No matter how hungry you are for relaxation, you can only sit on the beach for so long -- no matter how soft and white the beach may be, and no matter how big and cheap the margaritas may be. Every now and then, you gotta get up off the blanket and DO something!

Nature lovers visiting Cancun or Isla Mujeres have a great day-trip option available...one that's fairly inexpensive and that doesn't require spending any time cooped up in a bus. If you love nature, take one of the day trips out to Isla Contoy, the island nature preserve that lies a couple miles off the coast, to the northwest of Isla Mujeres.

When I first got to Isla Mujeres (see my epinion about Isla Mujeres for more info), I just wanted to chill out and relax with a few brewskis for a while. Although the beaches on Isla Mujeres (especially the north end beach) are unarguably among the best you can find anywhere, I still got a little restless and decided to do the Isla Contoy trip. Good call!

The Isla Contoy trips depart from Cancun, from the ferry dock at Puerto Juarez, and from the lancheros dock on Isla Mujeres. I took the trip from Isla Mujeres, so I know how the logistics work there, I imagine it's similar in Cancun or Puerto Juarez. On Isla Mujeres, you arrange the trip through the boatmen's cooperative, which is in a storefront about a block from the main ferry dock (walk straight across the street from the dock and up the small street directly ahead, the office is a storefront on the left, and it has posters for diving, snorkling trips, and fishing trips in addition to the Isla Contoy trip). Trips leave at about 8am each day -- at least according to the sign. In reality, this is a Mexican 8am, which means that the gringos get there at 8 and the logistics are taken care of (such as paying up if you didn't pre-pay -- the price is about $40 for the day), then the crew arrives an hour later and everyone goes down to the dock together. Isla Mujeres is an informal place where everyone is a friend, so nobody gets too stressed about hanging out for a little bit. In any case, the time you're waiting is productive since you go into the cooperative's equipment room and select your snorkling gear, trying to find the set that fits best and seems like it's in good condition.

Once everyone has their fins and goggles picked out, the boat crew arrives bearing picnic coolers with the days lunch. Then it's a short walk down to the dock where everyone piles into one of the fiberglass launches. Coolers are stowed, engines started, lines cast off, and away you go!

The trip to Contoy takes about an hour from Isla Mujeres (maybe an hour and half or more from Cancun). About half way there, the boat stops along a coral reef and everyone is invited to dive in for some snorkling. The waters are crystal clear and you can see quite a distance. Schools of colored fish dart by, along with the occasional sea turtle or manta ray. The snorkling stop takes maybe a half hour, then everyone piles back in the boat to continue on to Contoy.

As the boat approaches the island, you begin to notice the flocks of birds. Pelicans nest all along the shoreline, and you'll see them perched on every rock, tree stump, or piling that you pass by. They will also be gliding past, diving down every so often to scoop up a fish in their big bills.

Frigate birds glide gracefully overhead, and in places there are so many that it looks like a black cloud of locusts.

The boat docks in a small cove with a short, narrow (but pleasant) beach. Naturalists from the Biosphere Park come down to greet the boat. They are multilingual and explain how the preserve operates, its role in Mexico's conservation program, and what species of birds and other animals you might expect to stay during your visit. Noone is allowed to stay on the island, with the exception of naturalists and researchers approved by the government. The visitor center occupies only a small part of the island, most of which is off limits to the general public. The visitor center is the only significant building on the island and it serves not only as a museum, but as a research center and home to researchers.

Exhibits at the visitor center show various wildlife on the island -- especially the birds -- although the beaches also serve as a rare uninhabited beach area where sea turtles can breed without human interference.

An observation tower stretches up about 4 stories over the visitor center, and you can climb up the stairs and survey the island's landscape. If you've got binoculars, you should be able to see quite a few varieties of birds, including egrets and other aquatic species. Even if you don't have binoculars, it's a nice place to just look around and soak up some gentle sea breeze.

Nature trails go up into one of the dune areas, and another goes off to the edge of a mangrove swamp. Don't be surprised if you occasionally find a bird nesting right over your head --- they're everywhere! The park naturalist told us that there were crocodiles in the swamps, but I was happy that was one species we didn't see!

Back at the boat, the crew is preparing a fire on the beach where they will grill fresh fish, tortillas, and assorted vegetables. Nothing beats a fish fry on the beach! Sodas and beer are available for free (well, as part of the $40 you paid for the day).

Shortly after lunch, everyone gathers at the boat for the trip back, which again includes a short snorkel stop, then the captain -- a big burly indian guy with one gold tooth -- grins and pulls out a gallon jug of tequila! He takes a swig for himself and passes it around the launch. A few of the tourists decline, skeptically, but most figure "what the heck" and follow the captain's lead. I take a shot and am surprised that it's actually a pretty good tequila -- it's got some of the soft mellow toffee like flavors of a well-aged tequila. Pretty nice!

It was about 4:30 in the afternoon when the launch finally pulled up to the dock on Isla Mujeres. A pretty full day, and a lot of fun for everyone!



Recommended: Yes