CHARMING, IN A SLEAZY SORT OF WAY, PUERTO BARRIOS GUATEMALA
Written: Feb 05 '02 (Updated May 09 '05)
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Pros: All the politically correct guide books say to avoid it.
Cons: Open sewers.
The Bottom Line: Before you even ask, of course I got into trouble in the sleazy bars. That though is another story.
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| JAMES23's Full Review: Guatemala |
Both Lonely Planet and Rough Guide say to give Puerto Barrios a miss. It's a sleazy port city on the Caribbean coast, best used to transit through as fast as possible going from Punta Gorda Belize to Honduras or vice versa. Naturally after reading that I knew I had to spend the night there.
Puerto Barrios is not as sleazy as the guide books makes it out to be. The port has been revitalised and is now a major container port which occupies the area north of Calle 9 to Calle 6. This port is incidentally in direct competition with Puerto Cortes south of it in Honduras. I was advised by an expat that this is the main reason the Honduran Government has not improved (paved) the road on their side of the border that connects the two cities.
The sleazy red light district both guide books note as being on Calle 9 no longer exists. The main danger here now is being run over by a transport truck which run all night from the container port. What is left of the old sleazy district is a collection of a dozen or so bars and strip joints up around 8th Avenue between Calle 6 and Calle 7 west of the Post Office.
Of course I speak from first hand experience regarding said sleazy bars. As soon as the sun went down and after a quick but delightful dinner, I was checking them out first hand. I was only able to examine a half dozen or so in total. This was only possible by severely limiting myself to a quick beer or two, or three in each one.
There is an ATM on the corner of 7th Aveneue and Calle 13 in the Banacafe that is open 24 hours and does accepts foreign credit cards. I noticed at least 3 other ATMs in town but did not try any. Near this ATM is an Internet cafe at the corner of 6th Avenue and Calle across from the Texaco Station. it is open until 8:00 pm and charges $3.50 US per hour. Note connection time is very slow.
The aptly named Hotel Norte at the north of the city is still the best place to stay. A single room with fan and private bath with an ocean view costs $12.50 US. The place has its own run down charm and is quite safe. They will lock up Passports etc. in their safe and a sign notes that non guests are not allowed during the night especially those of "low character."
Puerto Barrios was established by the "Guatemalan Government" in the 19th century to provide an outlet for the shipping of bananas and other produce to North American markets. The hotel was built about the same time. A little imagination and one can almost picture some white suited gringo businessman chomping on his hand rolled Havana in the hotel bar.
The bar was closed and this appears to be permanent although the dining room was open as were both pools. They are a good place to unwind after a long day of travelling. A well tipped waiter will also ensure a steady supply of cold refreshing beverages from the dining room to pool side.
Good places to eat include Restaurant Safari near 5th Avenue and Calle 1 with good seafood and chicken dishes for between $3.00 and $7.50 US. The view over the bay from this thatch roofed restaurant alone is worth the walk. Also worth visiting is the more upscale Los Delfinos at the end of Calle 9. Seafood is the speciality here and the restaurant sits on a pier out over the harbour. Meals run between $5.00 and $9.00 US. There is also live music most nights.
The Container Restuarant which is actually two stacked shipping containers, across from the Hotel Norte also has spectacular views from the top deck and is good for a quiet drink. The food however, at least based on the lunch I had, is not very good. There are also several low cost but slightly rowdy restaurants and bars near the main market area and on 5th and 6th Avenues south of Calle 9.
Taxis are plentiful in the town especially at night. All fares must be negotiated in advance. Sample fares include Immigration office to Hotel Norte $1.80 US, and Hotel Norte to the main market $2.50 US.
The Immigration office is on 2nd Avenue and Calle 9 a short walk from the dock where the Punta Gorda ferry lands. Those travelling overland to Honduras via the old "jungle route" do not have to get there exit stamps here as there is a new immigration and customs post on the highway.
For those travelling onwards there is a micro bus that leaves the main market every morning at 9:00 am for the Honduran border. It costs $1.25 US and is faster and more comfortable than the local chicken bus. Local cab drivers and mini bus drivers also meet the Punta Gorda ferry in the morning and offer to drive you to the border. Prices are negotiable and run between $10.00 to $20.00 US per vehicle.
Nearby is the main bus terminal with regular service to Guatemala City and other parts of the country. There are also a couple of ferries daily to either Livingston up the coast or Punta Gorda in Belize.
Other Articles on Guatemala
Tikal
http://www.epinions.com/content_121484906116
Montericco
http://www.epinions.com/content_2552144004
Pension Meza
http://www.epinions.com/content_55394864772
Border crossing Honduras/Guatemala
http://www.epinions.com/content_2442043524
Night Bus to Tikal
http://www.epinions.com/content_3104678020
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Singles
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Member: James Smith
Location: Toronto Ontario CANADA
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