Aitutaki: The Myth is Real (Part 1)
Written: Jun 01 '02 (Updated Aug 20 '04)
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: Quiet, Solitude, Beauty
Cons: Remote with few activities
The Bottom Line: The dream of staying on a remote tropical island with not another living soul can be yours
|
|
|
| LordBalfor's Full Review: Aitutaki |
Ever dream of being a castaway on a remote tropical island - far from the hassles and worries of the everyday modern world? Ever fantasize about a lazy, slow-paced life living on coconuts, bananas and freshly-caught fish from a lovely tropical lagoon? How about of swaying contentedly in a hand-made rope hammock strung from two palm trees as you're caressed by a warm, gentle tropical breeze?
Of course you have. Who hasn't?
Ever since Captain Cook and the other European explorers first came upon Hawaii, Tahiti, and the other far-flung islands of the "South Seas" more than two centuries ago, the fantasy of living the good life on a remote tropical island has been one of the Western World's most enduring myths - and even though the reality of life on a tiny, secluded tropical island is actually somewhat different, the fantasy image remains. If anything, the legend has grown over the years. Everyone knows the story of the mutineers of HMS Bounty and how they made their fateful decision to take up arms and sail away forever to a tropical paradise rather than return to dreary old England (Aitutaki was the last landfall of HMS Bounty prior to the famous mutiny - which occured 17 days later). Of course few people are aware of the fact that life afterwards was actually far from Idyllic and that in fact most of the men would die within a few short years. The fact is, the reality fades from memory while the myth lives on - after all, who doesn't dream of a quiet, stress-free life where your hardest decision is whether to take a nap then go for a swim ..... or ..... go for a swim then take a nap?
Yes, the myth is just that - a myth - still, there is some truth to the legend, some substance to the dream. There are indeed places that are (physically at least) exactly what every person yearning for such a life dreams of - islands that are quiet, unhurried, laid-back - and even in some cases, uninhabited (though there's usually a reason for that). More than perhaps any other place on earth, the South Pacific is the place of such dreams. Stretched across a swath of ocean perhaps 1500 miles wide and more than 4000 miles long lay hundreds and hundreds of balmy tropical islands. A handful of them are substantially large, but most range from tiny to miniscule. From the lush, jungle-clad coast of northern Australia to the barren, windswept hills of Easter Island, they lay scattered about by the hand of God like precious emerald jewels tossed upon the azure seas. Some, like Tahiti and Rarotonga, are "High Islands", remains of once-mighty volcanic cones that tower still over the surrounding seas, while others like Aitutaki and Rangaroa have been reduce by time, wind and rain to mere atolls (or near-atolls) - ancient remnants that barely remain above the surface of the sea.
These latter are mere shadows of their former selves - islands so very old that the weather has nearly worn them away. The South Pacific has hundreds of such places... and they are some of the most remarkable and beautiful spots on earth. These ancient, nearly gone islands are the very image of the myth. They are tiny, low-lying places usually crowned with a canopy of coconut palms and fringed with a wide, shallow lagoon teeming with tropical fish. In some cases the central core of the island is gone entirely, leaving just the surrounding reef and a necklace of tiny islets (known as Motus). These motus are usually very low-lying, often the highest point has an elevation of only one or two feet above high tide. In times of severe weather (such as a typhoon), extreme low pressure causes the sea level to rise so that the motus are sometimes entirely submerged and mountainous waves wash completely over them, leaving only the most tenacious of palms clinging precariously to life under 10 feet or more of roiling water. Fortunately, such horrific occurrences are rare, and most of the time these tiny precious bits of earth bask in the warm tropical sun safely protected from the pounding waves by the outlying edges of the coral reef. They are truly delightful places that are simply wondrous to behold, and I have had the good fortune to see 2 such ancient islands on our journeys - one of them (Bora Bora) still has quite a substantial central core, while the other (Aitutaki) has much less remaining of the original island. Both however, have amazing lagoons and delightful collections of palm-studded motus. Bora Bora is perhaps the most incredible place I have ever seen. Aitutaki, though it lacks the overwhelming presence of it's French Polynesian neighbor, nevertheless is quite a place to experience as well and is (not surprisingly) often compared to it's larger cousin to the east. While both have substantial cores remaining, it is the massive lagoons that make up the bulk of each islands' area and for which both are predominantly known.
Aitutaki, second most-visited of the Cook Islands, lies about 150 miles due north of Rarotonga. Air Rarotonga operates several flights there (from Raro) everyday but Sunday and currently operates 2 types of aircraft: a smaller twin-engined prop-jet that carries around 15 people and a larger aircraft holding just over 30. I think the smaller plane seats folks one to each side, with an aisle in the middle, while the larger plane seats 2 passengers on the right side and 1 on the left side, with an aisle in between. The larger plane is a little faster and makes the one-way trip in 45 minutes or so. I believe the smaller planes take just under an hour to get there. In any event, as it is a short flight either way, don't expect much in the way of meal service. We took the first flight of the day (leaving around 8:00 AM) from Raro to Aitutaki (flying on the larger plane) and received a muffin and juice or coffee. We caught the returning flight on our way back to Raro (leaving Aitutaki around 9:00 AM) and were served a small package of cookies and juice or water. Overall, the flight was good. Service from the single attendant was satisfactory and the seats were comfortable enough. Since these are small planes, flying at generally lower altitudes (I think we got up to only about 14,000 feet or so), I imagine it can sometimes be a bit bumpy. In our case, we hit a little rough air, but generally it was a fairly smooth flight. If you tend to get airsick however, you might consider taking Dramamine before you take off just to be safe.
Aitutakis' lagoon is roughly triangular in shape, with one corner to the north and the other two to the east and west. The main island stretches from the north tip of the lagoon to about halfway down its' western side, with a reef perhaps 1/2 mile from shore. The eastern side of the triangular lagoon is bordered by a more or less solid string of motus, while the south is mostly just a bare reef with a couple of scattered motus along it (notably at the corners). The center of the triangle and therefore the bulk of the islands' "area" is made up of the water of the lagoon. This lagoon is essentially one large swimming pool with an average depth of just over 15 feet (5-6 meters). The deepest spot is about 40 feet or so, while vast areas are shallow enough to wade around in - even though the nearest dry land may be a mile or so across the lagoon.
Our plane approached from the SSE and since we were seated on the left side of the plane (one behind the other) we looked out over the bulk of the lagoon as we approached. I think the seats on the left side offered a bit better view during the initial approach though neither side of the aircraft had a bad view - especially once we were actually over the lagoon - at that point people on the right side had perhaps the better view. In any event I really don't think it matters too awfully much which side you sit on - as long as the wind is not out of the northwest. It seems to me that in that case the planes would likely approach from the southeast and come directly in rather than passing over the lagoon and swinging back around. In that event, I would think the best views would be from the left side of the aircraft. Seats in front of the wing will no doubt offer the very best visibility, while those over the wing will obviously have the worse. Aitutaki's airstrip is situated at the northern apex of the triangle and is comprised of one long strip of runway (non-paved, crushed & packed coral) that is bent in the middle so that there are actually 2 different runways with the terminal at the bend. Our flight flew completely over the lagoon and the main island, then banked right just south of the main village of Arutanga and headed on in to the northeast to land on the western section of runway. When we left, we took off on the other southeast-facing airstrip thereby passing directly over the Pearl Beach Resort and the motus along the eastern side of the lagoon.
The terminal building, like the runway, is primitive - comprised of a simple open partially thatched-roof structure and a few wooden benches. To arrive on Aitutaki is to feel like you've begun an adventure. Rarotonga's airport felt like many others I've seen - small and tropical to be sure, but basically modern and familiar. Aitutakis' however, felt like a remote exotic place. My first thought was "Wow, this is cool! Now I REALLY feel like I'm off on a tiny South Pacific island!" That impression was reinforced as we climbed into the shuttle van and headed down the bumpy dirt road that skirted the runway. The land along the airstrip was recently logged-off (apparently an aviation safety requirement) and rather unkempt. Off in the distance a low, rounded, grass-covered hill looked down on us across a level landscape of coconut palms. It was not really a beautiful scene, but definitely felt exotic and remote. I turned to my wife and told her with a smile "I don't think we're in Kansas anymore!"
Indeed we were not (nor in Seattle either for that matter). Aitutaki is a very small island, measuring roughly 7 miles across the lagoon's widest (southern) stretch and 9 miles or so from north to south. Remember too that it is mostly lagoon, with very little actual land. It seemed dryer than Rarotonga, with more grassland and open area and less of the dense forest that Raro offered so much of. Maximum elevation is a little over 300 feet and hills are generally rounded and smooth. There are no large towns, only a single small port (Arutanga - comprised of a handful of buildings) and a scattered collection of even smaller villages and individual homes. Major sources of income here are tourism and some small-scale farming. The local government (as on Rarotonga) derives additional revenue through production and sales of beautiful stamps to collectors throughout the world. Total population of the island is officially a little over 2,000 but I was told that it's declining as many of the young people move to Raro (or even New Zealand) in search of jobs. The unofficial estimate is about 1,800.
There is one small stretch of paved road, otherwise all routes are either crushed coral or simple dirt. Many of these "roads" are little more than narrow tracks, and the general atmosphere of the place is one of remoteness. The surrounding reef makes it impossible for large ships to enter the lagoon. Consequently the infrequent cargo vessels that call here are forced to unload just outside the reef and bring in their freight on shallow-bottomed lighters. The lack of any kind of economy of scale means that this is a fairly expensive island compared to Raro - especially in regards to store-bought grocery items. As a result, we found that it almost didn't pay to try and save money by cooking your own meals (unless you make a habit of dining at the Pearl Beach). My recommendation therefor is to just go ahead and eat out. For more information on this subject, see the section marked "Dining".
Accommodations (Are Tamanu - $150 - $175 USD/Night):
I had booked our stay at the Are Tamanu Resort, situated on the west side of the island about half-way between the airport and the town of Arutanga. Like most of the accommodations on Aitutaki, this is a small, family-run place with a very informal atmosphere. A while back there were a number of complaints posted on Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree bulletin board about people having problems with the management of this resort. Though we were at the place shortly after these events apparently happened, we had no problems in any of our dealings with anyone there. I wouldn't even mention it, except that it seemed to stir up a lot of attention on the website and it's possible you may come upon the posts. In any event, our overall impression of the place was very positive.
It is perhaps a 10-minute drive from the airport at a slow, leisurely pace, and since this was the very first in-bound flight of the day, it was of course still early (a little after 9 am) when we arrived. As a result, our bungalow was not yet ready, otherwise check-in was smooth and uncomplicated. After the paperwork was dealt with, we were led from the small office, through the gateway into the resort proper, and down the winding sidewalk between 2 rows of bungalows to the small pool-side bar. Here we were offered the daily complimentary breakfast of fruit, cereal, toast, coffee and juice and told that our hut would be ready in just a few minutes. I have very vivid memories of ambling down this path. It was an absolutely glorious day, with hardly a cloud to be seen (img290 in my Aitutaki album on Webshots was taken at that moment - see the link below for more details). The resort grounds were spotless (as were the units). Overhead the palm fronds were dazzling green in the morning sun. On Raro they were (and still are I believe) suffering from an infestation of some parasite that is slowly eating away at the core of the fronds of many of the trees, resulting in gray, dead-looking foliage. That infestation had apparently not yet struck Aitutaki (at least not in force) and the palm trees here were much more vibrantly green.
A few short yards away a beautiful white coral sand beach beckoned, and beyond that, the absolutely drop-dead gorgeous waters of the lagoon. As soon as we saw this, we knew we had done well in choosing this place. Having just spent a week on the gorgeous south shore of Rarotonga, we now knew exactly the kind of water conditions we were looking for - lots of open sand with scattered coral towers that become more frequent the further out you go. We wanted to be able to wade for a long way out in water waist to chest deep, and have it gradually get deeper from there. This was exactly what we found at the Are Tamanu - and it was obvious even from shore.
My absolute most vivid memory of the entire vacation is of us standing next to the small horizon pool near the bar, first looking out across the sand at this lagoon. The water was a dazzling aquamarine blue, with the submerged coral heads showing up as darker spots beneath the surface. The sun was sparkling off the gentle waters and the morning air was still and warm. Suddenly a school of hundreds (perhaps even thousands) of tiny silver fish leapt directly in front of us. There were so many of them that they made a long drawn-out "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" sound as they jumped from the water and then fell back into it again in an almost endless stream - rather like the sound of a waterfall or a fast running stream. It was very, very cool. My wife and I just looked at each other and beamed. "Yes" we thought, "this was going to do nicely."
And indeed it did. The Are Tamanu Resort is a great place - not perfect mind you, but pretty darned nice. Let me start with the few things we didn't like about it as there are fewer negatives than positives. First of all, I thought that (except for the Honeymoon Suite) the bungalows were pretty close together - not exactly conductive to romance. Secondly, because the property is long and narrow, the only bungalow to offer a full, uninterrupted view of the lagoon is this very same Honeymoon Suite. This unit costs a bit more than the other bungalows, but not excessively so - still there is only one of them. My third criticism is that the resort lacks a real restaurant. The bar does serve cold breakfast foods and you are able to obtain simple sandwiches up until 4:00 p.m. but other than a special barbecue one night a week, there is no dinner service. The final drawback to the Are Tamanu is that it sits on the leeward side of the island so there was often little or no breeze. This of course made it perhaps a little warmer than we like but more importantly, it meant that the mosquitoes were able to get airborne. These little critters are very poor fliers and we'd found that on Raro there'd always been enough wind along the shore to keep them grounded. On Aitutaki that wasn't always the case, and we got eaten up on a few occasions. The lesson here is to bring your insect repellant and wear it.
Now, don't let these drawbacks deter you, because the plusses of this resort are considerable. When I first started planning our trip, we'd intended to stay at the Aitutaki Pearl Beach Resort (we'd stayed at the one on Bora Bora and really liked it). However, the recent downturn in the stock market meant that we had bit less money to spend than we'd planned. Part of the way we saved a little cash was by selecting the 3-star Are Tamanu over the 4-star Pearl Beach. This had been a hard decision to make as we'd really had our heart set on the Pearl Beach. However, in hindsight, it proved to be a wise choice - and not just from a financial aspect. First off, let me admit that the bungalows at the Are Tamanu are not anywhere near as plush as those at the Pearl Beach. I know this for a fact (at least in regards to the Pearl Beach's "overwater" bungalows) because we toured one - the huts at the Are Tamanu are however, decent-sized, clean, and (since they were brand-new) in excellent repair. Also, the grounds of the Are Tamanu, while not anywhere near the size of the sprawling Pearl Beach, were very nicely landscaped and again terrifically maintained.
The one big advantage however of the Are Tamanu over the Pearl Beach was the water. It seemed to me that the water around the Pearl Beach tended to be rather murky. True, you had great views of the central lagoon from the Pearl Beach, but water in the immediate area just didn't look that inviting. This is important because one of the main reasons for going to Aitutaki in the first place is to experience the warm, crystal clear waters the island has to offer. The Are Tamanu gave us that at our doorstep (or pretty darned close) - the Pearl Beach wouldn't have. Now before any of you readers out there who've stayed at the Pearl Beach and had clear water conditions jump all over me, let me admit that the murky condition at the Pearl Beach might not be the norm (I really have no idea). I can only report what I found at the time. In any event we were very happy with the Are Tamanu. The bungalows were very nice, the service good, and the swimming and snorkeling were to simply die for.
On Rarotonga we'd really loved the beaches of the South Shore and had seen all kinds of fish. Here, it was even better. The water was nothing short of amazing, with even more fish (both numbers and varieties) than anyplace we'd seen on Raro. It was simply breath taking. The beaches of course (as on Rarotonga) were pretty much deserted most of the time. Since there's not really any other large resorts anywhere nearby, the only people to be seen at all were pretty much the other guests at the Are Tamanu - and since it's a small place, there weren't many of them.
This brings me to another plus of this resort (something that interestingly enough I'd also marked as a negative) - and that's the fact that the resort occupies a long narrow strip of land with a limited waterfront. This means that the bulk of the bungalows all face in towards each other rather than directly towards the lagoon. At first, we didn't like this aspect of the resort. It didn't affect us directly as we'd booked the Honeymoon Suite and therefor had a full ocean view in any event, but the other couples staying there all had bungalows that looked in sort of towards each other (and sort of towards the beach). The result was that there was very little real privacy if you chose to sit on your porch and only a partial view of the lagoon. As I said, this sounds like a negative, and it is in a way - but it also proved to be a surprising plus. This is because the design tended to bring people together and encourage interaction. The owners told us they want their guests to feel like a family, and personally, I think they succeeded in this. We met many wonderful folks here and had a great time socializing. Whether or not this was deliberate on the part of the designers of the resort is open to debate - we did find however, that planned or not, we did grow close to the others staying there.
I have a few other thoughts on accommodations on Aitutaki that I thought I'd share with you. Keep in mind that all of these observations were of limited duration, so don't take them as gospel. Note also that all prices are approximate. You will may get a better price dealing directly with the resort rather than through a travel agent.
Aitutaki Lagoon Resort ($150 - $500 USD/Night):
Once part of the first-rate Pearl Beach Resorts chain, this was (when we went to Aitutaki) the largest and most expensive resort on the island. It's situated on it's own private motu just south of the airport along the east side of the lagoon and offers a selection of garden, beach, lagoon view, and overwater (just slightly) bungalows. It's the starting point for most of the water-based tours of the lagoon, and if you take any of these tours you will probably have a chance to at least take a peek at this sprawling complex. I took a look at one of the new overwater bungalows and found it to be extremely upscale and romantic with some nice exotic touches like an outside shower in a small private (walled) garden area. I've read some rather mixed reviews about the condition of the garden units, but I believe (not sure) that they were refurbished recently (you might check on this). Traditionally, this has been where the "rich and famous" who visit Aitutaki stay (though that may change with the opening of the new Pacific Resort).
Pacific Resort ($175 - $400 USD/Night):
If you are going to Aitutaki and want to stay at a more upscale resort than the Are Tamanu, there will soon be another option besides the Pearl Beach. In September of 2002, Pacific Resorts is scheduled to open a brand new establishment on the west side of the island just a bit south of the Are Tamanu. I visited the site while construction was going on and was much impressed. It's a great location with terrific views and great water - the latter much better than at the Pearl Beach in my opinion. I believe this will become the premiere resort on the island - and it will charge accordingly.
Paradise Cove ($12 - $85 USD/Night):
On the other hand, if the Are Tamanu is a bit steep for you, you might consider Paradise Cove. It's situated a few hundred yards north of the Are Tamanu on that very same stretch of great beach. There is one section near the shore where it looked like the water dropped off pretty quickly, otherwise it seemed to gradually get deeper in the same manner as the beaches near the Are Tamanu. The spot where the bottom fell away quickly right near shore seemed like it had a whole lot of fish and possibly some nice coral. Snorkeling here is probably terrific. The brand new "Lagoon Bungalows" were very, very close together, but otherwise they looked (from the outside anyway) pretty decent. The resort seemed to be aimed mostly at a younger, more "backpack" oriented crowd than the Are Tamanu, and until the new "Lagoon Bungalows" were built, featured only very basic accommodations (shared kitchen, no hot water etc). It seems now that they are trying to edge their way up. Overall however, I'd have to say this is still a "backpacker" oriented place with a "hostel" type atmosphere, and is apparently popular with that crowd. Directly across the road from this resort is the trail that takes you up to the highest point on the island (perhaps a 10 minutes hike) where you can take some great photos (img40 & img41 in my Webshots "Aitutaki" album were taken from that location)
Matriki Beach Huts ($17 USD/Night):
A set of relatively basic huts right next door to the Are Tamanu. There are at the moment 3 of these units, each apparently with a fridge, cooking facilities and a small stereo. The toilet facilities are unfortunately a shared "nature toilet" (I've been told there is NO odor), but the price is very low and you are right on the same great beach as the Are Tamanu. This place is suitable for those adventurous types who want to experience a rustic adventure on a tropical island and who'd be happy simply to camp (if it was allowed in the Cooks) - or those who want a taste of living on a remote tropical island, but don't quite want to take it to the same level as at the One Foot Hideaway.
Rhino's Holiday Apartments ($55 - $200 USD/Night):
Located more or less across the road from where the new Pacific Resort is going up, these units (it seemed to me that they were all in one building, but I won't swear to it), are built at the base of one of the small hills on the island not too far from Ralphies Bar and Grill (another spot that apparently offers weekly Polynesian shows). The beach is perhaps a 4-minute walk away (likely route might take you through the Pacific Resort).
Aitutaki Lodges ($90 USD/Night):
Located on a small bluff above the water along the east side of the main island, the 2-storey units apparently offer terrific view of the entire lagoon (probably the best on Aitutaki). The beaches on that side of the island however looked to be comprised mostly of mud flats. I understand that there is a clear swimming beach not too far (whatever that means) from the property, but none directly in front. Keep in mind however that I have NOT been to the property myself, so I cannot personally verify this. Numerous postings on some of the various travel website bulletin boards however, have made these facts abundantly clear.
One Foot Hideaway ($80 USD/Night):
An exotic place to stay for the adventurous. This rather primitive beach batch is the only place to stay on beautiful One Foot Island (a remote motu of Aitutaki) and offers you a chance to "live the dream" of being stranded in a remote tropical paradise. There is no electricity here. Lighting is by kerosene lamps and cooking by a gas oven top or BBQ. Food supplies are apparently brought to you each day on the large catamaran that brings in the daily load of tourists (see the "Activities" section). At 4 PM or so, the day boats go home and the entire motu (most assuredly one of the MOST lovely in the entire South Pacific - see numerous photos in my Webshots "Aitutaki" album - and note that even those photos don't do the place justice) is yours and yours alone. Your nearest neighbor will probably be several miles away across the lagoon and for all intents and purposes, you will be the only people in the world. I understand that the mozzies are very fierce and aggressive here after dark however, so bring lots of insect repellent.
Note that some additional places have been built since we were there (including the remote (and very pricey) Teal Retreat on another of Aitutaki's remote motus) - so you might want to do some further investigation before booking anywhere.
I have photos of the Pearl Beach, Pacfic Resort, and Paradise Cove (along with pictures of the Are Tamanu) in my "Cook Islands Resort and Rental Houses" album posted on Webshots. If you are interested in seeing these pictures you might check out the site. The URL is listed at the end of this review.
...Continued in Part 2 (Under "General Itineraries - The South Pacific" - Click on "View All Reviews by LordBalfor")
or...
simply go here:
http://www.epinions.com/content_2670633092
Oh, and here's a link to our photos of Aitutaki:
http://community.webshots.com/user/lordbalfor
Note as of Oct 13, 2002: The Aitutaki Pearl Beach has been sold and renamed back to it's original name of "the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort". Not sure what impact there will be (if any).
Note as of Aug 20th, 2004: As I predicted, the Aitutaki Pacific Resort is getting rave reviews from folks who stay there. If you can afford it (they raised the prices even higher), this sounds like the place to stay on Aitutaki.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Mar - May
|
|
|
|
Epinions.com ID:
LordBalfor
|
 - Top 1000 |
|
Member: Ken Klein
Location: Seattle, Wa
Reviews written: 36
Trusted by: 109 members
About Me:
I am in love with the tropics (especially the South Pacific).
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.