Whiskey Jacks and Blueberries: Canadian Memories
Written: Jan 03 '01 (Updated Jan 03 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Gorgeous scenery in the midst of the Canadian Shield, surrounded by the beauty of the Lake of the Woods Region: enormous variety of camping and sporting opportunities
Cons: Very cold in winter; but ideal for snowmobiling and skiing etc.
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| Caleo's Full Review: Ontario |
I was a child of the Prairies, born in the wind swept city of Winnipeg where the Red and the Assinaboine rivers meet. I have some, but limited memories of the city itself, but the golden fields that lay beyond, flat and wide as the ocean; the clouds of dust and plink of gravel against a car traveling down back roads; the punctuation of pine windbreaks lining the boundaries of so many farms; the vibrant sunsets stretching wide and crimson... these live in me, coursing through my blood like air whispering through swaying stands of wheat.
But even a devout flat-lander needs respite from the “flat”, from hot sun and snow filled winters. And so, for eight summers, my family of four would make the journey from Manitoba to the lake strewn wilderness of north western Ontario; the Lake of the Woods area, not far from Kenora... to a tiny, four cabin camp. Camp Whiskey Jack.
Days of Adventure
Loaded into the car, my sister and I crammed between suitcases and boxes of supplies, we would start our half-day expedition down the Trans Canada Highway, which would take us headlong into the majestic landscape of the Canadian Shield. Gone the straight roadways and flat fields, the highway would twist around granite cliffs, meandering past pristine lakes dotted with islands, housed in the refreshingly green glory of the boreal forest (taiga) rich in conifers: pine, fir and balsam; and dotted here and there with birch, poplar and aspen.
A quick stop at Kenora, and the traditional wave to “Huskie the Musky“, the 40 foot, 2 ton fishy tribute to the mascot of the Lake of the Woods area. We are almost there, and shortly we make that left turn down a gravel road that climbs and falls, twist and turns between the trees, and finally lands us at the entrance of the camp, marked by the owner’s cabin on the right, the sauna and wash house on the left. This is home for the next two months. Heaven on earth.
The days spent at Camp Whiskey Jack float like a rosy bubble, resplendent, preserved intact with all the child-like magic and larger-than-life perfection. It holds for me days of family, wild blueberry pancakes, and golden afternoons spent exploring the pine filled forest. We could lie on the sandy beach all day, salt at hand for the release of dreaded leeches, swim out to the floating dock... or take off with a thermos full of Kool-Aid and spend the afternoon climbing small cliffs, pushing our way through the brush like true explorers, marveling at the odd shaped lichens that covered the tree trunks and boulders alike. The freedom was intoxicating.
This camp was built on the remnants of an old mining camp, and the mine remained open for those brave enough to go forth amidst the bats. It was another world in there, cold, damp, eerie. But persisting long enough would reward us with a cavern filled with stalagmites illuminated by the glow of flashlights. The grown-ups took too much joy in titillating us with ghost stories, and pointing their lights at the sleeping bats so as to make them screech. I never did make it all the way through, having the darkness and fears consume me. Its always been a dream to go back there someday and take my children through, to the enchantment that must lay in waiting on the other side.
Nights were spent on the rocky point that jutted out from the gaping hole of the mine’s mouth; roasting corn and marshmallows around the bon fire, counting the shooting stars, listening to the lap of the waves and the call of the owls. If we felt daring, we would cram ourselves onto the wooden benches of the sauna, the water sizzling, and the steam pouring forth from the rocks, waiting for that perfect “hot enough” moment which would signal the mass exodus to the lake. Then we would run as quickly as we could, stopping to pick are way across the painful gravel road, feeling the soft bliss of the grassy hill, the sand of the beach, plunge into the cold night water of the lake, screaming like banshees.
I can remember the warmth of my mother’s skin as she held me in the black water, my head on her shoulder, dancing slowly in circles under a sky smothered with stars.
It was a lovely existence, filled with the periodic trek to pick wild blueberries and hunt for the silvery slivers of mica that lined so many of the rock faces. But the very best of days would see the arrival of the Whiskey Jacks, the cheeky Grey Jays from which the camp took its name. They lived in the forests surrounding us, but only made an appearance every so often, swooping into the camp much to the delight of us kids. These are not timid birds. We would rush into the cabins, grabbing bits of bread or nuts, then stand perfectly still, our offerings on outstretched hands. There is nothing quite a thrilling as having any sort of (rather harmless) wild creature close to you, and it was exciting to have a bird land on our fingers, and eat from our hands. Then they would disappear back into the trees like ghosts, only to be seen again when they saw fit.
The Facts:
These are some of the fondest childhood memories of the Canada I know, sacred ground to a certain extent. This is an area rich in history as well as beauty. For those of you looking for a supreme getaway to the wilds, back to fresh air, clear waters, and blue skies, you need look no further than this most special corner of Ontario. The Lake of the Woods is the second largest inland lake in Ontario, boasting 65,000 miles of shoreline. It is not surprising that this region boasts fabulous fishing... you can throw a line in for huge muskies, northern pike, walleyes, bass and perch. Fishing was one of my Dad’s passions, and I can remember him returning to camp, proudly showing off his catch of the day.
The area is literally covered with thousands of lakes and streams perfect for boating, swimming, and canoeing; cliffs for rock climbing, natural beauty to hike through, and scores of camp grounds, hotels, and B&B’s to stay at. It is pristine. It is gorgeous. It will take your breath away.
And if you happen to travel down the Trans Canada Highway, watch for a small sign marking Richard Lake, and quickly turn to take in the small beach and cabins visible from the road.
My memories dance there.
For more Information:
To learn about the Whiskey Jack go to: http://www.pathcom.com/~wgbz/grayjay.htm
For more travel information on Kenora/Lake of the Woods: http://www.lakeofthewoods.com/index2.htm
Recommended:
Yes
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Caleo
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Member: Brenda C
Location: Ontario, Canada
Reviews written: 49
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