Beneath The Smog, A Heaving Hub Of Hidden Delights
Written: Jul 30 '05
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: Stunning artwork, more pleasant than its reputation might let on.
Cons: Busy, polluted, manic ...
The Bottom Line: Despite the bad reputation, Mexico City has plenty to offer. The traffic, pollution and chaos are real, but there are enough positives to outweigh them.
|
|
|
| smadakcin's Full Review: Mexico City |
One of the three largest cities in the world, Mexico City, its country's capital, comes with something of a reputation; several people expressed suprise that I would want to travel to somewhere seen as weighed down by crime, pollution and traffic. However, as is often the case, the hype proved (for me at least) to be at best something of an exaggeration.
The heart of the country in political, economic and historical terms - the nation was born at its centre when its founders saw an eagle perched on a cactus with a snake in its jaws, which became the Mexican emblem - Mexico City is a vast sprawling settlement situated around 2,000 metres above sea level. The Zocalo is very much the hub of the city; the third largest square in the world (behind Red and Tianamen) is a great concrete expanse, and though not especially appealing in itself, is rather striking for its immense scale, and is bordered by both the Palacio National, containing a number of stunning Diego Rivera murals, and the tilting, vast Cathedral. In the middle of the plaza an enormous flag flies, rising above even the taller surrounding structures.
^^^ Transport ^^^
From here, the large, generally efficient, very cheap Metro system is possibly the best means through which to explore the city, as traffic is hectic and invariably jam-packed into the streets. A return fare going anywhere on the network costs four Pesos - although further trips, such as to Xochimilco on the overland train, require additional tickets. A scheme called 'Hoy No Circula' limits car-traffic, but travel within the city is still slow by road.
Taxis are plentiful, swarms of green Beetles circling the Zocalo and surrounding streets at all hours, but they come with a bad reputation, and if used, should be arranged via your hotel/hostel. Trips from the airport are often charged at exhorbitant rates - it really shouldn't be more than 100 Pesos or so.
^^^ Around the Zocalo ^^^
A considerable number of attractions sit within easy reach of the Zocalo by foot - the aforementioned Palacio National and Cathedral are free, and the former is especially worth visiting. Rivera's murals are exceptional for their detail and passion, chronicling the history of the country through the major players in that, who are clustered around the main staircase, from ancient Atzecs to Karl Marx, with Benito Juarez, Pancho Villa and Frida Kahlo, amongst many others in between. A number of smaller paintings sweep around the second level, but sadly only reach halfway, a succession of black canvasses following on from the last one the artist completed before his death in 1957. Rivera began his main mural in 1929, demonstrating the scale of the task he undertook.
The Templo Mayor lies a block or so north of the Zocalo, the ancient ruins of an Atzec temple. They can be seen for free from the road, but can also be inspected from closer for around $4US. The temple was constructed in the style of a Russian Doll, insomuch as another layer was added every 52 years, leaving an extremely resilient structure. The remains are nothing amazing, but worth a visit.
The city's art museum is located a few blocks to the west of the Zocalo, and the anthropological museum is a short metro ride away. The surrounding streets offer a wide variety of shops and eateries, commonly either upmarket or world-wide brands. There aren't as many bars as one might expect in the area, but can be found with a bit of a wander. Many street vendors offer hot snacks or light meals, commonly Tacos, Fajitas or Corn - use your judgement as to whether it's likely to come with food poisoning. One place worthy of specific mention is the Bakery to be found two blocks and a right turn south of the south-west corner of the Zocalo - the vast wedding cakes in the window are hard to miss. Grab a tray and pile it high with a variety of the pasties and cakes on offer - thousands of delectables, in hundreds of varieties, are laid out for perusing. Although it takes all day to choose, the quality and quantity is substantial, and the prices similarly attractive - typically 2 or 3 Pesos (10p) per pastry. Perfect for stuffing oneself.
^^^ Outside the centre ^^^
Many of the city's major attractions are located away from the centre, and in such a vast place, this either means road or rail. Where there is a choice, the Metro is inevitably the better bet, although in some cases (e.g. Teotihuacan), there is no such option.
Heading south on the Metro, Frida Kahlo's house, a museum of her some of her work (not her finest, however, which is currently being exhibited in London) is a short walk from the Coyoacan stop, and the house in which Leon Trotsky stayed (and was killed in just a few blocks north-east of here.
Heading straight down on the Zocalo line to the final stop, one can change onto the overland train, and again travel to the end of the line to get to Xochimilco, where a network of canals intersect the various gardens of the area. A great number of brightly decorated boats will punt you around for a few hours for a negotiable price; as a group of seven, we paid 100 Pesos each. It's not terribly cheap, and you will be boarded several times by hawkers and courted by Mariachi bands, but it makes a pleasant change to the hectic, busy city (although at weekends, especially Sundays, here too will be packed, albeit with boats rather than cars). It's also quite interesting to see the locals using the waterways to get about, punting their own, rather less extravagantly decorated, boats. It takes about an hour in total to get to Xochimilco, most of the that on the rather slow overland train, and the floating gardens are easy enough to find from the station - just head south, or follow the flow of people.
Going north from the Zocalo, the Guadalupe shrine is a site worth deviating to, especially if en route to Teotihuacan. It was here that a local saw the Virgin Mary on the hilltop, and today a modern church stands alongside its older counterpart. Opened by the late Pope John Paul II, it makes an impressive monument, especially inside, where the pews are gathered in a vast semi-circle around the altar, and one can ride a conveyor belt past the shroud around which the building is constructed. The hill itself is now a set of gardens leading to a smaller shrine at its top, which affords an impressive panoramic view of the city below.
On from here, Teotihuacan itself lies about 50km north of the city. It, once a great city itself, is a huge site, with the Pyramid of the Moon standing at the head of the long, wide Avenue of the Dead, the Sun Temple off to the side partway along. Both can be climbed, once again offering an expansive vista over the surrounding area and distant city. A number of smaller buildings offer probably the greatest interest within the site, containing numerous fine carvings and murals. Sadly, several rather artificial-looking restoration attempts marred the look of the original features before they were halted, but there is still enough left untouched to admire. The site at large is impressive, especially in its scale, but not stunning - the surroundings are rather bleak, and this is no Machu Picchu or Chichen Itza. However, as a day-trip from Mexico City, it's an interesting break, and only 38 Pesos (around two pounds) entry.
^^^ All In All ^^^
Mexico City was, for me, a suprise. There's little disguising the fact it's huge, it's crowded, it's busy, but all of these were far more manageable than I expected them to be. Being a capital city, one might expect the people to be a fraction less friendly and helpful than in lesser settlements, but this was far from the impression I got on the whole. Perhaps because this is such a hub, and is more focused on its own matters than on tourism and catering for visitors, one feels less conspicuous, and is less harassed, than in other cities.
Of course, there are still areas where the warnings people typically attatch to the city apply - one should still be careful at night, and in less-travelled areas (as in any city). Numerous people in other parts of Mexico also added their tales of violence and danger about the capital - everyone, it seemed, knew of someone who had been robbed, mugged or otherwise troubled. Doubtless there are truths amongst these tales, but I got the impression that if one is just sensible, they'll be fine.
This isn't an amazing city - not in the way that many large European equivalents might be, or other American cities, but it is worth spending some time at before you head out into the rest of the country. Stay for a week or so to see the best of it; the capital may just (pleasantly) suprise you.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Friends
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
|
|
|
|
Epinions.com ID:
smadakcin
|
|
Location: Brighton, West Sussex, England
Reviews written: 87
Trusted by: 20 members
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.