items (e.g. sand, shells, etc).
We had actually researched this trip long before we went, and then later re-researched when we were ready to go. Chances are, you are taking a boat. We narrowed down our choices first by size range – we didn’t want a boat that was too big or too little. The biggest boat in the Galapagos is the Celebrity Expedition. However, that brings me to our second factor – length of trip. We wanted at least a week, which seemed to be the longest you can go. You need to take into account that the first and last days of your trip will be lost in travel time.
After that, you can narrow down your choices by cost. It is generally expensive to go to the Galapagos. We chose Lindblad Expeditions (www.expeditions.com) which was very expensive, but also in our eyes, very much worth it.
The Big Cities
We flew into Guayaquil, the largest city in Ecuador, located right on the coast. This was our departure point for the Galapagos. We stayed there a day and explored before our connecting flight to the Galapagos. There is a beautiful waterfront area with shopping and amazing botanical gardens, and a downtown that includes many modern areas. Had we had time, we would have loved to explore some more. We stayed in a Hilton that was very modern, and there are indeed nice places to chose from in terms of accommodations.
Quito is the second largest city in Ecuador, which we flew into after our time in the Galapagos. The city is enormous and impressive, and at over 10,000’ it is wedged between volcanoes – a sight to see when flying into Quito.
Quito is home to a major airport - Aeropuerto Mariscal Sucre, and many attractions. Some of them include the “Mitad del Mundo” or “Middle of the World” monument just outside Quito (popular and I didn’t think it was really worth it, supposedly it isn’t exactly on the Equator anyway!). “El Panecillo” is a famous statue of the Virgin Mary on a high point in Quito, and there are many historical landmarks such as “Iglesia San Francisco” (the oldest church in Quito), and the Presidential Palace. There are older versus more modern parts of Quito. Again, we stayed in a Hilton, which was very modern and just like staying somewhere in the US.
The Andes/Highlands
We headed north from Quito into the highlands and the paramo areas. We visited Cotopaxi volcano (especially popular amongst climbers), but in Ecuador you most certainly have your pick – there are quite a few volcanoes. There were so many things to see and do in the Andes. Our first included a view of Cotopaxi with llamas dotting the landscape. We even had lunch at the base of Cotopaxi with llamas walking around us.
There are many markets to choose from. One of the more popular is “Otovalo”, but we preferred to see the more typical, native markets where we actually didn’t see very many tourists. We visited Latacunga market with a guide who spoke only Spanish, and because he was familiar with the area, we were able to ask him where we could find “cuy”, or roasted guinea pig. He took us to the outer perimeter of town to a restaurant that consisted of a very small room. We paid $7 for 3 cokes, 3 guinea pigs, and 3 potato soups – and it was an authentic experience, not somewhere a tourist traditionally goes. We also visited Saquisili market on our way back to Quito, another small local market. It is easy enough to find a listing of Ecuadorian markets online, including what days they are open and so on.
There is hiking and other activities/sights to see in the Andes. We were a little tired to do any serious hiking, but there are plenty of spots to go, including a hike to the bottom of Laguna Quilotoa, a water-filled volcanic crater. We stayed at the Black Sheep Inn, in Chugchilan, where they helped arrange a horseback riding trip, which took us to a local cheese factory and then into a local forest.
The Amazon
One of the places we were interested in visiting, but did not have the time, was the Amazon. This is one of the places in Ecuador that you may want to consider getting malaria shots for, as there is a possibility of contracting malaria.
Many of the places we looked into staying are accessible by canoe only. We decided on other parts of Ecuador just because we didn’t want to have to devote the time to an extra flight and then sitting in a canoe for hours getting to a more remote area of Ecuador.
However, we did visit a rainforest area, which is probably considered the south end of the Amazon. This was about an hour east of Quito. We stayed at a cloud forest reserve (Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve), and the amount of wildlife was amazing. The area we visited had the highest concentration of hummingbird species in the world, and we saw quite a few birds.
The Coast
We visited the coast briefly during our time in Guayaquil, but there is much more coastline to explore in Ecuador. The coastline has much to offer, from beaches to cities.
Health & Safety
I did a lot of research before we left on our trip. I wanted to be sure that we were safe and healthy throughout our trip, especially because some of the stories I heard were pretty scary – muggings, kidnappings, malaria, and other dangers. We did our best to be as prepared as possible, and our entire 17-day trip was without incident. I am therefore sharing my recommendations!
~ Common Sense ~ I didn’t feel particularly in danger in Ecuador, and we just used our common sense. Play it safe, and you will probably be fine. Don't dress flashy, keep valuables locked at the hotel or keep them inconspicuous, and just stay aware at all times. There is no need to wear jewelry or have items that would unnecessarily attract thieves. However, we brought cameras and a travel laptop, and had no problems. The key was to simply keep those items hidden and secure.
~ PacSafe ~ Just looking online and in books, I read quite a few “slasher stories” - not just for Quito, but around Ecuador and South America, where muggers will slash your bags and steal your things. We took these stories with a grain of salt, but did end up running into a couple our age on our trip, who had their bags slashed. In fact, had their bags between their legs on a bus, and someone slashed their bags from the seat behind.
You don’t have to get one of these in particular, but my husband bought me this pack. It is a regular backpack, but has a built-in mesh, almost like chicken wire. The PacSafe did make me feel more secure. We always kept alert and aware, but at least I wasn’t as worried about what I couldn’t see going on behind my back. I would recommend not only my particular PacSafe pack, but their other products. For example, they sell a mesh that you can lock packs inside of and lock to something like a bedpost (www.pac-safe.com)
~ Tips from others ~ Some travelers on our trip recommended putting a piece of duct tape on your bag, and even your camera. By doing so, it will look like you have already had your stuff stolen or damaged, and can make you a less appealing target.
~ Banks & ATMs ~ We were able to find an ATM in Quito. We asked our taxi driver to take us, and he stopped along the road in front of a bank, so my husband was able to get some cash. We were very careful using ATMs but it was also nice to have them available in lieu of carrying around a lot of cash.
~ Air Quality, Altitude Sickness, Etc. ~ There was quite a bit of noticeable pollution in Quito. The busses spew out a ton of exhaust, and there is an incredible amount of traffic. We often sat in traffic waiting to make it through traffic jams. You can smell the pollution in the air, and see the haze of it as well.
And because the city is at such a high elevation, we were feeling the effects of both the altitude and pollution. I remember the first night we stayed there, I would wake up in the middle of the night catching my breath. We had not spent any time acclimatizing, since we came directly from the Galapagos. After a day in Quito, we headed even further up to Cotopaxi, which was the worst for us in terms of altitude sickness. But after a week spent in the highlands, we felt fine when we returned to Quito.
Altitude sickness manifests itself in the form of headaches, nausea/loss of appetite, shortness of breath, and feeling tired. Little did I know that there is a prescription that you can get from a doctor – and I probably would have asked for it. One of the local “cures” is drinking the “coca tea”, which is a derivative of cocaine, but of course is safe. We did drink some of the tea but didn’t notice that it helped any (at least no significant improvement).
As for the food and water, I never got sick. We stuck with bottled water and were fine. We had all the precautionary things with us just in case, but had no problems whatsoever.
~ Malaria ~ My Dr. was not concerned about malaria for the places we were visiting, and during the trip, we were told that these were not places with incidences of malaria. However, had we visited the Amazon, we would have gone ahead with the pills. It is important to know though that there are side effects to the pills, so you don’t necessarily want to take the pills unless you have the need
Weather
No matter where you go in Ecuador, sun is an issue. Even when we were standing on a glacier on Cotopaxi Volcano, there was a concern for sunburn. Just because it was cold did not mean we didn’t need to worry about the sun. Our first day in Ecuador was very overcast, but despite the clouds, we got sunburnt from walking around Guayaquil.
The water in the Galapagos can be very cool. Our tour operator provided “shorties” (wetsuits with half length sleeves/legs). The lower regions of Ecuador were warmer, while the higher were of course colder. Each region is different and the times of year of course dictate the weather. Just to note as well, when we went to the Galapagos in November, everything was dried out – the trees and plants had dried out and the giant tortoises were walking around on dry, cracked mud – as opposed to pictures I often see of lush foliage and those same tortoises submerged in marshy, muddy water.
Overall, we enjoyed the weather, the differences in climate, and the bright sun!
Food
I really enjoyed the foods of Ecuador. One of my favorite foods was their locre de papa con queso y aguacate, a traditional Ecuadorian soup made of potatoes in a cheese broth, served with fresh avocado. As a vegetarian, I enjoyed many fruits, including ones that I do not have access to at home such as granadilla and babaco. We enjoyed tostado on a regular basis, which is toasted corn kernels. One of the places we stayed, Hacienda San Agustin de Callo (incahacienda.com), served candelazo (a traditional sweet, spiced drink that can be served with alcohol), which was amazing. I was able to find plenty to eat, and my husband enjoyed all the foods he tried as well. And as I mentioned earlier, he tried fried guinea pig (he said it had a distinct flavor he didn’t like, although it was dried out and not fresh).
Packing List
- Advil, Excedrin, etc.
- Pepto Bismol, Immodium Advanced – never know when food/water will disagree with you – it could be poor food quality, or could just be adjusting to different foods
- Vitamins – to keep up my energy, hopefully keep healthy after flying, etc.
- Zinc – aids in helping with altitude sickness (thins the blood)
- Dramanine (for the Galapagos, a must) and ginger pills, which can help you with everything from seasickness to nausea from flying
- Anti-nausea liquid (such as Emetrol)
- Neosporin – I hate to overpack but I also wouldn’t have minded some Neosporin at times. I cut myself when swimming and the cut was irritated, probably from germs from the boat, the water, and traveling. It can’t hurt to be prepared.
- Spanish words/phrases book
- Water bottle – we got bottled water wherever we went, so I always made sure I had an extra on hand for when there wasn’t access to bottled water
- sunscreen – this is the equator, so even though it can be cold, the sun is very strong. We walked around on a cloudy day without sunscreen, and I got burnt! Be sure to get your ears and your lips. I burnt the tops of my ears and really regretted it.
- Waist belt – make sure your passports, money, and other important essentials are kept safe
- camera – we were very careful, but did bring our cameras. There is so much to take photos of; you would not want to miss out.
- underwater camera or underwater housing – if you are going to the Galapagos, you probably want to be able to take underwater photos. You will likely be swimming with sea lions, sea turtles, iguanas, and more!
- backpack – preferably something not flashy, doesn’t look like a camera or expensive bag. As I recommended earlier, I loved having a PacSafe pack.
Overall
Ecuador is an amazing country. It far surpassed my expectations. I figured we would see as much as we could while we were visiting the Galapagos, and I ended up falling in love with Ecuador. There is an incredible amount of things to do, and all very unique, because of all the different types of areas within this country.
I definitely recommend a decent amount of time to visit and explore Ecuador. We spent a week in the Galapagos and just over a week in mainland Ecuador. I could have easily spent weeks there. The Galapagos was absolutely amazing and was expensive – but worth it for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Mainland Ecuador was not particularly expensive, and at times we were operating on a shoestring.
I would be more than happy to share my many photos from my trip, or answer any additional questions. Drop me a line at EpinionsJavelina@hotmail.com and I will send you the links to my albums (please put “Ecuador” in the subject line so I don’t miss your e-mail).
Links to all my Ecuador reviews:
Quito, Ecuador
Galapagos Islands
Lindblad Expeditions - http://www.expeditions.com
TAME (the airline of Ecuador)
Hotel Colon Guayaquil, Guayaquil, Ecuador
Hotel Hilton Colon, Quito, Ecuador
Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve - www.bellavistacloudforest.com/
Black Sheep Inn, Chugchilan, Ecuador – www.blacksheepinn.com
Hacienda San Agustin de Callo, Cotopaxi, Ecuador – www.incahacienda.com
Useful websites:
Lonely Planet: http://www.lonelyplanet.com (check out the ThornTree Forums)
Fodors: http://www.fodors.com (has a forum as well)
Mitad del Mundo: http://www.mitaddelmundo.com/
Tigua paintings: http://www.tigua.org/
Tianguez cafe/gift shop (Quito): http://www.theethnicshop.com/sinchiing.html
TeleferiQo: http://www.teleferiqo.com/
Celia's Ecuador travel trips: http://www.xs4all.nl/~cile/travel/tips.htm#ecuador
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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