Mexico in the middle of a Global Pandemic.
Written: May 14 '09 (Updated Jun 11 '09)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: An amazing country with plenty to see and do.
Cons: Our timing could have been better.
The Bottom Line: We will return to Mexico, that’s a promise.
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| gillandtony's Full Review: Mexico |
How do you write about finding yourselves in the middle of a global pandemic? Ours was a long awaited trip to Mexico, approximately nine years in the planning. I have always wanted to see Chichen Itza, climb the Mayan pyramid at Coba and explore the ancient ruins at Tulum. I had researched the possibility of a trip many times but suddenly the flight and destination fell into place like magic (the cynic in me says "I wonder why?") We felt the time was right to go. Little did we know what was brewing.
I had joked with my friend, Regina, that Cancun was not for us and I would avoid it like the plague. How prophetic ! Instead, the Riviera Maya , further down the coast, seemed a great base for an introduction to the country as the Mayan ruins are easily accessible, snorkeling over the second largest coral reefs is wonderful and the hotels along the coast have refined hospitality to an art form.
By the time that we had left the UK, news of swine flu had broken but seemed confined to Mexico City and a small outbreak in the US. It seemed to be contained. There were no travel restrictions from our government and no word from our travel company. It was business as usual. We looked at the distance between Mexico City and Quintana Roo and figured that it was the equivalent of several European countries. The odds were in our favour. Other travelers must have shared our view. Our flight was full. We now know that were among the last to leave the UK.
Let me stress that the Mexican coastline from Cancun downwards does not represent the real Mexico. Everything along this coastline has been built during the last forty years. The land is flat and covered with low trees and mangrove swamps. The roads are wide, straight and have great road signs. The infrastructure is good with modern transportation. The beaches are composed of pale coral sand and stretch for miles. It is impressive and not at all what I had expected.
Our five star hotel was amazing and run with precision. Without exception the members of staff were friendly and helpful and could not do enough for us, even though they were being laid off in droves. It could not have been easy for them. I could not fault the food which was excellent. Furthermore, by just walking down the long tree-lined drive you could see a wonderful array of bird life of golden orioles, azure Yucatan jays and ubiquitous grackles. On the beach we found pelicans and frigate birds.
And so we found ourselves in what might, under other circumstances, have been a paradise, except for the fact that we are restless travelers who last for a maximum of twenty minutes on a sun bed (and that is with something to read). Our advisor was adamant that there was no risk of fever in our area. We had just booked some trips and explored the nearby town of Playa Del Carmen when news came that all outward travel from the UK had been stopped, our trip to Chichen Itza was cancelled and all historical sites had been closed to the public.
When the news of the closures broke we were visiting the Jardin Botanico, a series of jungle like Mayan gardens with a few small ruins and a rope bridge walk. We found ourselves locked in. The helpful staff called us a taxi to Puerto Morelos, a small fishing village on the coast, and we made our way back to our hotel.
For the next few days we aimed to content ourselves with beach walks, but found the northern beach denied to us by a clipboard toting official.
The island of Cozumel was swine fever free but the islanders' festival of El Cedral, which we had planned to visit, had been postponed, the museum was closed and the Mayan ruins out of bounds.
Not all activities were banned. A trip to the remote Isla Contoy was possible. No-one lives there. There are no hotels and no houses, but there is a barbeque area and a look-out tower plus a lagoon full of nesting frigate birds. The turquoise sea is shallow and manta rays and silver fish will swim right up to you if you paddle in the warm water.
Isla Mujeres was also said to be fever free. As an island off the Mexican coast, it is populated, has hotels and shops and a very well cared for turtle population. It has a feel good factor and a huge marina. Anyone attempting to cross on the ferry had their temperature taken which was somewhat re-assuring but I did not see anyone turned away.
Suddenly the fear of swine flu seemed to abate. The virus was not deemed as virulent as was first thought. The government ban was lifted. We assessed the risks, listened to CNN and the BBC and asked advice from the tour desks. We had just a few days left to explore the archaeological sites.
Tulum is an easy journey down the coast. We were amongst the first visitors to arrive on the day that it was re-opened. The setting is stunning, an ancient walled city with one side protected by cliffs and the sea, a sandy beach and a dip in the water to cool off.
Chichen Itza is further afield and best attempted by organized tour. We were forced to take the most expensive option though we would have preferred the no frills version, skipping the usual tourist traps of self-service buffet lunches and bored looking dancers who perform for all of five minutes then demand a tip. Again our temperatures were taken by the border guards between Yucatan and Quintana Roo but there was no problem with any of the passengers on our coach. The site itself was incredible. Our tour guide was knowledgeable. He gave us a two hour talk which just left us time to visit the sacred well and the observatory.
Afterwards it was a very quick dip in the blue cenote at Il Kil. This collapsed limestone karst is open to the sky but eighty two feet below ground level and reached by a huge stairway. The water is one hundred feet deep and cold. The Yucatan and Quintano Roo areas are peppered with cenotes and many have been developed as tourist attractions.
Coba is between Chichen Itza and Tulum. We had booked our tickets in advance but we were the only people on the luxury ADO coach. As we descended the driver informed us that our return time had been altered. Instead of four hours at the site, we now had only two. The heat was intense but we pulled out all the stops, hired a guide and a tricycle with driver to cycle us along the jungle paths. We saw most of the site and climbed the pyramid. The view of jungle and lagoons from the top was amazing. The journey was rushed but worth it.
And so, after more health checks, we flew home. Our pre-booked taxi driver regularly does the airport run and had been on a course of Tamiflu as a precaution.
I am writing this on day three of our self-imposed seven day quarantine as recommended by the UK government. A kind friend is doing our shopping and leaving it on the doorstep. Our attendance at a charity do has had to be cancelled. All we need is a bell around our necks and we will feel complete.
However, on the bright side, so far, so good. No symptoms of flu.
It was a memorable holiday for all the wrong reasons, but Mexico, I promise you, we'll be back.
Watch this space.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
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gillandtony
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Member: Gill and Tony
Location: Worcestershire, England.
Reviews written: 57
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