Bora Bora Pearl Beach Resort: An absolute gem!
Written: Nov 20 '00
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Product Rating:
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Pros: private launch to hotel; new spacious rooms; spectacular views and excellent dive shop
Cons: we had to leave eventually
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| kboo's Full Review: Bora Bora |
Review Topic: Accommodations
OVERVIEW
I recently returned from a wondrous trip to French Polynesia, and this is the first of a series of reviews about traveling in French Polynesia. We visited four islands in French Polynesia, and spent several days in Bora Bora at the Pearl Beach Resort. Although nearly all of the resorts in French Polynesia are secluded, relatively small, quite luxurious, and cater to couples, my husband and I thought that the Pearl Beach Resort was exceptionally romantic and beautiful.
To give you some kind of measure of how much we loved it here, consider this: the last three days of our stay, Bora Bora (the whole island) was having trouble with its fresh water supply. As a result, pretty severe water rationing was in effect on the whole island. Our hotel only had water available for two hours in the morning and two hours in the evening, just before dinner. We were always out diving in the morning, so we only had water two hours in the evening. The rest of the time, there was no water from the sink, shower, tub, toilet, nada, not a drop. Even so, I almost cried as we were leaving for the airport.
I admit it– I'm a Virgo and that makes me fastidious. That means I like to shower. A lot. Scuba diving? Must have shower afterwards. Snorkeling? Shower. Get a little sweaty? Shower. Swim in the pool? Shower. So how could I have fallen in love with this place even though I couldn't shower much? Read on.
GETTING THERE
Bora Bora consists of a central, mountainous main island, surrounded by a necklace of smaller islands (some of them so small you could almost call them sandbars). Between the "necklace" and the main island is the lagoon. The Bora Bora Pearl Beach is situated on its own private motu (island) facing the main, central island. Vaitape, the main town, is on the central island. The Bora Bora airport has one runway, which was used by the Americans during WWII. (Yes, it's been upgraded since then.)
The airport is also located on its own separate motu, so any access from the airport to any other resort is by boat. The airline, Air Tahiti Nui, runs a comfortable, well-appointed shuttle between the airport and Vaitape, and if you are staying on the main island, you would transfer at Vaitape to a bus to get to your hotel. Not so with Bora Bora Pearl Beach.
After we landed, we were greeted with the requisite fragrant lei of tiare flowers. We went to the "baggage claim" area (two shelves where bags are piled) and began to pick up our bags. The greeters from our resort shooed us away, and took our bags onto the hotel's private launch. Within 5 minutes after landing, we were on our way to the resort, skimming quickly over beautiful turquoise waters of the lagoon, while everyone else from our flight was still sorting through their bags and jockeying for seats on the shuttle to Vaitape.
The boat was comfortable and looked brand new, and we got an eyeful of the island and its surrounding motus. After about 10 minutes on the boat (don't worry– the water is very calm in the lagoon; there is no danger of seasickness!) we arrived at the resort. Our first glance at the resort seemed almost like a scene from Myst: a row of thatch-roofed bungalows on stilts, extending over the lagoon, which shimmered in three different shades of blue. A light breeze caressed us as we stepped onto the dock, with teak chairs and a high arched roof.
ROOMS
We were led to the reception desk, which was a high-ceilinged area with bamboo furniture. There are no walls or doors to the reception area, which is floored which a light, slate-like stone. The thatch roof is held up by huge log-like pillars. If it is too breezy, or the sun is too bright, they might lower a gauzy, translucent cloth to filter the sun and breeze.
We rested in the reception area, sipping some tropical fruit drinks, as our bags were being brought to our room. The hotel staff gave us a brief orientation about the resort and the available activities, and after a short wait, we were taken to our rooms.
There are four levels of "rooms": garden, beach, overwater, and premium overwater. Every "room" is its own bungalow, so you never have to share a wall with anyone. The layout of the individual rooms, and of the whole resort, maximize the guests' sense of seclusion. All of the rooms have some unique feature about them, so that you are made to feel special no matter where you stay.
The garden bungalows, scattered in a sandy grove of coconut palms, have a walled private "yard" and a unique indoor/outdoor bathroom, and private plunge pools. Don't worry- the walls are made of bamboo so tightly lashed that there is no way to peek into the "yards"- we tried. The only drawbacks to the garden bungalows are that there are more mosquitos and it can get pretty hot there during the day– the breeze comes off the lagoon, and is faint-to-undetectable once you're in the grove of palm trees. To compensate, the garden bungalows have air conditioning. But it's a little difficult to pretend you're a castaway on a desert island when you have icy A/C.
The beach bungalows are located right on the coral sand beach, with hammocks and lounge chairs within easy reach. They are centrally located, with views of the overwater bungalows and Bora Bora's main island, and easy access to the activities hut and the pool. The main drawback to the beach bungalows is that there is less of a sense of privacy: although there is virtually no through traffic, you can see the decks of the beach bungalows as you walk to and from meals- no nude sunbathing or other hanky-panky on these decks!
The overwater bungalows are a mixed bag. The ones that are close to the beach have the benefit of being pretty close to everything. The problem is that then you have a lot of traffic past your door, from everyone else who is staying farther out over the lagoon. (Not that this is too much of a problem, as the resort has relatively few rooms and the bungalows are well spaced- "a lot of traffic" means that you might hear one couple walk by your room, and they might hear you moving about in your bungalow.)
The premium overwater bungalows are worth the added cost. They feature unobstructed views of the main island of Bora Bora, with a constant cooling breeze from the lagoon. The bilevel decks feature a seating area, lounge chairs, and a fresh water outdoor shower. They are so private that you are pretty much clothing optional. The water is about chest-deep here, and crystal clear. There is nothing like falling asleep to the gentle lapping of waves under your bungalow.
Our bathroom had a separate shower and tub, and was open to the rest of the room with sliding wooden panels. Along the tub and sink were clear plexiglass panels so you could see the critters swimming along under the bungalow. In the evenings, you can turn on the lights under the bungalow, and the bathroom and room glow turquoise from below.
In addition to the king-size bed, which each night was decorated with fresh flowers and a little card telling another legend of the islands, there is a couch that doubles as an additional bed, a minibar, and a small television that shows French-language shows on two channels throughout the day. There is also a movie channel operated by the hotel, where you can make requests for various movies. Not surprisingly, the hotel's movie library consists mainly of romantic classics (like Casablanca) and current blockbusters, with a few children's movies mixed in. (For some reason we kept seeing Tarzan in French.)
PUBLIC AREAS and AMENITIES
Food
There is one main restaurant, "Tevairoa," for breakfast and dinner, and a more casual bar/restaurant, "Teavanui," by the pool for lunch and snacks (like burgers and fries) during the day. Teavanui closes around sunset, and Taurearea bar is open in the evenings. Because we were on a "demi-pension" plan that included breakfast and dinner, we did not eat at Teavanui. All of the buildings are thatch-roofed, with thick wood posts supporting them, and flowers decorating every available flat surface.
Teavanui is the prime gathering spot around sunset. It overlooks the boat dock and the overwater bungalows and has a lovely view of the main island of Bora Bora. Tropical drinks abound, and between 5pm and 6pm they are 2-for-1. Most nights there is live local music. One night we were given bracelets woven from fragrant tiare flowers, reeds, and leaves. If you choose to sit at the edge of the "room" (like the rest of the public areas, there are no walls), be sure to apply insect repellent.
Tevairoa is located on the second level of the main building overlooking the pool and is divided into three parts. The central section is open to the main terrace, which steps down to the pool area in a series of landscaped patios. The other two sections have windows and walls made of reeds and bamboo. It can get a bit stuffy in these rooms, because the air does not circulate as well, but on the other hand, you are relatively protected from insect bites. Three nights a week, the hotel has live entertainment, with local music and dancing. If you sit in the central section of the restaurant, you will have the best view, but you are also most likely to be chosen for a dance.
Twice a week, Tevairoa has a buffet dinner, with local specialties and grilled meats and fish. There is the ever-present Tahitian fish salad, which is delicious, with chunks of fresh tuna marinated in coconut milk and lime juice. Another local delicacy is grilled langouste, which is like a small spiny lobster. Its texture is a bit drier than Maine lobster, and I didn't see much need to try it more than once. However...
The rest of the week, Tevairoa is a full-service restaurant. There is a daily-changing menu especially for guests on the meal plans; however, the rest of the extensive menu is available to meal plan guests for a nominal surcharge (ranging from $0 to $7 for the whole meal, depending on what's ordered). Even though the emphasis is on grilled fish, the heartier menu items are worth a try as well. I had a rich and wonderful sliced duck breast with mango slices, sort of a French Polynesian take on duck a l'orange, with baby greens and a fresh vinaigrette. Desserts were also wonderfully decadent. The chocolate items were so very French (rich, sinfully dark chocolate mousse, custardy creme brulee), but the Polynesian desserts are especially worth trying, especially the grilled pineapple (a barely charred, juicy, vanilla-glazed half-pineapple) and the coconut sampler: coconut sorbet piled in a chocolate "coconut shell," topped with coconut-scented whipped cream, and a coconut creme brulee. This is what the desserts at Tao should have been.
Breakfast is a full American breakfast every day, complete with eggs, omelettes, bacon and sausage, tropical fruit, yogurt, and far too many French pastries, cheese and yogurt. Not surprisingly, given the French influence, the coffee and hot chocolate are excellent, as are the homemade preserves and jams, which include pineapple, mango, papaya, and passion fruit. Seating at breakfast is first-come, first-served; you can reserve dinner seats if you want a specific table; the rest of the seats are first-come, first-served as well.
Activities
Between meals and when you need a break from sunbathing, it is important to get a little bit of exercise, too. The Pearl Beach has the requisite beach shack (complete with "beach boy," although he was missing much if the time) where you can borrow or rent outrigger canoes, kayaks, water "bicycles" (these looked some strange object used in a Cirque du Soleil performance), pedal boats, and snorkeling gear. The resort also has a large, free-form fresh water swimming pool (the largest on Bora Bora, they say). We spent a lot of time in this pool once the water shortage began.
The activities desk can make arrangements for vehicle rentals, excursions on the island, and dinner on the main island (which gets expensive because taxis cost around $20 U.S. if the restaurant doesn't offer free pick-up).
Most importantly, the Pearl Beach has a superb dive shop, Bora Blue Nui right next door. The boat and equipment are brand new, and you're never diving in a group larger than 5 people. A single tank dive costs 6000 CFP, with a discount if you do 5 or more dives. The guys are really laid back (though who on the island isn't??) - one day after we were finished with our dives, we rode around the island to watch the finish of the inter-island canoe race (the race began in Tahiti, which was a 30 minute flight away). The divemasters, Gilles, Thierry and Ludovic were all fluent in English, friendly and knowledgable. If you are not staying at the Pearl Beach, they will pick up at other resorts as well.
SERVICE
I've read mixed reviews of service in French Polynesia. I think some of this has to do with the French influence, and the really, really laid back Polynesian mindset. Although almost everyone in the tourist industry speaks English, you will still get better results if you try a little French, even if it's just a "Bonjour" to greet the staff. That being said, even if you communicate primarily in English, you will still get excellent service. Just remember that it's not Hawaii, and not the U.S. Service in restaurants is slow by American standards, which for me means I didn't feel like I was rushed through dinner. Just remember, there's nothing much to do after dinner anyway, so what's the hurry?
A note on "reserving" tables for dinner: If you have a preference for a certain table for dinner, simply speak to the staff earlier in the day. You don't reserve for a specific time, but you do reserve a specific table; they hold the table for you all night long. Of course, that goes without saying that if you decide to have dinner elsewhere you should tell the staff as soon as your plans change.
During our water shortage, the hotel staff kept us apprised of the problem every day, and also delivered bottled water to our bungalows. Even during this time, I noticed no change in the quality of the housekeeping services.
One other funny instance happened on our last evening on Bora Bora. Our travel agent had noted that we were "honeymooners" so that we'd get more freebies; at other resorts this usually included T-shirts and a bottle of champagne. At the Pearl Beach, we ended up with a special dinner. (Um, yeah, we're celebrating our 6-1/2th anniversary!) Our first indication that something was up was when one of the housekeeping staff came by in the afternoon to ask if we were having dinner in our room that night. Puzzled, we answered no, and then she smiled, nodded, and disappeared, looking like she had some bizarre plan in store for us. When we arrived at dinner that night, we were shown to a special table out on the terrace right in front of the band. (Luckily, there was no dancing that night.) Our table was decorated with a traditional Polynesian quilt as tablecloth, and strewn with hibiscus and tiare flowers. They then served us a multiple course special dinner (which- unfortunately- involved yet more langoustes; I say "unfortunately" only because there were so many other things on the menu I wanted to try) with a bottle of champagne and more tropical drinks. To this day, I have no idea how or why we got the extra-special dinner; most of the guests at the resort were true honeymooners who did not get this special dinner, and our travel agent hasn't owned up to it, either. What struck me, however, was the genuine pleasure the staff seemed to take in surprising us. The smiles were worth more than all the langoustes we could eat.
TIPS, RECOMMENDATIONS AND FAQS
1. More so than any other resort we visited in French Polynesia, this one is worth the upgrade to a premium overwater bungalow. Although all of the bungalows are delightful, you get the ultimate in privacy, better visiting sea life, and spectacular unobstructed views of the main island of Bora Bora.
2. If you have an overwater bungalow, it is worth waking up early one morning to see the sun rise over the jagged peaks on the main island. (You can always go back to sleep!)
3. You will save money by purchasing a meal plan rather than ordering a la carte; however, wait to purchase your meal plan until you arrive at the hotel. Travel agents in the U.S. charge for the meal plan at an exchange rate of 100 CFP = $1.00 (US). If you buy the meal plan at the hotel and charge your incidentals by credit card, you will get the real exchange rate, which in fall 2000 was around 130 CFP = $1.00 (U.S.) Easy way to save 30% on meals.
4. At breakfast, "reserve" your table for dinner.
5. Even if you don't stay in one of the overwater bungalows, take a walk along the suspended, wood-planked walkways in the evening. It feels like being in Myst. Our walks to and from dinner became a game of "who can spot the coolest fish." We saw two sting rays swim under our coffee table, and one evening followed an octopus as it glided along from post to post. If you bring some tuna sashimi from dinner, you will become very popular with the fishes.
6. We were initially supposed to stay at the Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal, but it was full and so we ended up at the Pearl Beach instead. Had we stayed on the main island, we would not have had views of the mountain and lagoon. Our view of the Parkroyal from our dive boats made us glad that we stayed at the Pearl Beach-- the bungalows looked older and the views were not nearly as good.
http://www.pearlbeachresorts.com
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
kboo
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Location: New York, NY
Reviews written: 130
Trusted by: 283 members
About Me:
De-fezzed in two topics. Ask me if I care. Hey, what happened to my picture?
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