Raro & an Aitutaki update
Written: May 02 '01
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Warm gracious people. Great topography. Classic island spirit lives!
Cons: No top tier hotels and services. Can be chilly at night. Scuba not the best.
The Bottom Line: Take a break from the information age. Relax and enjoy this world. An exceptional place for healing what ails you. The people, the islands and lagoons. The sunsets. The quiet.
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| stutch's Full Review: Rarotonga |
Cook Islands- Rarotonga and Aitutaki
3 weeks on Raro too long.
Endless weeks on Aitutaki divine.
I would do it again if so inclined.
Happy to say fall/winter 2000 was on Raro and Aitutaki. Exceptional places.
As predicted, Aitutaki (please see my previous post) has not changed much in the past 10 years, but Raro certainly has.
RAROTONGA
What a graceful friendly island. Raro is getting to be a busy little place. Reminds me of Tahiti 15years ago. More cars, not enough beds yet thankfully no franchises or buildings higher than a coconut tree. There’s an ATM and internet access is abundant. Still no hardcore tourist restaurants. Some of the best eating is found in the easygoing local spots.
Raro has strong mountain peaks to satisfy the Bali Hai in all of us. Small villages and markets. Chickens everywhere. The pace is slow, low stress and geared to make you adhere. If you don’t shift you may be frustrated. What’s your hurry?
One of the most mind-blowing aspects is the scale. There are more people on one block of NYC than the entire country of The Cook Islands! Locals are a traveling bunch. Most have traveled to Australia and New Zealand only to return home. There’s smattering of expats from NZ and elsewhere. Also striking is the pride locals take in their gardens. Yes the parents and grandparents are often buried in the front yard; but the profusion of horticultural expertise is a treat for the eyes and nose.
Another good reason to explore The Cooks is they are comparatively inexpensive. The US$ against the NZ$ packs a good punch. Sized up against Hawaii, Fiji, Pulau and especially French Polynesia, The Cooks are a bargain. If you are planning to stay awhile, what you spend on air will be saved on rooms, goods and services.
Muri Beach is still a delightful quiet lagoon. Motus, white sand, shallow water, albeit not a lot of life underwater. Sails restaurant has the best food on the island or the country for that matter. Great atmosphere, drinks, food and service. Don’t expect to run into many Americans. Mostly Canadians, Euro and Aussi/Kiwis.
Muri beach also means you are a very enjoyable 20-minute ride away from town. Other than a movie and a couple of nightspots, not much happens in this town after dark. Friday and Saturday nights can get rowdy but this is a pretty sleepy country. I did rent a car (US$35) to drive around the island. Mopeds are good if it isn’t too rainy. But the 2 island buses are the best way (US$2 r/t). The drivers are amusing and it’s a very social ride. Just stand on the road and it will stop nearby. They go around about every hour in opposite directions. There’s only one real road on the island. The last bus home is usually around 10 PM.
Early room reservations are essential all over The Cooks. Tourism is booming and there are barely enough rooms for all the flights coming in. The quality of the rooms varies from very good to very motel and on down. I love great hotels; but I don’t go to The Cooks expecting 5 star quality. It simply doesn’t happen. Favorites are The Edgewater Resort, The Rarotongan, The Beachcomer with The Pacific Resort being the most popular. They all provide a chill setting with food and activities. Rates are reasonable.
There are tons of guesthouses catering to the backpacker crowd. Vara’s seemed to be a favorite 23-196.
Hotels are wonderful but if I am somewhere for more than a week I prefer to rent cottages or houses. john@taakokavillas.co.ck is certainly a champion at finding places. Just make certain your agent clearly understands your itinerary and triple check.
Depending on your velocity, Raro has about 2 week’s worth of activities. The hike over the island (4-5 hours) with Pa is a big hit. The obligatory ‘Island Night’ music and dancing contest at any of the hotels. Shopping is fun. Raro has a music scene with a surprising breadth of local and pop, drop into Raro Records. Also a bunch of tourist things I don’t do very well. Birdwatching, stamp collecting, etc.
I am one to play in the sun, read, sleep and snorkel.
Scuba is pretty good. Three things are having a major impact on the quality: Coral bleaching from global warming. Over fishing in the Pacific throughout the 1990’s. And an overabundance of poisonous spiny sea stars. The water is warm but a scuba skin is a good idea. Some found schools of sharks and pelagics. There are a couple of outfits providing daily trips and lessons.
Flights are expanding. Tourist advertising is focused on Europe and Canada so that’s where many of the flights originate. Air New Zealand is biggest. But a small airline, Canada 3000, has recently introduced exceptionally affordable flights. The LAX-RAR Friday Air New Zealand fight is direct and easiest for me from NYC. Many flights stop in Papeete, Tahiti. It’s really hard for me to not get off and stay.
In-country there’s only one way to go, Air Rarotonga. Aitutaki 3x a day.
AITUTAKI
Just when you thought it couldn’t get any slower along comes Aitutaki.
Now here is the gem. Tourists exclaim, “I can’t believe there’s a place like this left on earth”. It’s true. This is a backwater gem that has a fabulous mix of support for the traveler/tourist and a strong local flavor. Drive down the street two times and people will be waving to you as though you have been there forever. It’s exceptional to see a Sunday where the streets are empty for hours, except for the chickens.
If anything it’s better than it was when I visited in 1990.
You can sense an explosion in the air. Aitutaki may not be this way much longer. Expansion of existing lodging and the build out of several new endeavors is certain to change the face of Aitutaki.
It’s a perfect place to go and slowdown.
People’s reactions can be mixed. Some people long for more action while others are reluctant to leave. Some people simply cannot slow down. I witnessed an American make a fool of himself when he ran into the kitchen to yell at the chef for taking to long. This flexibility bodes well for a carefree voyage if you can let go. If wound too tight you may be happier elsewhere, unless you have come to unwind.
With little else, you will want a moped. There’s always somewhere to go and sometimes it’s a way’s away. Some people pedal bikes around, but on a hot Sunday? Forget it! I truly enjoyed paying for my moped. More than a reason to drive across the island but a time to hang out with the family that runs the deal. At first it may seem weird to spend an afternoon paying a simple bill but that’s part of the beauty of Aitutaki. It doesn’t matter. That can be the pace of things. Slow down and enjoy the warm people.
It’s a rare place that works this way.
I rented from the petrol station Vaipai (31-489 ask for Vaia). They will deliver.
There are other options (Rino’s rentals 31-197; Swiss rentals 31-600).
The Cooks may be the last place on earth with no drinking and driving laws.
It’s really the people that make Aitutaki. Incredibly approachable social people. Get out and accept any invitations that come your way. A simple transaction can easily turn into more.
Day & Nightlife: Charge in the daytime with a Lagoon cruise, visit Philip Low the ukelele craftsman extraordinaire, golf, swim, read, fish, write, sail, do nothing. Wednesday night happens down at the harbor: The Fishing Club for the older crowd and Island Night at the Seabreeze (recently renamed). Thursday, Crusher Bar with host Riki is the place to be. Things get rolling pretty hard on Fridays: Ralphies is the hot spot and expect it to be a sweet evening of dancing and drinking. Saturday Ralphies again but everything shuts down at midnight. Sunday there’s an afternoon beach party at Samedi that’s worth the drive. Great time to play volleyball, run into people you have met around the island and laze in the warm, shallow, white sand waters. I found the Full Moon Party at Samedi spotty and it’s nothing like Thailand’s.
Tip: After you have seen enough Island Nights, arrive after the show, 9ish, to enjoy the local flavor.
Money doesn’t speak too loudly. The economy is more hunter/gatherer than capitalist. Sharing and gifts are a way of life. I went for weeks without a wallet. There’s no bank. The bank that flys-in on Wednesdays has the best exchange rate. There is the Post office, Resort and Ralphies’ store but the rates are not as good. Credit cards are okay but don’t expect to pay for the day to day that way. Traveler’s checks are easiest.
The Lagoon cruise biz has expanded giving many options ranging from the 20 person (Bishop Cruises) to the small (Safari Tours). These are day trips that ensure you get your fill of the many islets/motus around the gorgeous lagoon. Lunch and snorkeling are included.
Amazingly Neil Mitchell is the lone scuba operator. Neil has been on the island over 15 years. (Single tank boat dives US$35 w/ gear). The diving is absolutely fun but admittedly not the world’s best (see Raro scuba note). scuba@aitutaki.net.ck
It’s tough to beat an afternoon snorkel at the end of the runway. A happy maze of coral with a sandy bottom, complemented by blowfish, eels, rays, and tropical fish. Shallow so if you get tired just stand up.
Where to stay: Get your reservation way ahead of time. The Lagoon Resort is the top-drawer spot but away from all the villages. I prefer to stay near town. Many Aitutaki visitors are backpackers doing the world. This is their South Pacific stop. Paradise Cove does this very well. A mix of rooms and thatched bungalows on a great beach, with sunsets and a swimming hole. Aitutaki also has numerous guesthouses.
The Rapae Hotel is closed and undergoing some major upgrades. Set to reopen 2002. There is also a group of 12 bungalows opening near Amuri.
I found most rates to be very reasonable.
Aitutaki long-term tips: Expect to eat fairly simply. Fruit is wonderfully abundant. Get fish and crabs at the Friday morning market or catch them yourself. The options for food shopping can get boring and there are few restaurants. Fresh vegetables are scarce and expensive, US$6 for a small head of broccoli. Real coffee is non-existent (hate Nescafe). While on Raro consider shopping the CITI supermarket, then fly-in with your favorite items. It can pay off for weeks. Fresh café-presse every morning for example.
Mossies (mosquitoes) can be vicious and thick. Purchasing a plug-in mossie killer is a great solution.
Your long term lodging bet is to call Junior or Paula. (31-069 Maina Traders, country code 682). Some houses for rent but they are often booked months in advance. I loved my house but others can be rustic.
The Cook Islands offer a great range of islands at various rates of development. Many people enjoy the easy trip to Aitu for spelunking and bush beer. Getting to the outer islands of Manihii, Penryn and Puka Puka is the starting point for another big adventure. Don’t worry I’ll get there. I’m already saving for the yacht.
3 weeks on Raro too long.
Endless weeks on Aitutaki divine.
I would do it again if so inclined.
I made some splendid friends both traveler and local.
Had many sublimely wonderful treasured moments.
And best of all, I healed my chronic back problem!
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Sep - Nov
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Epinions.com ID:
stutch
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Reviews written: 9
Trusted by: 2 members
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