This review is an attempt to put into words the intricate peculiarities of the island of Saipan. This speck of land dropped a third of the way between the Philippines and Hawaii is rarely visible on a globe and even most maps. But Saipan truly is America's best kept secret. Here we will uncover the clandestine treasures of this tiny wonderland.

Chapter 1: Trains, Planes and Automobiles
Transportation on Saipan can be confusing. Most of the islanders insist on driving wherever they go, even if their destination is only a few blocks away. Because of this, the roads are usually busy. If you choose to drive, beware of pedestrians crossing anywhere they choose. This is especially true on Sundays, when the factory workers are out.
Saipan is a very small island, and most of the places you need to go are within walking distance. However, there are very few sidewalks, so walk with caution on the side of the street or take the beach.
Buses are available to most villages. They can be boarded at most hotels. Different buses stop at different sites, so ask the driver before getting on. The shopping bus stops at most major stores and hotels. The cost is $3.00 per day. However, the DFS buses are free to hotel patrons. Simply board this bus and take it to the DFS Galleria and from there board it to take you to any hotel. Lie. Cheat the system. It's ok. We got this tip from a bus driver.
Mopeds can be rented for the day in Garapan. We have yet to try these, but they look like a lot of fun.
We don't recommend taking the taxis unless they guarantee that they will be free (This is sometimes the case from certain hotels to DFS.) Otherwise, taxis can be very expensive.

Chapter 2: Eating Your Way through Saipan
Saipan offers a variety of culinary delights from many countries. One might say Saipan is the world's food court.

Hamilton's
If you are craving American food, Hamilton's is the restaurant for you. Drive up Navy Hill and follow the signs to get to Hamilton's Bar and Grill. Don't be fooled by the dive shop out front. Drive down the narrow driveway to your right to get back to the restaurant. Hamilton's offers decent hamburgers and steaks and excellent desserts.
Helpful tips: If you can, go with someone who has been there. Otherwise be bold in your pursuit; it truly is just around the corner.
$$$: $10-15

Korean BBQ
Located in downtown Garapan, the Korean BBQ offers its guests not only authentic Korean food but a unique glimpse into Korean culture. Ask the management for a table in a side room, kick off your shoes and get comfortable on the brightly colored cushions. Order a platter of meat and cook your own meal right at the table.
Helpful tips: Make sure the vents are working in your room or you will soon be breathing in smoke. Also, don't turn your fire up too high or down too low. It might just turn off. Not to worry, if this happens simply push the call button for your waiter's assistance.
$$$: $10 per person

Coffee Care
Despite its unusual name, this bistro is perfectly situated on Capitol Hill with a breathtaking view of the Philippine Sea and the island of Managaha. The wide windows face the west and the sunsets are spectacular. The coffee is decent but the food is delicious. The menu ranges from salads to sandwiches, pasta to Asian cuisine.
Helpful tips: Be sure to take a look out of the telescope located near the front entrance. There is a good view of the naval ships as well as sunbathers on Managaha. Make use of the butcher paper tablecloths and the cup of crayons!!
$$$: $10 per person

Oleai
Oleai Bar and Grill offers a great deal on Mexican cuisine Friday through Sunday. From 11:00am-11:00pm they serve tacos for a dollar a piece and other Tex-Mex meals after 6:00pm on Saturdays. They also serve various American and Asian dishes, but we visit Oleai mainly for its Mexican food. On Friday and Saturday nights enjoy live music by Dan and Kevin.
Helpful tips: Bring your camera and eat your meal outside on the terrace. Outrigger clubs will often practice on these waters and silhouette beautiful sunset pictures. Oleai is located right on the beach, so get up and walk down onto the white sand or dip your feet in the ocean while you wait for your meal to be prepared. When ordering water, it may taste a little funny. It is probably barley tea.
$$$: $5 with drink, depending on how many tacos you can eat

Fast Food Restaurants
McDonald's: There are two McDonald's on island, one on Middle Road and another in a gas station in Garapan. We recommend the Middle Road McDonald's as the gas station version tends to be quite a bit more expensive and, quite frankly, is in a gas station. Try the breakfast of spam, rice, and eggs.
KFC: Located on beach road in the Townhouse strip mall.
Subway: There are three Subway restaurants on island. The newest is downtown Garapan.
Jolibees: We don't recommend Jolibees if only for the fact that it has a creepy mascot.

Other Restaurants:
Thai House: Excellent spring rolls. For more authentic Thai food, check out Thai Noodles.
Taste of India: Order a chai and watch the waiter pour your drink from 4 feet above the cup.
Shark Fin: Good Chinese buffet.
Big Dipper: This hole-in-the-wall ice-cream shop doesn't offer as many flavors as Baskin Robbins, but makes up for it in character. Check out the seasonal decorations and educational placemats.

Chapter 3: Diamonds in the Rough: Shopping in Saipan
Shopping in Saipan is a cultural experience in itself. It becomes an art of finding the best product at the best price. Shoppers must be persistent and patient. The best deals are usually found at small family-run shops, but be prepared to visit several different stores before purchasing. Below is a list of shops worth visiting.

_ Discount
Strange name, great treasures. Wander through the narrow aisles and take in an assortment of items. But beware; the inexpensive prices generally reflect the quality of the items. Make a point to stop at the stationary stand and read some poorly translated letterheads. Poke through the sale table for debatably better deals. Before you leave make sure you inform the cashier that Carmen says hi.
Good buys: We frequent this store for our plastic needs. Stationary is always fun and dishes can sometimes carry entertaining messages (e.g. They took an immediate fancy to each other.)

Made in Saipan
Everything in this store was made right here on island. It sells good tourist gifts and souvenirs. Paintings done by local artists are also sold here.

Monika's Gallery
The smell of sandalwood hits you before you even walk in the door. Monika, the store's German owner, specializes in Balinese products. The store is tastefully decorated if expensive. Everyone should take time to visit this store even if they don't intend to purchase anything.

Thai Fashion
This out-of-the-way jewel was discovered late at night through the assistance of its enthusiastic owner who reopened the store after hours just for us. The owners visit Thailand once a month to pick up the latest in clothes, shoes and jewelry. The prices are low and the clothes exotic.

X Colors
Located on Beach Road directly across from the DFS Galleria, this store is easily recognizable by the life size astronaut in the front. A Saipan version of Spencer's Gifts, this store offers great Balinese and Saipan gifts as well as items of a questionable nature. Steer clear of the back half of the store.

East Meets West
Offering pottery and dress tailoring, this store is located two doors down from Coffee Care on Capital Hill. The Japanese pottery is beautiful. Be sure to explore the covered boxes, as they may hold new and different treasures from those displayed. And, hey, go ahead and get your pants altered while you shop.

$3 Store
Although we are not certain as to this store's actual name, it is a great spot to pick up name-brand clothing at dirt cheap prices. The shop buys its clothes directly from the factories and sells it wholesale. Most items are under $5.00 and name brands include Abercrombie & Fitch, Ralph Lauren, and Express. They also sell hats, jewelry, and sunglasses. It is located on Beach Road across from the factories.

Meena's
For the best price on sarongs, visit Meena's on Sundays. They set up a tent in the parking lot. Every item in the tent is $3.00.

DFS Galleria
This is a duty-free shopping center that caters to wealthy Japanese tourists. Most of the items are outrageously priced, though some good deals can be found in the section directly beneath Hard Rock Cafe.

The Daily Grind
For everyday needs, the only store you need is Ace Hardware. Everything from furniture to Christmas trees (sometimes pre-named) can be found here. For books and magazines, Bestseller Books has a good selection and is the only bookstore on the island. Metitsu Mart is the best grocery store for fresh products and good prices. It also carries a wide variety of American products found nearly nowhere else. Dolphin Wholesale is the Saipan equivalent of Walmart. The products are in no particular order, but with the help of a worker you should be able to find what you need for a good price. Finally, Ebisuya has the best bread on island. The cinnamon bread is addictive. They also carry interesting Asian snacks and prepackaged sandwiches and meals.

Chapter 4: Never a Dull Moment: Entertainment in Saipan

Dancing
Latin and ballroom dancing can be found at Coyotes on Friday nights, Sunset Bar and Grill on Saturdays, and GIG on Sundays. Coyotes is a small karaoke bar-turned-dance floor on Beach Road frequented primarily by dance students and instructors. If you dance with an instructor, be prepared to tip him $2 for the service.
Sunset Bar and Grill is an open air stage and dance floor that features a small band who take you back to the musical trends of the 1980s. Find a seat at a table on the sand, order a drink, and watch the band members give quick dance lessons to the tourists. Or join in the fun yourself, if you are feeling brave. There is a small children's playground near the ocean. We have no explanation for this.
GIG is located in a Vegas-style pyramid with a giant screen. There is an outdoor bar, but your ticket will buy you entrance and one beverage, so wait until you are inside to order a drink. The music is generally Latin or ballroom mixed with modern disco. Feel free to make requests. As with Coyotes, any dances with instructors should be paid for.
Most nights, dance clubs get busy around nine o'clock and are usually open until two o'clock.

Market Day
Each Thursday night, Garapan comes alive with the sound of Chamorro music and the smell of Asian foods. Restaurants and stores from around the island set up booths down Garapan's main street to hawk their wares and promote their business. Stores that line the market open their doors as well. Live entertainment in the center of the market includes Polynesian music and dancing.
Warning: Prostitution is legal on Saipan, and the groups of young girls crowded on the street corners are not Girl Scouts.

Snorkeling
The clear warm water around Saipan makes for great snorkeling and diving. Pau Pau Beach has great coral and brightly colored starfish can usually be found. However, it is a prime target of thieves so lock everything of value in your trunk and don't plan to be gone too long. If possible, go in shifts so that someone is watching your car and valuables at all times.
Managaha also provides great snorkeling. The current is usually a bit stronger, but the fish are exquisite and unafraid to swim in close proximity to you. Snorkeling equipment can be rented on Managaha.
For a brush with history, snorkel out to the submerged tanks near Invasion Beach. The water is not as clear, but the tanks looming out of the water as you get near are an impressive sight. There are also airplane wreckage and other war artifacts to be found underwater along this stretch of the coast.

Elvis
The King lives and he resides right here on Saipan in the form of a small Philipino impersonator. Stop in at Hard Rock Cafe any night of the week to hear the musical stylings of this small but energetic Asian version of Elvis Presley.

Movies
Movies come early to Saipan, if only by 16 hours. The only theater on island is located on Cross-Island Road. Matinees are $4.50 and evening shows are $6.00. The theater usually shows movies on their release date. The box office opens at 3:45 with shows beginning at 4:00. Order nachos and a drink and enjoy a movie on the big screen.
We recommend renting videos at Blockbuster Video, located in the Townhouse strip mall. Other movie rental shops may not be as legitimate.

Hotels
Most hotels on Saipan offer shows to their guests and visitors. We have never gone and have no professional opinions on these. We're sure they're great.

Beaches
If a sun tan is your goal, the best beach for lying out is Managaha. You will have the sand to yourself as most of the Asian tourists will be under the trees covered in towels.
Swimming is good nearly everywhere, but beware of the plant life on the bottom. It is best to wear water shoes when playing in the ocean.
For a good view of the island and taste of the culture, take a walk down the beach. Sink your toes into the white sand and watch the fisherman at their trade. Listen to the children splashing in the ocean and smell the fresh-caught fish roasting on open fires.
A short walking path begins at Oleai Beach but ends as abruptly as it begins a short while later. We suggest skipping the pavement and sticking to the sand. Because there are very few sidewalks anywhere on island, it is usually easier, as well as more scenic, to walk down the beach to your destination. However, after dark the lack of any good lighting discourages this.

Sports
For water sports such as skiing and wakeboarding, Big Boyz Marine is located at the back of the World Resort, easily recognizable by the bright pink equipment. For the more adventurous, there is parasailing, kite surfing and wind surfing offered at Managaha. If you are an avid surfer, you are out of luck. The waves are only big enough to accommodate kite and wind surfing.

Chapter 5: A Kodak Moment: Sites of Saipan

Suicide and Banzai Cliffs
Saipan is littered with the after-affects of WW2 and scarred with the toll that the bloody Battle of Saipan took on the island. Memorials scatter the island and evidence is everywhere of a hard fought and bitterly lost struggle.
Two of the most tragic of these places are Suicide Cliff and Banzai Cliff. The natural beauty of these cliffs is marred by their unspeakable past. After the battle was over and the American army had defeated the Japanese, those Japanese civilians and soldiers who remained found themselves facing the choice between surrender and death. Disillusioned by their superiors and terrified of what the Americans would do to them, they chose suicide. Families lined up to say goodbye and then throw themselves off of the cliffs to certain death. Mothers killed their children and men their wives before jumping off themselves. Memorials stand at both of these sites to commemorate this horrific event and remind future generations of the price paid.

Grotto
The Grotto is an eighty-foot deep pool of water that attracts divers as well as tourists interested in taking a dip. It is connected to the ocean via an underwater tunnel, so the current is strong in certain places and there are risks to swimming here. There is a lookout over the Grotto but in order to get down to the water you must descend down an extensive flight of stone steps. Watch your step! It can be very slippery with the salt spray.
The islanders refuse to swim here based on the superstition that disturbing the silence of the place will bring curses down on you and your family. However, for visitors who do not adhere to these beliefs, the water is amazingly clear and a great spot for snorkeling, diving or just cooling off.

Bird Island
Bird Island is located just off the east coast of Saipan. It is best viewed from the lookout. Despite its promising name, we have yet to see an actual bird there. During low tide it is connected to Saipan by a small strip of land. During high tide this land bridge disappears beneath 2-3 feet of water.

Tapitchou
Mount Tapitchou is the highest point on the island as well as the tallest mountain in the world. Because Saipan is located on the Marianas Trench, the mountain stands nearly seven miles tall from bottom to top. The road leading up to the top is hazardous at best. A gravel road marked with deep potholes, it is best driven in a four-wheel drive vehicle by someone who knows it. Newcomers should simply take it slow. Making it to the very top rewards you with a view of Jesus with arms outstretched.
The very top offers the best view of the lay of the land and a sense of the size of Saipan. Tinian, the island directly to the south of Saipan, can usually be viewed in its entirety. Looking toward the west allows you to see the line of the reef along the coast.

Managaha
Managaha is a small atoll just off the west coast of Saipan. It can be reached by ferry, though some choose to swim there. We don't recommend it as there are sharks and sting rays. To get tickets to the ferry, go to the travel agency outside of the Hyatt Hotel. You should be at the dock at least half an hour before your ferry leaves. Seriously.
At first sight, Managaha resembles Gilligan's Island. After landing, this sense soon dissipates with the swarms of Japanese tourists hiding in the shade of the palm trees. The island offers snorkeling equipment rentals as well as kite surfing, wind surfing, and parasailing. If you lay out on the beach, be prepared to be openly gawked at. Bring sunscreen if you do not wish to burn.

Saipanda
Saipan has developed a mascot that is a cross between a panda bear with no eyes and a yellow rhinoceros. It can be creepy, but many adore him. Most Saipanda paraphernalia can be found in DFS Galleria. Take a picture with a stuffed man with a Saipanda head in the center of the display. If you dare. For a special treat, keep your eyes open for the Saipanda bus. We are not sure where it originates, but it is hard to miss with its giant yellow horn.

Spas and Resorts
For an inexpensive price you can buy a day of rest and relaxation at the Mandi Asian Spa. The spa includes a library, flower bath, swimming pool, hot tub, saunas, and a small cafe. Massages are available with reservations. Bring a book, sunscreen, and a water bottle.

Chapter 6: Tidbits from a Local

Cultural Notes
If you speak English, you're in luck. Most of the people on the island do as well, some better than others. The island is populated by Pacific Islanders (Chamorro, Carolinian, Chuukese, Palauan), Asians (Korean, Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Thai), and "Howlies" or pale-skinned people (American, Canadian, Australian, New Zealander). It is traditional for most Asian groups to bow in greeting. The islanders raise their chin and eyebrows. "Hafa Adai!" is the traditional Chamorro greeting. It is approximately equivalent to the Hawaiian "Aloha!"

Idiosyncrasies
On Sundays, wander down into the garment factory district of Susupe to watch the Chinese garment workers riding their bicycles while holding umbrellas. Others shield themselves from the sun using pieces of cardboard.
The fashion on Saipan seems to be "Wear what falls out of your closet." There is no pressure to appear or dress a certain way, although ethnic groups can sometimes be identified by their styles.
If you are light-skinned and especially if you have blonde hair, expect a certain amount of stares, whistles, and honking. Because there are few Caucasians on island, it is common for howlies to smile and greet each other because, hey, we have the same skin color.

Our Feathered, Furry and Four-Footed Friends
Geckos run wild all over. Most are the size of your little fingers, though some are smaller or slightly bigger. They are harmless and eat all kinds of bugs. They are also smart and afraid of humans, so there is no need to worry about geckos crawling on you or attacking you.
Shrews, however, must sometimes be scared off with violent movements of your feet or arms. This cross between a mole and a mouse is, quite frankly, disgusting. They are the ones making the high-pitched squeaking in the bushes. They come out mainly after dark.
The toads on island are numerous and of low intelligence. They are about the size of a softball, but when they see you coming they hope against hope that you will not see them. Then, at the very last second when it becomes obvious that you do indeed see them and are going to attempt to walk around them, they jump sporadically at your legs in wild attempts to get away. The best way to deal with toads is to make lots of noise when approaching thus tipping them off that you are aware of their existence.
Boonie dogs are the descendents of the dogs left by soldiers during the war. They are generally inbred dogs of the larger breeds. They roam the island eating garbage and small children. No, just kidding. They are usually harmless and afraid of humans. "Once, I had a dog." There are also a few boonie cats.
There are no snakes on the island, so it is safe to hike almost everywhere.


Recommended: Yes

Best Suited For: Singles
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime