Tasmania - Australia's Best Kept Secret!
Written: Jun 03 '06
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Incredible scenery, friendly people, excellent food, unique flora and fauna.
Cons: It's at the other end of the world!
The Bottom Line: For the nature lover, adventurer, or historian, Tasmania has it all!
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| whalewatcher's Full Review: Tasmania |
When we decided to add several days in Tasmania to our trip to the Southern Hemisphere earlier this year, we quickly learned that this remote island is not exactly a well-known tourist destination except, perhaps, for Australians and Europeans. Planning on where to go, where to stay and how to get there, takes some effort. Forget about organized tours, they are either not available or just barely touch on some of the highlights of this fascinating and incredibly diverse place, cheating you out of some truly great experiences.
We spent 9 days in Tasmania which, in retrospect, wasn't quite long enough to fully appreciate this (for the most part) still unspoiled place with dense rain forests, jagged mountain peaks, alpine meadows and lakes, stunning coast lines, pristine beaches, fertile farmlands, vineyards producing excellent wine, and a unique flora and fauna all of its own. Almost a third of the island is protected by national parks (there are 14 in all), and a little more than 20% of the total land mass has been declared a World Heritage area.
Tasmania is somewhat triangular-shaped, has a population of around 500,000, and is Australia's smallest state. It sits south-east of the mainland, separated by the 150 mile wide Bass Strait, and is bordered by the mighty Southern Ocean to the west and south, and the Tasman Sea to the east. The island's colorful history is nothing short of fascinating. Aborigines lived here for some 25,000 years before Abel Tasman, the first European, set foot on the island in 1642. Much later, in the early 1800's, the first British penal colonies were established which, in turn, provided cheap labor for a fast growing timber industry. The majestic Huon Pine, its dense wood highly favored for shipbuilding, was almost eradicated from the island. Few remain and are now protected. Sadly, it wasn't long before diseases introduced by the Europeans and brutal persecution took its toll among the native population and, by 1876, the last Aborigine had died.
After a wonderful visit to mainland Australia several years ago, we always vowed to be back. We enjoyed the friendly people, the excellent food and wine, were awed by the great cities of Sydney and Melbourne, had the pleasure of meeting our fellow epinionator SMITHSWOODSIDE and his wife in Adelaide, spent days on the Great Barrier Reef, came frighteningly close to a Salty (salt water crocodile), and rode camels at Uluru (Ayers Rock).
But Tasmania dishes out something completely different from anything one experiences on the mainland. We often had the feeling that it is a place where time stood still. The great variety in scenery reminded us more of New Zealand, but the people are clearly 'Aussie', extremely friendly, ever so helpful, and always eager to engage in conversation. For example, we pulled over to the side of the road one day to photograph an Echidna (which resembles a hedge hog). We didn't even have a chance to get out of the car before the two vehicles behind us stopped as well, and both drivers jumped out to see if we were in need of help. Try that here in the U.S. and you probably have a very long wait before anyone would be inclined to stop, at least in my neck of the woods!
Our trip started in Hobart, Tasmania's capital city and the second oldest city in all of Australia (1804). Our time here was way too short and, regretfully, we barely made a dent in all there is to do and see. We stayed at the Wrest Point Casino Tower, located just south of the city, in Sandy Bay. It's a great place with magnificent views of the Bay but, in retrospect, we would have preferred staying closer in, especially considering our time constraints. Hobart is a compact city and just about everything is within walking distance. It has a beautiful harbor front with excellent restaurants (we highly recommend 'The Drunken Admiral') and, just a block away, the Salamanca Place with lots of artsy shops and restaurants in a row of meticulously refurbished old sandstone warehouses, and a great open air market on Saturday mornings. While we were there, the 14th annual Trop-Fest attracted hundreds of people to the Salamanca Square, eager to critique selected short films of aspiring film makers which were shown on a big, open-air screen. Hobart's most dominant feature is 4165 ft. Mount Wellington which towers over the city.
We rented a car and stopped by the Cadbury Chocolate Factory on our way out of town, a modern facility with computerized and robotic production lines. It costs $12.50 AU for a tour of the place, some sampling, and plenty of free chocolate to take away :-)! 95% of the chocolate made in this location goes to the Australian market. It's a busy place so it's wise to call ahead for reservations to avoid disappointment.
Aussies drive on the left, which can be especially challenging in Tasmania, where roads are extremely narrow and winding. The upside is that there is very little traffic once you leave town and we often drove for an hour or two without meeting another vehicle. We rarely drove at night when the wildlife is most active, as evidenced by plenty of road kill. Especially wallabies, much like our deer, are quick to dart out onto the road and are difficult to avoid.
We were lucky to see Tasmanian Devils in the wild on two different occasions. In some areas (mostly in the east), their population has decreased by more than 50% as a result of the DFTD virus (Devil Facial Tumor Disease), a cancerous facial growth making it hard, if not impossible, for them to eat. Serious efforts are now made to save them from declining further. Unfortunately, Warner Brothers painted a grim picture of the Tasmanian Devil, they are not nearly as vicious and evil as their reputation, although their bone-crushing jaws can open at a 90 degree angle which gives them an especially fierce look. They are marsupials, giving birth to about 20 young (each the size of a kernel of rice) per litter. However, since only four teats are available for feeding, the majority don't survive. Mostly black in color, each devil has its own unique white markings to confuse predators.
Leaving Hobart, we drove 185 miles east to Strahan (pronounced straw-n) on Tasmania's west coast. It's a long trek considering the roads, with stretches of nothing but open countryside, eucalyptus and myrtle forests, the occasional small town or homestead, and towering mountains in the distance. Just when we were lulled into believing that each turn in the road would bring an even more spectacular sight, the landscape abruptly changed as we approached Queenstown. We were so shocked, we had to stop and look around in stunned silence. As far as the eye could see, bare, denuded hills lay ahead, with hardly a sign of life anywhere, except for a small pine tree here and there, struggling to reestablish itself in this vast moonscape of dirt and rocks. Huge copper reserves have been mined in this area for decades, but it was the smelting of the copper ore which caused this massive environmental disaster. Thankfully, any smelting ceased years ago but the projected recovery time is still estimated to be 50+ years.
Queenstown is still an active mining town and recent test drillings have shown that substantial reserves are left, promising a bright future for a town that has had its share of ups and downs. An interesting thing to do here is to actually visit a working underground copper mine. 'Douggies Mine Tours' operates 7 days a week, twice daily and gives you a fascinating 'up close and personal' experience, traveling 3 miles down into the Mount Lyell mine (1/2 mile below sea level) to observe massive, 50 ton dump trucks haul some 10,000 tons of rock containing copper ore, gold and silver to the primary crusher on a daily basis. From there the material is transported by conveyor belts to smaller crushers and, finally, to a ball mill before it emerges in the form of a fine dust at the surface. The ore concentrate is then shipped to India where it is smelted. Needless to say, 'Douggie' runs a tight ship and you had better never step out of line. Safety equipment includes hard hats, boots (it's muddy down there), safety glasses, and a miner's lamp. You travel underground by 4 wheel drive, then walk to various points of interest. It's an incredible experience and shed light on all that goes on so deep down in a mine, something I could have never imagined. The tour takes a minimum of 2 people and no more than 8 (must be 14 and older). Cost is $60 AU, about $45 US. Douggie, a former miner himself, operates out of a tiny office in the basement of a hotel across from the Railroad Station. I give this tour 5 stars!
Leaving the barren landscape behind, it's only about 26 miles from Queenstown to Strahan, which lies tucked away in the upper corner of the mighty Macquarie Harbor and is considered the gateway to Tasmania's Word Heritage Wilderness. Once an important port for the mining and timber industries, Strahan's main focus these days is on tourism. The pretty little town has recently had a major face lift when some of the old buildings were bought by Federal Hotels & Resorts and beautifully refurbished, and several new duplex cottages were added along the harbor front, where we stayed (****). The historical Hamers Hotel is part of this sprawling complex (Strahan Village) which includes a fancy restaurant high up on a hill, overlooking the harbor.
There is plenty to do in Strahan. We took the Gordon River Cruise which takes you to Hell's Gate, the rough and turbulent entrance to the harbor, past numerous fish farms (Brown Trout), and on to Sarah Island, perhaps the most notorious of all penal settlements. The trip continues up the scenic Gordon River through ancient rain forest and includes a guided walk in the World Heritage Area. It's an all day excursion and costs $80 US per person. Lunch can be purchased on board.
You can also take a train ride on the West Coast Wilderness Railway, hike old timber trails, take a trip to Ocean Beach with its crashing waves and enormous dunes, windswept by the Roaring Forties. Fishing, jet-boating, scenic flights, the choice is yours, or just stay in town, enjoy one of the many restaurants, visit a saw-mill, or spend some time in the Wharf Center which has a wonderful, comprehensive display about the West Coast's history and hosts an excellent daily reenactment (packed with plenty of humor) about the convicts' lives on Sarah Island and the successful escape of some. Maybe there is a reason the Chicago Tribune named Strahan the 'Best Little Town in the World'!
Our next destination was Cradle Mountain, a 2 hour scenic drive from Strahan, and located at the northern tip of the Cradle Mountain - St. Clair National Park. It ranks high among Tasmania's tourist attractions, thanks to the dramatic scenery, wildlife, fabulous hiking trails, and Cradle Mountain itself, its jagged peak having escaped the crushing blow of the last ice age. The park entrance fee is $20 per car and, for 9 months of the year, a narrated shuttle service is available which drops visitors off at various trail heads and points of interest. There is a range of accommodations in and near the park, including the most popular (and pricey) Cradle Mountain Chateau. Not able to get a room there, we opted for the Lemonthyme Lodge located near Moina, a 30 minute drive away. It's a fantastic choice if you want your visit to be more diverse. Tucked away in a temperate rain forest miles from civilization and any tourist traffic, hikes here were some of the highlights of our trip. We never met another soul, wildlife was abundant, and the lush fern forests and waterfalls were nothing short of magical. It was here where we had our first encounter with a Tiger Snake (3rd most poisonous) which added a bit of excitement. We also saw Rufus wallabies (Pademelons), brushtail possums, kookaburras, wombats, colorful parrots and, yes, one of those elusive Tasmanian devils.
If you only have one day at Cradle Mountain and are in reasonably good shape, we recommend the hike to Marion's point. It's challenging (allow at least 4 hours) but probably gives the most memorable views of the area and puts you almost nose to nose to the mighty mountain itself. Weather can be a factor and we talked to quite a few people throughout our travels in Tasmania whose visit to Cradle Mountain was dampened by rain or mist. Thankfully, we were lucky and enjoyed brilliant sunshine and warm temperatures. For a short walk, which is even suitable for wheelchairs, the Visitor Center Rainforest Walk to Pencil Pine Falls is a must. It is best done at dusk when sightings of wallabies and wombats are virtually guaranteed. We extended the walk by about 1/2 hour past the water fall and stumbled across a large Forester Kangaroo which was almost as startled as we were!
As much as we hated to leave this beautiful area, our next night's accommodation was booked in Launceston (lawn-se-ston), located at the head of the beautiful Tamar River Valley. It's a pretty city with century old parks, historic streetscapes, vineyards, and breweries. It is also the home of the University of Tasmania and TAFE's Academy of the Arts, as well as the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery. Launceston's riverfront has a brand new boardwalk, trendy restaurants with open-air seating and new condo complexes overlooking the confluence of the Tamar River and North Elk River. But the most famous spot is the Cateract Gorge, just a 15 minute walk from downtown. The gorge was formed by cataclysmic forces millions of years ago and you can enjoy this dramatic setting from the world's longest single span chairlift. The ride is surprisingly short, but a nice little restaurant with beautiful gardens and strutting peacocks are the reward on the other side, or climb up to the look-out for gorgeous views of the city and beyond. If a chairlift isn't your thing, you can also get there by way of a suspension or 'swinging' bridge. The presence of an absolutely huge public pool makes this a favorite spot for the locals during the summer months, and the winding gorge, lined with gigantic boulders and private little coves, is a popular hide-out for those seeking complete privacy.
We stayed at The Old Bakery Inn while in Launceston, an old historic building dating back to 1870. The 24 room Inn has been completely remodeled, with some of the original ovens still left intact in the foyer. Its location in the heart of the city is ideal for exploring and prices are reasonable.
Our travels continued south-east across the island to Freycinet National Park which offers some of the most spectacular coastal scenery anywhere. This is one place you don't want to miss! The combination of pink granite cliffs, gorgeous white sand beaches, lagoons filled with hundreds of black swans, sea eagles soaring in the wind, and the smell of nearby eucalyptus forests is hard to match. And there are wonderful hikes for any ability. An absolute must is the climb to the Wineglass Bay look-out affording spectacular views of one of the world's 10 best beaches. This is nature at its best, you might even stumble upon a wallaby or wombat or, offshore, spot a pod of dolphins or the occasional Humpback Whale. It was here where we encountered our second Tiger snake, thankfully a much smaller and less intimidating one.
Birders can delight in birds such as the beautiful yellow-tailed cockatoo, eastern spinebill, or yellow-throated and New Holland honeyeaters. Especially entertaining are the Australasian gannets who repeatedly dive into the ocean at break-neck speed in an effort to catch fish. Hooded Plovers, whose numbers have dropped below 2000 in all of Australia, still nest along Friendly Beaches, an endless stretch of secluded, wind-swept beach with salt- and fresh water lagoons, barking sand dunes and few, if any, people.
We stayed in individual cabins at the eco-friendly Freycinet Lodge within the park, a great choice if you can splurge a little. Tucked away in the bush, the cabins are connected by raised walk-ways to the main lodge, where you can sit by a roaring fire, watch the sun set over the Great Oyster Bay, and have a meal in their fabulous Bay Restaurant. Top that off with some excellent local wine and, boy, it doesn't get much better than that.
Freycinet has an excellent Visitor's Center with very good interpretative displays and is staffed with knowledgeable and very friendly park rangers. Entrance into the park requires a pass and cost varies depending on the length of your stay.
Activities here include anything from sea kayaking and mountain biking to 4 wheel drive adventures, scenic flights, marine farm tours, even abseiling. Or take a drive up the coast to the small town of Bechino, visit the blow hole and stay to watch hundreds of Fairy Penguins come ashore at dark. Although extremely shy, they make a good bit of noise and are easily identified once your eyes have adjusted to the darkness. Their burrows are along the shore where they raise their young. Locals are fiercely protective of them and a strict leash law is in effect during the nesting season.
Bicheno's Sealife Center is not much to write home about but it has a great restaurant. The seafood chowder is outstanding and since the facility sits right along the shore overlooking the bay, it's another vantage point from where to watch the penguins, especially since the Center has special permission to keep exterior lights on for 45 minutes after dark. The otherwise shy penguins seem to have gotten used to it and happily come ashore in great numbers, right below the restaurant.
Almost always, the beaches were completely empty, often only with our own footprints and those of gulls, pelicans, pied oystercatchers and other sea birds or, perhaps, the occasional track left by an opportunistic wallaby, brushtail possum or quoll, looking for what the tide might have brought in. It's a pure nature lover's delight, peaceful and serene, unspoiled, wild, and exceptionally beautiful.
The weather in Tasmania, classified as 'temperate maritime', is totally unpredictable. We encountered drizzle while in Hobart (Australia's 2nd driest city), it was hot with crystal clear blue skies at Cradle Mountain where we expected cool temperatures and rain, and it was windy and cool on the Freycinet Peninsula where we thought it would be warmest. I guess that's island weather for you! Tasmania does have four distinct seasons and gets a significant amount of snow in the mountain regions.
I did most of the research for this trip on the Internet but had some difficulties with booking and/or even finding accommodations. That ordeal was simplified once I stumbled across hotelclub.net which saved me additional frustration and had great rates. As an added bonus, you can collect points for free world-wide stays in the future.
Nature has definitely smiled upon this remote spot on Earth and that so much of it remains untouched by human habitation is, perhaps, Tasmania's biggest attraction. It can't be appreciated through the window of a tour bus, one must get out to explore the National Parks, stand on one of those spectacular pink granite peaks and breathe some of the cleanest air in the world or, deep in the rain forest, sit by a waterfall and watch the fine mist settle on those magnificent giant tree ferns.
If you love seafood, you'll be in heaven here. Taste the local wild leatherwood honey, it's the best anywhere, or dip your bread in olive oil and 'bush dust', a delicious concoction of various herbs and spices.
Although tourism to Australia has increased tremendously in recent times, Tasmania has yet to find its place on the travel list for Americans. We only encountered a few. So far, it's mostly mainland Australians and Europeans who come here to enjoy nature's bounty, learn about the fascinating history, and take away some truly incredible experiences.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
Reviews written: 197
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About Me:
Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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