Catalina Island - California's Capri? Not quite!
Written: Jan 02 '04 (Updated Jan 23 '04)
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Pros: Beautiful views, especially from the higher elevations.
Cons: Avalon could use a face lift! Mediocre shops and restaurants.
The Bottom Line: Avalon is not as charming and quaint as it could be. Keep your expectations low, and you'll be pleasantly surprised.
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| whalewatcher's Full Review: Catalina Island |
Many travel brochures love to compare Catalina Island to Italy's romantic Island of Capri. Unfortunately, those of us who have been to Capri couldn't agree less. Quite frankly, the difference between these two islands is like night and day. Catalina Island, whose architecture, history, vegetation, climate, and local flavor pale in comparison, really can't compete with Capri, nor should it have to.
The seaside resort of Santa Catalina Island is a popular vacation destination for West Coasters, a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the otherwise overcrowded and smog covered greater Los Angeles area.
Only 22 miles from L.A., Catalina's 76 square miles are surprisingly diverse and offer everything from small beaches, secluded coves, deep valleys, 2000-foot peaks, and near vertical cliffs. The small city of Avalon is nestled around the harbor and presents quite an idyllic setting with the tall mountains as backdrop. 54 miles of coastline surrounds this rugged island which was once owned by chewing gum magnate William Wrigley, Jr., who purchased it in 1915. Today, 85% is owned by the Santa Catalina Island Conservancy whose goal is to preserve the still undeveloped interior.
Probably the best and most economical way to access the island is by ferry (helicopter trips are also available). We took the Catalina Express which departs from San Pedro, Long Beach, and Dana Point. The 1:30 min. crossing on the fully stabilized, 150 passenger ferry is fun, especially if you are lucky enough to spot whales or dolphins on the way. Our trip was in October, a little early for whales, but we did encounter a playful school of dolphins. We departed from Dana Point's pretty harbor at 9:45 a.m., but found the dock very difficult to find. There is NO signage! We were told that the city does not allow signs (?), but noticed that other businesses somehow managed to ignore such a rule. The parking area (free of charge) is a good distance away from the dock, giving even more reason to arrive early. Round-trip cost for the ferry is $45 for adults ($41 Seniors), and $34.50 for children 2-11. There is a nominal charge for infants, strollers, bikes, surf boards, etc. The ferry has a lounge bar which serves cocktails, refreshments, and snacks.
The best known landmark on the island is the beautiful Casino Building which sits to the right of the harbor as you approach. Built by Wrigley in 1929 to the tune of 2 million dollars, it is not a casino at all, but sports a huge art-deco ballroom where famous bands, such as Count Basie, once entertained thousands of guests. Today, the Casino can be toured for a minimal admission fee. The elegant ballroom still exists, but the building now also houses the Catalina Island Museum and offers exhibits on natural history, archaeology, and island history. It's the best attraction on the island.
As soon as you get off the ferry, you find yourself on Crescent Avenue along the waterfront, which is lined with small shops and restaurants. If you are there for only one day, go straight to one of the tour company's booths, and sign up for one or two of their tours. Otherwise, there really is not enough in Avalon to keep you occupied for a whole day.
We signed up for the 2 hr. Skyline Drive Tour to the airport-in-the-sky, and for an Under Sea Tour in a semi-submersible. The Skyline Drive Tour is not for the faint of heart! The rather sizable bus winds its way uphill, along a very narrow road with numerous tight hairpin turns (some without guard rails!) while the driver doesn't miss a beat narrating. Along the way, there are some stunning views of Avalon and the ocean below, if you dare look. The California coast line lies far in the distance, barely visible through the thick, ugly layer of smog rising above it. Catalina's interior is rugged, with broad, deep valleys and tall mountains. A surprising amount of wildlife still exists here, such the island fox, wild boar, the bald eagle, and bisons which are descendants from those brought to the island years ago for a movie shoot, then left behind.
In October, the vegetation is brown and the soil dry and dusty. The better time to visit might be in the spring when it is more lush. Once we reached the airport-in-the sky at an elevation of 1620 feet, the midday sun was at its hottest and even this late in the year almost unbearable. The views are spectacular, but the airport itself is not used much any more. Regular scheduled flights have ceased and it is now mainly used for freight and private planes. The restaurant is still in business, thanks to the tour buses, and serves up a mean buffalo burger! There is also a gift shop and some interesting exhibits of the Nature Center. The tour costs $27.50 for adults ($24.75 Seniors), and $13.75 for children. I am still not sure if it was worth it!
The Under Sea Tour in the semi-submersible is a better choice. It's a slow ride out to the Lover's Cove Marine Preserve, the home of huge kelp forests which sway to the motion of the water. The rays of sunshine turn the kelp a deep amber, which is even more spectacular when combined with the abundant number of bright orange Giribaldi fish. You can also see urchins, calico bass, an occasional bat ray and, with luck, a seal performing his acrobatic swimming manoeuvres through the heavy kelp. All in all, it's a fun and educational trip. $31.75 adults ($28.50 Seniors), $16 for children.
The west end of the island and 'Two Harbors' is by many referred to as the 'best end'. It is considered even more unspoiled and ideal for kayaking, diving, snorkeling, and camping. To spend time here requires at least an overnight stay, and even though we did not venture to this part of the island, I have a feeling that it would appeal to me more than Avalon, which I found to be somewhat disappointing. The town definitely lacks character, and except for a hint of Victorian architecture along the waterfront, the rest of the small town leaves lots to be desired.
Cars are limited on the island and most residents have to wait 10 years to own a car. The more common mode of transportation is by gas-powered golf cart, many of which are jazzed up and personalized in ingenious ways. Visitors can rent golf carts for $30 per hour, but everything in Avalon is really within walking distance. The furthest attraction (1 1/2 miles from downtown) is the Wrigley Memorial and Botanical Gardens, and Catalina Island's golf course.
The return ferry departs at 4:30 p.m., but we were ready to leave by 3:00 p.m.. There really wasn't anything left to do, except enjoying a brew at one of the waterfront restaurants.
I'm sure the real wonder of Catalina Island lies in the more remote places which can't be experienced if you are only there for a day. I would have loved to have had the time to go kayaking or snorkeling, or to explore some of the secluded island coves, which must be the reason why people return year after year.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Families
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
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Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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