Skates on the Bay: Overrated restaurant at Berkeley Marina
Written: Dec 02 '00 (Updated Dec 10 '00)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Beautiful view, great sampler platter
Cons: Overpriced, Average service, Average ambiance
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| smiles33's Full Review: Berkeley |
Waterfront dining. Huge, 10’x12’ glass panels peering out onto a view of the City (e.g. San Francisco) framed by the twinkling lights of the Bay Bridge (whose lighting was designed by my fiance’s great-grandfather!). But one can’t eat a beautiful scene, and the food at this restaurant on the Berkeley side of the bay, Skates on the Bay, doesn’t justify the prices.
My fiance, brace33, bid for and won (at face value) a $75 gift certificate to Skates at a charity auction sponsored by my law school’s public interest law student organization. So tonight, we decided to use it to celebrate our upcoming 2 year anniversary (which falls right before finals!).
We’ve both eaten here before, which is why he was willing to bid on the certificate, but by the end of dinner, we knew that we wouldn’t be returning anytime soon. That’s not to say that the food is bad. I’d say mediocre and uninspired (except for the calamari appetizer), considering my expectations of fine dining. If the prices had been lower, I may have been more satisfied. But for the prices listed, I expected something with more finesse/elegance/edge (where details are attended to!)
The sunset beats any other decoration
Skates is set off from the shore and perched right on the water. After crossing a small bridge, one enters a tiny waiting area with only a few seats. Yet immediately, one’s eye is drawn towards the “walls” of windows.
The aforementioned window panels offer an expansive view of the bay. We had reservations for a 5 p.m. dinner so we could catch the sunset. While it was a cloudy day, we were still treated to a rosy sunset that was just gorgeous. After nightfall, twinkling Christmas tree lights bordered each window panel, and the lights of the City distract one from the interior.
As for the décor, I found myself neither impressed nor shocked—-it is fairly standard for a 3.5 star restaurant (not quite 4 stars but trying to rise above the 3 star ones). It’s understated, a little cozy, but not cheap-looking or reminiscent of any chain restaurant.
If you want to enjoy the view, take advantage of the spacious bar area and get some drinks instead of dining here. The restaurant’s décor and ambiance aren’t even as chic and sumptuous as Ana Mandara (the Vietnamese restaurant in the City that, unfortunately, I dined at before I read Tanster’s review!), so I’d still suggest that restaurant for drinks unless you’re specifically looking for a view of the City from another part of the bay.
You are reading an epinion by smiles33. If this appears under someone else's name, it has been plagiarized! Please report it to Epinions and email me to let me know: smilesesq@yahoo.com. Thanks.
Service like a chain restaurant
There appeared to be a number of service staff, yet we still found ourselves waiting to catch our waiter’s attention. Perhaps he was assigned to cover too many tables, or maybe there was some other explanation, but we didn’t feel like the service was any higher than that of a middle-brow chain restaurant. While some may not place too high a priority on service, I like to be served graciously and promptly when I’m shelling out a large amount of money. If I were paying Olive Garden prices, then I wouldn’t complain but hey, a dinner for 2 that rings up a bill of over $100 (before tip) should demand a higher level of service.
Drinks, appetizers, and entrees—but no dessert
I started off with a “Beri kaze” (a kamikaze with raspberry-infused Stoli vodka) for $5.75, and I really enjoyed this sweet cocktail that completely masked the taste of alcohol. Of course, when I sipped some of my fiance’s “Millenium martini” (a special “mystery” martini for $6.25), I winced at the bitterness but he really enjoyed it.
Brace33 also tried a pint of Skates’ own Amber Lager ($3.95) which he found a little lighter than Sierra Nevada or Red Hook. It came in a tall, slim beer stein, which was quite cute and unusual.
We were served a few pieces of the house “Fresh-Baked Focaccia.” Right past the entrance, there is a large oven area where focaccia is baked. This description is straight from the website:
Olive oil flat pan bread from Genoa. Skates' recipe is inspired from an old Borracchini family tradition, passed down through the generations. Focaccia is simplicity itself—fresh rosemary and sage of the countryside with golden oil and garlic flavoring its surface. Baked fresh daily in our deck ovens until golden brown.
We each only had one piece of this as we decided to splurge on appetizers and ordered both the Sizzling Crab cakes with Sweet-and-Sour Beurre Blanc ($10.95) and the Sampler Platter ($16.95).
The crab cakes are described as “sweet peppers, garlic, Dungeness and rock crab cakes lightly sauteed and served over a sweet-and-sour beurre blanc with daikon sprouts and sweet ginger.” While I enjoyed the tanginess of the sweet ginger, I was disappointed to find only two small 3" cakes.
The Sampler Platter was a better deal, though still a bit expensive. It included the Dungeness Crab and Artichoke Dip with Fresh-Baked Focaccia (“A rich blend of Dungeness crab, artichoke hearts, sliced sweet onions, mayonnaise, and Parmesan oven-roasted and served with Skates' signature fresh-baked focaccia bread”), Chicken Curry Satay w/Spicy Thai Peanut Sauce (“Apple hardwood-grilled chicken skewers marinated with curry, red chili peppers, and lemon grass with crisp shredded iceberg lettuce and spicy peanut sauce”), and "Fiesta" Calamari (“Tender calamari rings are lightly fried, served over tri-colored tortilla strips, and garnished with a zippy Southwestern black bean salsa and chipotle mayonnaise”).
The chicken satay was dry and had a very disappointing flavor-—the spiciness was not strong or sharp enough. We both enjoyed the calamari very much, as it was a unique blend of ingredients after the addition of salsa and tortilla strips. The dip was delicious, though not as refined as I thought it would be. It reminded me of a simple cheesy home-made dip rather than a more sophisticated, "restaurant-style" dip.
As for entrees, we both went with meats even though this is supposedly a seafood restaurant. There are a number of daily fish specials as well as some pastas and chicken dishes. I was tempted by the salmon, but I just love rack of lamb and it’s far easier for me to make salmon at home than rack of lamb! Brace33 ended up choosing the combination Prime Rib and Prawns (“Our signature rock salt-roasted prime rib with split and roasted garlic prawns”).
My rosemary and herb-crusted rack of lamb was accompanied by steamed vegetables and garlic mashed potatoes. This wasn’t too bad at $21.95, but I still lovingly recall the delicious rack of lamb at Boulevard (an excellent SF restaurant) that was only a few dollars more (it’s a meal for two for about $50, so about $25 for one). The Skates’ entrée had less meaty cuts and didn’t have the same robust flavor. I’m now much more inclined to save up for the Boulevard meal than “waste” the money on far less satisfying substitutes.
Brace33’s entrée ($28.95 for the combo) was lackluster. The prime rib was the regular cut, 24 oz, and of average quality. It wasn’t piping hot (I immediately blanched after I took a bite and realized it was near room temperature), which immediately made me suspicious that it had sat around too long. There was fresh horseradish, but that couldn’t save the bland, somewhat dry prime rib. I like my prime rib to melt in my mouth in a sea of horseradish. The bite I had of brace33’s cut was a little too solid, even though he asked for medium rare. This cut pales in comparison to the prime rib at House of Prime Rib and especially the unbelievably delicious one served by this small restaurant in Oakland’s Chinatown, Café Bourdeaux (which offers its prime rib for $12!!!!). I’ll have to write another review on Café Bourdeaux as their prime rib is actually worth $25. By the way, the accompanying garlic prawns with lemon butter were delicious and somewhat compensated for the disappointing prime rib.
By this point, we were full and unwilling to try any desserts (and risk further disappointment!). But I did glance and noticed more reasonable prices for dessert, ranging from $4.50 to $6 or so. Desserts include “Burned Cream” (I don’t know why they didn’t just write crème brulee), homemade key lime pie, fruit sorbet, apple pie with caramel apples, pecan pie, and a triple chocolate cake.
Details, details, details
So by now you’ve figured this isn’t a four-star restaurant (though its prices are up there!). I had to confirm one last detail before leaving—the restroom. At the nicest restaurants, their restrooms continue the theme of the restaurant. Luxurious details like hand towels nicely folded in a basket, fresh flowers, innovative/high-end surfaces (marble or granite rather than plain tile), and excellent lighting all preserve the aura of a nice restaurant. Skates’ restroom only confirmed what I had learned by the end of the meal. This is the place you bring tourists or that high school students go to for special dates. Overpriced, yet boasting of a nice view, this restaurant is just a dressed-up Olive Garden or Marie Callandar’s.
While there was a live orchid plant by the sink, the place was painted and tiled in an ugly red/burgundy color. There was no full-length mirror or a vanity table either. And the overall feeling was one of smallness. I can’t remember if it had fluorescent lighting, but I wouldn’t be surprised. I bolted out when I was finished washing my hands rather than lingering to check on make-up, hair, etc. as one does in a well-appointed restroom.
Final advice?
Don’t bother having dinner here but feel free to bring out-of-town friends by for drinks. The view of the sunset is beautiful and the restaurant is located right next to a pier that one can walk on out towards the ocean. If you really want to linger over the view and have a meal, be prepared for a wait if you don’t have reservations. Tourists (and some locals, I presume) seem to like this place much more than me as it was quite crowded. Tables right by the windows are first-come, first-serve. We managed to get a table one row away as we didn’t want to wait an hour and a half. Otherwise, most tables have a nice view (except for large groups, who are seated near the entrance against the one “real” wall, too far away to get a good view of the ocean).
Skates on the Bay
100 Seawall Dr.
Berkeley, CA 94710
(510) 549-1900
Reservations recommended
http://skatesonthebay.citysearch.com/1.html
(note: website is outdated as prices incorrect and some entrees not on current menu)
Recommended:
No
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