Jubail and the Eastern Province
Written: Oct 07 '99 (Updated Oct 07 '99)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Beautiful area; kind people; cheap prices for home goods
Cons: Difficult to get tourist visa; strict religious public policies
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| ariana's Full Review: Saudi Arabia |
Jubail, Saudi Arabia was my home for 5 years in the 1980s. As an American kid growing up the Middle East, I lived in a culture that few get to casually experience. It was colorful, beautiful, chauvinist, threatening, and wonderful - all at the same time.
The government irrigated much of the land in the Eastern Province, turning the desert landscape into an incredibly verdant area. Date trees, flowers, palm trees, roses, and berry bushes all decorated my (many) bicycle travels around Jubail. The marinas that dot the Gulf coastline were beautifully extravagant developments, manicured with great care. And the nearby desalination plant at Ras Tanura - one of the largest in the world - provided a nearly unlimited supply of cheap, fresh water to the cities of the Eastern Province. We enjoyed extraordinarily cheap electricity rates, water, and of course, gas.
Shopping in Saudi Arabia is a big adventure. We enjoyed traveling to the gold souks of Al-Khobar, where 18K gold could be bought in enormous quantities at ridiculously low prices. The supermarkets there imported nearly everything, of course, so our selections were usually excellent - meats and beef from Australia and New Zealand, chocolates from Switzerland and Belgium, and vegetables from northern Europe. If you choose to shop at the souks (outdoor markets), don't be shy about haggling for the best price, and don't be surprised if you get pushed about in line. You're likely to get a fair deal at the souks, and the rewards are many: handmade linens, Middle Eastern ceramics, prayer rugs, and even camels at the larger camel markets.
I don't recommend visiting Saudi Arabia if you're a woman traveling alone. You will get more than your fair share of stares, even if you robe yourself in the traditional black abiyah covering. As I grew older, I had to cover my arms and legs in public. Even when I was most conservatively covered, I still received constant stares and the occasional harassment from males. More often than not, harassment comes from the migrant laborers, and not from native Saudis. If you're lucky enough to get a tourist visa (I understand this is nearly impossible) and you're a woman, bring a male companion. (This is probably good advice throughout the Middle East, but more so in Saudi Arabia.)
Islam and Saudi Arabia are one and the same. Prayer is a public event, occurring five times a day. A prayer call goes out from every mosque, over a loudspeaker, and all shops and stores must close for the duration of prayer time. This is usually about 20-30 minutes long. Many shopkeepers ask you to leave the store, but some may let you stay inside. Enjoying a stay in Saudi Arabia demands a respect for Islamic customs - though this is hard to maintain when all you needed for dinner was some cooking oil or milk, and every single shop is closed for prayer time.
It's easy to forget you're in a desert country when you visit the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia. The area is beautifully landscaped, the souks alive with activity, and the food is rich and delicious (I especially recommend visiting the falafel and shwarma street vendors). It's a country full of contrasts: between the traditional and modern, the sand and the manicured lawns, Islam and western capitalism.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID: ariana
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Member: Ariana French
Location: New Orleans, LA
Reviews written: 7
Trusted by: 27 members
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