American Woman Vomits On Sacred Site!
Written: Sep 19 '01 (Updated Oct 24 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Amazing vistas and breathtaking beauty: may be a spiritual experience for some
Cons: It's not easy or cheap to get there
The Bottom Line: Uluru is one of the most spectacular places on earth. The sheer beauty and grandeur of the site makes the trip worthwhile.
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| Nathanael73's Full Review: Uluru (Ayers Rock) |
During my childhood and youth in Australia, Ayers Rock, or Uluru as it is now more commonly called, was ever-present in my consciousness. I'm not suggesting that I thought about Uluru all the time, only that its presence and importance could never be forgotten. "The Rock" served as the definitive icon of "The Outback."
Despite being the most photographed site in Australia, and despite its central place in the Australian iconography, many Australians haven’t made the trip to Uluru. After all, it’s a bloody long way from anywhere. Uluru is not on the way to any major attraction or city. A separate and dedicated trip is required.
As I grew older and spent more and more time away from my homeland, I increasingly came to feel that I had not seen enough of Australia. I felt that by not having visited Uluru I had missed out on something very important and central to my culture. And so, earlier this year, when my wife and I began planning a month-long trip to Australia, we made it a priority to visit Uluru.
We decided that driving would be the best way for us to get to Uluru. We wanted the freedom to deviate from the beaten track and to make our own schedule. After taking the train from Melbourne to Adelaide, we collected a rental car and drove from Adelaide to Alice Springs via Coober Pedy. We spent a few days in "The Alice" then made the southerly drive back down the Stuart Highway towards Uluru. The Rock is approximately 500 kilometers southwest of Alice Springs (a 4 and a half hour drive). About two hours south of Alice we turned off the Stuart Highway and headed west on the Lassetter Highway for another two hours until we reached the Uluru/Kata Tjuta National Park. We paid A$16 each for a three-day permit to enter the park.
We were both quite excited at the prospect of seeing the Rock. Even though we had seen hundreds of photos of Uluru, nothing could have prepared us for that first sighting. Rising 345 meters above the desert, Uluru simply dominates the landscape. The vast emptiness of the continent only serves to emphasize the size of the great monolith. The Rock has a girth of 9.4 kilometers, and covers an area of 3.3 square kilometers (I don’t know what that equals in miles, for those of you still stuck in the stone age). The Rock is 3.1 kilometers long. In other words, it is bloody huge. Until one arrives at the foot of the rock, the enormity of it doesn’t sink in.
We parked at the foot of the rock, then pulled on our hiking-boots, strapped on our daypacks, gathered our cameras, and headed to the foot of the climb. We were immediately struck by just how steep the climb would be. I had always heard stories of how tough the climb is, and of how many people have died trying; either from falling or from heart attacks, yet I was still shocked at the difficulty of the climb. Putting our hands on the warm, red surface, we marveled at the smoothness, and quickly realized that without the chain to hold onto, climbing the rock would be extremely hazardous.
Hundreds of people were going up and down the rock above us, like an ant colony. Within a few minutes of climbing, we were both out of breath. Sitting down for a breather I surveyed the scene and noted that one false step would lead to a hasty tumble to a nasty death. My wife noted that if the rock were in America there is no way that it would be open for climbing, due to liability concerns. We pushed on for a few more minutes, still shocked by the steepness of the climb. People coming down gave words of encouragement and ensured us that the view from the top would be worth the effort.
Resting again, my better half mentioned that she felt sick. We drank some water and I said that we could rest until she felt like continuing.
Suddenly she vomited violently all over the side of the rock! I guess she must have felt pretty crook. We apologized to our fellow climbers and washed the puke away with some of our water, hoping that the Aboriginals hadn't witnessed the desecration of their sacred site. Unfortunately she felt too poorly to continue, but urged me to go on alone, and said she would wait for me at the bottom.
After assuring myself that she would be okay, I climbed on. It tuned out that the first third of the climb is by far the steepest. She had almost made it through the hardest part of the climb. After the first third, the chain ended, and the path continued to the top. Once on top of the rock, however, the journey is far from over. The peak is at the other end of the rock, and to get there I had to traverse mini-canyons and step over water holes. About forty-five minutes after beginning the climb, I stood at the highest point of the rock.
The view justified the climb, the 25-hour trip from Melbourne, the 20-hour flight from Michigan, and the thousands of dollars spent. That view is priceless. I will never forget it.
I spent about a half an hour on top of Uluru, taking photos and recording video footage while I ate lunch. The sight of Kate Tjuta (The Olga’s) in the distance was quite special. The desert stretched as far as I could see in every direction, occasionally interrupted by mountain ranges. The surface of Uluru contained a few surprises, such as small caves and water holes. I think it would be quite pleasant to spend a night up there in a sleeping bag staring at the stars.
After I descended and found my wife alive and well, we walked for an hour or so along the base of the rock. We saw more caves and some wildlife, including a dingo (we were dissapointed to note that it was not eating a baby). We stayed until sunset, and I can assure you that the changing colors are every bit as spectacular as they are reputed to be. We returned to The Rock before dawn the next morning to watch the sunrise. It is quite remarkable to watch The Rock change from deep ochre hues to bright orange in less than half an hour, and I could swear that the rock actually glows.
My wife and I both agreed that visiting Uluru is well worth the time, money and effort, and we decided that we would definitely return once we have children. Next time we will both make it to the top without puking!
A Few Hints For Those Who Plan To Go
* Visit during the winter months (June – August) when the weather is mild
* Bring water, sunscreen, snacks, and hats
* Wear tough, comfortable hiking boots
* Don’t get drunk on Moselle the night before you climb
* Bring your cameras to record the amazing vistas
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Jun - Aug
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Nathanael73
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Location: Michigan
Reviews written: 85
Trusted by: 89 members
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