Honeymoon at the End of the Rainbow, or, "Too Bad I Already Asked You to Marry Me!"
Written: Aug 23 '05
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Absolutely breathtaking scenery. You'll never finish exploring it all.
Cons: Expensive food, dangerous beaches, no real nightlife, can feel isolated after a while.
The Bottom Line: Kauai can be an expensive trip, but it's also manageable on a budget. The best things - the island's natural wonders - are generally free.
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| divad23's Full Review: Kauai |
Well, I'm a married man now. And not too long ago, my wife and I returned from a very beautiful and relaxing honeymoon - well, strike that, we exhausted ourselves, but emotionally, it was just what we needed - on the island of Kauai. It was my second visit to the westernmost of the major Hawaiian islands, and my wife, despite growing up on nearby Oahu, had actually never been there before. Truth be told, I don't think a lot of the locals in Hawaii do as much island-hopping as the tourists, unless they're rich or something. In any event, this gave us a chance to turn the tables, for me to play tour guide and for her to determine the pace of exploration. Out of all the places I've visited in the world so far, perhaps none has been as much fun to explore - and as beautifully rewarding - as Kauai. It made perfect sense to choose a place with romantic scenery that she could explore at her own pace - given my tendency to want to get to every road's end and extreme point in a new place as soon as possible, I didn't want to honeymoon somewhere that was new to me.
Of course, this review isn't all about me - it's about you, the potential visitor to Kauai, whether it be for purposes of sparking or rekindling romance, a family getaway, or just personal exploration and fulfillment. I think the island has got more than enough to fulfill all of those purposes, but at the same time, it's going to leave different impressions on different types of travelers. To sum it up easily, the more drawn you are to lush green scenery, the more you find yourself taking advantage of every possible ray of daylight when on vacation in order to maximize your discovery of interesting places, and the more willing you are to endure unpredictable road and weather conditions in order to reach your own personal Shangri-La, the more you'll enjoy Kauai. If you and your spouse/kids/travel buddies are all like this, you could easily spend a week on the island and still feel like you've only scratched the surface. But if you're more the party animal type who likes to spend many an evening out on the town, dancing and drinking and all that, then I think it'll be three to four days max before this island starts to feel a little isolated to you. Me, I'm somewhere in between - I love nature and I'm always up for picking a road and seeing where it goes. At the same time, I get a bit antsy if I have to go back to my place of lodging before 9 every night because most of the towns have basically rolled up their sidewalks and gone home a few hours prior, leaving little mini-marts and possibly gas stations as the only beacons of light outside of the glitzy touristy areas. So six days was about right for me. Whatever the case, I do feel rather strongly that there's something on the Garden Isle for everyone - unless, of course, you just hate nature.
Red, then Gray, then Lots of Green
I'll give a little background on the island, on the off-chance that you've never heard of it before and you're one of those people who still thinks Hawaii has bridges linking all of its islands, but no interstate highways, and everyone lives in grass huts. Kauai is the farthest west and north of the "main" Hawaiian islands (i.e. the ones your average tourist can visit without any major hassle), and geologically the oldest of those islands. It sits about 100 miles roughly northwest of Oahu, the result of a long-dormant volcano that has since given way to massive amounts of rainfall feeding lush vegetation. The climate is quite "rainforest-y" all the way around, except for the dry southwestern side, and a central mountain range just tall enough to scrape all the water it can out of the clouds is responsible for this. Kauai is fairly modernized, with paved highways, banks, Internet cafes, resorts, and the usual stuff - for the most part, you'll still feel like you're in America. But it's also very sparse and spread out, largely due to a decree that no building can be more than a few stories high. So, even your major hotels are going to be sprawled out and dwarfed by the green mountains, instead of towering over arriving tourists like the formidable mess that is Waikiki on Oahu. Life in general is more laid-back on Kauai, and in several spots, more rural - for those who have been to Oahu, imagine the northern part of that island's windward side, and you'll start to get the idea.
The Not-So-Long and Winding Road
As with any new tourist destination, the first thing you'll want to do on Kauai is to get yourself oriented. Unless you're up for a really long swim, the only feasible way to get there is via Lihue, where the island's major airport is situated on the southeastern shore facing Oahu. You might be lucky enough to find direct flights here from the West Coast, but most likely, you'll have a short layover in Honolulu on your way in. I'm also willing to wager that you'll be needing a rental car - there is a bus system on Kauai, but it won't get you very far inland and the buses are rather small, almost like airport shuttles. Once all that's settled, you'll be faced with three decisions on your way out of the airport - south toward Nawiliwili Harbor, north toward the Coconut Coast and the more remote North Shore, or straight ahead into Lihue. If you're anything like me, your first mission upon leaving the airport will be to find food, and this proves difficult for many first-time visitors to Kauai - Lihue seems to have ten auto parts stores and gas stations for every restaurant, or at least on the airport-facing end of it. Your best bet is to either head north along Highway 56 into Wailua and Kapa'a, the latter of which is a more tourist-friendly town, or west along Highway 50 toward Waimea. Not too far along the way, you'll reach Kukui Grove Shopping Center and you'll have a fair choice of quick and easy food in that general area.
Alright, tummies full? Then let's soldier on and find out what this island has to offer!
In terms of major cities, you're not going to find much to impress you here. Lihue and Kapa'a are the only major settlements on the east end (and most of the bad afternoon traffic occurs here). The southern shore is home to Poipu, one of the island's nicer beaches with a lot of upscale shopping, dining and lodging to boot. Best not too spend too much time here when hungry or in the mood for souvenir shopping, so backtrack a little bit to Koloa, which is just north of Poipu and, while a popular hangout, not as egregiously overpriced and glitzy. These towns are just a slight detour off of 50 via either Highway 520 or 530. Getting back on the main road (it's hard to tell what the major thoroughfares are on Kauai, since they're all pretty much two-lane highways), driving further west will take you through Lawai, Kalaheo (where you'll see the very last traffic light for the entire trip in that direction), Waimea, and Kekaha, before finally petering out near the desolate western shore. Lots to do out in this area during the day, but it can get especially sleepy at night. I'll get to the scenery and big attractions momentarily - for now I'm just trying to give you a feel for the geography.
Backtracking and heading north along the east side past Kapa'a (and believe me, you won't wont to do all of this in one day), you won't encounter too much but hills and panoramic views of the sea from a little higher up until you get to Kilauea, a teeny outpost on the island's extreme northern point. Venturing farther west from there brings you through some heavily wooded areas into Princeville and Hanalei (that's hah-nah-LAY, and no, Puff the Magic Dragon does not live there), two very scenic towns along the North Shore, which contain the Lion's Share of the island's pricey resorts and stuff. Hanalei seems to be the more interesting of the two, with plenty of funky little shops and eateries - it's pretty much the last outpost before the highway dead ends. From here on in, expect a lot of one-lane bridges and a very leisurely pace - even though you're still on a state highway! - until the road gives way to ocean and sea cliffs just past Haena.
And that's pretty much the extent of the city life on Kauai. There are smaller settlements interspersed throughout, but nothing big enough to really be noteworthy in my mind. Having given you a mental map, let's move on and explore nature!
Do Go Chasing Waterfalls
One of the best natural wonders of Kauai is its waterfalls. Especially during the rainy season (which is most of the year, except for the summer), you're likely to catch a few from the distance, just casually dripping from the cloud-shrouded mountains in the island's center. There are a few, however, that you can practically drive right up to, and ponder from up close. The most famous of these is Wailua Falls, a short drive along Highway 583 just north of Lihue. You might recognize it from its starring role in Fantasy Island, but even if you don't, its gushing spouts over a sheer dropoff are a sight to behold. The highway ends literally right next to it, at eye level with the top of the falls. Due to steep cliffs and loose soil, I wouldn't advise attempting to get to the bottom of these falls; nonetheless, several tourists do it and there's a clear path to the bottom despite signs warning against it. Also in that neighborhood, just up Highway 580 out of Wailua (hang a left at the defunct Coco Palms resort), you can check out the triple stream of Opaekaa Falls, and then hop over to the other side of the highway for a gorgeous view of the Wailua River. It's one of the more scenic roadside lookouts on Kauai - and believe me, there are lots of them to choose from.
If you're up for a short walk, one of the most beautiful waterfalls I've seen on Kauai is Kipu Falls, in the island's southern region. Head south on Kipu Rd. from Highway 50, not too far east from where you would turn off to go down to Koloa and Poipu. The take an immediate right, staying on Kipu Rd., and park just before the bridge where you'll no doubt see other cars parked. A trail will lead you through some very tall weeds (it'll feel like the movie Signs, but without corn) - ignore the multiple turnoffs toward the stream until the very end, only about a quarter of a mile in, if that. Then make your way down the slope and climb over the rocks, and you'll arrive at the top of a relatively small, but gorgeous waterfall where the stream trickles down between the rocks into a massive pool below. On a good day, you might see some daring cliff-divers here, and there's also a rope swing rigged up (if you can figure out how to use the big, knotted rope to catch the smaller one meant for swinging) for some great cowabunga action into the generous depths of these clear waters. There's a ladder there to help you back up if you choose to partake - I wasn't able to find a more sensible way to the bottom, so I had to settle for taking pictures of the falls from either side. I'd say that this is one of the more out-of-the-way spots that most tourists don't know about, that isn't too difficult to actually get to.
Now if you really want to see an impressive waterfall, and don't mind forking over a little cash and getting a bit of a workout, Kayak Wailua (http://www.kayakwailua.com) hosts guided kayaking trips up the Wailua River. Take the kayak-and-hike trip - it's worth the extra cash for the adventurous trip up the river's smaller tributary and the short (but sometimes muddy) hike up to Uluwehi Falls, a stunning 100-foot shower that drops into a somewhat shallow and secluded pool. It's dark enough in there to make taking pictures a pain (and that it's if you dared bringing a decent camera with you on the kayak!), but it's one of the more indelible sights you'll see on Kauai. It's worth every ounce of effort, but just remember when kayaking - to turn left, paddle hard on the right, and vice versa!
The Canyons Echo Sweet Amazing Grace
Kauai's scenery doesn't just end at waterfalls, of course. The island's biggest attraction is probably Waimea Canyon, a stunning gorge on the island's west side that has been compared to the Grand Canyon - only a lot greener (and obviously smaller). You'll want to reserve at least half a day for this trip (likely the whole day if you're unfortunate enough to be staying on the North Shore, since you'll have to drive all the way around the island to get there). Highways 55 and 550 wind up into the hills from the Waimea/Kekaha area, eventually meeting up near the park border, and offering several turnoffs to gorgeous vista points, where the reds and browns and greens get more majestic as you continue up the road. You'll probably get the best pictures from the main Waimea lookout, about halfway up to canyon, but also be sure to stop of Puu Hinahina Lookout, where you can see down into the northern end of the canyon, and then hop across to the other side of the parking lot to get a vista (albeit a faint one on hazier days) of the western shore and the lonely island of Ni'ihau, a privately owned island less than 20 miles away from Kauai that you're generally not allowed to visit unless you're one of the Native Hawaiians who live there, or you're just somebody really, really special.
Continue on up the highway (which becomes less and less deserving of its name as you go - don't worry, the rental cars are kept in good condition for exactly this reason!) into Koke'e State Park, a lush wilderness area that sits on the mountain range in between Waimea Canyon, the nearly impenetrable Alakai Swamp, and the glorious Na'Pali Coast. Stop off at the Koke'e Lodge for a bite to eat (their desserts are especially tasty, though somewhat pricey), and check out the museum for a little history of the area and some tidbits about its flora and fauna, and then make your way to the Kalalau Lookout, where the road officially ends (the state has closed it off at this point) and you can get a decent view down into Kalalau Valley, a veritable utopia of cliffs virtually carpeted with plant life. The Na'Pali Coast (Kauai's inaccessible northwestern shore) hosts a number of these valleys, but the Kalalau is by far the largest and most scenic (and easiest to actually get a good view of for most tourists). If you're up for a little walking, cut back over to the road, and walk beyond the gate for a mile or so (it's all paved) until you reach Puu O Kila lookout, which offers an even more breathtaking view of the valley, as well as a look eastward into the Alakai Swamp (it mostly just looks like a lot of trees and bushes covering a long slope) toward Mt. Waialeale, known as "the wettest spot on Earth" due to the egregious amounts of rainfall that this often invisible spot receives and distributes to the surrounding slopes and valleys. Trust me, on most days, you won't get a glimpse of this peak from anywhere on the island due to the almost constant cloud cover, and even when you do, it's not that impressive to look at. Just think about what the climate must be like there, and the beauty that it's blessed the rest of Kauai with, and be glad you're not actually there. I love this particular lookout spot, because it just feels like you're at the top of your own little wilderness. The thought first occurred to me here that came to mind several more times during the course of the honeymoon - "Too bad I already asked you to marry me." Because it just would have been the perfect spot for such a proposition.
Did I mention clouds? They can get to be a bit of a nuisance, obscuring otherwise great views, later in the day. Your best bet is to start early if you want to see the Kalalau and surrounding scenery, and to head back for views of Waimea Canyon. Get the views in the morning, and do any hiking in the region a little later on to take advantage of the cloud cover (with the caution that you might have some rain and mud to contend with). There are tons of hikes in the Waimea/Koke'e area, and sadly, I haven't been on any of them yet, but there are a few leading to the floor of the canyon, or further along the top ridges of the Na'Pali Coast, that I'd love to try if I ever return to Kauai with a group of hearty, outdoorsy types like the ones I often go hiking with here in California.
Jungle Fever
And did I mention hiking? Thankfully, there's a lot of that to be done all throughout Kauai, not just in the Waimea Canyon area, and I've been on a few trails that have provided some generous views that one just can't see from the road. One of the more interesting hikes starts at the end of Highway 580, up past Opaekaa Falls and the junction with 581. Just before the road crosses a stream (literally - the water spills right over the road) near the entrance to Keahua Arboretum, you'll find a sign marking the beginning of the Kuilau Ridge Trail. What starts off as a muddy dirt road through a forest that smells of guava (depends on the time of year, I guess) comes out about a mile later at a viewpoint where you can look out at some of the loveliest valleys on eastern Kauai. The trail doesn't end there at the picnic benches, though - swing right and you'll find that it drops down behind the ridge for an Alice-in-Wonderland like stroll along some of the greenest and lushest plants you've ever seen. The trail ends at a bridge not long after that, and another trail starts up which turns out to be a mire of mud and misery, eventually leading down to another parking area at the other end. Best to turn around at the bridge unless you're just really hardcore about your hiking. I've heard that there's an even muddier hike near here that goes all the way to Princeville, if that sort of thing floats your boat.
You can, of course, check out the Arboretum while you're up that way - the area by the stream is too scenic, but don't expect to see too much beyond that. Nice for a very short walk, I guess.
Since I'm not much for being out on the water, and I haven't yet mustered up the courage to take a helicopter tour, for my money, the best way to see Kauai's Na'Pali coast from the bottom end is to drive all the way out to Ke'e Beach on the North Shore and set out on the Kalalau Trail. Be prepared for some unforgiving steep and narrow sections, and a good amount of mud here and there - this one isn't for the faint of heart, but it's also not an all-day affair if you just want to get to the first viewpoint, so there's no need to rush! Just watch your feet, let the rocks and roots help you out, and less than a mile up, you'll be rewarded with dual vistas of Ke'e Beach far below you on one side, and the many ridges of the Na'Pali coast awaiting you on the other side. Most hikers will take this trail for the first two miles until it descends to Hanakapi'ai Beach, which is no doubt less crowded than Ke'e on any day by far. Personally, we turned around once we could tell we were on the descent, because it was midday and we were getting hungry. The views were worth the struggle, though. Hardy hikers who have obtained permits can make a few days of it by continuing on for the next nine miles, ending up at the bottom of Kalalau Valley. A few spur trails along the way lead inland to waterfalls, but I can't speak to how well-maintained they are.
One important tip - any trips to this end of the North Shore are best done as early in the morning as possible. Avoiding the cruel midday sun is key on the Kalalau trail, and it'll be facing you for most of the afternoon as well since the ocean is west of you. More importantly, though, parking is scarce at Ke'e Beach, and tourists have habits of making space where there shouldn't be any among the many trees that shade the lot. Either you won't be able to get a space, or you'll have to play musical chairs with a few other cars for ten or twenty minutes to get into a space. This just isn't a whole lot of fun, so show up before there are four digits on the clock!
Those who are up for a shorter hike would be well advised to check out either of the trails that lead up Sleeping Giant north of Kapa'a. You'll know this ridge when you see it - it looks like a huge person sleeping with his chin up and his arms folded. (Either that, or really pointy breasts.) I haven't done this one personally, but I hope to if I ever go back, because I've heard that it provides a good overview of that side of the island, and on a really clear day, you might even be able to see all the way back to Oahu.
It Ain't Called "The Garden Isle" for Nothing
For those who'd like to get outdoors and do some walking, but who aren't up for the unpredictable conditions of your average Kauai trail, visiting a botanical garden would be a great alternative. My wife and I love botanical gardens, and we actually met a woman at a video store who worked at the National Tropical Botanical Gardens (http://www.ntbg.org) on the South Shore, so we decided to give that a try. It's located just west of Poipu, on Lawai Drive opposite the much-talked-about, but not-terribly-impressive Spouting Horn. Take a quick walk around the Visitor's Center Gardens to get a modest introduction to what this place has to offer, then step inside and purchase yourself a seat on the tram to either the McBride Gardens ($15 per person) or the Allerton Gardens ($30 per person). The Allerton Garden tour, offered on a more limited basis, Is likely the more majestic of the two, since the gardens are situated in a river valley opening out onto the beach, and scenes from Jurassic Park were filmed there. (Michael Crichton apparently liked it so much that he got married there later on.) There's also a fancy estate that you can tour there. We chose the McBride Garden tour, further inland, which had a host of exotic plants from various tropical locales, including cacao, starfruit, monkey pod trees, and something that I think was named after a beefsteak. It also has a lovely stream, a bamboo bridge, and plenty of grassy areas to wander about in. The tram will take visitors down a bumpy dirt road to either garden, and basically drop you off and let you wander about until the last ride departs from the gardens. It's a nice way to spend part of an afternoon.
There's also Limahuli Garden, back on the North Shore near the bitter end of Highway 56, and Na 'Aina Kai Botanical Garden (http://www.naainakai.com), in the Kilauea area, if you can't get enough of this sort of thing. I haven't checked those out yet, but they're potential future destinations.
Son of a Beach
Of course, a visit to Hawaii would feel incomplete if you didn't spend some time bumming around on the beach. The tricky thing about Kauai is that its northern and western shores, and sometimes its eastern shore, aren't the most suitable for swimming (with nasty currents even in the summer months that have claimed many a hapless swimmer). This drives a lot of tourists back to Poipu Beach, which is crowded but quite accessible, and I've heard it's a good place for snorkeling. We were a little more adventurous, and we found ourselves traveling along an old cane haul road just east of Poipu, which led us to Mahalepu Beach. I'm not sure what the deal is with this beach, since it's got a "Private Property" sign on the road in, but no gate and nobody manning the guard tower (or at least, not on the day we went). It's a nice spot once you make it there, though, with small sea cliffs separating you from busy Poipu to the east, and relatively calm surf. Just watch out for the rocks!
Along the less swimmable shores, Wailua Beach, isn't too bad of a place to sit and ponder - just pull off of Highway 56 immediately after the double bridge that spans the Wailua River. The North Shore has some very scenic places like Hanalei Bay and even a fabled nude beach whose name eludes me (though I've heard people rarely actually go nude, and it's not really even allowed, but nobody enforces that, either. No, I haven't been there to confirm this.) I've already mentioned the remote Ke'e Beach, and if you're up for a long journey to the far western end of Highway 50 and beyond, you can pay a visit to the dry, powdery Polihale Beach, which will require a good three-to-five-mile drive along a bumpy dirt road guaranteed to leave you feeling like you're in the dead center of absolutely nowhere. (Seriously, the one time I made it out there, I lost the radio station I had been listening to, and hitting "Seek" resulted in a full trip all the way around the dial with not even a faint signal to be found.) From here, you can get about as close as you ever will to Ni'ihau and its tiny crescent-like neighbor Lehua, and you can walk north along the sand (which might prove a bit difficult) to where it ends at the southern end of the Na'Pali Coast. I've been told that this is a haunting place to watch a sunset, but I've also been warned that crime happens out here from time to time. Best to do this with a bigger group of people, especially if you're up for staying out until it's dark.
How Do I Get There from Here?
Now let's see, what are the other miscellaneous places you can go... oh yeah, I almost forgot about Hanapepe! It's kind of off the highway on the way out to the west side, though a sign will helpfully point you to "Hawaii's Biggest Little Town". It's a funky little place with lots of little art shops along the main road, as well as a few places to browse books, get coffee (Kauai-grown, of course, and if you're really into coffee there's a plantation you can visit not far from there), try some taro chips, and take a slightly nerve-wracking walk across a scenic river on the Hanapepe Swinging Bridge. There's not much reward for getting across it, but it's just one of those things you've gotta try.
If you've got some extra time on one of your North Shore excursions, try heading north (towards the ocean) at the Shell station in Kilauea, to reach the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge. This former site of a working lighthouse is now a haven for all manner of sea birds. $3 a person lets you into the refuge, and there isn't too far to walk, but if you love birds, you could probably sit there for an hour or two just watching them all. You might even get an up close and personal glimpse of a few nene geese, the Hawaii state bird which has sadly become endangered due to a bit of a mongoose problem on the other islands.
Of course, the thing about Kauai that gives it such an air of mystique is the numerous places you can't go. Remember Waialeale, and what a miserable place I said it would probably be? Well, even if you don't heed my warning, you're not gonna be able to experience it for yourself. No roads even come close to scaling it, and any trails that make it far enough island to really approach it are bound to be a difficult experience. The same is true for nearby Kawaikini, which actually outdoes Waialeale as the tallest mountain on the island, but the difference is fairly small and Waialeale still gets the lion's share of attention and reverence. Some trails will lead you into the Alakai Swamp, but I wouldn't recommend venturing too far without some serious gear and possibly a guide. Also, as I've already established, most of the Na'Pali Coast is impenetrable, and you can't reach the North Shore from the West Shore, so plan your driving carefully. Best to take a helicopter tour if you want to see any of this stuff without a lot of bushwhacking and mud slogging. And Ni'ihau - well, if you really want to fork over a ton of money, there are limited hunting tours to the Forbidden Island, but otherwise, you're gonna have to settle for admiring it from the West Shore. Look in the little craft shops in the Waimea and Lawai areas - you can buy a Ni'ihau Shell Lei if you're really inclined to bring back something from the island.
If I Had a Million Dollars, I'd Buy You Souvenirs and Dinner
Ah yes, shopping. That reminds me of a few tourist traps I should mention. I mentioned Poipu Shopping Village earlier - it's crowded, hella expensive, and basically an extremely condensed version of Waikiki, so if you really have money burning a hole in your pocket, then have at it. The same goes for a lot of the shops in the Nawiliwili Harbor area. The Coconut Marketplace in Kapa'a is a little more reasonable, I think, and Koloa is a nice little town to explore (particularly the Island Soap & Candle Company). Hanalei and Princeville, while quaint, are going to cater to richer tourists what with the expensive resorts in the area, so be advised when you're up there as well. As you get further from civilization, you're more likely to find little crafty shops that I think are more interesting than the usual clothing and jewelry outlets that ensnare most tourists. My wife and I even found a craft fair going on in Waimea one Saturday, so you just never know. Roadside stands in various locations will sell you lots of different things, so keep an eye out and be willing to take a chance and pull off the road. It's just more fun that way.
And of course, for you basic needs, Lihue has a Wal-Mart, and the Kukui Grove Shopping Center has stores like Border's, Long's Drugs, K-Mart, etc. that you'll recognize from the mainland - as well as the only Starbucks I could see anywhere on the island!
If you're like me, all that driving around and shopping is probably going to make you hungry, so I'll go over a few of the better eateries I've discovered on the island:
Oki's Diner: Right smack dab in the middle of Lihue; it doesn't look like an impressive area of town, but they've got some great local Hawaiian food here, including some acclaimed macadamia nut pancakes. Strangely, local food is a bit harder to find on this island, in contrast with the ubiquitous plate lunch places and Zippy's on Oahu, so enjoy it wherever you do come across it.
Pizzetta: This Italian place in Koloa serves a pretty good calzone. Lots of pizza and pasta selections - somewhat noisy and cramped, but not as outrageously priced as a lot of places on the island.
Kalaheo Steakhouse: This is apparently one of those places where locals come for a really nice meal. If you're into steak or seafood, this will probably fit your bill quite nicely, but if you're up for anything else, be advised that they don't have a huge menu. Almost everything is over $20, too, so save this for a really nice date. It's small and homey, but pleasant.
Deli & Bread: Buried in the back of Kukui Grove Shopping Center by Macy's, this unoriginally-named place has some pretty solid sandwiches and soups for reasonable prices. This was our first stop for lunch, and if you're headed out on Highway 50 from the airport, it might be yours, too. (Hey, it beats being boring and going to Taco Bell and Burger King.)
Puka Dog: This might be the saving grace of Poipu Village. $5 or so will get you an all-beef hot dog wrapped in a "puka shell" bun, which delectable garlic butter and your choice of tropical fruit relish. They've got mango, banana, star fruit, coconut... yeah, it sounds weird, but boy, is it good!
Tropical Burgers & More: Located in the Coconut Marketplace, this restaurant serves exactly what it says it does, with huge variety and some interesting originals like rum guava barbeque sauce.
Lappert's: If you're up for some really tasty dessert and don't mind spending a few extra bucks, give this premium ice cream company a try. It puts 31 Flavors to shame, and I like the local twists on a lot of the selection. They also sell various Hawaii-grown coffees and other good stuff. They're located in Koloa, and I recall seeing them in a few other spots as well.
As I'm sure you've gathered, food is kind of expensive on Kauai, which is one major drawback to spending a lot of time there - you're gonna get hungry, and you're going to find it difficult to maintain good judgment about how much you want to spend on each meal. My advice is to stock up on things you can grab & go for breakfast at a local supermarket or drug store, find hole-in-the-wall places with a very informal atmosphere for a relatively cheap lunch, and then go all-out on dinner. You'll be happier if you're not dropping $20 to $25 per person on every single meal.
Now I Lei Me Down to Sleep
Speaking of saving money on Kauai, I'll admit that inexpensive places to stay aren't exactly abundant over there. It's far from everything and that jacks up the cost of life in general. However, I've found the South Shore to be particularly good for inns and Bed & Breakfasts just hidden away on the side roads. Take a look around, and you might be able to get a cozy room for under $100 a night (double occupancy). Particularly if you don't insist on staying right on the beach, you might find a special place that nobody knows about, and likely one where the people running it are more friendly and willing to "talk story" and give you more ideas than I ever could on what to see and do there. You want to be near Lihue, because it's better to have easy access to both ends of the island, but you don't necessarily need to be in Lihue, so keep that in mind when poking around on the Internet for out-of-the-way places to stay. If you end up in Hanalei or Waimea or something like that, you'll have to plan your excursions to the other end much more carefully.
Gratuitous Miscellany
As for other general advice... watch your driving. I know, the locals never do, but speed limits are a morphing concept up there, dropping from 50 to 35 to 25 and going back up again on very short notice. Maybe I was just paranoid because I misplaced my Driver's License during the honeymoon, but it seemed like at least once a day, a cop would pop out onto the highway behind me and I would get this sickening feeling because I had no clue what the speed limit was. When in doubt, assume 35, and drop it to 25 if you're in any sort of a town area.
You won't see too much in terms of dangerous wildlife on Kauai. Certainly nothing poisonous (except for maybe some imported plants in the botanical gardens), and nothing big enough to threaten you. You'll mostly see chickens - oh boy, will you see chickens! If you're fortunate enough to find some other friendly birds that are a little less common, just let them do their thing, snap a few pictures, and go on about your day.
Weather is unpredictable on Kauai, so if you plan to be off on a long hike, particularly in a shady, forested area, you might want to bring a light poncho or some other means of covering up if it starts to get really rainy. Rain can also turn trail conditions from stable into treacherous, so think before you cut corners or climb up to some place that would be impossible to get down from if it suddenly got more slippery. Best to go out with another person.
Bring plenty of CD's for your rental car. (Most cars in this day and age will have CD players.) You'll be doing a lot of driving back and forth along the same roads, and boredom leading to drowsiness at the wheel is especially dangerous with all the curvy roads. Seriously, I think we went through 20 CD's, if not more, during our 6 days there. You won't get good radio signals everywhere, so come prepared, unless you really like silence.
If you must be somewhere by a certain time either the day you arrive on Kauai or the day you leave (like, say, a connecting flight from Honolulu back to the mainland or another island), plan to arrive at Lihue Airport earlier in the day than you think you'd need to. That airport seems to me to be notorious for delays - both times I've flown out, I've taken off after I was supposed to have landed in Honolulu. Best not to have to stress out and try to juggle flights or miss planned events. (Actually, don't plan any scheduled events on your first day at all - even better.)
Most of all, just relax and take it easy! I found out the hard way on my first trip that getting everywhere I possibly could at breakneck speed didn't allow me to really get into the groove of the Garden Isle. Take it slow; be willing to pull off at interesting lookouts, try out funky little stores, and take pictures of your own interesting little discoveries. You'll never manage to see all of the big, wonderful things in one trip, so pick out the things you really want to do, plan one or two at most per day, and just enjoy the easy pace of island life in between. I took on this attitude on my second trip, and it helped me to really fall in love with a place that I only really developed a superficial crush on the first time around.
And that's about it. I hope my ramblings have encouraged you to check out this unique tropical paradise. Take tons of pictures, and don't forget to send me a cheesy postcard, 'K?
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Mar - May
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divad23
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Member: David Martin
Location: Pasadena, CA
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Just add an implicit "in my humble opinion" to every sentence I write.
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