OAXACA's PACIFIC COAST: Three resorts for different tastes.
Written: Aug 18 '00 (Updated Aug 16 '04)
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Pros: A vacation for every taste
Cons: Not the easiest places to get to
The Bottom Line: Oaxaca's Pacific coast is isolated from the fast pace and crowding of Mexico's "official" tourist venues. Enjoy the laid back atmosphere and friendly people.
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| jsquarejj's Full Review: Oaxaca |
If you never want to leave the grounds of a luxury resort, if you'd rather sleep in a hammock on the beach, if you prefer something in between, the southern state of Oaxaca has something for you. Here, the norm is pristine beaches, small bays, coastal marshes and lagoons all backed by jungle. The coastline runs roughly east-west in this part of Mexico, so all the beaches have perfect southern exposure. There are few protective bays, so the surf runs big.
The three main tourist areas are Huatulco, Puerto Angel, and Puerto Escondido.
Huatulco--Emerging Mega Resort a la Cancun
Huatulco (officially Bahias de Huatulco), like Cancun, is one of the areas officially designated by Mexico's Tourism Development department (FONATUR). The 12,000 acres to be developed and 40,000 acres set aside for ecological reserves encompass nine bays with white sand beaches and isolated coves backed by jungle.
Huatulco hasn't yet caught on like Cancun, probably because it hasn't developed much night life, or much life at all outside of the hotels. However, if you're interested in diving, snorkeling, water skiing, jetskiing, boat cruises, golf, tennis, ecological day trips, and then returning to relax at your hotel, Huatulco will fit the bill.
For now, development is centered around Tangolunda Bay, where you'll find the big hotels, a golf course, and various restaurants. Less expensive hotels and restaurants are located a few miles away in Crucecita, a planned town which serves as the residential area for the resorts.
There are no less than 36 beaches here, and many of them have restaurants, bars, and palapas at the water's edge. La Entrega Beach and Chahue Bay are especially popular because of their extensive amenities.
Puerto Angel--Laid Back, Rustic
Thirty miles west of Huatulco, the tiny fishing port of Puerto Angel is another world. There are no official tourist trappings and no luxury hotels here. But the excellent beaches, unpaved streets and budget hotels make this a very popular destination for the international backpacking crowd looking for a laid back vacation. Here, the pace of life is very slow: fisherman go out every morning and return with their catch around noon.
There's really nothing to do here but hit the beach. The most popular swimming beach is Playa Panteon (Cemetary Beach) with its palapa restaurants. Playa Zipolite, about 4 miles from town is known for great surfing conditions and as a nude beach (one of the few in Mexico, where public nudity is against the law). Unfortunately, the surf conditions here make swimming very dangerous. There are a few palapa restaurants and bars and a few very rustic hotels here. That's it!
Puerto Escondido--Friendly, Part of the Real Mexico
Fifty miles farther west is my favorite beach town, Puerto Escondido. I don't like resorts like Cancun and Huatulco because they package an experience that you could get anywhere else in the world: big hotels, big shopping malls, isolation from the local culture. On the other hand, Puerto Escondido is part of the real Mexico: it's not a planned tourist development like Huatulco, but it's also not as "rustic" as Puerto Angel. People come here, sometimes to spend weeks or even months because of the surf, the great beaches, the friendly people, and the relatively inexpensive hotels and restaurants.
The two most popular beaches are Playa Marinero, the swimming beach, and Playa Zicatela, one of the world's great surfing beaches. Both are backed by palapa restaurant, bars, bungalows, hotels, and other amenities. One great hidden cove, Playa Puerto Angelito, is most easily accessible by boat from Playa Marinero, and the clear water there is great for snorkeling.
Another great thing about Puerto Escondido is the abundance of ecotours to places like Manialtepec Lagoon, a bird filled mangrove lagoon, and Escobilla Beach, one of the nesting grounds of Ridley turtles.
Unlike many Mexican beach resorts, you won't find many wandering vendors here. And unlike Puerto Angel, you can actually do some shopping and experience a little night life other than what you can create yourself.
Getting There
This part of Mexico is relatively isolated, so the best way to get here is to fly. Both Huatulco and Puerto Escondido have airports with regularly scheduled flights from Oaxaca city and Mexico City. Check with Mexicana airlines and its affiliate Aerocaribe. Schedule restrictions may make it impossible to get from the US to these destinations without an overnight layover. If you find this is the case, I'd suggest you spend a day or two in Oaxaca city, the capital of the state of Oaxaca. There's plenty to do there including tours of one of Mexico's great pre-Columbian ruins, Monte Alban.
If you think you want to take a bus, even a first class bus, from Oaxaca city, be warned. The trip can take from 8 to 11 hours, and the winding mountain roads can sour even the most cast iron stomach after 5 or 6 hours.
I also don't recommend traveling by car, especially the stretch of road from Acapulco to Puerto Escondido, which seems to be plagued by bandits.
Related Links
Check out my review of the city of Oaxaca at Oaxaca Isn't Cancun--It's Part of the Real Mexico
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Recommended:
Yes
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jsquarejj
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Member: Jim J
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Reviews written: 190
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About Me:
#7 in Personal Finance, #14 in Travel. My goal? Saving you money.
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