The Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, and the Inca Trail: an unforgettable experience.
Written: Nov 23 '04 (Updated Jul 26 '05)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Amazing scenery, rich historical and cultural heritage.
Cons: Petty crime and clingy street vendors.
The Bottom Line: One of the most exciting and exotic places in the world to visit -- a trip of a lifetime.
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| verbatima's Full Review: Peru |
Although it is but a part of Peru's rich cultural heritage, the monuments of the great Inca Empire deep in the Peruvian Andes are the ones that are most alluring to travelers. This is a land of majestic mountains, cloud forests, haunting castles of a lost civilization, people in traditional dress, and colorful Indian markets. Traveling through this part of the Peruvian countryside allows visitors to experience history and culture of a truly unique part of the world, while taking a break from CNN and BBC World News.
For most people, the tour of the Sacred Valley begins in Cuzco, an ancient city located within an hour's flight east of Lima, and includes Inca citadels in the valley of the Urubamba River, such as Ollantaytambo and Pisaq, and culminates in the vastest and most famous of the awe-inspiring Inca sites -- Machu Picchu. This part of the country also allows tourists to hike to Machu Picchu along the Inca Trail, instead of taking the more traditional modes of transportation.
Why take the Trail.
According to my guide book, Machu Picchu is the most visited site in South America. Practically, this is a testimony both to its grandeur and to the annoyance which hordes of tourists cause other hordes of tourists. Although I have seen worse crowds, Machu Picchu is rather packed after breakfast, and while tour groups breathe down each others' necks, the multitudes rudely disrupt the unique spiritual atmosphere of the complex. In other words, Machu Picchu is not exactly a place for quiet reflection after, say, 11 a.m. An early arrival, however, will allow the visitor to experience the majesty of Machu Picchu without being disturbed by the crowds.
There are three basic ways to reach Machu Picchu. The first is by taking a train from Cuzco to the town of Aguas Calientes and catching a bus to the top of the mountain. The first train arrives in Aguas Calientes at approximately 10:30 a.m.; the subsequent 15-20 minute bus ride will get you to the gate at a time when the lines are already huge and the complex is swarming with tourists.
The second way is by arriving in Aguas Calientes the night before and taking an early bus at a time when the park just opens around 7:30 a.m. The third is to reach Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail at daybreak.
The Inca Trail, however, has an important additional advantage over taking a bus from Aguas Calientes. Although Machu Picchu is the best known of all Inca sites, the Sacred Valley is in fact dotted with citadels and even cities of varying size and state of preservation. Most of those citadels can be reached neither by train, nor by car -- only on foot, via a rugged, challenging trail. As a result, they receive few visitors, and possess the haunting, lonely beauty, which Machu Picchu loses to overcrowding and noise. The most impressive of these fortress-cities, in my opinion, is Winay Wayna, which hikers visit the afternoon before their final push to Machu Picchu.
A major portion of the trail is the original Inca-built highway used by messengers traveling between various citadels, including Machu Picchu. Therefore, taking the trail allows the visitor to be "like an Inca" in the sense of using the ancient road to get to the ultimate destination.
Description of the Trail and what you can expect.
Although the duration of the Inca Trail hike varies from just two days to as long as a week, and there are different points of departure, most hikers take a four-day itinerary, which begins at Km. 82, not far from the town of Ollantaytambo.
Ollantaytambo is a jewel in itself and deserves a special visit. It has romantic paved streets and clearly visible Inca foundations (sometimes as high as 6 feet off the ground), over which colonial buildings have been erected. Above the town, there are terraces, unfinished temples, and impressive irrigation systems of a sprawling, puma-shaped Inca city. Separate trails lead to well-preserved granaries on the opposite mountainside.
For the first three hours or so after setting out from Km. 82, the trail is mostly flat and easy. The second part of the day, however, is dedicated to a steep, relentless climb, which takes the hikers from the altitude of approximately 2800 to 3600 meters (9000 to 12000 feet)above sea level. About 18 kilometers (11 miles) are covered in the first day, which is the toughest of the itinerary. Day two, in which hikers walk approximately 12 kilometers (7.5 miles), begins with a steep assent to the Dead Woman's Pass at 4200 meters (13500 feet) above sea level, then a steep descent to 3600 meters (12000 feet), then another steep climb to Runkurakay, the citadel from which the real Inca Trail -- a highway built by the Incas -- begins. From there, the tough climb continues over rough-hewn stones and stairs, followed by a VERY steep descent into the jungle. On the third day, the trail, meandering through the shady cloud forest, is mostly flat or downward, but the jugged, upturned stones of the Inca highway make the hiking fairly strenuous and even painful (my toes are still hurting). On the fourth day, travelers make a brisk 2-hour hike to their final destination very early in the morning, pausing momentarily at the Sun Gate to watch the sun rising over Machu Picchu. In the afternoon, hikers catch a train to Cuzco from Aguas Calientes, usually stopping first at the local hot springs to relieve their aching muscles.
Although it was once possible to hike the Inca Trail all on one's own (a foolish thing, if you ask me), the Peruvian government now limits the number of tourists on the trail, and all hikes and camping stops must be pre-arranged well in advance. For most people, that means booking a package tour either through a travel agent (as we did through the Adventure Center) or directly from one of a substantial number of tour operators in Cuzco. It is also possible to organize a private tour by hiring a guide and porters a la carte, so to speak. However, the paperwork necessary to enter the trail seems very complicated, so if you decide to organize your own tour, make sure you know exactly what you are doing.
Most groups hiking the Inca Trail are small -- between 8 and 15 people. In addition to the guide, they also typically include a cook, a medical technician, and porters (who carry camping gear, hikers' personal things at an allowance of 5-6 kg (11-13 lb) per person, food, cookware, a gas tank, and an oxygen tank). Hikers themselves carry only their day packs, which contain things they may need during hiking between stops. At the beginning of each day, porters rush ahead of the group, so that when hikers arrive at the campsite, the tents are already set up, personal duffel bags have been distributed, and the meal has been prepared. In a small group like that, there are two people per tent and approximately 1-1/2 porters for every hiker. I have, however, seen a behemoth group of 45 (English university students), who slept 3 to a tent and had approximately 20 horribly overloaded, scandalously abused porters. Therefore, it is very important that you verify the size and make-up of the group before leaving, and keep in mind that there are no miracles -- substantially lower prices mean that tour operators cut corners by making very large groups and reducing the number of service personnel on the trail.
The Inca Trail is typically not crowded, and you will scarcely see other hikers (though I'd venture a guess that it is a totally different experience if you travel in a group of 45 people); however, crowds do increase somewhat during the school vacation months -- July and August.
Altitude Sickness and Getting Ready for the Inca Trail.
Cuzco and the Sacred Valley are located high in the mountains. The lowest elevation where you may expect to find yourself is approximately 2500 meters (8200 feet) above sea level. The air in this area is poor in oxygen, and may cause an unacclimatized person some serious discomfort, including fatigue, decreased coordination, dizziness, shallow breath, nausea, vomiting, and flu-like symptoms. Many people do not take care to allow their body to adjust to the low oxygen levels, because symptoms often do not appear until the person begins to exert himself. Our tour operator recommended a minimum two-day acclimatization period. In fact, we were transported to Cuzco two days before the beginning of our hike. We were told to rest the first day (and to avoid roaming the steep streets of Cuzco), while the second day was devoted to "warm-up" hiking in the citadels of Pisaq and Ollantaytambo.
At the level of the Inca Trail, altitude sickness is not dangerous, but it is extremely unpleasant. Our medical technician, however, carried an oxygen tank, which proved very effective when one person in our group got sick.
What is provided.
A typical tour operator will provide standard-size duffel bags (which the porters will carry and which are limited to about 5-6 kg per bag), tents, meals, eating utensils, and sleeping mats. Keep in mind that the porter per-person weight allowance includes a sleeping bag. Sleeping bags are the travelers' responsibility, but they may be rented either from one of many specialized stores in Cuzco or from the tour operator.
The medical technician traveling with the group may have some medication, in addition to the oxygen tank, but do not rely on his stash -- bring your own first-aid kit, bug repellent, itch reliever, and plenty -- and I mean PLENTY -- of sunscreen.
The combination of a sleeping bag and a mat is not as comfortable as a bed, and people have been known to take inflatable mattresses with them, but keep in mind that this gadget will severely deplete your porter allowance. Carrying an inflatable mattress by yourself, however, is likely to make an already strenuous hike a lot more difficult (see following section).
Prior to your departure, the operator will provide you with a checklist of things you should take with you on the trail.
Difficulty.
Brochures are somewhat evasive on the issue of difficulty of the Inca Trail. The typical answer to this concern is that the trail is "doable" for any reasonably fit individual in a good state of health. This may be true overall, but it is important to realize that the Inca Trail is no leisure stroll. It is a mountain trek with very steep, perilous climbs and descents over a rugged terrain -- and although I am your garden-variety young, reasonably fit individual in a good state of health, I have to confess that I labored at the very limit of my ability and thought a couple of times that I could not go on. Although hikers do not defect in droves, people do regularly turn back, and sometimes must even be taken off the trail.
The guide's tales about the "Inca-paved road" are likely to make you expect an easier walk on that part of the trail, but in my case, that expectation proved deceiving. The Inca Trail has been restored to the extent that vegetation has been cleared away and gaps have more or less been filled. Nevertheless, it shows the ravages of time and the limitations of its builders (brilliant though they were). Aggressive jungle plants and sagging ground have put rocks and stairs on different levels and have turned some of them on their sides. Where the paved trail is level, rows of rocks have caved in to the middle, forming a jagged, roughly triangular depression running down the center. Staircases have receded to a nearly vertical steepness, while individual stairs can be as narrow as the width of one's palm and almost knee-high. Stairs have also been worn away by travelers and the elements, to the point where in places, they form a mere smooth, slippery downward wave.
Bottom line: you don't have to be a professional athlete to hike the Inca Trail, but be prepared for a challenging, strenuous march.
What happens if you just can't take it? You will be sent back with one porter to carry your things to your starting point. Every tour guide you meet on the way will tell his group that the trail is one-way, so you must be one of those losers who had to give up. (In other words, you have to be in bad enough shape to just not care.) If you cannot walk, then another porter will act as an "Inca-Trail taxi" (our guide's term, not mine), and carry you on his back. For most people on the verge of a break-down, the prospect of being carried by someone half their size is typically sufficient to motivate them against giving up.
There are ways to arrange for a rescue in the event a hiker is so seriously ill or injured that the human taxi is not an option, but (I was told) such instances are very infrequent. Altitude sickness, while highly unpleasant, is rarely crippling, and the oxygen which well-equipped groups carry with them is usually sufficient to relieve the symptoms and get the hiker back into shape.
Facilities and Services on the Inca Trail.
Campsites are equipped with concrete flushable toilets -- either porcelain holes-in-the-ground or actual seats -- and cold running water. However, you must bring your own toilet paper, towels, soap, and sanitizer. The bathrooms are fairly clean considering their remote location, but as you may expect, they are unheated and not exactly sparkling (and some are really smelly). Some campsites have unheated showers, which test both your tolerance for bathing in freezing cold water and your squeamishness. Needless to say, the bathroom facilities have no electricity, so you must use a flashlight after dark.
The Winay Wayna campsite, which the hikers reach in the afternoon of day three, has a cafe, two small convenience booths (which even sell alcohol, albeit the wine we bought was spoiled), and (gasp!) a "warm" shower which you have to pay for (about $1.50). There is no hot water in Winay Wayna, however -- instead, there is an electrically-powered heater installed into the showerhead. As a practical matter, this means that in order to have hot water, you have to reduce the flow to a trickle. If, like me, you have long hair, you have to settle for barely lukewarm. Take heart, however -- after nearly three days of not bathing, even a lukewarm shower in a dirty stall will be a nirvana.
With the exception of a couple of villages located approximately 6 km into the trail, which you will pass early on day one, the trail is remote and does not have places to buy food or necessities. There are no telephones or electrical outlets, so leave your gadgets back in Cuzco.
Eating on the Inca Trail.
Adventure Center arranged our trip through Cuzco's Sunrise Tours, which fed our group of 11 surprisingly well. We had three meals daily (except the fourth day), trail snacks, and afternoon tea with crackers and popcorn. Lunches and dinners consisted of a soup and an entre; in addition, a light dessert was served at dinner. The menu was healthy and varied, and included trout, chicken, and beef; side dishes included both carbs and cooked vegetables. The two vegetarians in our group were catered to and also received good meals. Breakfasts were heavier on the carbs, with pancakes, rolls, jams, and cereals -- which makes sense, considering that hikers need plenty of energy to start their day. There was a good variety of hot beverages, including instant coffee and chocolate, and an assortment of teas. Rum was served at afternoon teas and dinners. Every morning except the fourth day (when all groups rush to the Sun Gate), porters brought coffee and hot chocolate to our tents.
Additional snacks are the hiker's responsibility, and tour guides and counselors emphasize that you should put fatty sweets -- preferably chocolates -- into your day pack. Instead of Twix, however, my husband and I brought nut-packed energy bars from home, and they served us well on the trail.
Weather on the Inca Trail.
Whether you visit during the rainy or the dry season, you will get wet -- very. Temperature and weather conditions change sharply, but fairly predictably. During the day, it may be comfortably cool to pleasantly warm, but the rigors of hiking will probably make you sweat profusely. By the time you reach a campsite, everything you are wearing -- your socks, your tee-shirt, your pants, your underwear, and the underside of your backpack will be soaking-wet and nasty. Because you are hiking high in the mountains, you may walk into a cloud, which will also dampen your clothes. At night, temperatures drop to near zero, causing condensation and an occasional rain. Early mornings, which is when tourists set out for the daily hikes, are often foggy and drizzly.
The most important thing is to bring plenty of lightweight clothes and to keep them dry, since the duffel bag provided by your tour operator will probably not be waterproof. Bring plenty of trashbags, and double-wrap all clothes to prevent them from getting wet. Keep them separate from toiletries and such. Keep your clothes wrapped at night, when the rain may get into your tent and your duffel bag. It is a good idea to keep an extra tee-shirt in your day pack. Set aside a change of clothes and a sweater, which you will not wear while hiking -- only at dinner and while sleeping -- so that you always have a dry outfit for when you need it most. Do not bring jeans -- they are too heavy and do not dry well.
After the Trail: Aguas Calientes.
Located at the foot of Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes is a cute and colorful little town, with many inviting restaurants. Our best meal in Peru (with the exception of a gourmet restaurant in Cuzco, which I mention later), was in Aguas Calientes. This town also houses hot springs -- hence the name -- which are a welcome relief from the rigors of mountain hiking. The clean, picturesque, and well-maintained facility with several pools of varying temperature and mineral concentration has an entrance fee of approximately $1.50. Little stores near the gate rent out towels and sell flip-flops (another nirvana after four days in hiking boots) and a great variety of swimsuits and trunks, all at rock-bottom prices.
Porter Issues.
The people of Peru are friendly and welcoming, but they are very poor. Peru has the highest infant mortality rate in South America, and the adult illiteracy rate in rural areas reaches 35%. Many Andean villages have no running water or electricity, and their residents lead a truly medieval lifestyle. For tourists from wealthier countries, of course, "poor" translates into "cheap", and bargains can be hard to resist even when they involve outright exploitation.
The custom of using porters allows poorer Peruvians to benefit from the burgeoning tourist industry, so I am not about to characterize all porters as human "beasts of burden" and to condemn the practice as a whole. There are abuses, however, some of which you may witness when you visit. The Peruvian government has recently changed applicable laws in favor of porters: they are to be paid a minimum wage of $45 per four-day trip (not bad in a country where an average person earns about $120 per month), and their loads are limited to 25 kg. In practice, however, the difficulty of enforcement and lack of recourse defeats the law's noble intent. In reality, some porters are paid as little as $15 per trip, and carry loads well in excess of the 25 kg maximum.
Our porters had tents to sleep in while on the trail, and their loads were reasonable enough that they carried a battery-powered TV for themselves to watch soccer games, as well as a radio. By contrast, the 45-person group which I mentioned earlier and which camped alongside ours, treated its porters abominably: they had no tents and slept right on the ground in the cold and rain. On one campsite, their porters slept in the bathroom on the cold concrete floor and in the awful smell. They carried tremendous loads in make-shift backpacks, and one porter, who caught up with us on the second day, had a broken thumb which he left untreated. What appalled me even more was that members of that 45-person group -- university students, i.e. people who are usually most vocal about human rights and workers' rights and all other nice things of that nature -- were completely unbothered by the barbarous treatment of their porters.
It can be difficult to know in advance what kind of treatment a tour operator extends to its porters, and it is usually too much to expect of a garden-variety tourist to cancel a non-refundable trip on principle. However, there are things one can do to avoid patronizing companies who mistreat their porters. The most vivid indicator is the size of the group. In small groups, there are usually more porters than hikers, and their loads are therefore reasonable. A group of 45, however, is not going to have 60 porters, and is more than likely, instead, to make a small number of personnel carry double the maximum for a pittance. Some companies do this in order to reduce its prices while maximizing the profits, and so rates which are substantially lower than average should always be suspect.
After the Trail: Cuzco.
Cuzco was the glittering ancient capital of the Incas. Although most hikers arrive there before setting out on the Inca Trail, it is recommended to spend that time acclimatizing oneself to the high altitude, and then take an extra day after the trail to explore the city.
Cuzco's abundance of gold was completely gutted by the Conquistadores, and its temples and palaces were taken apart to build colonial churches and other buildings; however, Cuzco's Inca foundations are still clearly visible in and around the marvelous Plaza de Armas and Calles Loreto and Triunfo. The city is home to several well-appointed museums, imposing churches, and lovely colonial architecture, all of which make it a lot more attractive than the chaotic Lima. City center has several good restaurants, but the Inca Grill located on the Plaza de Armas is a real culinary jewel. Don't let its tacky name and "tourist-trappy" appearance drive you away: the restaurant serves fine, top-notch gourmet cuisine with a local Andean flavor, with impeccable service and at prices which are ridiculously low by American and European standards.
Before and After the Trail: Lima.
Although there are some direct international flights to Cuzco from Peru's South-American neighbors, most tourists stop over in Lima en route to and from the Sacred Valley.
What can I say? Lima is a mixed bag. Having traveled for a while now, I have come to a conclusion that glittering capitals like Paris and Prague are an exception to the rule that these cities are generally dusty, overcrowded, lackluster, and ultimately mere unavoidable stopovers before getting to truly visit-worthy destinations. Lima is in the majority category. It is horribly polluted and poverty-stricken, while street crime is a persistent problem (though heavy police presence in the historical center is reassuring). The old city has some interesting architecture, historical churches, and bone-filled catacombs, but its dumpy appearance takes away from the experience.
Lima is not without its strengths, however. The modern areas of Miraflores and San Isidro are impressive, although they have no historical interest. The nearby artsy neighborhood of Barranco has lovely villas, ocean-view restaurants and bars, and a romantic sloping street with staircases, which we referred to as "Le Petit Montmartre".
We sampled several restaurants in Lima, and the one that really stands out is Zeno Manue in Miraflores. It has an extensive menu of traditional Peruvian cuisine, very finely prepared, and a romantic, rustic atmosphere. Unfortunately, I did not note the exact address, but this restaurant is fairly well-known, and it should present no problem to locate it through your hotel.
Final Thoughts.
I had never returned home with greater reluctance as after traveling in Peru. It is a magical place, and I intend to explore more it in the future, hopefully more than once. I also hope to hike the Inca Trail again, despite all the difficulties that I have talked about. (Just as soon as I can bend my legs again without wincing.)
Bon voyage.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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