Evangeline Parish, Real Cajun Country
Written: May 17 '00 (Updated Jan 23 '02)
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Pros: authentic cajun adventure, few tourists
Cons: none at all
The Bottom Line: A visit to "Vangie" will let you see a fascinating part of Louisiana that few tourists get to experience
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| Howard_Creech's Full Review: Cajun Country |
Drive north from Lafayette on Interstate 49 and take the Ville Platte (Flat Town) exit. You are on your way to one of the most authentic and least visited cajun areas in Louisiana. Ville Platte is an excellent base for visiting all the attractions in Evangelline Parish, named for the heroine of Longfellows epic poem, and the northernmost area of Cajun Country.
Ville Platte is home to Floyd's Record Shop, the oldest record store in Louisiana (opened in 1956) and the most incredible selection of Louisiana music anywhere. Cajun, Zydecco, "Swamp Pop", Rock'n'Roll, and country music are all to be found here. No Louisiana musical artist is so obscure that his/her stuff isn't carried by Floyd's.
Just down the street from Floyd's is the "Pig Stand" a quirky little restaurant, in business since the late forties, serving barbecue, Prairie Cajun Dishes, and burgers that must be tasted to be believed. The "Pig Stand" is always crowded in the morning with locals eating breakfast, drinking coffee, and discussing the days plans in French. The restaurant (and Ville Platte) figured prominently in one of Robert Crais' recent Elvis Cole ("VooDoo River") mysteries.
The Jungle Club (La Hwy 167) is another local restaurant well worth a stop, famous for boiled crawfish, you can order mild, hot, super hot, or extra super hot, but when cajuns say "extra super hot" they ain't kidding
While in the Ville Platte area be sure to tune your radio to KVPI, which broadcasts cajun, zydecco, and swamp pop, plus the local news (and everything else) in Cajun French. If you want to try one of the old time Louisiana "crossroads" dancehalls, drop by Snooks Bar & Dancehall for first rate swamp pop and country music. The locals are friendly, and everyone is welcome.
Just a few miles from Ville Platte is Mamou, claimed as the "Home of Cajun Music", every Saturday morning from 8:00am until about 2:00pm Fred's Lounge is packed for the Cajun Hoedown, a program of live music from local bands that is broadcast live on KVPI. It is a rowdy party, with lots of early morning drinking, loud music, and dancing. Don't worry about finding Fred's, just look for the spillout from the lounge, and all the cars and pick-up trucks parked out front. A note of caution, "if you ain't inside by 8:00am, you'll have listen from the sidewalk". Mamou is a very small town, home to one of the best "country" Mardi Gras runs, and several interesting Mom and Pop restaurants. If you enjoy Cajun Music see my "Rendevous des Cajuns" review for information about nearby Eunice and its attractions.
For the nature lovers Evangelline Parish has the Louisiana State Aboretum, over 300 acres of native Louisiana plants, a 2.5 mile walking trail, and a small swamp. The aboretum closes at sunset, so do be careful, my wife and I mis-timed one of our visits and spent over an hour trying to find our way out of the place in near pitch blackness. Chicot State Park is a 6400 acre park with a lake, hiking trails, and some of the best bird watching in central Louisiana. The Crooked Creek Recreation Area is another nearby natural area well worth a visit.
If you find yourself in Lafayette with a day or two to kill, and you want to see something that most of the tourists miss, then head north on Interstate 49 and visit Evangelline Parish. It's a lot more interesting and authentic than Vermillionville or the Cajun Country Store, the food at the Pig Stand is cheaper and tastes better than anyplace in Lafayette, and if you stop by Floyd's you just might find that Cajun or Zydecco CD that you couldn't find anywhere else. Fred's Lounge must be experienced to be believed.
While you are in the neighborhood you may want to visit Lea's Lunchroom in Lecomte. This funky little "down home" diner is a Louisiana political icon, having fed every Governor (except one) since the twenties. Lea's is home to the best home made pies, and country cooking between New Orleans and Shreveport. Just follow Interstate 49 north from Ville Platte (about fifty miles, the pies alone are worth the trip) to the Forest Hill/Lecomte exit, Lea's is at the intersection of La. Hwy 112 and U. S. Hwy 71.
If you enjoyed reading this Louisiana travel review, please read my other Louisiana travel reviews:
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Just “cut’n’paste” the URL into your browser’s address window
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
Howard_Creech
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Member: Howard Creech
Location: Louisville, KY
Reviews written: 333
Trusted by: 1274 members
About Me:
Photographer/Writer fascinated by Movies, Music, Books, American Diner Food, History, "Popular Culture", and Travel.
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