Just 30 minutes south of Sacramento and 90 minutes east of San Francisco is the grape growing region of Lodi. Many people are only familiar with this town and area because of an old Creedence Clearwater song penned in the 1970's. However, vintners know that more grapes are grown in this area than in Napa and Sonoma Valleys combined. Farmers have produced many varietals, notably the huge old vine Zinfandels, since the mid 1800's. It has only been in the last decade, however, that maps of wineries and tasting rooms have cropped up for the tourism industry. Producers started becoming successful winemakers and now serious oenophiles have an opportunity to enjoy these great wines in a relaxed, down to earth experience. Driving is different here than in Napa, the wineries are spread out and the valley is wide and not as lush as the valleys to the north. It is also very hot in the summer months, but generally cool in the mornings.

A good way to become familiar with Lodi's wines is at the annual Spring Wine Show. Housed in a large, permanent indoor pavilion, the event is held the last weekend in March or the first weekend in April each year. Expect to meet winemakers, families/owners in a casual, lively atmosphere. Nothing pretentious here! Many of the wineries which don't have tasting rooms are represented at this show. Often, we visit the winery by appointment and sample in a barn or production room. That is how friendly these winemakers are! The show also has live music and a few food items. Tickets are around $30 and include unlimited sampling for three hours. A similar event is held in this venue each fall; the Lodi Grape Festival. Festivals are a good way to get an overview of which wineries to visit personally.

Lodi has a new visitor's center where there are winery maps available, plus tasting room times/info. Also in the center are exhibitions of viticulture and winemaking, a tasting bar with several local offerings and a nice gift shop with over 100 local wines available. Unlike many wineries in California's popular areas, most Lodi wineries charge no tasting fees.

Along the wine trail, there are several places which are outstanding:

1) Michael-David winery/ Phillips Farm

Although this appears to be a road stop dive, it is a lively tasting room, organic grocery and excellent cafe serving food made with fresh organic produce. Breakfasts here are huge and are perfect for those wanting to sip wine all day. There are also many types of gift items and baked goods and many samples to enjoy. The winery is quite famous for it's "7 Deadly Zins" and "6th Sense Syrah". They have a lot of fun here- expect one of the Phillips brothers to greet you personally and prepare to have some laughs.

2)Campus Oaks/Gnekow Family

A long drive to this lovely farm, the tasting room is in a huge barn. Nothing fancy, but the ribbons and awards are a good sign that the emphasis here is making good wine at a decent price.

3)Harmony Wynelands

Spelled in the South African tradition, this is a most memorable stop. Gorgeous gardens surround the huge barn and once inside, it's amazing. A huge Morton theatrical organ once housed in the Castro Theatre sits at the middle of the room. Bob Hartzell, the owner, plays wonderful tunes on it, and the tasting room comes alive with moving panels, percussion instruments and the like. There's also a large sitting area with fireplace and a honky tonk piano. Musicians are welcome to try their hand at any instrument. The Hartzells are wonderful hosts and make delicious, award winning wines. One that stands out yearly is the Alicante Bouschet, a red wine which, unlike others, is made from a red flesh grape. Other reds derive their color from the skins. Hence, this is a deep purple wine which is very complex. They also make delicious sparkling wines here. Do call ahead, the venue is often used for parties and weddings.

4) Berghold

This is an incredibly beautiful winery outside and inside. The owner has a love of wine, music and antiques and they have blended these elements in this stunning place. A concert grand piano on an Oriental rig sits in the middle of the huge room. Antiques are everywhere, and beautiful art is exhibited and sold throughout. There are wooden facades from the Pennsylvania Dutch era circa 1850 which form the walls. True to Lodi tradition, however, are owners who are warm, friendly and love to share their wines with others. The wines are superb and made in a European style. Expect to spend a long time savoring the tastes and atmosphere here.

5) Klinker Brick

If you are lucky, call and ask to come by for a taste of "Old Ghost" old vine Zinfandel. It's limited production and very hard to find, but if you visit, you are allowed to buy a case. It's the big, plummy Lodi Zin at its' finest. The Klinker Brick Zin is also a delicious and affordable wine, consistently good each year.

6) Vino Piazza www.vinopiazza.com

Each winery has a website, however I added this so that everyone could see the video and research each winery. I saved the best for last here. Don and Karen Litchfield bought this abandoned 60 yr old winery which once housed the Lockeford Winery and have have transformed it into a fascinating venue of independant winemakers' tasting rooms, shops, restaurants and a comedy club/theatre area. Outside, there are fountains, gardens and areas to enjoy picnics and live music. The tasting rooms are in the huge rooms which once held wine and still have the stains on the walls. Each are decorated by the owner. One outstanding winery here is Stama/ Kapaniaris Family. The Greek owner had been trained in the old tradition by his father and the wines are delicious and a true bargain. The owner of the Piazza is also a geologist and has a fantastic array of minerals, fossils and even dinosaur bones! We enjoyed the authentic Thai restaurant, Busaba Thai. There are regular shows and comedy acts as well as other events here on weekends. The website has a schedule. You really need to plan an entire day to appreciate this place. Though some rooms are open during the week, most all of them only open on weekends.

There are several moderate hotels in the Lodi area. One upscale B&B, Wine and Roses, is located in the town of Lodi. This is a beautiful property and it also runs the Rosewood Bar and Grill, an excellent choice for dinner. In nearby Lockford, the Lockford Inn B&B offers lovely rooms at a reasonable price.


Recommended: Yes

Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime