We were starving by the time the ferry docked in Cozumel. It was almost three in the afternoon, and we still hadn't had lunch yet. We'd enjoyed sleeping in for once and had a late morning breakfast, but that had been hours ago.

Wandering the streets of Playa del Carmen and avoiding the sales pitches of the various vendors and time share salesman can work up an appetite. By the time we decided to take a spontaneous trip across to the island, it was too late to grab some lunch on the mainland.

First thing on the itinerary in San Miguel, the main and only town on Cozumel was finding a place to eat. We both knew we wanted something traditional, and also away from the throngs of cruise ship passengers. Fast, cheap and not too fancy were also high on our list of preferred choices. Considering the heat, something light would also have been nice.

Wandering around the Plaza Benito Juarez, the main square, and the Malecon we couldn't find anything we wanted. Even moving inland a couple of blocks brought us no luck. Famished we were resigned to heading back to the ferry docks area and joining the cruise ship hordes waiting to get into the Hard Rock or one of its numerous clones and enjoy some "real traditional local cuisine." You know, over priced and under cooked burgers and fries.


We were near the fountain at the north east edge of the square when just then one of the locals who make their living handing out flyers for various business approached. Usually I've learned to give these guys the bum's rush. It's not that I begrudge them making a living off of a commission from the shop owners, I just find them too pushy. This time I ignored my instincts and let him start talking.

Before he could start telling us about all the special stores where we could any souvenir we wanted at prices beyond belief, I told him we only wanted somewhere to eat. He shuffled through his collection of flyers and handed us one for a place across the street. It looked nice, enclosed and air conditioned.

Mind it also looked a little too fancy for our immediate needs. I wasn't really worried about the fact that we wouldn't make the dress code. Come on we were tourists after all. What bothered me is that in an upscale place service can often be leisurely.

Sensing our reluctance, our new friend handed me a second flyer. A place just up the road, Los Gavilanes Grill. Our stomachs were grumbling so we decided to give it a try.

Los Gavilanes is a couple of blocks east of the church on Avienda Juarez between 10th and 15th Avenues. It's just far enough inland that most of the cruise ship types don't venture there. Naturally that means that the prices in the shops and restaurants in the area are more than reasonable.

You enter the place through a small snack bar on the ground floor. A large wooden staircase takes you up to the open sided second floor "roof top" where the dining room and kitchen is. The place is large and airy. Its like a giant covered balcony with plants along the walls, and views of the surrounding town down to the waterfront.

Heavy old fashioned dark wooden tables and chairs are everywhere as is a massive bar in one corner. Try and grab a table near the edge, overlooking the streets. Careful though, don't lean over too much to take in the view. Mixed in with the with the aloe plants lining the balcony are a variety of local cactus.

The menu is simple. Caribbean and seafood dishes mainly. Fish steak, pork, and chicken dishes predominated. There are also specials on lobster and King Crab.

We settled on shrimp brochettes mainly because we didn't think they'd take too long. For an appetiser a large order of nachos with a good spicy dip was served. This served to quell our immediate hunger pains.

The brochettes when they arrived were enormous. Large tiger shrimps grilled to perfection on skewers with large chunks of onions, and peppers. The whole dish was set on a bed of yams, sweet potatos, and local rice. They tasted as good as they looked.

The meal was complimented by a couple of cold beers. The kind of beer you can only get in a Mexican cantina on a very hot day. So cold there is dew on the bottle.

The place does accept major credit cards as well as both Pesos and dollars. There is a small service charge if you use plastic which our waiter actually advised us of before hand. Even with this appreciated warning I put the bill on my Visa. When it came through the total, with tax , tip and the service charge was only 300 Pesos $50.00 Canadian.

We were not the only touristas dining here I noticed. There were a couple of other tables full of those adventurous enough to stray off the beaten track. Several of the tables also had locals at them. The prices as I noted weren't too prohibitive to prevent them from stopping in for a drink or dining here.

The final attraction to this place was the display of business cards over the bar and on the wall over the stairs. Hundreds of them from satisfied customers from all over the world. It's a testament to the quality of the food and service I guess. At least that's why I added mine to the collection.


Recommended: Yes

Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Sep - Nov